Problems show up on the discussion forums in groups sort of like mini epidemics. One week it will be slow flushing toilets, then smelly water or smells eminating from areas of your house other than your teenagers bedroom, then it will be septic tank problems. This past week it seems to have been leaky faucets especially outside hose bibs. This latter becomes more important to have fixed with the arrival of winter time freezing well within reach. In researching leaks in general to give you the best answer I ran across the following simple step by step process that details repairing a leak in simple easy to understand terms so I thought I would pass it along. It comes from www.factoidz.com to whom I give complete credit.
“No matter how tightly you turn the faucet, the water continues to drip, You see dollar signs going down the drain, and your neighborhood plumber wants $75 just to walk in the front door. Sure, you could put a pot in the sink and collect these drips, thinking you can use the water on your plants. But you know you won't. You'll just empty the pot down the drain. OR — you could spend maybe a half hour and less than a dollar in parts and repair this wasteful problem on your own. Regardless if you are in the bathroom or kitchen, sink plumbing is basically the same.
You have two water lines coming in, one for each faucet and there is a water shut-off valve in each line allowing for easy repairs.
STEP ONE: Shut the water off to the faucet you wish to repair. A word of advice here is to shut off both valves, turning each clockwise.Though only one faucet may be leaking, the cost involved is so minor, you might as well do some preventive maintenance while you're at it.
STEP TWO: Remove the faucet handles, because under those plastic buttons that say H and C are the screws securing these handles. Try a fingernail and pop those buttons out and a Phillips head screw should be underneath. With the water turned off, remove that screw and pull the handles off. Now what you see is a water valve stem. Do not be intimidated here, you are in charge. Using a pair of Channel locks, or lacking those, a pair of pliers, wrap a piece of rag around the valve stem and remove the stem from the sink by turning each of these counterclockwise. The rag is to prevent you from screwing up the threads on the stems. Now, with the stems out, you have the root of your problem in your hand. Put each stem nearest the hole you removed it from. On the bottom of each valve is a small brass screw and a round, black rubber washer. The washer is your culprit. The washer is what is allowing water to seep through no matter how tightly you turn the faucet. In fact, as time has passed, and you have turned the faucet tighter and tighter, this has had a negative effect on the washer, and compressed it to the problem point. So now,
STEP THREE: is to remove those brass screws and lift out those nasty washers. Put the washers in your pocket.
STEP FOUR: get in your car, or truck, and go to Lowe's, Home Depot or any home improvement store. Show he man in the plumbing section your washers. Follow him to the plumbing parts, watch him open several drawers until he locates the ones that MATCH YOURS. Thank the man (or woman) and go pay for them.
STEP FIVE: Go home. Install the washers, the brass screws and hand tighten the valve stems back into their respective holes. Grab that rag again and cover the threads and tighten the valve stems, clockwise, until they're seated. You don't need a ton of muscle here, just tighten them. STEP SIX: Open both water valves.
STEP SEVEN: Place the faucet handles back on the valve stems and turn the water on. If the handles work differently now, that means you put the wrong valve in the wrong hole. DUH! Turn the water back off before correcting this mental lapse of yours.
STEP EIGHT: Turn the faucets on and off several times. Feel your pride swell? See the water stop when you shut the faucet? Feeling good here? Call the family, show them what you have done!
STEP NINE: Strut through the house, looking for problems you can correct. Slide those pliers in your back pocket. Consider buying a tool pouch soon.
STEP TEN: Go and relax for a while in your easy chair, thinking of ways to spend your new found wealth. Sleep well.”
Sounds just like something I would have written doesn’t it?
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Sunday, September 27, 2009
GRAY WATER SYSTEMS, WILL THEY WORK FOR YOU?
A couple of times a day people use the bathroom sink to wash up or brush their teeth. Several times a week families do one or more loads of laundry depending on the size of family.
Where does all of that used water go? If you have a septic system this water mixes with your black water (from flushing toilets) and eventually goes into the septic tank and drain fields. Possible ground or drinking water contamination could result. If you live in a municipality it might go into the sanitary sewer system. In many parts of the country fresh water is scarce, especially during the hotter seasons of the year. Lawn watering contributes a great deal to freshwater depletion. Lower reservoirs, wells and rivers result from increased fresh water usage.
There may be a better way. Gray water systems allow homeowners to filter gray water for use in watering gardens, yards and plants. Not disposing of gray water into septic systems keeps the septic tank and drain field from becoming overtaxed with fluids. In cities the sanitary sewer system also benefits from less volume of gray water to treat and process which would decrease the treatment load and expense.
Ignorance of the facts contribute to the reason behind the lack of acceptance in using gray water systems. In the vast majority of septic or sewer systems, the gray water from showers and laundry mix with the black water from the toilets and go into a septic tank or down the public sewer. The mixed grey and black water then goes into the drain field to be dispersed underground.
There are basically two types of gray water systems, gravity fed manual systems and package systems. The manual systems do not require electricity or pumps because they work on gravity taking the gray water to the area needed. They may require a larger yard area to install the system outside. Packaged systems require electricity but are self-contained and can be installed indoors. With each option codes and local ordinances must be considered.
Manual gravity fed gray water systems can vary greatly in their design. Some use various means of filtering. Others dispose of the gray water while some store gray water for watering plants, lawns and gardens. Local codes may restrict or dictate the type of system you install. Here’s a great book on manual gray water systems available from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0964343304?tag=cedahousinnyu-20&camp=14573&creative=327641&linkCode=as1&creativeASIN=0964343304&adid=0B27XZEXZG0TQRKGD87T&
Packaged gray water systems are difficult to find in the USA. In fact very few are manufactured in the USA. Most are made by companies in drought prone areas like Australia. One issue with gray water systems is code approvals in the US. As I mentioned earlier many local and state health officials do not understand gray water reuses. Some systems available in the US contain a tank to filter and hold the gray water. Installing some of these systems in an existing home can be expensive depending on where the gray water system is located since filtered gray water must be piped separately from black water from the toilet. Most local codes now require a low flow or dual flush toilet. A segregated system would allow using the gray water for the yard and gardens and collect gray water in a plastic storage tank to reuse. Such an arrangement may not meet local codes since the stored gray water can harbor bacteria. Those systems that hold gray water in storage tanks longer that 24 hours require disinfection with chlorine or UV light. Watering a flower garden or yard with chlorinated water could be detrimental to plants. So if you consider installing a gray water system make sure you are aware of the maintenance requires
I prefer a gray water system that filters the gray water and directly discharges the water into the yard. When yard watering is not required the gray water could go into the sanitary sewer or septic system or help replenish a small pond. Such systems exist in Australia and other drought prone areas of the world.
Here is a web site with some state (not all and not necessarily current) regulations http://www.gray water-systems.com/regs.htm
Where does all of that used water go? If you have a septic system this water mixes with your black water (from flushing toilets) and eventually goes into the septic tank and drain fields. Possible ground or drinking water contamination could result. If you live in a municipality it might go into the sanitary sewer system. In many parts of the country fresh water is scarce, especially during the hotter seasons of the year. Lawn watering contributes a great deal to freshwater depletion. Lower reservoirs, wells and rivers result from increased fresh water usage.
There may be a better way. Gray water systems allow homeowners to filter gray water for use in watering gardens, yards and plants. Not disposing of gray water into septic systems keeps the septic tank and drain field from becoming overtaxed with fluids. In cities the sanitary sewer system also benefits from less volume of gray water to treat and process which would decrease the treatment load and expense.
Ignorance of the facts contribute to the reason behind the lack of acceptance in using gray water systems. In the vast majority of septic or sewer systems, the gray water from showers and laundry mix with the black water from the toilets and go into a septic tank or down the public sewer. The mixed grey and black water then goes into the drain field to be dispersed underground.
There are basically two types of gray water systems, gravity fed manual systems and package systems. The manual systems do not require electricity or pumps because they work on gravity taking the gray water to the area needed. They may require a larger yard area to install the system outside. Packaged systems require electricity but are self-contained and can be installed indoors. With each option codes and local ordinances must be considered.
Manual gravity fed gray water systems can vary greatly in their design. Some use various means of filtering. Others dispose of the gray water while some store gray water for watering plants, lawns and gardens. Local codes may restrict or dictate the type of system you install. Here’s a great book on manual gray water systems available from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0964343304?tag=cedahousinnyu-20&camp=14573&creative=327641&linkCode=as1&creativeASIN=0964343304&adid=0B27XZEXZG0TQRKGD87T&
Packaged gray water systems are difficult to find in the USA. In fact very few are manufactured in the USA. Most are made by companies in drought prone areas like Australia. One issue with gray water systems is code approvals in the US. As I mentioned earlier many local and state health officials do not understand gray water reuses. Some systems available in the US contain a tank to filter and hold the gray water. Installing some of these systems in an existing home can be expensive depending on where the gray water system is located since filtered gray water must be piped separately from black water from the toilet. Most local codes now require a low flow or dual flush toilet. A segregated system would allow using the gray water for the yard and gardens and collect gray water in a plastic storage tank to reuse. Such an arrangement may not meet local codes since the stored gray water can harbor bacteria. Those systems that hold gray water in storage tanks longer that 24 hours require disinfection with chlorine or UV light. Watering a flower garden or yard with chlorinated water could be detrimental to plants. So if you consider installing a gray water system make sure you are aware of the maintenance requires
I prefer a gray water system that filters the gray water and directly discharges the water into the yard. When yard watering is not required the gray water could go into the sanitary sewer or septic system or help replenish a small pond. Such systems exist in Australia and other drought prone areas of the world.
