Over this past weekend, doing my favorite pastime, reading DIY chat rooms, I ran across one of those unusual DIY problems that make you scratch your head and say “what do I do now?” It went something like this:
“With my luck, I knocked over a can of hairspray after I flushed the toilet. The cap of the bottle fell straight into the toilet and in a split second was gone. The maintenance guy in my building tried to get it out. He said he used an auger and a snake. I just can't believe that a plastic cap would get so wedged into the toilet that it won't come out. Should I believe that he tried his best and get a new toilet and just try it myself? Anybody have tips and/or tricks that might help me out? I would call a professional plumber but that's about $150 just for the drain clean and then another $100 for the toilet install if I need to get a new one plus the toilet. Another thing, if I were to do it myself, are the bolts that hold the toilet in place replaceable without replacing the closet flange? I think the maintenance guy bent one of the bolts when he put the toilet back in place.
Well I’ve never dropped a hairspray can lid in the toilet, not enough hair to need the stuff, but I am the father of 3 sons and 1 grandson who kept me busy for years rescuing things from the toilet, flushing unbearable things down the toilet and of course I have conducted more gold fish funerals in the toilet than I care to remember. You haven’t lived until you’ve had to rescue a mad and very scared cat from the toilet as a result of one well meaning child who was “just giving the cat a bath”. With these thoughts in mind I felt that I was talented enough to help this poor guy out and so I answered the following:
“I suspect that the cap did not go far because the "s" shaped trap wouldn't normally let something that hard go past but the maintenance man has probably done a good job of jamming it in there good. There is a good possibility that if the toilet were drained and unbolted from the flange so that you could access the hairspray cap from the other direction and that you might be able to push it back out. I would hate to think that you would have to replace the entire toilet. As to the flange bolts they are replaceable and many times a good plumber will replace the old ones when he puts in a new toilet or reinstalls an old one. The most important part of reinstallation is getting a good seal back on the flange with a new wax ring. Hope this helps or maybe one of our pros here online will have an even better idea.
Well before I sat down to write this I checked back and no one else had come up with a better idea so I guess mine works. So if your kids rubber ducky disappears and you find an inordinate amount of water in the bathroom floor don’t even bother asking the kid…THEY LIE!. Check the toilet and fast before someone sits down and let’s say “complicates” the matter further by adding something else to the mix.
As an afterthought while thinking of my boys I was reminded if the analogy that girls are much easier to raise than boys. Why? Because you can sit a little girl in the floor with a pile of toys and she will stay there for hours and play. You sit a little boy in a pile of toys and he will crawl to the nearest electrical outlet and try to shove something into it.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
Thursday, August 27, 2009
How do I Sell My Home?
On Wednesday blog I talked about the upsurge in the housing market and tried to encourage folks to get out and take advantage of the Governments down payment assistance program. The flip side of this and what I’d like to talk about today is for those of you who have been trying to sell a home for many months. If homes are selling now is the time to take actions to make your home as saleable as possible. Yes there are many foreclosed houses out there that are driving the market and are putting out some considerable competition to you selling you home. With this in mind you need to make your house competitive. When I got sick and could no longer work, back about 3 years ago, and knew that I wasn’t going to be able to keep my much loved home I studied at, great length, all of the opinions from the real estate experts. Watched all the television shows that promised to make you house sell and then set out to make some changes to my house so that I could sell it more easily. This was a year or more before the mortgage collapse and the dearth of foreclosures but the market was really beginning to get tough. I did the following things that I suggest for you depending on your budget or lack thereof:
1. I got rid of all of the extra furniture. This opened up the house and made it look larger. As an example I had a coffee table in the living room which was a tight fit. I gave it away. Had an extra chair in the living room which we always seemed to need during family gatherings but sat used 90% of the time. Take a look at your entire house and see what you could get rid of to open your rooms up. Cost $0…..if you have a garage sale it can add to your decorating budget.
2. Go through the house and remove all of the person pictures, plaques, awards etc. I originally thought that not only did I enjoy looking at pictures of my children and my “Father of the Year” awards but thought that it made the house look lived in and loved. I was quickly told by my real estate person that people want to be able to see walls and picture their own families there not yours.
3. Get rid of those dusty silk or plastic plants. If youre having an open house use fresh flowers or alive plants to dress up the place.
4. You may love those lavender walls in your bedroom but its not likely that a prospective buyer will be as fond of lavender. The same thing about that orange wall left over from the 1980’s. Invest a few dollars and a weekend in painting all offending surfaces in a warm neutral color, NOT WHITE.
5. CLEAN THE HOUSE
6. CLEAN THE YARD, especially the front door area. Curb appeal is a major factor. I can tell you from personal experience when I was a buyer not a seller I have many times told my real estate agent to just keep on driving when I got a look at our next proposed appointment because of what I could see from the curb. Got dead plants in the yard? Afraid that if you mowed the lawn you might find 3 old cars? Then its time to cut the grass. Plant a few blooming plants and paint the front door. Put down a nice fresh door mat. Fix that door bell that hasn’t worked in years.
7. If you have dark drapes or blinds on the windows take them off and if you feel the need for some sort of window covering use gathered white sheets or shear white panels.
8. In the bathroom, simple things like a new shower curtain, candles nice towels and if you did well with the garage sale replace the old grungy faucet with a new one. My friends at NBS can help.
9. Wall paper is out. If you have it in the bathroom, kitchen or anywhere else, get rid of it.
10. Carpets stained? Rent a carpet shampooer for the weekend. Worn out replace it or cover it with an accent rug.
11. In the kitchen get rid of anything sitting on the counters. Change out the faucet if the one you have is old. Put everything out of sight. No toaster, mixer, blender or martini set sitting around. This will make the kitchen look larger and make the work space look bigger and easier top work in. take the refrigerator magnets off the refrigerator. Think about freshening up the cabinets with paint and new hardware. Curtains? Take them down. Again fresh flowers or a potted plant.
12. Clean out the garage. If you have to rent a storage shed get rid of everything on the garage that is preventing it from being used as a garage.
13. Got a half finished basement that you’ve been working on for years? Lock the basement door or finish the damn thing, at least clean it out and up and send those things to the storage shed too. When you get in your new home you will soon realize you don’t need any of the stuff that was in the basement or the garage and can buy marshmallows and have a roast.
14. If you have pets board them and get rid of all the signs of them, smell, fur, litter boxes. Food bowls etc at least when you’re having an open house.
15. Got kids? Board them…LOL Well how about send them to Grandma’s? You’ll be surprised at how little you miss them after a while. They’re going to grow up someday and move away. Just consider this as practice. At least get the toys up off the floor and the crayon marks off the walls.
16. Last but maybe most importantly, bake cookies. Keep the smell of fresh baked cookies in the house and a plate full to offer to visitors.
The list can go on and on but it’s mostly common sense and nothing that I have mentioned here involve any great cost, just time and labor. The competition is tough and you have to make your home stand out against the wrecked, trashed foreclosure down the street and you only have a brief moment of a prospective buyers time to convince them that your home is the one.
