LET'S TALK CLOGS...AGAIN!!!

Although I have addressed clogs in several forms over past blogs, they remain a hot topic on the discussion forums and although I find it hard to believe that EVERYONE in America, for that matter the WORLD, have not been reading my blogs I’m going to address the types and to a certain extent the symptoms of common household clogs again, today. Before I begin you should always keep on hand a plunger, a simple 25’ auger, some liquid drain cleaner and the phone number of a good plumber. Each of these will be cited, as needed, in the examples below.
1. The most common clog that shows up in most households is the toilet. What causes it? Usually inadequate outflow of the drain because of something stuck in the drain or the toilet itself. This something can be an extraordinary bowel movement, too much toilet paper, a kid’s toy or any one of the many things that children try to flush including the family hamster, or can be symptomatic of not enough water to cause the flush to occur. The latter occurring more and more today with the new “green” low cubic feet per minute (CFM) water saving toilets. I see more complaints about these toilets than most anything else and it boils down to brand name. Some brands simply do not work effectively on low CFM regardless of their claims. Consistently TOTO, American standard and Kohler seem to have that market sewn up with toilets that work best. If it is just a water problem a second flush, while defeating the purpose of low flush, will usually solve the problem. If it is a real clog, first try the old standby plunger, every house should have one. DO not waste your money on the high tech complicated and expensive designs or the automated power air push type. These rarely will do the job as well as the simple inexpensive standard plunger that you’ve seen all of your life. Just keep it in a nearby closet because they are not very decorative. If the plunger doesn’t work, and you will know that pretty quickly, then it’s time for the “snake”. The snake is an auger designed to cut through stubborn clogs. These stubborn clogs can be roots growing through your drain line downstream from the toilet and this type of clog can show up in other fixtures in the house.
2. As mentioned above, the main line drain clog is the more difficult and potentially more expensive. This clog usually causes the entire house to back up not just the toilet. The backup from this clog will appear from the lowest point in your plumbing i.e. a basement drain, a sump hole, the tub or shower in the basement and if you have no basement the tub on the first level. This is an unpleasant clog and can cause more unhealthy damage to parts of your home because if it gets out of control it can contaminate your home with harmful effluent and water. If this clog doesn’t clear easy with your own small household auger you will need to call a plumber immediately to affect a repair. These clogs can occur in either a private septic system or a public sewer line.
3. On the subject of the septic system, you can have a back up into your home that resembles a clog because your septic tank is full, the drain field is clogged with roots or if you live in an area plagued with lots of rain your drain field can lose its percolation ability therefore your tank can not drain as it was designed to do. Septic systems are not a DIY project. You will need to contact a septic tank specialty company immediately.
4. Likewise a public sewer system can be compromised by weather, especially if storm drains empty into the local sewer system, and can cause temporary backups into your home. If this is the case your neighbors should be affected also but it will usually occur in the house at the lowest point in the sewer system loop. Hopefully that is not you. In most cases the public utility may be liable for damages but you will still have to suffer through the unpleasant experience.
5. To digress a bit another simple and common household clog happens in the sinks. This is usually caused by a buildup of hair in a bathroom sink, grease and food products in a kitchen sink or the dregs of food materials and grease from a dishwasher. These clogs are the ones that respond most easily with the liquid drain cleaners such as “Liquid Plumber”. You should read and abide by the use instructions on these products because they contain caustic harmful chemicals which can create burns and eye damage. You should also be very careful in trying to plunge or auger a drain after using a liquid drain cleaner because residual product can splash back on you.
I’m sure that there are plethora of other types of clogs and old fashioned remedies, but hopefully this will give you a start on how to diagnose your problem and to help you know how to fix it or get it fixed. I would welcome your additions to the list and personal stories of particularly difficult or even funny clogs in your life. I will try to use as many as possible. Just click on comments and write away. Thanks

MY BOWL RUNNETH OVER...NOW WHAT DO I DO?