Here is a web site with some state (not all and not necessarily current) regulations http://www.gray water-systems.com/regs.htm
Friday, September 25, 2009
Now it's "Cash for Clunker Appliances"?
Over the last couple of months I blogged about the “Cash for Clunkers” program which ended a few weeks ago with mixed reviews. The end result, regardless, was that it did take some old gas guzzlers off the road, managed to clear the dealer’s lots of over 450,000 of built up inventory of unsold vehicles and even put some assembly lines back to work Now I read in an article from freelance writer Aaron Crowe published on “Wallet Pop” that the next phase is a stimulus program to promote the sales of high energy efficient appliances. The following is an excerpt from Mr. Crowe’s article for whom I extend full credit and thanks for the article::
“With the federal "Cash for Clunkers" program such a resounding success and now out of money, prepare for the next wave of federal stimulus money “Cash for refrigerators”. That isn't the formal name of the federal program, which is set to begin late this fall with rebates of $50 to $200 on purchases of high-efficiency household appliances, part of a $300 million stimulus to boost home appliance sales. Users won't have to trade in their old dish washers, refrigerators or other appliances to get the rebate. The Energy Department expects most of the $300 million to be awarded by the end of November, although given the success of the car program, you might want to get in line early at your favorite home supply store. (Other sources say the money and the program will be fully exhausted by November 1) Program details will vary by state, and states have until Oct. 15 to file formal applications with the Energy Department.
New appliances must have an Energy Star seal to qualify. In 2008, about 55% of newly-produced major household appliances met those standards, which are set by the Energy Department and the Environmental Protection Agency.
"These rebates will help families make the transition to more efficient appliances, making purchases that will directly stimulate the economy," Energy Secretary Steven Chu said in a statement announcing the plan, according to “BusinessWeek” (magazine).
Most states already have rebates for energy-saving appliances. When I bought a new washing machine last month, I was eligible to get $200 from my power and water companies because it used less electricity and water than what it replaced. And, as anyone who has had an appliance repairman stop by can tell you, it's usually cheaper to buy a new appliance than have it fixed.
The new rebates will be in addition to existing rebates that utilities or stores already offer. And beyond the extra money, the best news may be that you don't have to drag your old appliance to the store to get the rebate. Buying a new washing machine may not be as much fun as buying a new car with a clunker trade-in, but it's a lot cheaper way to stimulate the economy while saving money.” (this ends Mr. Crowe’s article)
The down side to this program is similar in some ways to the “Cash for Clunkers” program in that a vast majority of the products sold with that program came from foreign manufacturers with Toyota being the big winner in the last calculations that I read. Appliances will be no different with the major American brands now manufactured outside of the U.S., especially in Mexico. Granted it will still serve to diminish inventory in your local appliance store and will provide a tremendous energy savings by getting the old “clunker” appliances out of service, that is if they truly disappear from service and don’t just appear on Craigslist because there is no requirement to destroy the old offending appliances.
As Mr Crowe’s article mentions there are programs in place in many states that already offer rebates or sales tax exemptions on energy savings appliances and even on plumbing fixtures, HVAC systems, lighting products and many other items. Whether this new program lures you down to the local appliance store to replace your old “Norge” or not the best thing to do, whenever you decide its time change any major appliance, fixture or device in your home, is to check with your local utility company, search the internet, talk to friends and discuss with retailers the many ways to save money on the initial purchase as well as long term energy savings.
“With the federal "Cash for Clunkers" program such a resounding success and now out of money, prepare for the next wave of federal stimulus money “Cash for refrigerators”. That isn't the formal name of the federal program, which is set to begin late this fall with rebates of $50 to $200 on purchases of high-efficiency household appliances, part of a $300 million stimulus to boost home appliance sales. Users won't have to trade in their old dish washers, refrigerators or other appliances to get the rebate. The Energy Department expects most of the $300 million to be awarded by the end of November, although given the success of the car program, you might want to get in line early at your favorite home supply store. (Other sources say the money and the program will be fully exhausted by November 1) Program details will vary by state, and states have until Oct. 15 to file formal applications with the Energy Department.
New appliances must have an Energy Star seal to qualify. In 2008, about 55% of newly-produced major household appliances met those standards, which are set by the Energy Department and the Environmental Protection Agency.
"These rebates will help families make the transition to more efficient appliances, making purchases that will directly stimulate the economy," Energy Secretary Steven Chu said in a statement announcing the plan, according to “BusinessWeek” (magazine).
Most states already have rebates for energy-saving appliances. When I bought a new washing machine last month, I was eligible to get $200 from my power and water companies because it used less electricity and water than what it replaced. And, as anyone who has had an appliance repairman stop by can tell you, it's usually cheaper to buy a new appliance than have it fixed.
The new rebates will be in addition to existing rebates that utilities or stores already offer. And beyond the extra money, the best news may be that you don't have to drag your old appliance to the store to get the rebate. Buying a new washing machine may not be as much fun as buying a new car with a clunker trade-in, but it's a lot cheaper way to stimulate the economy while saving money.” (this ends Mr. Crowe’s article)
The down side to this program is similar in some ways to the “Cash for Clunkers” program in that a vast majority of the products sold with that program came from foreign manufacturers with Toyota being the big winner in the last calculations that I read. Appliances will be no different with the major American brands now manufactured outside of the U.S., especially in Mexico. Granted it will still serve to diminish inventory in your local appliance store and will provide a tremendous energy savings by getting the old “clunker” appliances out of service, that is if they truly disappear from service and don’t just appear on Craigslist because there is no requirement to destroy the old offending appliances.
As Mr Crowe’s article mentions there are programs in place in many states that already offer rebates or sales tax exemptions on energy savings appliances and even on plumbing fixtures, HVAC systems, lighting products and many other items. Whether this new program lures you down to the local appliance store to replace your old “Norge” or not the best thing to do, whenever you decide its time change any major appliance, fixture or device in your home, is to check with your local utility company, search the internet, talk to friends and discuss with retailers the many ways to save money on the initial purchase as well as long term energy savings.
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
5 Common Water Heater Problems
I wrote a blog a few days ago about a problem a family was having with their hot water heater. They would quickly use up a 50 gal tank of hot water then the reset button would go off. I conjectured, at the time, that they had a lower heating element out or if the reset button wasn’t tripping then their problem was that their HWH was just too small for their household. After now having received several comments and direct emails requesting further information on similar situations I decided it's time to cover the subject a little more in depth. The question is “I only have 5 minutes of hot water and it gets cold, what causes this”? There could be several reasons for this type of problem. First eliminate the ones that have nothing to do with the water heater. Are any of your hot water faucets leaking or dripping? How long has it been since you last ran the dishwasher or the washing machine? These things are obvious and can easily use up a hot water supply in most households. In the absence of those solutions there are 5 other things that come to mind and I’m sure that there are many more that have escaped me but these are the primary ones I think of:
1. As in my other blog the HWH can just be too small for your family. If running out of hot water is a new problem, unless you have recently gotten a teenager in the family who is taking 1 hour showers, then this is probably not your problem.
2. Your bottom heating element is burned out. If your HWH is electric it has 2 elements, one at the top and one at the bottom. The tank feeds hot water from the top and if the bottom element isn’t working then you are quickly siphoning off all of your hot water and the upper element cannot keep up with the demand. This is an easy fix in most heaters but because your are dealing with 220 power if you don’t know what youre doing call an electrician
3. You have a dip tube problem. The dip tube is simply the supply line which forces cold water into the HWH when the hot water is being used up. The dip tube is a plastic tube inside the water heater (not the tube that is connected to the relief valve) on the cold water inlet side. this tube goes from the top of the water heater to about 8 inches from the bottom of the tank, forcing the cold water to go to the bottom of the tank, pushing the hot water out of the hot outlet of the water heater. If this tube breaks above that 8” line any hot water below that point will not be available it will just be trapped there. And even though the tank is full of hot water, you will just get a small amount of it. Replacement tubes are available at any plumbing supply. The cold water pipe will need to be removed to replace the tube so unless you’re really good at plumbing you might want to call a plumber.
4. Your lower thermostat is bad. This means that the thermostat is not calling for the lower heating element to come on and thus no hot water is being replenished as you use it from the top. Like the heating element, unless you are adept at electrical work call an electrician.
5. Your upper thermostat is bad. Like the lower thermostat, if it’s not working the upper element doesn’t keep the hot water at the top hot so you get cooler water before you get to the hot water at the bottom. Remember the cold water is delivered to the bottom forcing the hot water on the bottom up and out into your supply lines. Just like the lower element these are an easy fix if you’re adept at electrical work, otherwise call a professional.
Many of these problems, especially the elements and thermostats can cause a rapid overheating of you HWH and result in a dangerous pressure situation. That’s why you should NEVER tamper with your temperature and pressure relief valve and always be aware of any leaks or problems with your HWH requiring a reset or blowing circuit breakers.
1. As in my other blog the HWH can just be too small for your family. If running out of hot water is a new problem, unless you have recently gotten a teenager in the family who is taking 1 hour showers, then this is probably not your problem.