1. I got rid of all of the extra furniture. This opened up the house and made it look larger. As an example I had a coffee table in the living room which was a tight fit. I gave it away. Had an extra chair in the living room which we always seemed to need during family gatherings but sat used 90% of the time. Take a look at your entire house and see what you could get rid of to open your rooms up. Cost $0…..if you have a garage sale it can add to your decorating budget.
2. Go through the house and remove all of the person pictures, plaques, awards etc. I originally thought that not only did I enjoy looking at pictures of my children and my “Father of the Year” awards but thought that it made the house look lived in and loved. I was quickly told by my real estate person that people want to be able to see walls and picture their own families there not yours.
3. Get rid of those dusty silk or plastic plants. If youre having an open house use fresh flowers or alive plants to dress up the place.
4. You may love those lavender walls in your bedroom but its not likely that a prospective buyer will be as fond of lavender. The same thing about that orange wall left over from the 1980’s. Invest a few dollars and a weekend in painting all offending surfaces in a warm neutral color, NOT WHITE.
5. CLEAN THE HOUSE
6. CLEAN THE YARD, especially the front door area. Curb appeal is a major factor. I can tell you from personal experience when I was a buyer not a seller I have many times told my real estate agent to just keep on driving when I got a look at our next proposed appointment because of what I could see from the curb. Got dead plants in the yard? Afraid that if you mowed the lawn you might find 3 old cars? Then its time to cut the grass. Plant a few blooming plants and paint the front door. Put down a nice fresh door mat. Fix that door bell that hasn’t worked in years.
7. If you have dark drapes or blinds on the windows take them off and if you feel the need for some sort of window covering use gathered white sheets or shear white panels.
8. In the bathroom, simple things like a new shower curtain, candles nice towels and if you did well with the garage sale replace the old grungy faucet with a new one. My friends at NBS can help.
9. Wall paper is out. If you have it in the bathroom, kitchen or anywhere else, get rid of it.
10. Carpets stained? Rent a carpet shampooer for the weekend. Worn out replace it or cover it with an accent rug.
11. In the kitchen get rid of anything sitting on the counters. Change out the faucet if the one you have is old. Put everything out of sight. No toaster, mixer, blender or martini set sitting around. This will make the kitchen look larger and make the work space look bigger and easier top work in. take the refrigerator magnets off the refrigerator. Think about freshening up the cabinets with paint and new hardware. Curtains? Take them down. Again fresh flowers or a potted plant.
12. Clean out the garage. If you have to rent a storage shed get rid of everything on the garage that is preventing it from being used as a garage.
13. Got a half finished basement that you’ve been working on for years? Lock the basement door or finish the damn thing, at least clean it out and up and send those things to the storage shed too. When you get in your new home you will soon realize you don’t need any of the stuff that was in the basement or the garage and can buy marshmallows and have a roast.
14. If you have pets board them and get rid of all the signs of them, smell, fur, litter boxes. Food bowls etc at least when you’re having an open house.
15. Got kids? Board them…LOL Well how about send them to Grandma’s? You’ll be surprised at how little you miss them after a while. They’re going to grow up someday and move away. Just consider this as practice. At least get the toys up off the floor and the crayon marks off the walls.
16. Last but maybe most importantly, bake cookies. Keep the smell of fresh baked cookies in the house and a plate full to offer to visitors.
The list can go on and on but it’s mostly common sense and nothing that I have mentioned here involve any great cost, just time and labor. The competition is tough and you have to make your home stand out against the wrecked, trashed foreclosure down the street and you only have a brief moment of a prospective buyers time to convince them that your home is the one.
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Is Now is the Time to Buy a Home?
Well the “Cash for Clunkers” program is over but there is still time to take advantage of another of the Obama stimulus programs. This other program, we’ll call it “Money for Mortgages”, offers a cash assistance of up to $8000 for a first time home buyer, as defined by the IRS, but this program ends December 1, 2009 and all of your paper work must be completed by November 1, 2009.
The news of the day is that for the home prices have increased. Prices were up quarter over quarter for the first time in three years, according to the latest S+P/Case-Shiller data. The 20-city index rose 1.4 percent from May to June. Although down 15.4 percent since the previous June, this is an improvement from -19.1 percent in the first quarter. Cleveland, San Francisco and Minneapolis had the strongest performances from May to June, up more than 3 percent each. The only cities that declined in June were Las Vegas and Detroit. The Case-Shiller home price indices are calculated on a monthly basis with a two month lag time and published on the last Tuesday of every month. Economists Karl Case, Robert Shiller and Allan Weiss developed an approach to calculate the indices from data on repeat sales of single family homes. The data published from these Case-Shiller home value indices typically covers the 20 Metropolitan Statistical Areas used by Standard and Poors in the S&P/Case Shiller Home Price Index.
The dynamics of the housing market may seem to have a language of their own -- median value, appreciation -- it's hard to know where to start. It's a great time for buyers who waited patiently for prices to come down. Why continue to rent when you can buy for 10 or 20 percent less than you would have paid a few years ago? For sellers, it could be time to consider trading up.
There are a lot of questions that you should have regarding this program and I am limited to the amount of space I have here nor time that you should take to make sure you have all of the answers, the following website offers the answers to most of these FAQ’s:
http://www.federalhousingtaxcredit.com/2009/faq.php
The long and short of the program are as follows:
· the tax credit is for first-time home buyers only. For the tax credit program, the IRS defines a first-time home buyer as someone who has not owned a principal residence during the three-year period prior to the purchase.
· The tax credit does not have to be repaid.
· The tax credit is equal to 10 percent of the home’s purchase price up to a maximum of $8,000.
· The credit is available for homes purchased on or after January 1, 2009 and before December 1, 2009.
· Single taxpayers with incomes up to $75,000 and married couples with incomes up to $150,000 qualify for the full tax credit.
I believe that now is the time to step into the market and claim your share of the housing deals of today whether or not you are a first time buyer. With or without the $8000 assistance homes are less expensive than they have been in years with many being sold for 50% of their value 2 years ago. During the great depression of the 1930’s the individuals who profited were the ones who stepped out in faith and invested in real estate, stocks and all the material things that represented investments. The losers were the ones who kept their money in the mattress. Our economy will turn around when the people start spending money again and regain their faith and trust in our country. Maybe you don’t have the stomach for the stock market but you have been living in a rented apartment or house waiting for the time that you can buy a home of your own. NOW IS THAT TIME.
The news of the day is that for the home prices have increased. Prices were up quarter over quarter for the first time in three years, according to the latest S+P/Case-Shiller data. The 20-city index rose 1.4 percent from May to June. Although down 15.4 percent since the previous June, this is an improvement from -19.1 percent in the first quarter. Cleveland, San Francisco and Minneapolis had the strongest performances from May to June, up more than 3 percent each. The only cities that declined in June were Las Vegas and Detroit. The Case-Shiller home price indices are calculated on a monthly basis with a two month lag time and published on the last Tuesday of every month. Economists Karl Case, Robert Shiller and Allan Weiss developed an approach to calculate the indices from data on repeat sales of single family homes. The data published from these Case-Shiller home value indices typically covers the 20 Metropolitan Statistical Areas used by Standard and Poors in the S&P/Case Shiller Home Price Index.