A discussion group forum posting over the weekend reminded me of a problem that my ex-wife and I had many years ago. Well we had a lot of problems that why she is my ”EX” but this blog is not about marital advice because on that I’m no expert, just ask her! The problem I am talking about was what happens when your toilet bowl over flows due to a clog or mechanical malfunction. I have blogged before about how to unclog a toilet bowl as well as what some of the causes of clogs and mechanical failure might be and how to repair them but what do you do about the mess created? This particular thread was an apartment dweller dealing with the maintenance department. Their toilet had over flowed while they were out and had run for some 2+ hours so not only did they have water and effluent damage to their carpet but of course it had seeped through to the neighbor below. The maintenance folks had come in with wet vacs and fans and had soaked up the water and dried the carpets but was that enough? Her concern was mold and mildew under the carpet and she was certain that she could still smell something but couldn’t identify its origin. Well lets start from the beginning, The bowl over flows and probably some amount of waste material spilled out followed by lots of clear water, if you’re lucky and the clog was localized to the toilet, i.e. the toilet clogged when you flush it and what was in it that you were trying to flush doesn’t go down and for some reason the toilet doesn’t stop trying to refill. If you were to have a mainline clog the sewage can back up and eminate from the lowest point in your plumbing system then spill out and over your house. In this latter example your home is then badly contaminated with raw sewage and you have a major problem. This is the type of situation my wife and I experienced. We were living in a basement apartment while building a new home and the building main drain clogged backing up everything from the apartments above us into our apartment. Because we had only planned to stay there a brief amount of time we had most of our belongings packed in cardboard boxes which also soaked up the sewage and ruined many things in them. Needless to say simply drying the carpet wasn’t sufficient to clean up the mess although the apartment management company seemed to think it was which resulted in a major battle between us. Fortunately for the forum writer her situation wasn’t that bad but many things still could have been overlooked which could still cause a long term problem. Because the over flow could have caused some sewage, even if it were small amount heavily diluted with clean water, simply drying the carpet wasn’t enough, the carpet needed to be cleaned thoroughly utilizing a “steam” type cleaning service. Secondly when you have that much water in your home anything touching the floor soaks up water. Most people fail notice that their draperies that touch the floor, the bed spreads, upholstered furniture, throw rugs and many other things thorough out the house are capable of wicking up the contaminated water and will all have to be cleaned thoroughly. Any of these things missed in the cleaning operation can result in mold and or a residual smell. People also forget about the carpet in closets as well as clothes that may be on the floor. Mildew can be a long term problem also and requires 3 things to exist…moisture, still air and darkness (think basement). Any carpeted areas not thoroughly cleaned and dried can result in ling term mildew growth causing damage and that familiar mildew musty smell.
The bottom line is that if you have a serious flood, caused by a plumbing problem, make sure you do more than just simply dry the water up. Clean everything that the water has come in contact with.

OH!! SWEET MYSTERY OF LIFE AT LAST I'VE FOUND YOU!

As I wrote last Friday, I had ordered myself a TOTO SW844 “Washlet”,from the good folks at National Builder Supply, and was anxiously awaiting its arrival. Well the fated day came on Tuesday and my friend, Mike, came over Wednesday to install it.
I have written about Washlets several times but had never experienced one nor really had much of an idea about the total experience from box to butt so to speak. But now having had the opportunity to test drive this marvelous device, several times, I can report, in detail, about how it installed, how it works and how great it is.
THE RECEIPT AND INSTALLATION
It came well packed, no chance of damage and because it is an international product both in manufacture and distribution it had installation and operating instructions in several languages. Enough languages that the first words out of Mike’s mouth had something to do with ”how the hell do I install this thing with instructions in every language but English?” It’s not that there were no instructions in English but that I had removed them and taken them into the den to read them. Being the typical guy who is famous (as I’ve have mentioned before) for a great deal of drama when it comes to DIY projects I really didn’t expect him to read the instructions anyway. Well after a few choice well placed words to me about the destiny of my soul for having hidden his directions, he ventured forth to tutor himself. On the surface I would admit that it appeared to be a daunting task and he complained that his wife should just get comfortable because this one was going to take all afternoon. Needless to say other than needing a short extension cord to connect it to electricity the job was done easily and within 30 minutes including a very detailed testing procedure sans butt. All operations were a “GO” for lift off and I was ready for my first experience.
I will spare you the details of bodily functions but suffice it to say I had stored up enough bodily elements to give it a great test. To start with let me explain some of the Washlet’s functions.
1. It warms the seat to a temperature of your desire and has an energy savings function on all it’s electrical functions allowing for timed or complete shut off of all these options.
2. It warms the washing water to your desired temperature and has a hot water tank reservoir which keeps a supply on hand so there is no warm up factor or blast of sobering cold water to your more delicate body areas. This too can be turned off or set on a schedule. Because my body doesn’t work on a schedule I turned this function off opting to go “commando” with cold water after experiencing the warm water cycle.
3. The wash functions consists of wands that appear from, seemingly, no where that then oscillates in a circular motion providing cleansing for both front and rear areas. NOW THAT IS A REAL EXPERIENCE!!
4. Once you have been thoroughly washed a touch of another button provides warm air to dry you thoroughly. Both the wash and dry functions are controlled by a remote control box which starts and stops everything at your demand with a touch of a button with no surprises as to when the water or air will come on or go off. The remote control is an option that came on the model that I bought. The base model has the same controls that are just mounted on the device itself down the side and would have been a tight fit for my bathroom and for some folks probably difficult to reach and read which button you are pushing.
5. Lastly when all is done and you stand up the device closes itself softly so there are no surprises for anyone sitting down on it without looking first. Fortunately for me I have no female sharing my life or my bathroom other than Mike’s wife of 45 years, Dianne, who wisely ALWAYS uses the guest bathroom when she visits.
In summation I have to say I could not be more pleased. The installation was quick and basically painless (Mike didn’t hurt himself this time), the use is a pleasant and needed experience for me at this stage of my life and disability and I am of record as saying that the only improvement that I believe TOTO could make on the Washlet was to add an MP3 player, a DVD/CD player and offer an optional flat panel TV to go on the wall in front of you so that life would be complete and I wouldn’t have to leave the bathroom at all except an for occasional snack. HMMMM… maybe a microwave and small refrigerator to go with it also? The list goes on…ARE Y’ALL LISTENING TOTO??