2. Your bottom heating element is burned out. If your HWH is electric it has 2 elements, one at the top and one at the bottom. The tank feeds hot water from the top and if the bottom element isn’t working then you are quickly siphoning off all of your hot water and the upper element cannot keep up with the demand. This is an easy fix in most heaters but because your are dealing with 220 power if you don’t know what youre doing call an electrician
3. You have a dip tube problem. The dip tube is simply the supply line which forces cold water into the HWH when the hot water is being used up. The dip tube is a plastic tube inside the water heater (not the tube that is connected to the relief valve) on the cold water inlet side. this tube goes from the top of the water heater to about 8 inches from the bottom of the tank, forcing the cold water to go to the bottom of the tank, pushing the hot water out of the hot outlet of the water heater. If this tube breaks above that 8” line any hot water below that point will not be available it will just be trapped there. And even though the tank is full of hot water, you will just get a small amount of it. Replacement tubes are available at any plumbing supply. The cold water pipe will need to be removed to replace the tube so unless you’re really good at plumbing you might want to call a plumber.
4. Your lower thermostat is bad. This means that the thermostat is not calling for the lower heating element to come on and thus no hot water is being replenished as you use it from the top. Like the heating element, unless you are adept at electrical work call an electrician.
5. Your upper thermostat is bad. Like the lower thermostat, if it’s not working the upper element doesn’t keep the hot water at the top hot so you get cooler water before you get to the hot water at the bottom. Remember the cold water is delivered to the bottom forcing the hot water on the bottom up and out into your supply lines. Just like the lower element these are an easy fix if you’re adept at electrical work, otherwise call a professional.
Many of these problems, especially the elements and thermostats can cause a rapid overheating of you HWH and result in a dangerous pressure situation. That’s why you should NEVER tamper with your temperature and pressure relief valve and always be aware of any leaks or problems with your HWH requiring a reset or blowing circuit breakers.
Monday, September 21, 2009
Top 10 Home Improvements and their Return on your Investment
A few blogs back I wrote about simple low cost or no cost things you could do to make your home infinitely more saleable:
http://nationalbuildersupply.blogspot.com/2009/08/how-do-i-sell-my-home.html
My feelings are that with the economy in its current state and the fact that many folks are buried in their homes and can’t afford either on a cash basis or credit wise that to put more money into their house is just not feasible. I am still of that opinion but over the weekend AOL published an interesting article listing top ten things that you might spend money on and the return that you could expect to get when you sell. I am of the opinion that these are things to consider only if you are planning on renovating you home to stay in it for the time being not if you are looking to eminently sell. The following are excerpts from that AOL article as well as a link to the original source from “Remodeling Magazine” both to whom I extend credit and thanks for the use of the material.
“If your house has been sitting on the market since spring, you may be asking yourself what you can do to 'get it sold.' As any fan of HGTV will tell you, you can do one of two things or some combination of the two.
1) See what other homes in your area are selling for, then cut your price to make it competitive.
2) Make reasonably priced improvements to help your home look it's best.
There are plenty of home improvement projects that you could spend $10,0000 or $20,000 on, but it's unlikely you'll get more than 50 percent of that back on your resale price in this market. It may be better to offer a credit to the buyer for that amount, rather than trying to do the work yourself.
The top ten high return on investment Projects For Under $30K were listed as follows:
Project | Return on Investment
1. Deck Addition (wood), 81.8%
2. Siding Replacement (vinyl), 80.7%
3. Minor Kitchen Remodel, 79.5%
4. Window Replacement (wood), 77.7%
5. Window Replacement (vinyl), 77.2%
6. Bathroom Remodel, 74.6%
7. Deck Addition (composite), 73.7%
8. Roofing Replacement, 65.5%
9. Backup Power Generator, 57.2%
10. Home Office Remodel, 54.6%
Source: Remodeling Magazine's Cost vs Value Report
As I detailed in my previous blog imagine want a potential buyer sees as they walk up to your home for the first time. Are the bushes covering half the house? Is the yard full of weeds? When the buyer first enters the house, does the paint and carpets look fresh and clean? You should try to try to create an experience for the buyer that they feel as if they don't have to do anything with the house, except maybe change the wall colors or that they can easily see themselves and their furnishings fitting. It is very important to be well versed in the “comps”(comparables) in your neighborhood. Consider them to be your competition. You have to compete on more than just price but also in features, condition, floor plan and content.
Deck additions ranked highly in the report cited above, outdoor space is desirable for buyers but rather than build a 30 by 20 deck on the back of you house just to sell it? Consider screening in an existing deck or put a roof over it? Then it becomes a three-season space. Sellers may want to address at eyesores before they consider any grandiose additions so take care of the problems as opposed to trying to hide things with expensive renovations. As an example make a good first impression consider a new front door with leaded glass or "sidelights," pressure washing your deck or repairing any peeling paint or damaged siding before you start looking at anything else. As I recommended in blogs before, instead of tearing out your bathroom or kitchen look at replacing the countertops, plumbing fixtures, light fixtures and even some appliances.
In the end, in today’s market, your house has a better chance selling if you follow the simple rules that I laid out in my previous blog and know your competition and price it according.
As a passing note be aware that the Government’s $8000 cash purchasing incentive you only have until November 1st.
http://nationalbuildersupply.blogspot.com/2009/08/how-do-i-sell-my-home.html
My feelings are that with the economy in its current state and the fact that many folks are buried in their homes and can’t afford either on a cash basis or credit wise that to put more money into their house is just not feasible. I am still of that opinion but over the weekend AOL published an interesting article listing top ten things that you might spend money on and the return that you could expect to get when you sell. I am of the opinion that these are things to consider only if you are planning on renovating you home to stay in it for the time being not if you are looking to eminently sell. The following are excerpts from that AOL article as well as a link to the original source from “Remodeling Magazine” both to whom I extend credit and thanks for the use of the material.
“If your house has been sitting on the market since spring, you may be asking yourself what you can do to 'get it sold.' As any fan of HGTV will tell you, you can do one of two things or some combination of the two.
1) See what other homes in your area are selling for, then cut your price to make it competitive.
2) Make reasonably priced improvements to help your home look it's best.
There are plenty of home improvement projects that you could spend $10,0000 or $20,000 on, but it's unlikely you'll get more than 50 percent of that back on your resale price in this market. It may be better to offer a credit to the buyer for that amount, rather than trying to do the work yourself.
The top ten high return on investment Projects For Under $30K were listed as follows:
Project | Return on Investment
1. Deck Addition (wood), 81.8%
2. Siding Replacement (vinyl), 80.7%
3. Minor Kitchen Remodel, 79.5%
4. Window Replacement (wood), 77.7%
5. Window Replacement (vinyl), 77.2%
6. Bathroom Remodel, 74.6%
7. Deck Addition (composite), 73.7%
8. Roofing Replacement, 65.5%
9. Backup Power Generator, 57.2%
10. Home Office Remodel, 54.6%
Source: Remodeling Magazine's Cost vs Value Report
As I detailed in my previous blog imagine want a potential buyer sees as they walk up to your home for the first time. Are the bushes covering half the house? Is the yard full of weeds? When the buyer first enters the house, does the paint and carpets look fresh and clean? You should try to try to create an experience for the buyer that they feel as if they don't have to do anything with the house, except maybe change the wall colors or that they can easily see themselves and their furnishings fitting. It is very important to be well versed in the “comps”(comparables) in your neighborhood. Consider them to be your competition. You have to compete on more than just price but also in features, condition, floor plan and content.
Deck additions ranked highly in the report cited above, outdoor space is desirable for buyers but rather than build a 30 by 20 deck on the back of you house just to sell it? Consider screening in an existing deck or put a roof over it? Then it becomes a three-season space. Sellers may want to address at eyesores before they consider any grandiose additions so take care of the problems as opposed to trying to hide things with expensive renovations. As an example make a good first impression consider a new front door with leaded glass or "sidelights," pressure washing your deck or repairing any peeling paint or damaged siding before you start looking at anything else. As I recommended in blogs before, instead of tearing out your bathroom or kitchen look at replacing the countertops, plumbing fixtures, light fixtures and even some appliances.
In the end, in today’s market, your house has a better chance selling if you follow the simple rules that I laid out in my previous blog and know your competition and price it according.
As a passing note be aware that the Government’s $8000 cash purchasing incentive you only have until November 1st.
Friday, September 18, 2009
WHAT'S OLD IS NEW AGAIN...the bathrooms of our lives.
As much as I hate to admit it I’m 61 years old so I have seen a lot of changes in bathroom technology and décor. There are dozens of shower configurations with the two latest rages being rain simulating showerheads and body sprays located around the shower. But as in so many things what’s old is new again, I was privileged to own a beautiful old 1928 Spanish style home in Los Angeles many years ago and it had the body sprays around the shower but I had never seen them anywhere else before and thought they were a great idea. Toilets have changed. My frequent readers know that I talk up ADA height toilets, water saving toilets and Toto Washlets constantly although the idea of bidets have been around as long as running water in bathrooms yet we are installing them now in homes now like they are brand new. Although I must admit that the Washlet is one great new invention that has been a great new feature to my bathroom.