The dynamics of the housing market may seem to have a language of their own -- median value, appreciation -- it's hard to know where to start. It's a great time for buyers who waited patiently for prices to come down. Why continue to rent when you can buy for 10 or 20 percent less than you would have paid a few years ago? For sellers, it could be time to consider trading up.
There are a lot of questions that you should have regarding this program and I am limited to the amount of space I have here nor time that you should take to make sure you have all of the answers, the following website offers the answers to most of these FAQ’s:
http://www.federalhousingtaxcredit.com/2009/faq.php
The long and short of the program are as follows:
· the tax credit is for first-time home buyers only. For the tax credit program, the IRS defines a first-time home buyer as someone who has not owned a principal residence during the three-year period prior to the purchase.
· The tax credit does not have to be repaid.
· The tax credit is equal to 10 percent of the home’s purchase price up to a maximum of $8,000.
· The credit is available for homes purchased on or after January 1, 2009 and before December 1, 2009.
· Single taxpayers with incomes up to $75,000 and married couples with incomes up to $150,000 qualify for the full tax credit.
I believe that now is the time to step into the market and claim your share of the housing deals of today whether or not you are a first time buyer. With or without the $8000 assistance homes are less expensive than they have been in years with many being sold for 50% of their value 2 years ago. During the great depression of the 1930’s the individuals who profited were the ones who stepped out in faith and invested in real estate, stocks and all the material things that represented investments. The losers were the ones who kept their money in the mattress. Our economy will turn around when the people start spending money again and regain their faith and trust in our country. Maybe you don’t have the stomach for the stock market but you have been living in a rented apartment or house waiting for the time that you can buy a home of your own. NOW IS THAT TIME.
Monday, August 24, 2009
Hot water reset Button keeps popping?
Yes even the Faucetman can be wrong. Just ask my ex-wife. As much as it may be hard for you to believe even I am capable of making a mistake, I divorced my first one (and never made that one again) and then there was the following discussion dialog from this weekend on GardenWeb, one of my favorite forums:
Thread
“The hot water heater is 3 yrs old. It is making dangerous scalding hot water which automatically shuts it down. Hubby goes into basement and hits the reset and it starts up again. He adjusts the temperature to less hot. I run out of hot water in the shower everyday so he adjusts the temp back to where it was for the past 3 yrs and so it starts making scalding hot water again. Then it shuts down and he has to go press the reset button again. Cyclical problem. What the heck! Can somebody help us, I'm trying to avoid calling the plumber if we can figure this out.”
MyAnswer
Probably not the answer you want to hear but basically it sounds like you need a larger capacity HWH. You are flirting with danger in allowing the heater to overheat so much that the reset is popping. One day instead of the reset working you will build up enough pressure to blow the Temperature/Pressure relief valve and then you will be in for a major fix if not worse depending on where the TPR is drained to and possibly ruin the HWH. It maybe a good time to look into the newer instant hot tankless HWH. They can be expensive on installation but long term savings on not having to keep water heated constantly usually results in a payoutand will give you all the hot water you need on demand.
The Correct Answer (I stand corrected)
I'm not sure I completely agree with faucetman... some additional information would be helpful. how big is the water heater? 40 gal, 50 gal, larger? Under what conditions does it run out of hot water? Is it when only one of you take a shower? Is it when two of you shower after each other, etc? Is it when you do laundry or some other large demand? I suspect that something else is going on - I suspect that the bottom element is burned out and shorted out - or possibly the thermostat is malfunctioning. My first guess would be the lower element. You do need to fix this problem now. The reset button is a safety device - it works when the normal operational controls fail. It is a second-line defense against catastrophic tank failure. You don't want to count on that to continue to prevent serious damage... it's kinda like the emergency brake in your car...you don't want to drive the car knowing that the regular brakes don't work and count on the emergency brake to stop you. As FaucetMan pointed out, you do have one more layer of protection, the TPR valve- that can cause flood/steam damage if it releases but at least it won't level your house like an exploding water heater can. As I said, I think you will find that the lower element is burned out - but you need to get it fixed now and stop resetting it.
The link below shows what happens when a water heater lets go. It doesn't happen often because of the safety devices, but it's a good reminder of why there are a couple of safety devices on the heater and that we shouldn't ignore a failed operating control.
The result
Hubby checked the capacity of the WH. It is 64 gallons. We are only 2 people here.
Yes it is only recent that the scalding water started happening. He lowered the temp & now we run out of hot water on ONE shower. So he set it back where it was and we got the reset problem every few days. I do not take long showers.
My Mea Culpa
I absolutely stand corrected and agree with the previous answer. A 64 gallon HWH should be sufficient for a 4 person family not just a 2 person family. Obviously the tank is malfunctioning and needs repair and soon. I do still believe that a tankless might be more satisfying and efficient but far more expensive than just repairing the existing unit.
The bottom line, as I have said in so many blogs before, DON’T SCREW AROUND WITH YOUR HOT WATER HEATER! Today’s modern product is manufactured for safety and reasonable efficient service if something malfunctions there is a reason and not something to wait around or more importantly fool around to try to avoid the inevitable. I am constantly reminded of the early Saturday morning thread I answered about a hot water heater forcing hot water into all of the cold water lines including the toilet. Someone had replaced the TPR valve with a plug and the HWH was just before exploding. Thankfully I was up early that morning reading my forums and told the poor guy to turn the darn thing off and call a plumber just before his HWH was going to become a guided missile through the roof or worse through the livingroom, bedroom and out through the garage to the neighbors house.
Thread
“The hot water heater is 3 yrs old. It is making dangerous scalding hot water which automatically shuts it down. Hubby goes into basement and hits the reset and it starts up again. He adjusts the temperature to less hot. I run out of hot water in the shower everyday so he adjusts the temp back to where it was for the past 3 yrs and so it starts making scalding hot water again. Then it shuts down and he has to go press the reset button again. Cyclical problem. What the heck! Can somebody help us, I'm trying to avoid calling the plumber if we can figure this out.”
MyAnswer
Probably not the answer you want to hear but basically it sounds like you need a larger capacity HWH. You are flirting with danger in allowing the heater to overheat so much that the reset is popping. One day instead of the reset working you will build up enough pressure to blow the Temperature/Pressure relief valve and then you will be in for a major fix if not worse depending on where the TPR is drained to and possibly ruin the HWH. It maybe a good time to look into the newer instant hot tankless HWH. They can be expensive on installation but long term savings on not having to keep water heated constantly usually results in a payoutand will give you all the hot water you need on demand.
