How to Choose a Cutting Board

I have discussed, in recent blogs, the options in countertops, sinks, faucets, and back splashes all of which are more or less permanently attached to your kitchen until your wife changes her mind or a new TREND hits. But an important part of every kitchen, that isn’t permanently attached, is the cutting board. The cutting board has become a mainstay of my kitchen, from providing the basis for chopping or food preparation, to the serving of the finished meal. They often even double as 'hot pad' for food presentation. Especially useful in my kitchen because, according to my children, I only know how to cook on HIGH and my favorite indication of doneness is BURNT. Every kitchen has at least one, and it's not unusual to have 4 or 5 of them. My selection all bear the scars of use or misuse as the case might be.Traditionally, cutting boards were mostly made of hardwoods, but over the past few years, a new generation of boards has emerged. Made of various substances, each type has its own benefits and drawbacks. There has been much discussion over the years as to which type of board is 'safer' or less likely to provide a breeding ground for bacteria. Although some are easier to clean, I feel that any board, if not used and cleaned properly, can become a vehicle for food contamination, if the bacteria has managed to survive the other hazards of my kitchen.The following will provide an overview of pros and cons of board types. What type you choose will depend of course, on personal preference. Personally, I tend to prefer both plastic and wooden boards, and have several in my kitchen.

1. Corian® Boards Made by the Dupont Company, these boards are easy to clean, and come in various shapes and sizes. They are non-porous, which makes them more resistant to bacterial growth, and they will not easily stain. Over time, these boards will suffer marks or cuts, but these, as with Corian counter tops, can be easily repaired by sanding the surface smooth again. A corian board should not be used as a trivet, as heat can damage the surface.

2. Plastic Cutting BoardsGenerally, plastic boards are the most affordable and can be found in various colors, hard or flexible, thick or thin. The flexible ones are terrific for food transfer and are easy to store. They will not last as long as thicker boards, as sharp knives will eventually cut through the thin material. Hard plastic boards are extremely durable and can also double as trivets. Plastic boards are generally considered the 'safest' as they are the easiest to clean and sanitize, and the smaller ones can be placed in the dishwasher.

3. Tempered Glass Boards Glass boards are beautiful and patterned to suit every decor. They are very durable, resistant to heat, and are the most sanitary and easy to clean. However, glass boards tend to dull knife edges. They are mostly heavier than other boards, but are great for protecting your counter from hot pots.

4. Wooden Boards boards were usually made of maple hardwoods. Today, other woods and patterns are used, and bamboo, which is actually a grass, has become very popular due to its hardness and resistance to bacteria. Bamboo is also considered the best of the “green” alternatives because bamboo is so rapidly regenerated. The best feature of wooden boards, is that they are the easiest on knife edges and even though they scar with use they can also be re-sanded to a new surface. Wooden boards can easily harbor bacteria growth both on the surface and in minute cracks, therefore they must be sanitized after each use. Made from laminated strands of the wood of choice you must always keep wooden boards completely dry to avoid the splitting of these laminations. For this reason I don’t recommend them to be placed in a dishwasher.
The most convenient board in my kitchen is one that is made to fit over one side of my double sink with a strainer built into it. This makes food prep a snap and adds additional work space to my very small kitchen. If your setting up your kitchen for the first time you may want to try some inexpensive boards of different materials, shapes and sizes. This will enable you to decide what works best for you before investing in a high quality long lasting board.
National Builder Supply carries a large line of boards by the 2 high quality names in the fixture business, Houzer and Elkay. Visit their website at http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/Results.aspx?dsNav=N:455 to view a choice of 35 boards priced from $57.50 to $260.

Trends in Faucet Finishes...todays avocado green?