Toilet styles have changed with some space age automatic models like Toto’s Neo line that even has an MP3 built in to retro styles that imitate the old original look. Again this is a prime example of what’s old is new again. This fad is especially popular with us older folks.
Before running water people had, in their bedrooms beautiful pieces of furniture called “wash stands” that were used as the center of one’s daily washing and toilet needs. One would have a nice picture and bowl on the top (usually marble to be water proof) and a “chamber pot” tucked away privately in the bottom of the washstand to save a trip to the outhouse in the middle of the night. This wash stand idea and look is now being recreated with furniture styled bathroom vanities with bowl type sinks that sit on top of the vanity instead of being recessed. These new vanities are often of high furniture quality and can be found in styles from French provincial to Mid Century modern. I recently replaced a 30 year old vanity in one of my bathrooms, that I’m sure was state of the art when new but man was it outdated. The new vanity I chose is a dark finished simple design with a slight Asian influence in design and has now changed the look of the bathroom so much that I will now have to change the wall finish, the tub, the style of show enclosure and have already changed the floor (laminated wood) so be careful. Most people know National Builder Supply for their great selection, prices and service on all kinds of faucets, fixtures and light fixtures but if you dig around their web site, http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/ , you will find a dozens of beautiful high quality furniture styled vanities along with every conceivable type of top and sink you could desire. Be careful thought it could lead to major renovations as well as a trip down memory lane about the bathrooms of your life.
Toilet styles have changed with some space age automatic models like Toto’s Neo line that even has an MP3 built in to retro styles that imitate the old original look. Again this is a prime example of what’s old is new again. This fad is especially popular with us older folks.
Before running water people had, in their bedrooms beautiful pieces of furniture called “wash stands” that were used as the center of one’s daily washing and toilet needs. One would have a nice picture and bowl on the top (usually marble to be water proof) and a “chamber pot” tucked away privately in the bottom of the washstand to save a trip to the outhouse in the middle of the night. This wash stand idea and look is now being recreated with furniture styled bathroom vanities with bowl type sinks that sit on top of the vanity instead of being recessed. These new vanities are often of high furniture quality and can be found in styles from French provincial to Mid Century modern. I recently replaced a 30 year old vanity in one of my bathrooms, that I’m sure was state of the art when new but man was it outdated. The new vanity I chose is a dark finished simple design with a slight Asian influence in design and has now changed the look of the bathroom so much that I will now have to change the wall finish, the tub, the style of show enclosure and have already changed the floor (laminated wood) so be careful. Most people know National Builder Supply for their great selection, prices and service on all kinds of faucets, fixtures and light fixtures but if you dig around their web site, http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/ , you will find a dozens of beautiful high quality furniture styled vanities along with every conceivable type of top and sink you could desire. Be careful thought it could lead to major renovations as well as a trip down memory lane about the bathrooms of your life.
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Bacteria in your Showerhead? What will they think of next?
The old ad for the second “Jaws” movie used the tag line...”Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water”. Now I read it isn’t even safe to get into the shower? No, sharks haven’t taken over your bathroom. If correct, the research announced yesterday on CNN, MSNBC and generally spread by any news service that would print it, it was announced that our showerheads are potentially full of dangerous bacteria. Well I’m from the south and we have been saying for years that we should just bathe on Saturday night so now I have proof. If only my parents were still alive so I could prove to them that they were wrong about those daily showers.
Here is an abridged version of the article for your reading pleasure along with my thanks to the news ,media and the author:
“If the shower scene in Alfred Hitchcock's Psycho scared you, here's another reason to scream: A new study says that potentially disease-causing germs can get trapped in showerheads and grow into biofilm, or coats of slime that deliver a bacteria blast along with your hot water. Although the classic horror film gave legions of moviegoers a fear of showering, the new study shouldn't do the same, experts say. The bacteria probably don't pose a threat to most people, although they could be problematic for those with weakened immune systems. Showerheads are dark, wet, and warm -- the ideal environment for bacteria that cause lung diseases to thrive. As we turn on the faucet to get clean, the showerhead may spray our bodies and the air around us with such opportunistic bugs as Mycobacterium avium and other germs known as non-tuberculosis mycobacteria, according to the new research in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. In fact, levels of these are more than 100-fold higher than levels found in the pre-shower water, according to the researchers, who analyzed the germs in 45 showerheads from nine U.S cities, including New York and Denver. "If you are immune compromised or are susceptible to pulmonary infections, take a bath instead of a shower," says lead researcher Leah M. Feazel, of the University of Colorado, in Boulder. "If you are healthy and your immune system is functioning properly, you should not worry about the germs in your showerhead." Mycobacterium avium, found in 20 percent of study samples, can cause lung infections in both healthy people and those with weakened immune systems, particularly smokers, alcoholics, people with chronic lung disease, and others with conditions that make it difficult to fight off infection. Symptoms include fatigue, a chronic dry cough, and shortness of breath. The good news is that L. pneumophila, the water-loving germ that causes Legionnaires' disease, was rare in the study. Only 3 out of 6,000 genetic sequences tested were L. pneumophila. Legionnaires' disease is a severe type of pneumonia, and outbreaks have been linked to L. pneumophila-contaminated water in large central-air-conditioning systems, whirlpool spas, and other sources of water droplets. "The new study emphasizes the need for us to periodically get rid of biofilm on our showerheads. Change the showerhead once a year or more frequently, like they do in hospitals, to prevent mineral deposits and biofilm.. Metal showerheads appear to be less likely than plastic showerheads to grow biofilm, according to the researchers. “
If after reading the above article you are scared to death of you showerhead you can either change it out (NBS has dozens to choose from) as my blog directs or at least clean your old one up. The easiest way to do that is to purchase a bottle of CLR or similar product, pour it into an old bleach bottle with the top cut off and the handle left intact. Use the handle to tie the bottle onto the shower head rod with the head fully immersed in the cleaner. Not only will that kill any bacteria present it will get rid of lime scale and other hard water stains that are probably making your showerhead not work as well as it should. For more details on installing a new showerhead read my blog at:
http://nationalbuildersupply.blogspot.com/2009/01/how-to-install-new-shower-head-without.html .
Here is an abridged version of the article for your reading pleasure along with my thanks to the news ,media and the author:
“If the shower scene in Alfred Hitchcock's Psycho scared you, here's another reason to scream: A new study says that potentially disease-causing germs can get trapped in showerheads and grow into biofilm, or coats of slime that deliver a bacteria blast along with your hot water. Although the classic horror film gave legions of moviegoers a fear of showering, the new study shouldn't do the same, experts say. The bacteria probably don't pose a threat to most people, although they could be problematic for those with weakened immune systems. Showerheads are dark, wet, and warm -- the ideal environment for bacteria that cause lung diseases to thrive. As we turn on the faucet to get clean, the showerhead may spray our bodies and the air around us with such opportunistic bugs as Mycobacterium avium and other germs known as non-tuberculosis mycobacteria, according to the new research in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. In fact, levels of these are more than 100-fold higher than levels found in the pre-shower water, according to the researchers, who analyzed the germs in 45 showerheads from nine U.S cities, including New York and Denver. "If you are immune compromised or are susceptible to pulmonary infections, take a bath instead of a shower," says lead researcher Leah M. Feazel, of the University of Colorado, in Boulder. "If you are healthy and your immune system is functioning properly, you should not worry about the germs in your showerhead." Mycobacterium avium, found in 20 percent of study samples, can cause lung infections in both healthy people and those with weakened immune systems, particularly smokers, alcoholics, people with chronic lung disease, and others with conditions that make it difficult to fight off infection. Symptoms include fatigue, a chronic dry cough, and shortness of breath. The good news is that L. pneumophila, the water-loving germ that causes Legionnaires' disease, was rare in the study. Only 3 out of 6,000 genetic sequences tested were L. pneumophila. Legionnaires' disease is a severe type of pneumonia, and outbreaks have been linked to L. pneumophila-contaminated water in large central-air-conditioning systems, whirlpool spas, and other sources of water droplets. "The new study emphasizes the need for us to periodically get rid of biofilm on our showerheads. Change the showerhead once a year or more frequently, like they do in hospitals, to prevent mineral deposits and biofilm.. Metal showerheads appear to be less likely than plastic showerheads to grow biofilm, according to the researchers. “
If after reading the above article you are scared to death of you showerhead you can either change it out (NBS has dozens to choose from) as my blog directs or at least clean your old one up. The easiest way to do that is to purchase a bottle of CLR or similar product, pour it into an old bleach bottle with the top cut off and the handle left intact. Use the handle to tie the bottle onto the shower head rod with the head fully immersed in the cleaner. Not only will that kill any bacteria present it will get rid of lime scale and other hard water stains that are probably making your showerhead not work as well as it should. For more details on installing a new showerhead read my blog at:
http://nationalbuildersupply.blogspot.com/2009/01/how-to-install-new-shower-head-without.html .
Monday, September 14, 2009
Changing a Sink Drain
I ran across a simple question over the weekend. Simple means I figured I could answer it…LOL and also thought it was an isolated question until I saw it twice in the same weekend on 2 different forums and no one had answered it. The question was how easy is it to replace the kitchen (or bathroom for that matter) sink drain ring? That’s the ring you see from the top of the sink that your basket strainer fits into. Someone had told the writer that it was a piece of cake to change. I’ve never been good at making cakes, much better at eating them, but I can see how a novice might find it tough to do because of a simple fact. The drain ring isn’t held down by a simple screw thread or ring. The ring does apply the strength to the connection but plumbers putty or some other sealant is there to keep the ring sealed and water tight and this putty can make it feel impossible to remove and if you don’t know the basics you don’t even know the putty is there.