The Correct Answer (I stand corrected)
I'm not sure I completely agree with faucetman... some additional information would be helpful. how big is the water heater? 40 gal, 50 gal, larger? Under what conditions does it run out of hot water? Is it when only one of you take a shower? Is it when two of you shower after each other, etc? Is it when you do laundry or some other large demand? I suspect that something else is going on - I suspect that the bottom element is burned out and shorted out - or possibly the thermostat is malfunctioning. My first guess would be the lower element. You do need to fix this problem now. The reset button is a safety device - it works when the normal operational controls fail. It is a second-line defense against catastrophic tank failure. You don't want to count on that to continue to prevent serious damage... it's kinda like the emergency brake in your car...you don't want to drive the car knowing that the regular brakes don't work and count on the emergency brake to stop you. As FaucetMan pointed out, you do have one more layer of protection, the TPR valve- that can cause flood/steam damage if it releases but at least it won't level your house like an exploding water heater can. As I said, I think you will find that the lower element is burned out - but you need to get it fixed now and stop resetting it.
The link below shows what happens when a water heater lets go. It doesn't happen often because of the safety devices, but it's a good reminder of why there are a couple of safety devices on the heater and that we shouldn't ignore a failed operating control.
The result
Hubby checked the capacity of the WH. It is 64 gallons. We are only 2 people here.
Yes it is only recent that the scalding water started happening. He lowered the temp & now we run out of hot water on ONE shower. So he set it back where it was and we got the reset problem every few days. I do not take long showers.
My Mea Culpa
I absolutely stand corrected and agree with the previous answer. A 64 gallon HWH should be sufficient for a 4 person family not just a 2 person family. Obviously the tank is malfunctioning and needs repair and soon. I do still believe that a tankless might be more satisfying and efficient but far more expensive than just repairing the existing unit.
The bottom line, as I have said in so many blogs before, DON’T SCREW AROUND WITH YOUR HOT WATER HEATER! Today’s modern product is manufactured for safety and reasonable efficient service if something malfunctions there is a reason and not something to wait around or more importantly fool around to try to avoid the inevitable. I am constantly reminded of the early Saturday morning thread I answered about a hot water heater forcing hot water into all of the cold water lines including the toilet. Someone had replaced the TPR valve with a plug and the HWH was just before exploding. Thankfully I was up early that morning reading my forums and told the poor guy to turn the darn thing off and call a plumber just before his HWH was going to become a guided missile through the roof or worse through the livingroom, bedroom and out through the garage to the neighbors house.
Friday, August 21, 2009
How do I Replace A Single Handled Faucet Cartridge?
Last week I wrote about how to replace a washer in a normal double handle faucet to repair a leak. A more complicated issue is to correct a leak in a single handled faucet which involves the replacement of the sometimes complicated cartridge which is the fundamental heart of the single handled fixture. These cartridges are pressed into their fittings and most of the time will not come out without some assistance and this assistance can be a hammer and a punch. In the hands of an unskilled handyman this usually ends up with a trip to the supply house for a new faucet. I read the following narrative from a thread in one of my favorite DIY forums this morning:
“Over the weekend I replaced the leaky cartridges in a Moen bar sink...individual hot and cold. The faucet was installed in the mid 70's, functionally clean not loaded with mineral deposits, exterior finish just shy of looking new. The hot cartridge came out with some convincing, the cold did not. The lower half of the cold cartridge broke off inside the valve. Which would explain the drippy faucet, you could tell it must have been cracked for years. My method was crude and while I'm certain, it didn't cause it to break, most likely it didn't help. I ended up removing the faucet from the sink, and finding a small punch to drive the broken part out from the supply side.BTW...this series of Moen faucets now have life time warranty on valve parts, the one installed did not. Moen helped me locate a new part number that "should" work, but did not have them. After getting a referral from Moen, I called the supplier they suggested. They had the out of production part. The parts were not cheap, but the replacement faucet was in excess of $450, so in comparison, $75 in parts wasn't out of the question. The second generation part fit perfectly and the 30 year old faucet works PERFECTLY!” Congrats on your success.
This is another example of the excellence of Moen’s customer service. I have heard many times of situations like this where if they had the part they would replace it free even though the faucet wasn’t the one covered under their “lifetime” warranty and even have replaced the entire faucet. As I have mentioned many times in my blogs this is a reason to buy a quality product and to know the manufacturer’s warranty especially if you plan to stay in your home for a long time.
“Over the weekend I replaced the leaky cartridges in a Moen bar sink...individual hot and cold. The faucet was installed in the mid 70's, functionally clean not loaded with mineral deposits, exterior finish just shy of looking new. The hot cartridge came out with some convincing, the cold did not. The lower half of the cold cartridge broke off inside the valve. Which would explain the drippy faucet, you could tell it must have been cracked for years. My method was crude and while I'm certain, it didn't cause it to break, most likely it didn't help. I ended up removing the faucet from the sink, and finding a small punch to drive the broken part out from the supply side.BTW...this series of Moen faucets now have life time warranty on valve parts, the one installed did not. Moen helped me locate a new part number that "should" work, but did not have them. After getting a referral from Moen, I called the supplier they suggested. They had the out of production part. The parts were not cheap, but the replacement faucet was in excess of $450, so in comparison, $75 in parts wasn't out of the question. The second generation part fit perfectly and the 30 year old faucet works PERFECTLY!” Congrats on your success.
This is another example of the excellence of Moen’s customer service. I have heard many times of situations like this where if they had the part they would replace it free even though the faucet wasn’t the one covered under their “lifetime” warranty and even have replaced the entire faucet. As I have mentioned many times in my blogs this is a reason to buy a quality product and to know the manufacturer’s warranty especially if you plan to stay in your home for a long time.
Now as to the original question, what could he have used to pull the cartridge out without risking the damage? The answer is a cartridge puller as pictured above, which can be picked up at your local box store or hardware store.Tip: when you reinstall make sure you use plenty of plumbers grease on the new gaskets and coat the inside of the fixture also.
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Handicap Bathrooms Version 3
As I mentioned in one of my blogs last week, two of my most frequently accessed articles are ones written about the conversion of an existing bathroom to ADA standards or the one about building a handicap bathroom from scratch. I wrote these articles from personal experience because of my own disability situation. It is hard for a well bodied person to understand the barriers that exist to perform even the simplest of daily functions when one is handicapped. Bathing, using the bathroom, or simply washing ones hands can become a real trial without help or in a non handicap friendly facility. I was at our local health clinic (a place where you would expect to be in compliance) on this past Monday and found the bathroom to be so small that one could not get in it with straddling the toilet to get the door shut and it had an old low high toilet. The staff though it funny. I saw it as almost impossible to use. I don’t know how they have gotten away with it except those of us who have to avail ourselves of some charity, when it comes to health care, are wont to complain for fear of losing their access to the care.
I get so many people reading my blogs on this subject that I though today I would give another person’s opinion in the hope that it will provide something that I missed. The following info comes from the following web link for which I give total credit and thanks for the information:
Bathroom Safety is Good for Everyone
Modifying a bathroom for someone with mobility issues has a number of benefits: It aids independent living. To be able to care for one’s personal needs without assistance instills a sense of pride and independence. It maintains strength. Pushing up on support bars or lifting one’s body weight from the tub keeps muscles active. It helps in-home caregivers. Adults helping those with disabilities rely on grab bars and transfer benches to keep both their charges and themselves secure and stable. It creates a safe place for both adults and children. Toilet seat lights, grab bars, and no-slip safety strips help the entire family stay safe in the bathroom.