WHY HAVE A HOME INSPECTION?

With the state of today’s economy and the vast number of foreclosures affecting the marketplace, now can be the time to step out in faith and make your dreams of home ownership a reality. The advantage, today, is the tremendous values that can be had in houses these days. I saw a news article recently showing homes in an area of Florida where homes that had sold, 3 years ago, for in excess of $300,000 were now on the market for $75,000. A great buy, maybe, but possibly a “money pit”. Homes in foreclosure can be perfect but in all likelihood will have some problems relative to the financial distress of the previous owner. Routine maintenance could have been missed, repairs of major systems avoided and sometimes these homes have been abused and violated while left empty and awaiting sale. Home inspections have always been a good idea whether good times or bad. When buying a home from an existing owner or a financial institution, the home inspection becomes a useful tool to make yourself aware of any repairs the home may need and can be a useful tool to negotiate the final price with an offset for making the necessary repairs shown in the inspection. I give you a prime scenario from my own experience. I lived in Los Angeles in the 1980’s and was an active real estate investor. I found a beautiful home in the Hollywood Hills, great view of L.A., swimming pool and a mid century modern design that I loved. I negotiated what I thought to be a great price and set off to close escrow. My only contingency was the building inspection. I retained a licensed bonded inspection company and met the inspector at the house. He immediately wanted to go into the attic, and on return approached the seller and said that he wanted to pull up the carpet in the living room. The seller was freaked out and I was in a quandary because he hadn’t looked at the heating, plumbing, electrical or really anything else. When the seller said no to pulling up the carpet the inspector turned to me and said the inspection was over and advised that I walk away from the deal. The seller capitulated to pulling the carpet up and when done we found that the entire concrete slab was cracked clean into and gapped open from what was diagnosed as previous undiscovered earthquake damage from at least four years prior. How did the inspector know the crack was there by visiting the attic? When he had driven up to the house he had noticed that the main roof line was sagging and once in the attic discovered the main roof beam was cracked and separated. This could have only happen in his opinion if the foundation was also cracked. In short the house was then deemed to be a total loss and I was out of the deal. The house was eventually bulldozed and the property sold for land value only. The moral of the story always get a building inspection prior to closing any real estate transaction. This becomes even more Important when buying a property that is in distress. Undisclosed problems can make a great buy an albatross. You can not and should not enter into a real estate transaction without being fully informed as to the condition of the property. No reliable real estate agent , bank or seller will decline this contingency unless they are attempting to hide something. Even if the inspection is done with no recourse as to price adjustment you will at least be aware of the full cost of what it will take to own the house. As always CAVEAT EMPTOR ( BUYER BEWARE).

How to find something dropped in your sink

Have you ever dropped something of value down the sink? Your wedding ring? A contact lens? A part of something you are working on or cleaning in the sink? Well all Is not lost. Because of the “P” trap configuration of most sinks the item may not be lost at all but instead is probably caught in the trap just below the drain. The “P” trap is a function of plumbing which traps a water barrier in the drain as to prevent sewer gases from flowing back into the house. It actually isn’t a “P” at all but rather a “U” in your sink drain usually directly below the sink. Here is a simple step by step method to look for your lost valuable.
1. Turn the water off immediately both at the sink and then find the shut off valve and turn it off also, to avoid the possibility of washing your lost item on down the drain. Because most heavier items, such as jewelry, tend to drop to the bottom even if some water has run after it you may still be in luck and find it in the trap. I have read that items have been found years later that never washed on through.
2. Look below the sink and locate the “U” that I mentioned above.
3. Place a bucket under the trap because it is filled with dirty water and when you disassemble it the water will go everywhere if you don’t catch it and the trap in the bucket plus this will eliminate the possibility of the item getting lost under the sink once you open the trap.
4. The “P” trap is attached with large hex shaped nuts that only need to be hand tight. In some cases of older corroded fittings a pair of channel lock pliers may be needed to loosen these nuts. Loosen the nuts on each end and drop the whole assembly into your bucket.
5. Now the dirty work. You may want to wear protective gloves. Fully empty the trap into the bucket and search for your item. With any luck it will be there.
6. Simply reassemble the trap by tightening the hex nuts back in place, turn your water supply back on and immediately run some water down the sink to restore the water barrier in the trap.
7. If your item was not in the trap there is one additional possibility that your system contains a “grease filter” in line to your sewage system. This is not an easy nor pleasant task to handle but if the item lost was of extreme value invest in your friendly local plumber to assist in locating and cleaning the filter and look for the item.
HAPPY HUNTING!!

Does your faucet have a lifetime guarantee?