The simple fix is accomplished by loosening the connections to the drain ring under the sink. If you have just a straight drain line into a “p” trap you need only remove whatever is hold the drain down because the drain line is only slipped into the “p” trap so there is nothing to remove nor should you even mess with the trap. If you have a garbage disposal just loosen the pipe from the top of the disposal and do not loosen anything with the disposal. When the ring is free from its screw connection you will have to pry from above or force from below the ring to break it free from the putty. Once you have it free clean all of the old putty away, replace with a new bead of putty and reassemble the ring to the drain line and tighten it down until the putty oozes out evenly around the ring. Clean that excess off, check for leaks under the sink and you’re done. Don’t try to skip the putty and think that you can just tighten it enough to keep it from leaking. You will bend your steel sink, crack the finish on an enameled sink or break the porcelain sink long before the leak would stop. USE THE PUTTY.
The simple fix is accomplished by loosening the connections to the drain ring under the sink. If you have just a straight drain line into a “p” trap you need only remove whatever is hold the drain down because the drain line is only slipped into the “p” trap so there is nothing to remove nor should you even mess with the trap. If you have a garbage disposal just loosen the pipe from the top of the disposal and do not loosen anything with the disposal. When the ring is free from its screw connection you will have to pry from above or force from below the ring to break it free from the putty. Once you have it free clean all of the old putty away, replace with a new bead of putty and reassemble the ring to the drain line and tighten it down until the putty oozes out evenly around the ring. Clean that excess off, check for leaks under the sink and you’re done. Don’t try to skip the putty and think that you can just tighten it enough to keep it from leaking. You will bend your steel sink, crack the finish on an enameled sink or break the porcelain sink long before the leak would stop. USE THE PUTTY.
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Smoke Test for Plumbing Leaks, Anybody know a Plumber who Smokes?
As I have mentioned so many times before the most well read of my blogs and the ones that produce the most comments and questions are the ones about “What is that Smell?”. Face it guys we all are capable of producing some pretty bad smells in the bathroom but a little air freshener and a few minutes that goes away. The kids giggle, your wife complains and maybe the neighbors threaten to move. I Have no wife and the kids are grown so my little dog “Nate” is the victim in my house. If I head for the bathroom he starts running madly around the house and across the furniture. The smell that aggravates us all, though, is the mysterious “sewer” smell that we just cant trace. I have talked about dry “P” traps, iron sulfide from bad anodes in the water heater, bacteria in the well, broken drains outside allowing water to pool against a basement wall and the list goes on and on. But there are still more examples that show up every day on a forum somewhere and some are just down right stubborn. There is one working its way through one of my favorite sites now that we still don’t have the final answer but thought you would like to see the progression and frustration that people go through trying to track the source of an annoying and embarrassing smell.
Here is the initial thread: “ We have a sewer smell from under sink and adjoining closet, but not from drains? We recently moved into a three year old house, which had been vacant for six months. We've started noticing a strong sewer smell from the cabinet beneath one of the bathroom sinks, and also slightly noticeable in the adjoining closet. The smell doesn't appear to be coming from the actual drain (the sink smells fine) and all drains are draining fine. I wiped down the cabinet beneath the sink with a disinfectant and poured some bleach down the drain for good measure, and after a couple of days the smell had gone. Today, the lawn sprinklers ran and it came back very strongly. I haven't yet been able to verify if it's present when it rains. However, our sprinklers use the same water supply as the house, and don't create any kind of sulfurous odor so I'm not positive this isn't just a coincidence. This is a downstairs bathroom, and I don't see any vent connection directly on this pipe beneath the sink. Any suggestions as to how I should go about troubleshooting or fixing this? Im really not looking forward to the prospect of having our house torn apart to track this down since we only just moved in”.
First response: Sounds like you may have a leak in a drain pipe. Is this downstairs bathroom over a crawlspace or basement where you could look around see evidence of a leak?
Thread continues: Unfortunately it's not. As far as I know, the house sits on a one piece concrete slab. This room is against an exterior wall. If it's relevant, the house is wood framed, stucco exterior and is essentially single-storey but with a bonus room and bathroom upstairs. ”
Second response: If there is a floor drain in the bathroom the trap could be dry, also if there is a toilet the seal could be leaking gas but not water unless there is back presure. Resetting it could solve the problem.
Another question: Just to make sure we haven't missed anything simple: Are you sure there isn't a failed AAV/mechanical/cheater vent under the sink? I recently experienced this problem. Before I figured it out it, the smell was worse some days compared to others for reasons I never figured out.
Thread continues: There is one of these in that bathroom but it's under the other sink (two sinks, one on each side of the room). The one with the mechanical vent doesn't smell at all, although I noticed today it drains a bit slower than the one with a 'real' vent. Any way to test these cheater vents? I know if they stick open they will smell horrible, but I'm wondering if this one could be stuck closed or not opening properly.Had some different plumbers out today, the and thought that a joint in the vent pipe right before where it exits the roof was to blame. I'm not totally convinced yet (the joints looked pretty good after it was removed) but it's hard to tell, it's been dry and the smell has almost gone on it's own. I did run that sprinkler zone for an hour today to try and get the smell to come back, but it didn't. So perhaps it's not linked to wet ground after all. I'm desparately hoping this will have solved it and that no slab work is required, but I guess I won't know until it next rains heavily. Thanks for all the advice, it's much appreciated.
The next response: We currently have the same problem and as we recently had a plumber here twice fixing leaks and replacing toilets, I knew it wasn't in the house. I decided it was time to call the City's Public Works Dept. (we're still waiting for them to arrive). One of my neighbors just had a sewer back-up problem and had to move out for a week while floors were ripped out and pipes, flooring etc. were replaced. We have this added coverage on our insurance and hope you do too. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thread continues: Thanks for the info, there's a floor drain in the shower, but it gets regular use (2x a day) so I don't think the trap is dry. We recently had a blocked toiled drain that wasn't solvable by plunging or chemicals, and called a plumber out. There isn't a close by cleanout so he removed the toilet to snake through there. He did fit a new wax gasket to it, and surprisingly the smell is barely noticeable in the water closet, which adjoins the sink cabinet. Some more information: It rained heavily today, and the odor has got worse. It's now noticeable throughout the whole house. I also noticed the ground seemed more damp outside the affected area. I removed a plastic trim/sealing ring from where the sink drain exits the back of the cabinet, and the odor seems to be coming from there. There is a roof vent right above this area, but it appears to be clear. I was able to lower a length of hosepipe into it, and when the toilet is flushed/faucet is run I hear water clearly through it.
Next response: (Are we getting close yet?) Based on the above, is it fairly safe to assume it's a cracked or leaking pipe somewhere in the wall or below the floor? If so, any ideas what should I expect as far as getting it repaired?
And then a break through?: I've pulled out some more fiberglass insulation from the wall behind the sink today, and here's what I saw: (dimensions are approximate)The 2" vent pipe enters an open 4" pipe just above floor level. It's pressed against one side, and has pieces of wood wedging it in place on the other side. There's not very much gap between the inner pipe and the outer pipe, but there is some. I dropped a shop-vac hose down there so it was resting on the lip of the 4" pipe, and turned it on for a couple of seconds. Then I disconnected the hose from the shop vac and could definitely smell the odor from it. Repeated this 3 or 4 times to verify, and got the same result each time. So I'm fairly sure the smell is escaping from the gap where the smaller pipe exits the larger one, which is probably bad. What would my next step be? I know from here on out it could get hideously expensive if they have to start digging up the floor. They've mentioned cameras etc. but I'm wondering if there's any specialist equipment (gas analyzer?) that I should specifically be asking for.
Response: If the 2" vent pipe is vertical and goes into the 4" pipe then it appears you have found your problem. If it were a horizontal run I would expect you would have noticed water leakage. Without a picture (although a good description) I would say you have sewer gases escaping from the gap between the 2" and 4" piping. Depending on what type pipe(s) you have there you should be able to connect the two together with a "Fernco" style coupling that fits each size pipe.
AND
You're saying the 2" and the 4" pipes dont make a solid connection???? Let me get my head to stop spinning.....The 2" enters an open end of the 4" and is just wedged in there? Whomever did that should be beaten severely about the head and shoulders with a dirty sock pulled out of a clogged toilet.
AND
This was the same as my initial reaction to his statement, but I felt he had enough troubles already. "as the home owner stated that he has already had "plumbers" out to investigate this problem and they had not found it, the homeowner found what appears to be the problem. Hopefully the homeowner is an adept DIY and can fit some type of coupling onto these two pipes. I am not recommending this, but at this time duct tape would be an alternative to what he has
Thread continues: Sorry guys, I didn't explain that part very clearly. As best we can tell, the 4" pipe isn't actually 'used' in the drain system, although it appears to be drain pipe it's acting more as a conduit from what I can see. I know the house is built on a concrete slab, although I'm not familiar enough with building practices here to know whether or not all the plumbing is encased in concrete, or whether it sits in the dirt below the slab. If it's the latter, this 4" piece of pipe seems like it's set into the concrete, and the 2" pipe just passes through it. Both pipes are set vertically. At least I hope this is what's going on. The smell has been gradually fading over this past few days, but it hasn't rained at all which could explain it. With that said, the source of the odor did appear to be the gap between the pipes. My hope is that it was just residual but I guess we'll see once it rains heavily again.