Other types of modifications for safety and accessibility include:
Raised toilet seats
Walk in tub systems
Water temperature testers
No-slip safety strips
Personal care aids
Modifying a bathroom for someone with mobility issues has a number of benefits: It aids independent living. To be able to care for one’s personal needs without assistance instills a sense of pride and independence. It maintains strength. Pushing up on support bars or lifting one’s body weight from the tub keeps muscles active. It helps in-home caregivers. Adults helping those with disabilities rely on grab bars and transfer benches to keep both their charges and themselves secure and stable. It creates a safe place for both adults and children. Toilet seat lights, grab bars, and no-slip safety strips help the entire family stay safe in the bathroom.
Other types of modifications for safety and accessibility include:
Raised toilet seats
Walk in tub systems
Water temperature testers
No-slip safety strips
Personal care aids
Guidelines for Bathroom Designs for the Elderly and Handicapped
In 1990, the Americans with Disabilities Act developed building guidelines for public facilities and businesses to follow in order to accommodate individuals with disabilities. These standards provide helpful insight into what homeowners can do as well.
The University of Missouri’s Extension Office website also offers detailed diagrams and installation advice, as do many bathroom fixture manufacturers.
General Considerations
Here are some basic guidelines for bathroom designs for the elderly and handicapped:
Install grab bars parallel to the floor, not diagonally, alongside the toilet and in the tub/shower area. Adding a vertical grab bar inside the bathing area is also a good idea.
Vanities should be open under the sink to accommodate wheelchairs and benches.
Countertops should be 30-34 inches high for someone in a wheelchair, and 40 inches high for someone who has trouble bending.
Toilets in an accessible bathroom should be approximately 18 inches high, although seat extenders can help achieve this.
Mirrors should be hung lengthwise, along the back of the sink, not at standing eye level.
Bathing benches should be two-to-four inches smaller than the tub width to avoid puncturing the side walls.
Change out bath fixtures and door handles to accommodate reduced hand coordination and grip.
Make sure there’s plenty of room around the toilet for wheelchair maneuverability.
Door entrances should be 32 to 36 inches wide.
While a non-slip surface is perfect for a bath or shower, investigate the option of complete non slip flooriing. Just make sure that the surface is easy to roll across in a wheelchair.
Eliminate the clutter. Decorative knick-knacks on countertops, extension cords, and hampers may impede the progress of someone with a disability to conduct business efficiently.
Adjust lighting based on the individual’s needs. Lighting may have to be lowered or brightened, or additional light sources may have to be added. Reposition all switches, too.
I hope this take on handicspped access as added to your information. Please take a moment to read my other blogs on this subject also. Contact a customer service rep at NBS for assistance and information you may need on any fixtures.
Monday, August 17, 2009
HOW TO REPAIR A LEAKY FAUCET.
I thought, for a change, I would revert back to my original intent for the blog and answer a simple but yet frequent question on most of the DIY discussion rooms. How do I repair a leaky faucet?
This is for double handled faucets not single lever types. Leaky faucets occur for many reasons, the most common being the washer inside the faucet has worn out and needs to be replaced. You don’t need to call a plumber (unless you are Crash and Burn Hennecy, who is capable of getting an electrical shock while doing plumbing) to replace a washer in a faucet, since you can do the job yourself in about 10 minutes with a few simple tools.
Before you begin have a selection of washers on hand (available in mixed repair kits at your local hardware store)to choose from or the specific washer for the brand faucet you have. Many times these washers can be obtained from the manufacturer free of charge with a simple phone call to their customer service line.
To begin the process turn off the water supply to the faucet either with the shut off valve below the sink or if none is located there use the main water supply control valve usually located in line with the main water line coming into your house. If you don’t know where your main shut off is now is a great time to find it even if you have a shut off on the faucet. Once the water is turned off turn the faucet to release any water pressure then turn the faucet off. Take a crescent wrench and loosen the lock nut at the base of the faucet. This is done by turning the nut counter-clockwise to loosen it. Some water may leak out when you do this but it will only be a small amount. The washer you want to replace is in the bottom of the faucet. Lift the faucet up from the sink and turn it over and look up inside the faucet itself. You will see the washer for the faucet in its base. Using a flat head screwdriver, pry up gently in the middle of the washer to remove it. Replace the washer in the faucet with your replacement part, or match the size of the old washer to a new one and install it in the same position as the old. Turn the faucet back over and replace it in the sink. Retighten the lock nut by turning it clockwise. Turn your water supply on and test the faucet for leaks.
Now that you have your confidence up and you think plumbing is maybe your long lost avocation maybe it’s time to add that new bathroom your spouse has been wanting. Forget it! Call a good licensed plumber.
This is for double handled faucets not single lever types. Leaky faucets occur for many reasons, the most common being the washer inside the faucet has worn out and needs to be replaced. You don’t need to call a plumber (unless you are Crash and Burn Hennecy, who is capable of getting an electrical shock while doing plumbing) to replace a washer in a faucet, since you can do the job yourself in about 10 minutes with a few simple tools.
Before you begin have a selection of washers on hand (available in mixed repair kits at your local hardware store)to choose from or the specific washer for the brand faucet you have. Many times these washers can be obtained from the manufacturer free of charge with a simple phone call to their customer service line.
To begin the process turn off the water supply to the faucet either with the shut off valve below the sink or if none is located there use the main water supply control valve usually located in line with the main water line coming into your house. If you don’t know where your main shut off is now is a great time to find it even if you have a shut off on the faucet. Once the water is turned off turn the faucet to release any water pressure then turn the faucet off. Take a crescent wrench and loosen the lock nut at the base of the faucet. This is done by turning the nut counter-clockwise to loosen it. Some water may leak out when you do this but it will only be a small amount. The washer you want to replace is in the bottom of the faucet. Lift the faucet up from the sink and turn it over and look up inside the faucet itself. You will see the washer for the faucet in its base. Using a flat head screwdriver, pry up gently in the middle of the washer to remove it. Replace the washer in the faucet with your replacement part, or match the size of the old washer to a new one and install it in the same position as the old. Turn the faucet back over and replace it in the sink. Retighten the lock nut by turning it clockwise. Turn your water supply on and test the faucet for leaks.
Now that you have your confidence up and you think plumbing is maybe your long lost avocation maybe it’s time to add that new bathroom your spouse has been wanting. Forget it! Call a good licensed plumber.
Friday, August 14, 2009
MY T&P VALVE IS LEAKING WHAT SHOULD I DO?