Another thread I ran across this week was from a poster who had a problem with their MOEN brand kitchen single handle faucet. They didn’t know what happened but it had fallen apart and now they were having to do without a kitchen faucet and in a panic. Reference http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/not-sure-what-i-did-my-faucet-44113/ for the whole story. Many kind people jumped to assist in how to go about fixing it because obviously in this day and age none of us can afford to go out and buy a new faucet without just cause. As you can read, my answer was simple CALL MOEN. You see since 1987 Moen has offered a lifetime parts and service warranty on their products and on many occasions I know that if the part isn’t available or the faucet has been discontinued they routinely send you a brand new equivalent fixture. To the best of my knowledge this has now forced many manufacturers to offer the same thing. As you can see the poster did just that and sure enough MOEN sent a new faucet. I read postings daily where people are desperately seeking some missing or broken part for a plumbing fixture without considering that there may be a warranty option. It only takes a 1-800 free call to the manufacturer to see if they can help. Below , provided by the good folks at National Builder Supply, is a list of the customer service numbers for some of the major makers. I keep this close by and refer folks to it often.
Toto- 1-888-295-8134
Danze Customer Service- 1-877-530-3344
Danze replacement parts- 1-888-328-2383
Price Pfister- 1-800-732-8238
Moen- 1-800-289-6636
Grohe- 1-800-444-7643
Matco-Norca- 1-800-443-7526
Delta 1-800-345-3358
Houzer 1-800-880-3639

If the manufacturer of your fixture isn’t listed here simply Google them and seek a contact number. It only costs you a few minutes to possibly save yourself a lot of time and money. Before calling make sure you know who made your fixture and if possible have a digital picture to email to them to help identify the model and problem.

WATCHING FOR UPS

Contrary to some opinions expressed in the discussion groups I am not on the payroll at National Builder Supply. I stated at the very beginning (first blog) that I am not an employee but instead very much a fan of both the company and its owner Marcus Morgan.
Why do I bring this up again? Well I buy, from NBS, things that I want, like anybody else, and do so for the same reason as everybody else…great service, nice people, great low price guarantee, and free shipping. Well after writing, recently, about the benefits of the TOTO Washlet and the advantages that it would present to any elderly or disabled person and their families, I decided that I fell into both of those categories and then some. I’m older than most dirt, suffer from Parkinson’s and find the simple things in life harder to accomplish on a day to day basis. Things that we all take for granted like washing dishes, cooking simple things, cleaning house, getting dressed and most importantly the simple act of going to the bathroom and keeping oneself clean and sanitary afterwards. This latter task convinced me that a Washlet was not only a luxury, on a day to day basis, but was becoming an essential for me to continue to maintain a simple quality of life. So I broke down a couple of days ago and ordered a basic Washlet. Even though I had written and read about them, it wasn’t until I got ready to order one that I realized all the functions that they offer and the options available. A Washlet not only washes you, it warms the seat, can be purchased with a hot water reservoir allowing a constant supply of instant hot water for the washing function, and can be ordered with just a stream of water or an oscillating function. The only thing missing is the MP3/DVD /CD player option. Maybe If TOTO reads this that will be forth coming. I’m excited and anxious for my Washlet to get here, thus watching for the UPS truck. In the meantime to further the sense of urgency I broke the toilet seat the other day and every time I sit down it pinches me…LOL, I know TOO MUCH INFORMATION, but at least you can see I’m a real person.
I would like to take a moment and a few words to also acknowledge that I am still able to live alone only through the good graces of friends of 40+ years like Mike (Crash and Burn) and Dianne Hennecy who do my shopping, take me to doctors appointments, look in on me daily, call me constantly to make sure I’m OK and a myriad of other things and neighbors Bill and Shirley Whiteside who live across the street. Bill has medical problems that make me look like a young whippersnapper but cranks up his golf car almost every day and takes my little dog, Nate (SEE PIC ABOVE, Nate doing what he does best), and me for a ride around the neighborhood to give Nate some exercise. Nate runs along side the golf cart doing his best imitation of a sled dog. Shirley has her hands full having to see to Bill’s many needs but also never misses a day of coming over to check on me and brings me wonderful home cooked meals. Those folks fill my days with friendship and help. As most of you know, I pass my time by reading and commenting on some 30+ discussion forums and by writing this blog. This gives me a real sense of accomplishment and keeps my mind active even though my body doesn’t cooperate.
The addition of this Washlet along with my existing TOTO Ultramax ADA height toilet will make some of my simple functions a little easier. SO HURRY UP UPS!

EBAY LOVE IT OR LEAVE IT?