While reading through my usual group of discussion forums this morning, a thread was developed about the trendiness of granite countertops and stainless steel appliances. I am, of course at the age when I remember avocado green and harvest gold and how we all raced to redo our kitchens to those colors thinking that they would always be in the vogue. I don’t know if any of you have seen an avocado appliance lately but for my part I can’t believe that we bought it. Likewise remember when kitchen and bath faucets came only in one finish – Chrome? You could have it any finish you wanted as long as it was chrome! Chrome is probably still the choice most people make for both the kitchen and bath today probably because its less expensive and from my viewpoint a lot easier to maintain (have you ever tried to keep fingerprints and grunge from stainless steel?), there are many other newer finishes that are popular with homeowners.
Popular faucet manufacturer, Moen, offers some 20 different colors and finishes and offers that Brushed Nickel has recently assumed the number two spot in consumer preference. Also coming on strong are Old World finishes, including Oil Rubbed Bronze, Antique Nickel and Wrought Iron. It’s estimated that total non-Chrome finishes now represent approximately half of all faucet sales.
Driving the need for a wide variety of finishes are the changing consumer tastes and a desire for individualization in design. Cruising any discussion forum, today, you will find numerous questions and opinions regarding which finish works best. Customers are demanding variety, even when it comes to something that was once taken for granted, such as the finishes of kitchen and bathroom faucets. As they become more educated on the choices, a greater demand is placed on faucet manufacturers to satisfy their needs for options, diverse finishes and styles.
The following are just some of the more popular finishes available today:

1. Chrome: Ever popular, timeless, durable and easy to maintain, it blends with a wide variety of decorating styles.
2. Brushed Nickel: This sleek, upscale, contemporary look is quickly growing in popularity not only for its aesthetic appeal, but also for its durability.
3. Oil Rubbed Bronze: This Old World finish incorporates a copper base with dark brown lowlights to create an authentic weathered finish. But even now manufacturers are having to reformulate their ORB finishes because they have changed with age and have caused many disappointed customers. Also individual manufacturers finish vary making it difficult to match to differing brands.
4. Antique Nickel: A distressed metal appearance creates a highly sought-after, weathered look with striking black and gray accents to create a nostalgic look and feel.
5. Wrought Iron: This dark, elegant finish is reminiscent of years gone by and works well with cherry cabinets and black or stainless appliances.
6. Polished Nickel: Warmer in tone than Chrome, this finish is timeless and coordinates with a variety of décors.
7. Painted Finishes. Although rarer in today’s market there are still available faucets in many different colors to match the kitchen décor. We replaced an “almond” (remember that one?) Kohler with the chrome that we have now.
As consumer demand for personalization increases, finish options will only continue to grow as well as the increased customer demands for products. As the trends change and the old finishes become passé the manufacturers have the opportunity to sell more products even though the existing faucet may be in great working order. Call me old fashioned, but I think I will stick with chrome. It’s timeless, easy to keep clean, goes with everything and less expensive. As to those stainless steel appliances and granite countertops I jumped on the bandwagon for, I guess I will have to keep them until I can afford to donate them to the thrift store with the avocado green ones they replaced. I’ll be back soon with some more words of wisdom but for now I have to go and see of I can wipe this mornings fingerprints off the refrigerator and stove, they are driving me crazy.

http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/?source=RW886 for a great selection of colors and finishes on faucets.