As most of you that read my blogs on a regular basis know, I spend part of each day reading, learning and contributing to a large group of my favorite discussion groups and forums on DIY issues. Each time I run across a thread about T&P or TPR valves (temperature and pressure relief valves) I wonder why we don’t read about exploding houses on a daily basis. Yesterday I participated in a thread where the writer wrote that he had replaced his TPR valve because it was leaking and much to his surprise the new one leaked too! He felt he couldn’t have a problem with his hot water heater because it was only 10 years old and was producing great hot water, even too hot water at times. So should he replace the TPR valve again? Well there were differing opinions. Some thought he should install an overflow pressure tank, others thought that indeed he must have gotten a bad TPR valve or when he “tested” it to see if the new one worked he might have corrupted it with dregs from the HWH. But one on the ball contributor hit the nail right on the head, in my humble opinion, and said the hot water heater was going critical (over heating) and was either in need of repair or replacement and I whole heartedly agree. The telling point was the “too hot water”. The TPR valve is there for the expressed purpose of keeping the HWH from exploding when it overheats. Watch this video to see what happens when the TPR valve fails, or as when some less than bright folks just don’t install one. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGWmONHipVo
The same homeowner then writes a thread about how far from the floor should the overflow pipe from the HWH be. HWH’s don’t have overflow pipes. The pipe that comes from the heater is just a conduit to pipe the hot scalding water that erupts when the TPR valve blows. The idea that a hot water heater simply over flows when it gets too hot is just not true. As to how far from the floor the pipe should stop? Various codes state anywhere from 3” to 3’ and some even require that they be piped out of the house so that damage to the floor and surrounding areas can be avoided and so that the water cannot possibly cause scalding of any person that may come in contact with it. I have agreed with the later idea to minimize damage but this requires some vigilance on the homeowners part so that he will know when the TPR blows.
The bottom line? Let the TPR do its job and if yours is “leaking” get a professional to check your hot water heater for problems before things get dangerous.
The same homeowner then writes a thread about how far from the floor should the overflow pipe from the HWH be. HWH’s don’t have overflow pipes. The pipe that comes from the heater is just a conduit to pipe the hot scalding water that erupts when the TPR valve blows. The idea that a hot water heater simply over flows when it gets too hot is just not true. As to how far from the floor the pipe should stop? Various codes state anywhere from 3” to 3’ and some even require that they be piped out of the house so that damage to the floor and surrounding areas can be avoided and so that the water cannot possibly cause scalding of any person that may come in contact with it. I have agreed with the later idea to minimize damage but this requires some vigilance on the homeowners part so that he will know when the TPR blows.
The bottom line? Let the TPR do its job and if yours is “leaking” get a professional to check your hot water heater for problems before things get dangerous.
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
National Builder Supply Complaints?
I have written, in previous blogs, that I subscribe to a statistics/metering service entitled “Sitemeter”. This service allows me to know many things. I know how many folks visit my site daily, where they came from or what question they asked that got them to me, their physical location, what internet service they use, how many pages of my blog they read, how long they stayed, and what they exit from or to. This enables me to keep up with what interests my readers the most, what questions they are looking for answers to and where they are finding out about my blog. The reason we set this blog up originally was to meet the needs of the DIY public with interesting articles and information and frankly to occupy my days of being homebound. The most popular blog, thus far as been the series on “what’s that smell?” followed in close second by my series on ADA and handicap access bathrooms and fixtures and then in third place “how to build a bathroom in your basement”. These three bring a constant flow of traffic to the site and I am grateful that I have been able to provide this info to the public and strive to find more subjects that people want to read about so if something comes to mind leave me a comment or drop me an email.
That said the purpose of today’s blog is further answer another frequent inquiry that I have addressed several times but still comes up. People will go to Google and ask “Are there any complaints about National Builder Supply?”. In the past the answer was simple….NO. I have followed this answer up with at least two blogs containing compliment letters and several other blogs about Marcus Morgan (NBS owner) and his dedication to customer service. You can view some these at the following links:
http://nationalbuildersupply.blogspot.com/2009/06/last-word-on-complaints-and-compliments.html
That said the purpose of today’s blog is further answer another frequent inquiry that I have addressed several times but still comes up. People will go to Google and ask “Are there any complaints about National Builder Supply?”. In the past the answer was simple….NO. I have followed this answer up with at least two blogs containing compliment letters and several other blogs about Marcus Morgan (NBS owner) and his dedication to customer service. You can view some these at the following links:
http://nationalbuildersupply.blogspot.com/2009/06/last-word-on-complaints-and-compliments.html
http://nationalbuildersupply.blogspot.com/2009/06/last-word-on-complaints-and-compliments.html
http://nationalbuildersupply.blogspot.com/2009/06/sitemeter-resultswhy-buy-from-nbs.html
Monday, August 10, 2009
MORE ON SHOWERS
As I was saying in Friday’s blog, shower technology has changed from a simple bathing experience, using rudimentary ideas such as my son’s bucket solution or the first “shower”, I ever remember seeing , a rubber hose that snapped onto the tub faucet. Today it takes an engineering degree to figure out the choices available. I discussed, on Friday, the code requirement of a protective safety shower valve. Today let’s talk about some of the choices, and there are many, of shower heads.
Single Head- you can choose the single head with no adjustment for water stream or with infinite control for massage and spray. This is the most basic type of shower and is most frequently replaced, at least, with the massage option. It’s an easy transition because all you have to do is replace the head. No real plumbing changes and doesn’t take a lot of talent, just unscrew the old basic head, apply a little pipe dope or Teflon tape and screw on the new head. If you haven’t done this simple change you will be pleasantly surprised as to how wonderful one of these adjustable spray heads can be.
Hand Held Shower – The next step past the above is the hand held shower head. This option gives you all that the adjustable spray head does but puts it on the end of a hose that allows you to hold it in your hand and spray yourself all over rather than just standing under the traditional shower. This option is great for getting to hard to reach spots, for shampooing, and can be exciting when you are trying to be “green” and saving water by showering with a friend. This is also a simple solution requiring the same thing as the single shower head, no plumbing changes or experience. Just remove the old head and screw on the new hand held assembly. These hand held models can be very affordable starting at less than $20 and going up into the hundreds depending on options and quality.
Multiple Head Systems- Usually requiring provisions during the initial installation, these shower heads are basically more than one shower head attached on a single pipe from the wall (a simple change as the ones above) but can be as complicated as heads on different areas of the tub/shower and having different valve controls allowing for different water temperatures on each head. There are multiple head systems that work on sliding bars, on forked pipes and that, as I mentioned above, may be each installed on their own piping. In this latter form think “body sprays” around the inside of a shower coming from all directions. These can be very expensive because they require multiple outlets, valves, diverters and controls.
Rain Style Heads- by far the newest trend in showers, the “rain” head provides a spray that simulates a rain stream. These can be mounted on a pipe from the wall, thus can be a simple change as with the first two above, but more likely are ceiling mounted and will have to be plumbed during the initial construction. Mounted from the ceiling one or multiple rain shower heads allow you to stand in a spray of water that will feel like you are out in a nice spring rain. A warning…as nice and popular as these are they can be very expensive based on quality and size with some of these showerheads as large as 12” across.
Because of expense and the potential need for some very complicated plumbing you should examine all of the options and decide what you want before starting a new bathroom or the renovation of an old one. With the right choices you can create a great shower environment that will make bath time fun for the whole family, almost as fun as a flock of rubber duckies from your childhood.