Now to find a plumber who smokes? Or maybe one with a can of spray foam?Duct tape?: The quickest way to detect the leak is to smoke test the drain line from just outside your house. I know that sounds like a big deal but it's actually very simple IF you know where your clean-out fitting is outside the house. Any big box hardware store will have the non-toxic smoke packs. You blow the smoke with a small fan into the clean-out fitting (make sure and plug the "downstream" side of the line, and the smoke will show up at any leaks in the vent pipes. The smoke is very dense and will show up if there is a cracked pipe, etc. Just make sure and plug the downstream (or street side) of the drain line before testing. Also, probably unlikely, but you might first call your water/sewer company and see if they will come out and smoke test the line for you. Most places won't but I've encountered some companies will. Yet another opinion: I'm not aware of any "easy" test that you can conduct to confirm a leak. (the smoke test will confirm you have leak somewhere, but not pinpoint it if smoke shows up in that sleeve). A "hard" test would be to isolate the line (somehow plug it on both ends, don't know if that's possible, and probably not practical) and pressure test it with air or water. If it won't hold a constant pressure then you definitely have a leak
Well I guess you can get the picture? Short of breaking concrete, tearing out sheetrock and studs and going through multiple plumbers along with several of us well meaning forum contributors, some smells just can’t be found easily. I suspect the smoke test will show the problem to be a leak in that drain line, The mystery continues and Ill keep you informed as the thread continues.
Here is the initial thread: “ We have a sewer smell from under sink and adjoining closet, but not from drains? We recently moved into a three year old house, which had been vacant for six months. We've started noticing a strong sewer smell from the cabinet beneath one of the bathroom sinks, and also slightly noticeable in the adjoining closet. The smell doesn't appear to be coming from the actual drain (the sink smells fine) and all drains are draining fine. I wiped down the cabinet beneath the sink with a disinfectant and poured some bleach down the drain for good measure, and after a couple of days the smell had gone. Today, the lawn sprinklers ran and it came back very strongly. I haven't yet been able to verify if it's present when it rains. However, our sprinklers use the same water supply as the house, and don't create any kind of sulfurous odor so I'm not positive this isn't just a coincidence. This is a downstairs bathroom, and I don't see any vent connection directly on this pipe beneath the sink. Any suggestions as to how I should go about troubleshooting or fixing this? Im really not looking forward to the prospect of having our house torn apart to track this down since we only just moved in”.
First response: Sounds like you may have a leak in a drain pipe. Is this downstairs bathroom over a crawlspace or basement where you could look around see evidence of a leak?
Thread continues: Unfortunately it's not. As far as I know, the house sits on a one piece concrete slab. This room is against an exterior wall. If it's relevant, the house is wood framed, stucco exterior and is essentially single-storey but with a bonus room and bathroom upstairs. ”
Second response: If there is a floor drain in the bathroom the trap could be dry, also if there is a toilet the seal could be leaking gas but not water unless there is back presure. Resetting it could solve the problem.
Another question: Just to make sure we haven't missed anything simple: Are you sure there isn't a failed AAV/mechanical/cheater vent under the sink? I recently experienced this problem. Before I figured it out it, the smell was worse some days compared to others for reasons I never figured out.
Thread continues: There is one of these in that bathroom but it's under the other sink (two sinks, one on each side of the room). The one with the mechanical vent doesn't smell at all, although I noticed today it drains a bit slower than the one with a 'real' vent. Any way to test these cheater vents? I know if they stick open they will smell horrible, but I'm wondering if this one could be stuck closed or not opening properly.Had some different plumbers out today, the and thought that a joint in the vent pipe right before where it exits the roof was to blame. I'm not totally convinced yet (the joints looked pretty good after it was removed) but it's hard to tell, it's been dry and the smell has almost gone on it's own. I did run that sprinkler zone for an hour today to try and get the smell to come back, but it didn't. So perhaps it's not linked to wet ground after all. I'm desparately hoping this will have solved it and that no slab work is required, but I guess I won't know until it next rains heavily. Thanks for all the advice, it's much appreciated.
The next response: We currently have the same problem and as we recently had a plumber here twice fixing leaks and replacing toilets, I knew it wasn't in the house. I decided it was time to call the City's Public Works Dept. (we're still waiting for them to arrive). One of my neighbors just had a sewer back-up problem and had to move out for a week while floors were ripped out and pipes, flooring etc. were replaced. We have this added coverage on our insurance and hope you do too. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thread continues: Thanks for the info, there's a floor drain in the shower, but it gets regular use (2x a day) so I don't think the trap is dry. We recently had a blocked toiled drain that wasn't solvable by plunging or chemicals, and called a plumber out. There isn't a close by cleanout so he removed the toilet to snake through there. He did fit a new wax gasket to it, and surprisingly the smell is barely noticeable in the water closet, which adjoins the sink cabinet. Some more information: It rained heavily today, and the odor has got worse. It's now noticeable throughout the whole house. I also noticed the ground seemed more damp outside the affected area. I removed a plastic trim/sealing ring from where the sink drain exits the back of the cabinet, and the odor seems to be coming from there. There is a roof vent right above this area, but it appears to be clear. I was able to lower a length of hosepipe into it, and when the toilet is flushed/faucet is run I hear water clearly through it.
Next response: (Are we getting close yet?) Based on the above, is it fairly safe to assume it's a cracked or leaking pipe somewhere in the wall or below the floor? If so, any ideas what should I expect as far as getting it repaired?
And then a break through?: I've pulled out some more fiberglass insulation from the wall behind the sink today, and here's what I saw: (dimensions are approximate)The 2" vent pipe enters an open 4" pipe just above floor level. It's pressed against one side, and has pieces of wood wedging it in place on the other side. There's not very much gap between the inner pipe and the outer pipe, but there is some. I dropped a shop-vac hose down there so it was resting on the lip of the 4" pipe, and turned it on for a couple of seconds. Then I disconnected the hose from the shop vac and could definitely smell the odor from it. Repeated this 3 or 4 times to verify, and got the same result each time. So I'm fairly sure the smell is escaping from the gap where the smaller pipe exits the larger one, which is probably bad. What would my next step be? I know from here on out it could get hideously expensive if they have to start digging up the floor. They've mentioned cameras etc. but I'm wondering if there's any specialist equipment (gas analyzer?) that I should specifically be asking for.
Response: If the 2" vent pipe is vertical and goes into the 4" pipe then it appears you have found your problem. If it were a horizontal run I would expect you would have noticed water leakage. Without a picture (although a good description) I would say you have sewer gases escaping from the gap between the 2" and 4" piping. Depending on what type pipe(s) you have there you should be able to connect the two together with a "Fernco" style coupling that fits each size pipe.
AND
You're saying the 2" and the 4" pipes dont make a solid connection???? Let me get my head to stop spinning.....The 2" enters an open end of the 4" and is just wedged in there? Whomever did that should be beaten severely about the head and shoulders with a dirty sock pulled out of a clogged toilet.
AND
This was the same as my initial reaction to his statement, but I felt he had enough troubles already. "as the home owner stated that he has already had "plumbers" out to investigate this problem and they had not found it, the homeowner found what appears to be the problem. Hopefully the homeowner is an adept DIY and can fit some type of coupling onto these two pipes. I am not recommending this, but at this time duct tape would be an alternative to what he has
Thread continues: Sorry guys, I didn't explain that part very clearly. As best we can tell, the 4" pipe isn't actually 'used' in the drain system, although it appears to be drain pipe it's acting more as a conduit from what I can see. I know the house is built on a concrete slab, although I'm not familiar enough with building practices here to know whether or not all the plumbing is encased in concrete, or whether it sits in the dirt below the slab. If it's the latter, this 4" piece of pipe seems like it's set into the concrete, and the 2" pipe just passes through it. Both pipes are set vertically. At least I hope this is what's going on. The smell has been gradually fading over this past few days, but it hasn't rained at all which could explain it. With that said, the source of the odor did appear to be the gap between the pipes. My hope is that it was just residual but I guess we'll see once it rains heavily again.
Now to find a plumber who smokes? Or maybe one with a can of spray foam?Duct tape?: The quickest way to detect the leak is to smoke test the drain line from just outside your house. I know that sounds like a big deal but it's actually very simple IF you know where your clean-out fitting is outside the house. Any big box hardware store will have the non-toxic smoke packs. You blow the smoke with a small fan into the clean-out fitting (make sure and plug the "downstream" side of the line, and the smoke will show up at any leaks in the vent pipes. The smoke is very dense and will show up if there is a cracked pipe, etc. Just make sure and plug the downstream (or street side) of the drain line before testing. Also, probably unlikely, but you might first call your water/sewer company and see if they will come out and smoke test the line for you. Most places won't but I've encountered some companies will. Yet another opinion: I'm not aware of any "easy" test that you can conduct to confirm a leak. (the smoke test will confirm you have leak somewhere, but not pinpoint it if smoke shows up in that sleeve). A "hard" test would be to isolate the line (somehow plug it on both ends, don't know if that's possible, and probably not practical) and pressure test it with air or water. If it won't hold a constant pressure then you definitely have a leak
Well I guess you can get the picture? Short of breaking concrete, tearing out sheetrock and studs and going through multiple plumbers along with several of us well meaning forum contributors, some smells just can’t be found easily. I suspect the smoke test will show the problem to be a leak in that drain line, The mystery continues and Ill keep you informed as the thread continues.