Since 2001 EBAY has been listed on my favorites menu and remains an important source of information and a valuable purchase and selling place for my family and me. I proudly have a transaction history of 239 transactions and 100% positive feedback. So I’m no professional but am well enough versed in EBAYing to speak with some authority in both the pros and cons.
Pros
Convenience- for many years I lived in a more remote area (North Georgia Mountains) where a shopping trip meant a 50 miles drive for most anything other than food. I found EBAY to be a great quick easy source for some things that we needed as a family and especially good for holiday occasions and birthdays, etc. It’s today’s version of the Sears Catalog for the modern family. Just look for what youre seeking, click on bid or “buy it now” pay for it with your PAYPAL account, the only way to do it (more on that later, and then wait for the UPS truck to arrive.
Price – EBAY, unlike your usual retail store, you decide what you want to pay for an item.Try that at Walmart and see how quickly you get laughed out of the store. Even if you do decide to buy retail from a box store EBAY provides a great forum for price comparison. Look up the item and see what a myriad of vendors are selling the item for as well as being able to research previously sold merchandise for a history of any item recently sold on EBAY. I love and have been known to buy, sell and collect older rare Mercedes and use EBAY as quick pricing guide that I find more reliable than the internet auto pricing guides that are available. I cannot venture a guess at how often I have seen an item mentioned on TV and wondered what it cost. A quick look on EBAY can come close to telling you the current retail but gives you a chance to see what kind of better price you can get it for. I mention, as an example, my most recent purchase. I have shaved, most of my life, with a variety of safety razors and foam. With my Parkinsons worsening I have found it more and more difficult and downright dangerous to do that any more. My best friend of 40+ years “Crash and Burn Hennecy” (reference some of my previous mentions of his mishaps) recommended that I buy a Panasonic “wet and dry” electric razor. I live on a very tight budget so the idea of going to the local retailer and buying one is just not in my realm of possibilities. So I looked them up on EBAY found that new they were from $90 to $130. It may as well been $1000 with my resources, but a quick search found me a brand new in the box identical shaver, received by someone as a gift and never used. Seller was asking $29.95 + freight but had it listed as “make and offer”. I offered $25.00 including freight and within 30 minutes had bought it. I bet that most of you who do not frequent EBAY were not even aware that you can make an offer on some things.
Safety and Guarantees – This is something that I will also touch on in the “CONS” section because it can be the best and worst thing about dealing on EBAY. If you are careful in your selection, read the sellers ad carefully, and uphold your end of the bargain you can be assured of getting what you ordered as you expect it to be and when you expect it. Between EBAY and PAYPAL you are offered some very strong buyer protection guarantees and money refund promises, but it begins with your knowing what you are buying and from whom.

CONS
Price – yes I mentioned that in the PROS section but there is a danger to price on EBAY. As I mentioned earlier you should do your research before buying anything. Take a look at as many like items as you have the patience for. Decide what price you are willing to pay and stick to it. Just like any auction if you are not capable of sitting on your hands when the price passes your maximum then you don’t need to play the game. Additionally watch for hidden handling fees and exorbitant shipping fees. Many sellers will low ball the price and then get their profit in those fees. Use common sense, you know that a priority mail package less than 1 lb will go to any lower 48 states location for about $5.00. If a seller is charging more than that for what you want to buy ask him why? Or refuse to buy and move on to the next item. Thousands of people bid on something and win at the price they wanted to pay only to get to checkout and find the price to be way over what they wanted to pay. By then you’ve committed to buy and if you renege you chance getting a black mark on your EBAY account. Most reliable sellers provide a shipping calculator for you to determine the amount on your own but if the shipping and handling charges are not clearly defined ask the seller for the amount to your zip code before you enter the first bid.
Quality – I am very cautious about buying any non name brand item. There are many sellers selling cheap import items, from electronics to computers, that look great in the pictures but are not apples to apples as the name brand item and most have no warranty. If there is a warranty on any item on EBAY it should be clearly noted in the seller’s ad. As in my searching for “wet dry” shavers there were literally hundreds of them offered from $.99 but not a one was a named brand. Again I stress read the AD thoroughly before you ever make a first bid.
Safety and Guarantees – as I previously mentioned an EBay purchase can be safe and fully guaranteed but you need to know who you are doing business with. Study the seller’s number of transactions, always at the top of the listing as well as his percentage of satisfactory feedbacks. Read the feedbacks don’t just trust the numbers, some can be very enlightening. Always pay with your PAYPAL account which offers the best in security for your credit cards and banking information and virtually guarantees that if you don’t get you shipment you get a refund.
In summation EBAY can be fun and rewarding but Caveat emptor.

A trusted EBAY seller of long term is the H.M.Wallace family of online businesses such as National Builder Supply and Performance Toilets. Their EBAY stores are listed in their names, nothing to hide, they both are EBAY ‘POWER SELLERS”, maintaining spotless reputations and offer extraordinary values in closeouts and overstocks from their online retail stores and as always offering free shipping and no handling charges. So get your feet wet and dive into the EBAY experience.

THIS IS CARRYING "INSTANT HOT WATER" TO THE MAX!