Thursday, August 6, 2009
What is a Shower Safety Valve and other Shower info
Back in the good ole days when I was young, and so was dirt, taking a shower was simple you either stood outside while your parents sprayed you down on your way back from the outhouse or if you were lucky enough to have indoor plumbing you just adjusted the hot and cold water knobs to the temperature you wanted and turned the knob to divert the water from the faucet to the shower head. Along the way you hoped no one flushed a toilet or decided to use hot water in some other part of the house. My oldest son, John, lives the “green” life to the max even these days, living on a small farm in central Tennessee. He has an outhouse and for a shower he heats water on a wood stove to pour into a 5 gallon bucket which he stands under and dumps on himself to rinse off. Needless to say, we stay in the local motel when visiting.
Today building a new home or remodeling an old one requires some careful thinking when it comes to your plumbing choices especially the shower equipment. Unlike a simple bathroom sink faucet or maybe a little more complicated kitchen variety, the shower system is hard installed when the wall is still open and unfinished and the components from one manufacturer to the other do not match nor fit one another. If something breaks in the future it can be a real problem to repair or replace and so I recommend that you spend the most money you can to get the best possible quality.
There are many things to consider beyond whether you want chrome or oil rubbed bronze. You have to choose the type of safety valve, more on those below, the type of shower head, hand held, wall or ceiling mounted, rain style, etc and even the style of diverter and tub filler faucet. The choices are endless and expensive. So the best option is to choose your brand and style carefully and buy the complete package all at one time. Many manufacturers and vendors offer these packages at special prices. As always start and finish your shopping at www.nationalbuildersupply.com for the best selection and pricing and for the most help in selecting your needs.
Now as to "Safety Valves" they are now mandated, by code, throughout the United States, thermostatic temperature control valves and pressure balance valves insure maximum bathing safety for everyone in your household.What is a Safety Valve? We’ve all been there before. You’ve just stepped under your nice hot shower when someone else in the house either turns on a faucet or flushes the toilet; suddenly the temperature of your shower plummets to freezing cold or becomes scalding hot – leaving you with soap in your eyes as you try to manually adjust the temperature back to a comfortable level. While style and versatility are important when it comes to planning a new bathroom, so is safety...and particularly important for small children, physically disabled people, and elderly people. Safety valves prevent the temperature shocks associated with accidental scalding and falls in the shower.
Thermostatic valves work by constantly mixing hot and cold water to a preselected temperature. No matter what effects the water supply to your shower (temperature or pressure), the thermostat reacts by recalibrating the quantities of hot and cold water required to maintain the correct temperature. For convenience, peace of mind and economy all in one, a thermostat is a must.
Pressure balance valves mean peace of mind for you and your family with economical, reliable shower protection from scalding and cold shocks. If a toilet is flushed or a dishwasher is turned on, the available hot or cold water supply has an immediate pressure change.
Safety Valve Comparison Chart
Thermostatic temperature control valves and pressure balance valves both offer scald protection for you and your family, but there are differences.
Thermostatic Temperature Control Valves and Pressure Balance Valves
Both offer the following:
Compensates for hot or cold water pressure fluctuations and maintains selected shower temperature. No matter how the water pressure is effected by someone washing dishes or laundry, watering the lawn, or flushing a toilet, etc., you are protected.
Protects against scalding if the cold water supply is cut off by automatically shutting off the flow of hot water.
Additionally Thermostatic Temperature Control Valves offer the following that pressure balance valves don’t:
Automatically maintains your selected shower temperature (within 1° F) regardless of changes in the temperature of your hot or cold water supply. Eliminates the need to manually re-adjust the temperature setting as your hot water heater empties.
Allows you to precisely pre-select your water temperature before you step into your shower which saves water and energy.
Allows you to run multiple shower outlets simultaneously while accurately maintaining water temperature at each outlet.
The safety valve is the most important part of your system. Now use the above info to decide which will work best for you then choose a diverter to switch water from faucet to shower head, decide on a shower system as I mentioned earlier and lather up. Well you have to wait for it to be installed so get the garden hose out for the rinse cycle or put the water in the stove to heat, like my son, until the bathroom is finished.
Today building a new home or remodeling an old one requires some careful thinking when it comes to your plumbing choices especially the shower equipment. Unlike a simple bathroom sink faucet or maybe a little more complicated kitchen variety, the shower system is hard installed when the wall is still open and unfinished and the components from one manufacturer to the other do not match nor fit one another. If something breaks in the future it can be a real problem to repair or replace and so I recommend that you spend the most money you can to get the best possible quality.
There are many things to consider beyond whether you want chrome or oil rubbed bronze. You have to choose the type of safety valve, more on those below, the type of shower head, hand held, wall or ceiling mounted, rain style, etc and even the style of diverter and tub filler faucet. The choices are endless and expensive. So the best option is to choose your brand and style carefully and buy the complete package all at one time. Many manufacturers and vendors offer these packages at special prices. As always start and finish your shopping at www.nationalbuildersupply.com for the best selection and pricing and for the most help in selecting your needs.
Now as to "Safety Valves" they are now mandated, by code, throughout the United States, thermostatic temperature control valves and pressure balance valves insure maximum bathing safety for everyone in your household.What is a Safety Valve? We’ve all been there before. You’ve just stepped under your nice hot shower when someone else in the house either turns on a faucet or flushes the toilet; suddenly the temperature of your shower plummets to freezing cold or becomes scalding hot – leaving you with soap in your eyes as you try to manually adjust the temperature back to a comfortable level. While style and versatility are important when it comes to planning a new bathroom, so is safety...and particularly important for small children, physically disabled people, and elderly people. Safety valves prevent the temperature shocks associated with accidental scalding and falls in the shower.
Thermostatic valves work by constantly mixing hot and cold water to a preselected temperature. No matter what effects the water supply to your shower (temperature or pressure), the thermostat reacts by recalibrating the quantities of hot and cold water required to maintain the correct temperature. For convenience, peace of mind and economy all in one, a thermostat is a must.
Pressure balance valves mean peace of mind for you and your family with economical, reliable shower protection from scalding and cold shocks. If a toilet is flushed or a dishwasher is turned on, the available hot or cold water supply has an immediate pressure change.
Safety Valve Comparison Chart
Thermostatic temperature control valves and pressure balance valves both offer scald protection for you and your family, but there are differences.
Thermostatic Temperature Control Valves and Pressure Balance Valves
Both offer the following:
Compensates for hot or cold water pressure fluctuations and maintains selected shower temperature. No matter how the water pressure is effected by someone washing dishes or laundry, watering the lawn, or flushing a toilet, etc., you are protected.
Protects against scalding if the cold water supply is cut off by automatically shutting off the flow of hot water.
Additionally Thermostatic Temperature Control Valves offer the following that pressure balance valves don’t:
Automatically maintains your selected shower temperature (within 1° F) regardless of changes in the temperature of your hot or cold water supply. Eliminates the need to manually re-adjust the temperature setting as your hot water heater empties.
Allows you to precisely pre-select your water temperature before you step into your shower which saves water and energy.
Allows you to run multiple shower outlets simultaneously while accurately maintaining water temperature at each outlet.