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Major Brand Customer Service
I wrote a blog a few weeks ago about a forum thread where the questioner was seeking a part for an ancient Moen shower. I advised the writer to call Moen’s customer service department for help because years ago Moen upped the ante in the fixture business buy instituting their “lifetime warranty” policy. I went on to blog about and include excerpts from their warranty. This policy from Moen has literally forced their competition to match the deal and many have so the next time you have a problem with a faucet or fixture of any kind think warranty. If you had a car problem the first thing you would think is to ask the manufacturer for help and plumbing fixtures are no exception. I have read many examples of companies sending entire replacement units when parts for an older model could not be found.
Here is a list of the toll free numbers for the brands that National Builder Supply carry:
Toto- 1-888-295-8134
Danze Customer Service- 1-877-530-3344
Price Pfister- 1-800-732-8238
Moen- 1-800-289-6636
Grohe- 1-800-444-7643
Matco-Norca- 1-800-443-7526
Delta 1-800-345-3358
Houzer 1-800-880-3639
If your brand isn’t there simply “Google” the brand and look for the “contact us” segment of their web site. Business is tough for all of us these days and customer service is the buzz word. Give them the chance or the challenge to help you with your problem before you rush out and start spending money on replacement parts or before replacing an old fixture.
While we’re on the subject of customer service it is the key to success at NBS so if you are looking to replace or add a new faucet or fixture give them a call at (866) 355-0310.
Did you know they also have Progress lighting fixtures and a full line of beautiful furniture quality bathroom vanities?
Here is a list of the toll free numbers for the brands that National Builder Supply carry:
Toto- 1-888-295-8134
Danze Customer Service- 1-877-530-3344
Price Pfister- 1-800-732-8238
Moen- 1-800-289-6636
Grohe- 1-800-444-7643
Matco-Norca- 1-800-443-7526
Delta 1-800-345-3358
Houzer 1-800-880-3639
If your brand isn’t there simply “Google” the brand and look for the “contact us” segment of their web site. Business is tough for all of us these days and customer service is the buzz word. Give them the chance or the challenge to help you with your problem before you rush out and start spending money on replacement parts or before replacing an old fixture.
While we’re on the subject of customer service it is the key to success at NBS so if you are looking to replace or add a new faucet or fixture give them a call at (866) 355-0310.
Did you know they also have Progress lighting fixtures and a full line of beautiful furniture quality bathroom vanities?
Monday, September 7, 2009
More on Handicap Access and the ADA
In 1990 the United States enacted legislation (The Americans with Disabilities Act) to protect the rights of the disabled in the work place and regarding adequate public access. I have to admit when this law came down, looking at it as a businessman, I thought that it was just another governmental intrusion in our lives and an reasonable expense to businesses. It should be noted, though, that the employment part of the law only applies to businesses with 15 or more employees and should not place an unreasonable burden on businesses. Now that the law has been in effect for almost 20 years we take for granted handicap parking spaces, better public restrooms with handicap access, ramps at curbs, wider entrance doors and a myriad of other things I have become so much of our day to day life that they are invisible. As a disabled person, now, myself I no longer think of these things as unreasonable nor as invisible. In order to continue any semblance of a normal life these things are a necessity to me every day. I have to hope for a close or handicap space in a parking lot, can only shop on my own in stores that furnish the little electric scooters and the idea of having to answer the call of nature away from home would be virtually impossible without restrooms with ADA height toilets and grab bars. But I received a great letter the other day , in response to one of my blogs published in Articles.Com, that reminded me that there is still more work to be done, more places that need to be adapted so that people with disabilities can enjoy some of the same things as everyone else. Here is the letter I received. I have removed specific info regarding the state involved , for the time being.
“A very interesting and useful article. It caused me to think about something I have been pondering for some time. I am a Park Ranger and I have a project in mind that needs a little more ADA knowledge than I possess. At my park we have four cabins of about 900 sq.ft. I am interested in taking one of them and making it fully handicapped accessible - entry, kitchen, bathroom, bedroom, etc. (at the same time, I want to vastly increase its energy efficiency.) My problems are: 1/ I need to know how each room can be improved, and 2/ I don't have any money. Ultimately, if I can figure out how to locate funding, I would like to make the cabin an ADA/Energy Efficiency showplace for the whole state park system, at the minimum. Certainly, I would love to have all four of our cabins meet the same standards, but that's down the road a ways. I would be satisfied if the idea could spread throughout our whole park system.”
My answer was as follows:
“As you may know I am disabled, myself, thus my interest in ADA efficiency as well as being enthused with your idea. I would have thought that you could get funding from your governing source or maybe tap some "stimulus funds". If those are not available then I would be pleased to try to help in some way. Why don't we start by trying to see what it would take construction wise then financially to make it happen. I would suggest you seek out a local architect to draw up some plans and to assist in the costing on a pro bono basis. If you then have a target amount of cost we could work towards getting donations, corporate sponsors or individuals to assist. You would be surprised at how much assistance you can get locally from sources just by asking. Volunteer to speak at local business meetings, Jaycees, Lion’s Clubs , etc. Get your local newspaper involved, churches, radio stations, TV stations etc. Lastly the sponsor of my blog site is National Builder Supply, although I can’t speak for them, their owner is a great young man that might assist by donating some of the plumbing equipment. I don't mind asking when you have your ducks in a row. To further this type of involvement from businesses you would offer a “donations” plaque on the cabin thanking those folks who donated or assisted in the conversion. With some more info about you park and how many more people could use the facilities annually I would also be pleased to use your letter, my answer and other info on one of my daily blogs to see if we can generate some interest.”Obviously the more I thought about the more I wanted to help and additionally to encourage folks to look around your community for places that may have slipped through the cracks and may still need some fundamental help in allowing access to those who have difficulties getting around. Something as simple as deficiencies at your local ball park may be keeping a parent or grandparent from being able to attend a game for a child. If you see a problem see what you can do to offer a fix for it.
“A very interesting and useful article. It caused me to think about something I have been pondering for some time. I am a Park Ranger and I have a project in mind that needs a little more ADA knowledge than I possess. At my park we have four cabins of about 900 sq.ft. I am interested in taking one of them and making it fully handicapped accessible - entry, kitchen, bathroom, bedroom, etc. (at the same time, I want to vastly increase its energy efficiency.) My problems are: 1/ I need to know how each room can be improved, and 2/ I don't have any money. Ultimately, if I can figure out how to locate funding, I would like to make the cabin an ADA/Energy Efficiency showplace for the whole state park system, at the minimum. Certainly, I would love to have all four of our cabins meet the same standards, but that's down the road a ways. I would be satisfied if the idea could spread throughout our whole park system.”
My answer was as follows:
“As you may know I am disabled, myself, thus my interest in ADA efficiency as well as being enthused with your idea. I would have thought that you could get funding from your governing source or maybe tap some "stimulus funds". If those are not available then I would be pleased to try to help in some way. Why don't we start by trying to see what it would take construction wise then financially to make it happen. I would suggest you seek out a local architect to draw up some plans and to assist in the costing on a pro bono basis. If you then have a target amount of cost we could work towards getting donations, corporate sponsors or individuals to assist. You would be surprised at how much assistance you can get locally from sources just by asking. Volunteer to speak at local business meetings, Jaycees, Lion’s Clubs , etc. Get your local newspaper involved, churches, radio stations, TV stations etc. Lastly the sponsor of my blog site is National Builder Supply, although I can’t speak for them, their owner is a great young man that might assist by donating some of the plumbing equipment. I don't mind asking when you have your ducks in a row. To further this type of involvement from businesses you would offer a “donations” plaque on the cabin thanking those folks who donated or assisted in the conversion. With some more info about you park and how many more people could use the facilities annually I would also be pleased to use your letter, my answer and other info on one of my daily blogs to see if we can generate some interest.”Obviously the more I thought about the more I wanted to help and additionally to encourage folks to look around your community for places that may have slipped through the cracks and may still need some fundamental help in allowing access to those who have difficulties getting around. Something as simple as deficiencies at your local ball park may be keeping a parent or grandparent from being able to attend a game for a child. If you see a problem see what you can do to offer a fix for it.