I recently wrote a blog entitled “Why is my hot water tank leaking?” and at that time I thought I had pretty much covered the basics of what to expect from a malfunctioning Hot water heater. Over this past weekend I ran across a thread on the DIYChatroom.com discussion group which not only has reminded me of additional dangerous possibilities of a hot water heater malfunction but gives me reason to reemphasize the importance of the T&P valve as well as the need for you to know how much potential damage an out of control HWH can cause. Reference http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/hot-water-coming-out-all-pipes-help-44137/ to read and understand how this situation started and the many postings in response to the thread that were made, including mine.
This homeowner comes home to find that hot water is coming from all faucets hot or cold and even in the toilet. What would your first thought be? Somehow the pipes have gotten crossed? Somebody has turned on a valve somewhere in the house blocking the cold water?(no such valve exists), It’s all in your mind, the days have become hot and the water must be heating in the pipes?.....NONE OF THE ABOVE. This homeowner has an out of control hot water heater with either no T&P valve or one that is stuck and not opening. As the thread continues we find that there apparently isn’t one at all. He posted his thread at about 7:30 Saturday morning and I saw it about 1 hour later along with another reader and I was afraid at that point that neither could have gotten back to him in time. If you read my response you will see that I am trying to give him some information but more importantly I am urging him to turn the darn HWH off then worry about why it’s doing it. It is also important to note that in today’s economy we all have to make decisions about what we can and cannot afford. I for one am disabled and have limited financial resources and have to make day to day decisions as to what I can spend money on just basic necessities. With that said the homeowner states he can’t afford a plumber and the reality is this is one of those things that he will have to afford and can surely afford a plumber more than to have to replace the house or pay for a funeral.
Now what happened? As I said in my opinion, and the opinion of all but one of the posters to the thread, is that for some as yet undetermined reason the HWH has over heated to the MAX and a malfunctioning or non-existent T&P valve has allowed so much pressure from this overheating to cause the boiling hot water to force its way through the plumbing system and seek an outlet to relieve the pressure. If the valve had been working the pressure would have been relieved by the valve opening and draining pressure and water out. In most cases the plumbing would not hold and the HWH tank would literally explode. One of the posters relates a story of HWH actually blowing out through the roof of the house and in this case had the HWH exploded it is gas fired and so a resulting fire and explosion would have probably occurred. CAN YOU NOW SEE WHY I WAS IN SUCH A PANIC WHEN I READ IT? We still don’t know the final outcome of this particular situation but we do know that he turned the HWH off in time and hopefully is addressing getting the problem repaired by a licensed plumber today.
The last posting (#20) sums up the things that some folks will do to save money and yet endanger their families (not aimed at this homeowner) plug up the hole where the T&P valve was supposed to be, or allow a non-functioning T&P valve to remain in place, unchecked and not replaced. Don’t wait for hot water to fill up your toilet. Read up on how to do a regular maintenance on your HWH or call a good plumber and ask that he come out and check yours at least on an annual basis. There are many other things that can cause problems with a HWH, stuck or malfunctioning thermostats, heating elements shorting out in an electrical heater, in the event of a gas fired heater faulty pilot lights and deteriorating burners. All of these as well as the general condition of the tank should be inspected and respected.

CAN I INSTALL A TOILET IN MY BASEMENT?

The most difficult new additions of plumbing fixtures are tubs, showers and toilets. Obviously the difficulty arises from the need to drain from the bottom. I read in threads all of time where people ask “I have a tub, can we take it out and replace it with a shower and a toilet or bidet”. Well it is easier to replace a tub with a shower but toilets require a larger drain and thus a lot of changes in the overall plumbing which is located in the floor. The question of the week was how about a basement? How easy is it to add a bathroom with a toilet to my basement? The simple answer is ITS NOT EASY. To have an operative toilet you need 3 things, a water supply, a drain line and a vent (drains don’t work effectively without one). Additionally you are usually dealing with a steel reinforced concrete slab that is the basement floor. Let’s talk about each individually:
1. WATER SUPPLY – probably the easiest thing to accomplish. Many basements have laundry fixtures that are easy to tap to provide water and if not the main water line from the street comes into, through or just above the basement allowing for easy access. Additionally of you are just building out your basement you have the full ability to hide the piping from the source to where you need it in the stud partition walls. If none of those sources are easy it is a simple job to find a water line from the kitchen or bathrooms above to pull a supply line from. So take a look around and see where you can get the water and keep in mind you want to get it from the shortest distance to keep from losing water pressure from a long complicated run.
2. DRAIN LINE – Probably the hardest thing to accomplish. This may require cutting into the concrete floor and not just a hole underneath the fixture but may require a trench across the floor to the outside to the main drain. Depending on the depth below ground of the basement this may actually be impossible because the last time I checked water does not run uphill without some considerable encouragement. So your only alternative would be to drain the basement fixtures into existing drains from the house. You might get lucky and find the drain coming down a wall and through the floor and be able to tap into it and minimize the lift needed but lift will still be needed. If not, you will have to locate where it leaves the house above and facilitate a connection to that and install a sump type system to take the effluent from the toilet and pump it up and out. There are several types of systems for this. You can buy a complete sump and pump system that comes in a drum type device (see pic) that can be buried simply in a hole beneath the toilet requiring only a simple cut in the concrete and a hole deep enough to bury the device. Another alternative is to raise the toilet up above floor height to allow for a drain line out the bottom and connect to an external pump either beside or behind the toilet. This can be done by building a frame cover with plywood to hide the mechanics or there are complete devices that can be purchased that already have the box, drain and pump in one fiberglass assembly (see pic). Either of these last two options will require a step up to the toilet or that the entire bathroom be raised above floor level. The latter will make a cleaner neater appearance but a step up from floor level into the bathroom will be required. These lift pump and complete assemblies can be bought for from $400 to $1500 plus labor to install.
3. VENT – Most people underestimate the value and importance of the vent. A vent does two things, it allows the drain to breathe so that water flows out as it should and secondly it takes dangerous sewer gases up and out of the house. If your home is properly vented now with some over capacity of needed vent you will simply need to locate the nearest vent above the basement level and tap into it. In your house is already suffering from inadequate or minimum venting then you will have to run a vent pipe from the basement up through the house and out and above the roof line of your house. This will of course require getting into walls, the attic and piercing and resealing your roof.
Hopefully I have given you some idea as to the difficulty you’re facing in adding a bathroom to the basement…..impossible? probably not….difficult? definitely….can you do it yourself? I couldn’t and you probably can’t either. Save your effort and call your friendly licensed plumber and at least get a consultation on what will be needed to make it happen.