The safety valve is the most important part of your system. Now use the above info to decide which will work best for you then choose a diverter to switch water from faucet to shower head, decide on a shower system as I mentioned earlier and lather up. Well you have to wait for it to be installed so get the garden hose out for the rinse cycle or put the water in the stove to heat, like my son, until the bathroom is finished.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Toto Washlet Update
As many of you who follow my blogsite know, about 3 months ago I got the idea that I could really use a Toto Washlet to better my quality of life. As I mention all the time I am disabled and as my infirmaties increased I found that even the simplest of day to day functions became more difficult including those toilet functions that we don’t need to go into here but suffice to say I was having a difficult time in the bathroom keeping myself clean. I had always considered a Washlet as an item that only the very rich would have and am fairly certain that the manufacturer has marketed it as such but was informed, while reading a forum thread, that a Washlet would be ideal for older or disabled folks and I began a series of blogs and urging of Toto that they market it to that segment also. I don’t know if they listened but I still feel very strongly about the need and equally grateful that I have one for myself.
With these thoughts in mind I thought I would stir the pot one more time and at the same time give you an update on my own Washlet experiences and hope that a few more people will read my blog and see how helpful one can be for themselves or someone important to them. When I first wrote about mine I was immediately flooded with questions from readers who wanted answers to a lot of their questions, how easy was it to install? How did it work? Did it do a good job? Do you still have to use toilet paper? And the list goes on and on. I guess people figured that if I was willing to write about having it I was willing to answer questions. Yes it was easily installed, so much so that “crash and burn Hennecy” (my best friend of 42 years) did it without either crashing, burning or damaging himself or the Washlet. In fact he had it installed in less than 30 minutes and everything he needed to do the job, other than a screw driver, came in the box including quick connect adapters, pex tubing and electrical connections. How does it work? Very well. The one I bought has both the rear and front washing ability and does just that. At the touch of a button a small nozzle extends out of the device and proceeds to spurt high speed water, at your chosen temperature, and even oscillates, when you choose, to assist in the cleansing. It does take some getting used to as to how long to keep it washing but it would be safe to say probably not even 2 minutes and frankly I haven’t timed it. When you’re through, with that step, a warm air dryer kicks on and proceeds to blow the affected areas dry. This air, just like the water, is adjustable, temperature wise, to your desired heat. At no time does any part of the device come in contact with your body. The Washlet also includes a heated seat, which I haven’t felt the need to use as yet, and a self closing device which would satisfy most ladies in the household that they would not unceremoniously drop into a gaping toilet. Is there still a need for toilet paper? Probably not but I still have to be safe and usually check to make sure the job was done properly but so far it always has been.
In summation I feel that I made a wise purchase and would be extremely helpful to any one in your family that needs the help that a Washlet can give. Additionally it makes a unique conversation piece in my home along with the casket in the spare bedroom. Casket in the spare bedroom? That’s another story for another day.
With these thoughts in mind I thought I would stir the pot one more time and at the same time give you an update on my own Washlet experiences and hope that a few more people will read my blog and see how helpful one can be for themselves or someone important to them. When I first wrote about mine I was immediately flooded with questions from readers who wanted answers to a lot of their questions, how easy was it to install? How did it work? Did it do a good job? Do you still have to use toilet paper? And the list goes on and on. I guess people figured that if I was willing to write about having it I was willing to answer questions. Yes it was easily installed, so much so that “crash and burn Hennecy” (my best friend of 42 years) did it without either crashing, burning or damaging himself or the Washlet. In fact he had it installed in less than 30 minutes and everything he needed to do the job, other than a screw driver, came in the box including quick connect adapters, pex tubing and electrical connections. How does it work? Very well. The one I bought has both the rear and front washing ability and does just that. At the touch of a button a small nozzle extends out of the device and proceeds to spurt high speed water, at your chosen temperature, and even oscillates, when you choose, to assist in the cleansing. It does take some getting used to as to how long to keep it washing but it would be safe to say probably not even 2 minutes and frankly I haven’t timed it. When you’re through, with that step, a warm air dryer kicks on and proceeds to blow the affected areas dry. This air, just like the water, is adjustable, temperature wise, to your desired heat. At no time does any part of the device come in contact with your body. The Washlet also includes a heated seat, which I haven’t felt the need to use as yet, and a self closing device which would satisfy most ladies in the household that they would not unceremoniously drop into a gaping toilet. Is there still a need for toilet paper? Probably not but I still have to be safe and usually check to make sure the job was done properly but so far it always has been.
In summation I feel that I made a wise purchase and would be extremely helpful to any one in your family that needs the help that a Washlet can give. Additionally it makes a unique conversation piece in my home along with the casket in the spare bedroom. Casket in the spare bedroom? That’s another story for another day.
Monday, August 3, 2009
Great DIY Ideas to use The $2000 you can win from NBS
In studying, over the weekend, the idea of how I could use that $2000 NBS is giving away in their "Update your out of date bathroom” contest (see details in last Friday's blog), I ran across this series of DIY projects on AOL and felt that over all they were too good for you to miss and not to pass on. All of this info comes from AOL , Sunset Magazine and My Home Ideas Magazine and is reproduced here giving them full credit for the contribution and the links to take you to each element of the articles. I hope you enjoy these projects and will take time to try some of the projects especially the ones about the bathroom & kitchen projects and remember National Builder Supply for all of your needs for these projects.
The entire article can be found at the following link:
http://home.aol.com/diy?icid=mainwelcomedl5link4http%3A%2F%2Fhome.aol.com%2Fdiy
A SEW RENAISSANCE
On the heels of knitting, sewing is the latest traditional craft to make a huge comeback. Meet six talented women who are part of the new indie craft movement, and learn what motivates them.
> Read Full Article
REINVENT YOUR STUFF 20 IDEAS TO CHANGE THINGS YOU ALREADY HAVE
Create great new uses for things you already own
> Read Full Article
KITCHEN MAKEOVERS ON A BUDGET
One lucky homeowner got a new dream kitchen. Learn how you can do it on a budget.
> Read Full Article
7 EASY KITCHEN MAKEOVERS
Use the space you've got and create a new-and-improved kitchen within the existing floor plan.
> Read Full Article
3 BATROOM RENOVATIONS
These small spaces needed big help. With some creativity and hard work, they were given a much-needed makeover.
> Read Full Article
The entire article can be found at the following link:
http://home.aol.com/diy?icid=mainwelcomedl5link4http%3A%2F%2Fhome.aol.com%2Fdiy
A SEW RENAISSANCE
On the heels of knitting, sewing is the latest traditional craft to make a huge comeback. Meet six talented women who are part of the new indie craft movement, and learn what motivates them.
> Read Full Article
REINVENT YOUR STUFF 20 IDEAS TO CHANGE THINGS YOU ALREADY HAVE
Create great new uses for things you already own
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KITCHEN MAKEOVERS ON A BUDGET
One lucky homeowner got a new dream kitchen. Learn how you can do it on a budget.
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7 EASY KITCHEN MAKEOVERS
Use the space you've got and create a new-and-improved kitchen within the existing floor plan.
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3 BATROOM RENOVATIONS
These small spaces needed big help. With some creativity and hard work, they were given a much-needed makeover.
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