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Replacing Bathroom Subfloor and maybe get yourself a new Toilet
I see many questions and discussions about replacing toilets and/or the sub floor in bathrooms. Bathroom floors are probably the worst areas in the home for rot potential in the sub floor. BTW for the uninitiated the sub floor is the material, usually plywood, which forms the actual floor of your home if it is constructed with a wooden floor truss system (as opposed to a concrete slab) or the floor that spans the trusses for multiple story homes of wooden construction. The sub floor, in better homes, is usually 3/4” plywood or OSB(oriented strand board) but some homes of cheaper construction may use a smaller thickness plywood or OSB or even some form of “masonite” type board. As I said the bathroom is the usual place where this sub floor fails due to simple rot caused by an abundance of moisture, usually under a long leaking toilet, the vinyl flooring has begun to come unglued or if you have ceramic bath tile the grout is allowing water from the tub or shower area to seep through. The homeowner usually isn’t aware of the problem until either a leak appears in an are below the bathroom or maybe you sit down on the toilet and feel that is unstable (rocking) or you feel a soft or bouncing feeling to the floor. Now comes the solution. The floor must be torn out and replaced from the sub floor up. Not an easy or inexpensive fix but it does have to be done and look at as an opportunity to make Momma happy with a new floor surface and to make yourself happy with that new “comfort height” Toto toilet that your neighbor has that you have been coveting. Don’t panic, the commandment says not to covet your neighbors ass not his Toto toilet. The following is a brief discussion group thread that briefly discusses the replacement of the subfloor and the common problems which arise and the answers:
Q: "Looks like I'm ripping the sub floor from the Bathroom up. The toilet Drain is on top of 1/4 Plywood (remember I said the sub floor should have been 3/4” at best). Do I remove the toilet drain and then place it back on top of the ¾” floor +concrete board (that’s the board used when you are installing ceramic tile, it provides a more stable surface) + tile or do I remove all the old 1/4 and install my 3/4 and use a few wax wings to set the toilet back now? This would keep me from having to remove the drain. I was looking and they want $20 for a new Toilet Drain comes in 3" or 4". What does a average toilet use. "
A: "The toilet flange should sit flush on top of the finished floor level with only the thickness of the flange above the finished floor level. It should be bolted securely to the floor.Then the toilet will seal properly with one wax ring as intended. Do not stack wax rings (or more than two anyway), because you run the risk of squeezing the wax into the pipe and clogging it when you anchor the toilet back down. You need to look at the size of YOUR drain (aka closet bend drain pipe) to determine what size flange that you need...usually 3" but could be 4".
In addition, it is important to rebuild the floor under the toilet because a leaking closet flange probably rotted the original floor. The 1/4" flooring is entirely too thin to be supportive. Ideally, you should peel the existing flooring back to the floor joists, raise the closet flange to the finish floor height by cutting into the vertical sewer drain below the floor and extending it the proper amount, replace the subfloor with 3/4" plywood, install the new finish flooring, and reset the toilet. Don't use more than one wax ring. If you find that you have to, something isn't right."
There was great info for the solution, kudos to the guys that provided the answer. The things to take away are 1/4” plywood or anything else is WAY TOO THIN for sub floor. Don’t take short cuts in repairing and replacing the toilet, drain and flange. Lastly avoid the temptation to use more than 2 wax seating rings to deal the toilet to the flange. You cannot imagine how many discussion group questions Ive seen where someone has installed a new toilet and had it immediately overflow everywhere because the excess wax rings had fallen down into the drain and completely occluded the drain line. By the way they immediately try to fault the manufacturer of the toilet….”the damn thing must be defective”!
Q: "Looks like I'm ripping the sub floor from the Bathroom up. The toilet Drain is on top of 1/4 Plywood (remember I said the sub floor should have been 3/4” at best). Do I remove the toilet drain and then place it back on top of the ¾” floor +concrete board (that’s the board used when you are installing ceramic tile, it provides a more stable surface) + tile or do I remove all the old 1/4 and install my 3/4 and use a few wax wings to set the toilet back now? This would keep me from having to remove the drain. I was looking and they want $20 for a new Toilet Drain comes in 3" or 4". What does a average toilet use. "
A: "The toilet flange should sit flush on top of the finished floor level with only the thickness of the flange above the finished floor level. It should be bolted securely to the floor.Then the toilet will seal properly with one wax ring as intended. Do not stack wax rings (or more than two anyway), because you run the risk of squeezing the wax into the pipe and clogging it when you anchor the toilet back down. You need to look at the size of YOUR drain (aka closet bend drain pipe) to determine what size flange that you need...usually 3" but could be 4".
In addition, it is important to rebuild the floor under the toilet because a leaking closet flange probably rotted the original floor. The 1/4" flooring is entirely too thin to be supportive. Ideally, you should peel the existing flooring back to the floor joists, raise the closet flange to the finish floor height by cutting into the vertical sewer drain below the floor and extending it the proper amount, replace the subfloor with 3/4" plywood, install the new finish flooring, and reset the toilet. Don't use more than one wax ring. If you find that you have to, something isn't right."
There was great info for the solution, kudos to the guys that provided the answer. The things to take away are 1/4” plywood or anything else is WAY TOO THIN for sub floor. Don’t take short cuts in repairing and replacing the toilet, drain and flange. Lastly avoid the temptation to use more than 2 wax seating rings to deal the toilet to the flange. You cannot imagine how many discussion group questions Ive seen where someone has installed a new toilet and had it immediately overflow everywhere because the excess wax rings had fallen down into the drain and completely occluded the drain line. By the way they immediately try to fault the manufacturer of the toilet….”the damn thing must be defective”!
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
Let's Play...WHATS THAT STINK?
As most of you know I make my email address (faucetman886@gmail.com) available to anyone that reads my blog, published articles or comments on discussion rooms and forums. Why? Because I do this to help folks and to learn. With my email address available to anyone I get some interesting feedback as well as direct questions from readers.
With the popularity of my “what’s that smell?” blogs (there are at least four in circulation) they seem to evoke the most comments and questions such as the one below that I got this week:
Q: ”I have that stinky problem you were describing. It's in all of the bathrooms, the laundry room and the kitchen. To me it smells like a wet, soiled rag has been sitting around in each of those rooms for a week. Our house is only 12 years old. We tend to have problems with our washer. It's a High Efficiency, but every once in a while when I start a load, I come back in an hour and it hasn't even squirted water into the machine. It seems to have done everything else, but no water. It also does this thing where it says it's too sudsy, so it just sits there and doesn't rinse and drain. Now, I don't know if this has anything to do with our stink problem, but I figure I better give you as much info. as possible. Also, we're on City sewer. In your article you explained that it may have something to do with the "p" pipe not being filled with water. Do I need to go around and open every pipe up in the house? And how do I do that? Especially the pipe behind the washer, because I think ours is probably behind the wall too.”
A: “Probably not a "p" trap problem, that tends to be localized. Just a guess could be either your water heater or if you are on a well your well could be contaminated with a iron bacteria that makes the water smell and thickens the water. This would cause your washing machine to malfunction as you describe have you noticed a black or grayish tinge to your water or white clothes or blackish stains in your toilets or sinks? If so that could be the problem and you would need to decontaminate the well with a chemical treatment.
More than likely though is the water heater. After about 8 years +/- the anodes in the water heater. These are aluminum and are made to attract iron particles and slowly disintegrate and produce iron sulfate in your hot water. This then causes your hot water to have a sulfur like smell. In either case the hot water heater needs to be drained and cleaned out and the anodes replaced. If the well is the problem you would have to decontaminate the hot water heater of the black fungus through basically the same procedure. If the hot water heater has sludge in it the water would smell and it would also cause the problem with your washer because of the sludge in suspension in your water.
Start by running a sink of all hot water and see if it smells badly. Then do the same with just cold water. If the hot water is the only thing that smells then it’s probably just the HWH. If the cold water smells also then you have a supply problem. I hope this helps and please let me know the outcome.”
With the popularity of my “what’s that smell?” blogs (there are at least four in circulation) they seem to evoke the most comments and questions such as the one below that I got this week:
Q: ”I have that stinky problem you were describing. It's in all of the bathrooms, the laundry room and the kitchen. To me it smells like a wet, soiled rag has been sitting around in each of those rooms for a week. Our house is only 12 years old. We tend to have problems with our washer. It's a High Efficiency, but every once in a while when I start a load, I come back in an hour and it hasn't even squirted water into the machine. It seems to have done everything else, but no water. It also does this thing where it says it's too sudsy, so it just sits there and doesn't rinse and drain. Now, I don't know if this has anything to do with our stink problem, but I figure I better give you as much info. as possible. Also, we're on City sewer. In your article you explained that it may have something to do with the "p" pipe not being filled with water. Do I need to go around and open every pipe up in the house? And how do I do that? Especially the pipe behind the washer, because I think ours is probably behind the wall too.”
A: “Probably not a "p" trap problem, that tends to be localized. Just a guess could be either your water heater or if you are on a well your well could be contaminated with a iron bacteria that makes the water smell and thickens the water. This would cause your washing machine to malfunction as you describe have you noticed a black or grayish tinge to your water or white clothes or blackish stains in your toilets or sinks? If so that could be the problem and you would need to decontaminate the well with a chemical treatment.
More than likely though is the water heater. After about 8 years +/- the anodes in the water heater. These are aluminum and are made to attract iron particles and slowly disintegrate and produce iron sulfate in your hot water. This then causes your hot water to have a sulfur like smell. In either case the hot water heater needs to be drained and cleaned out and the anodes replaced. If the well is the problem you would have to decontaminate the hot water heater of the black fungus through basically the same procedure. If the hot water heater has sludge in it the water would smell and it would also cause the problem with your washer because of the sludge in suspension in your water.
Start by running a sink of all hot water and see if it smells badly. Then do the same with just cold water. If the hot water is the only thing that smells then it’s probably just the HWH. If the cold water smells also then you have a supply problem. I hope this helps and please let me know the outcome.”
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