PVC AND OTHER PIPING...ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES

In my continuing and hopefully final discussion of supply piping materials, today let’s talk about the other major forms of materials used. In previous day's blogs I talked about the use of copper, most consider it to be the premium material and it certainly is the most expensive, then there is PEX, the new kid on the block who’s advantages outweigh it’s disadvantages by a considerable margin. PEX is still relatively new and unfamiliar to most of us. There is considerable controversy both code wise and in connection problems with PEX.
Other primary alternatives are galvanized steel, brass and the PVC (polyvinyl chloride) family. Like copper, steel and brass are very expensive and have similar advantages and disadvantages. Both copper and brass must be soldered in the connections and can represent a fire hazard during the installation phase but it’s rare. Both have the potential to build up scale over years of use which can eventually impede the water flow and copper can eventually develop pinhole leaks caused by electrolysis. These problems, mostly the expense, caused the development and wide spread use of PVC for both supply and drain lines in homes. PVC is inexpensive, easily connected by utilizing PVC glue and a whole family of connectors and is easily installed, like an erector set, making it friendly to most of us DIYers. These days some codes have outlawed plain PVC for supply lines and now require CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) which is considered safer and less likely to impart any chemical taste or hazard especially in hot water lines.
The general disadvantages of PVC or CPVC are that it is highly susceptible to ultraviolet light degradation thus should be used, primarily, in internal uses, it is more susceptible to freezing and must be highly insulated in very cold climates and is a very poor insulator for heat and cold so there can be considerable loss of energy especially in hot water lines. PVC can also be noisy especially when used for drain lines, an almost impossible problem to avoid without considerable sound deadening efforts. PVC supply lines can, like metal lines, also flex and pop causing some of the noise commonly thought of as water hammer, but water hammer, as I discussed in a previous blog, is not just solely caused by the material but by air trapped in the lines. Metallic and plastic lines, except PEX, are too inflexible to offset this action. The last home I had with PVC lines was trouble enough to cause me to never want to use it again. You could hear water draining down the piping every time a toilet was flushed or a faucet was turned on. Despite considerable efforts to insulate the piping every severe winter we experienced frozen and ruptured pipes somewhere in the house and generally the installation looked and sounded cheap. Why? Because it was.
I’m sure that there are more disadvantages and advantages that I have missed, each based on all of the individual experiences of each of us. Hopefully I have hit the high spots and I welcome and ask that you share any and all of your own personal experiences, with any of these materials, in the comments segment of this blog.

TO PEX OR NOT TO PEX? THAT'S THE QUESTION

As promised now a discussion of what I believe to be the most controversial form of plumbing piping on the market today…PEX (or crosslinked polyethylene). I say controversial based on the many discussion groups and forums that I read. PEX is discussed probably 10 times more often than any other form of plastic or metal piping as part of a water supply piping system even though it has several advantages over metal pipe (copper, iron, lead) or rigid plastic pipe (PVC, CPVC, ABS) systems. Some local codes aren’t allowing it for whole house systems and I believe, in general, it is the public’s lack of knowledge on the product that has caused most of the controversy.
PEX tubing is made from crosslinked HDPE (high density polyethylene) polymer. The HDPE is melted and continuously extruded into tube. PEX plumbing has been in use in Europe since about 1970, and was introduced in the U.S. around 1980. The use of PEX has been increasing ever since, replacing copper pipe in many applications, especially radiant heating systems installed in the slab under floors or walkways. Interest in PEX for hot and cold water plumbing has increased recently in the United States which I believe also contributes to the questions and discussions I read.

Advantages of PEX
1. Plumbing PEX plumbing installations cost less because:
o PEX is less expensive than copper pipe.
o Less time is spent running pipe and installing fittings than with rigid pipe systems.
o Installing fewer fittings reduces the chances for expensive callbacks.
2. Flexible PEX can be shipped and stored on spools, where rigid plastic or metal piping must be cut to some practical length for shipping and storage. This leads to lower shipping and handling costs .
3. PEX requires fewer fittings than rigid piping.
4. It can turn 90 degree corners without the need for elbow fittings.
5. PEX tubing unrolled from spools can be installed in long runs without the need for coupling fittings.
6. PEX tube fittings do not require soldering, and so the health hazards involved with lead-based solder and acid fluxes are eliminated. This makes it safer to install since no torch is needed to make connections..
7. PEX resists the scale build-up common with copper pipe, and does not pit or corrode when exposed to acidic water.
8. PEX is much more resistant to freeze-breakage than copper or rigid plastic pipe.
9. PEX tubing does not transfer heat as readily as copper, and so conserves energy.
10. Water flows more quietly through PEX tube, and the characteristic "water hammer" noise of metal pipe systems is virtually eliminated.
11. PEX can be used in combination with metal or other plastic piping and is currently most often used as connectors on existing system when old lines must be replaced in an existing system.
12. Each supply line typically has a shut off line in place for repair convenience
13. Pex is available In colors making easier to color code your plumbing system or easily identify hot and cold pipes.
14. A “manifold” system can be made as a part of the PEX installation allowing better segregation of hot and cold lines and better regulation of pressure.

Disadvantages of PEX:
1. It cannot be used outside and can become damaged if even left outside (as are many plastics its very susceptible to ultraviolet) for any long period of time
2. It has a shorter life expectancy and thus does not provide an option to recycle.
3. PEX has an impermeable membrane that may allow the possibility of contaminating your water. Oxygen barrier versions of PEX can be had at additional expense (30% more) to overcome this issue and would be required if you used PEX in radiant floor heating applications
4. Even though it is easier to install it is a more difficult initial installation for the untrained.

Well there it is folks, my take on the PEX controversy. Cheaper, easier to install, less chance of freezing and many more advantages than disadvantages but somehow, to me, just smacks of CHEAP. Is it better than PVC? You bet! Is it better than copper as far as long lasting and known value? No Chance.
Next time and overall discussion of other metallic and plastic options including the perennial favorite PVC.

COPPER...FOR PLUMBING OR JUST FOR PENNIES?

Over my next few blogs I intend to discuss the advantages and disadvantages of the most common materials used for plumbing in homes today. The primary three are copper, steel or plastic with a myriad of choices now on the market in the latter. For today’s discussion I am going to start with copper which for many years has been considered to be the ultimate quality material to use.
Advantages
1. Copper is a soft metal known for its pliability so it can bend rather easily and uses less fasteners and connectors for the ease of installation
2. Bacteria can grow in other types of plumbing, especially plastic. Copper pipe plumbing has antibacterial properties that can prevent the grow of bacteria
3. When using other types of metal and connectors there is a risk of lead poisoning. With no lead used in the manufacturing of Copper pipe plumbing there is no risk of lead problems.
4. Unlike steel, copper pipes resist corrosion. Copper develops a patina over years but this does not cause damage
5. Copper piping is also capable of withstanding ultraviolet rays unlike plastic and makes it far better for outside uses such as in a sprinkler systems. Ultraviolet rays cause plastic to become discolored and brittle thus reducing its life expectancy.
6. Copper piping resists temperature changes making it more resistant to freezing. Don’t be mislead, it will freeze and rupture in temperature extremes I was blown away the first time I saw the damage to a copper pipe after a hard freeze night. The difference was 1 burst pipe in the house while a neighbor’s house, done in PVC, had pipes burst all over and the resulting water damage.
7. In the event of fire copper will not give off the toxic fumes that plastic piping systems will and can potential keep water flowing longer in the house to fight a fire
Disadvantages
1. The most significant disadvantage of copper pipe plumbing is the cost. Copper is a considerably more expensive material than plastic or steel. Although the installation of copper pipe plumbing requires less hardware, it will still be more expensive to install. Unfortunately the value of copper and the problems with our existing economy is causing a very real problem with the theft of copper piping in new homes under construction and unattended homes.
2, Although one of the advantages of copper is its flexibility a disadvantage can be how it must be connected. All copper systems require soldering for connections and if you are like me and find soldering to be a lost art then you will either want to avoid doing it yourself and plan on having a professional plumber do the job. Improperly soldered connections can ultimately result in leaks that don’t show up initially.
3. Another disadvantage of copper pipe plumbing deals with water acidity. Copper plumbing is only suitable for water that has a pH between 6.5 and 8.5 thus. Well water may be too acidic for copper pipe plumbing. You will want to have your well water tested before making the decision for copper and monitor the ph level several times a year. You should do this regardless of the type of materials you decide to use because the acidic/alkaline factor can affect many other things in your home from your own health to the affectivity of detergents.

Now with the discussion done on copper, stand by for next weeks exciting episode "TO PEX OR NOT TO PEX....THAT IS THE QUESTION".