How to Choose a Backsplash

As many of you know, I follow, read and comment on over 30 discussion forums on a daily basis. It seems that one of the more frequent points of discussion and questions today centers around backsplashes and the many choices available today. Apart from all the elements of kitchen design such as faucets, flooring, cabinetry and appliances, another choice to make to improve your kitchen space is the backsplash. Backsplashes are positioned behind the stove and/or sink to make these wall surfaces more durable and easier to keep clean, but today backsplashes do more than protect, they can also serve as a design element bringing character, color, and style to your kitchen. Here are some of the choices to consider today:
1. Paint
Probably the oldest and least expensive way to decorate your backsplash is to simply paint the area. If paint is your choice you should make sure you use a durable paint that will not fade, peel or crack under the stress of heat, grease and constant cleaning. High performance paint will resist stains and require only a wipe with water and mild soap although you can scrub away if you like. High quality paints are often antimicrobial fighting mildew and mold, perfect for all kitchen spaces. Paint can truly transform your walls and protect them as well. All you have to do is choose the color that works best for you and your décor. Additionally you might choose to decorate the painted surfaces with stenciling, striping or other embellishments to make the painted backsplash uniquely yours. If you are concerned with the ultimate durability in the prime areas behind the stove and sink you can cover the painted surfaces with a thin plate of clear plastic such as lexan or glass as I will discuss further down.
2.Ceramic Tile
Glazed ceramic tiles as a backsplash are stronger and obviously easily kept clean. Possibilities are limited only by the vast number of choices available on the market today, choices of colors, textures, and styles. Tiles must be grouted and grout is comes in several color options as well as considering the width of the grout line. Choosing a grout which matches your tile color creates a classic look, where choosing a grout which stands out from your tile color will have a much different effect generally creating a more bold appearance. Depending on your style, grout may be an important consideration. You may choose just to tile behind the stove and sink and maybe just above the countertop edge to make it easier to clean then paint above this saves you time and money and can create yet another look. You can also choose from a huge selection of hand painted tiles and tiles with distinct textures and shapes. You are not locked into the idea of just color or flirting with the danger of making your kitchen look like it is a part of the bathroom. Tiles may be rough or smooth, some can have a more matte finish where others will be sheen and tiles may also not have the same color qualities.
3.Glass Tile
Currently the most popular choice for backsplash materials is glass tiles. Glass tiles can resemble ceramic tiles but are made from glass, many times recycled, and have a transparent or opaque appearance as opposed to the solid color of ceramic. These tiles are available in clear, frosted, linear or iridescent finishes and can even be slip proof for floors. Glass is actually incredibly durable and non-porous making glass a perfect choice for the kitchen and because as I mentioned previously can be made from recycled glass adding an additional “green” element. The downside of glass is that these tiles can be very tricky to cut and very expensive. Installing glass kitchen backsplash tiles is very similar to installing ceramic only your choice of grout color is very important. Since most glass tiles are translucent, imperfections in your grouting job will show through the tile. Since these tiles are translucent, their color will also be affected by your grout color choice therefore it is recommended to use a white grout so that the true color of the tile will show through. Glass 1x1 mosaic tiles are quite expensive running at approximately $30 per sq. ft. where larger glass tile sheets are less. One way to include glass into your backsplash design without blowing your budget is to use smaller glass mosaic boarder sheets. These sheets combine well with ceramic or stone tiles or work well by themselves when applied to a painted backsplash surface.
4.Solid glass or lexan/clear plastic
Another option for kitchen backsplashes is solid glass or lexan panes. Solid pieces of clear or colored glass or plastic can be use to create a luminous like effect. Solid glass can be quite expensive and will show dirt and grime easier however this surface is very easy to keep clean as it is seamless. The lexan may be a less expensive option but is still not cheap.
5.Wall paper
Wall paper has become sort of passé in today’s home what with all of the choices of faux painting and textured surfaces. Call me old fashioned, because after all I am old, but I still like wallpaper and the many designs and colorful choices that it offers. For many years durable vinyl wallpaper was consider the best choice for the backsplash areas and even still can be a great choice in conjunction with the glass/lexan option. Putting a wallpaper under the glass panels can add an additional layer of texture and color to your kitchen.
6.Metallic Backsplashes
Stainless Steel, virtually any sheet metal can be formed into a beautiful kitchen backsplash, but some are much more popular than others. The trendiest product in the backsplash market today is Stainless steel. A 100% recyclable and flexible product which can easily fit into irregular corners and angles Stainless steel is incredibly durable and resists heat and corrosion and since it can be installed seamlessly, this backsplash is incredibly easy to clean and is therefore a hygienic material for the kitchen. Although stainless steel is an attractive material on its own, today this product has been transformed into many different textures, patterns, and finishes resulting in many available choices. Stainless steel backsplashes of course look best when combined with stainless steel appliances, steel counters and backsplashes with hardwood cabinetry. A warning though, just like stainless steel appliances or countertops, the backsplash made of stainless steel can be VERY expensive.
7. Copper, as a backsplash is a way to add warmth and beauty to your kitchen. Like stainless steel, copper is a very durable and flexible product that can be installed seamlessly or in tiles. Copper backsplashes are also available in several styles, textures, patterns and finishes. They can be finger print and tarnish free! Like stainless steel, prepare yourself for financial shock when you get the estimate.
8. Countertop surface can be the simplest choice. You may opt to simply continue the countertop surface, i.e. formica, granite etc onto the backsplash. Some may think of this as lacking in creativity and lack the color and texture contrast but may be easier to accomplish.

By incorporating backsplashes into your kitchen, you can add your own unique style imprint on your work space and improve the design style. You will not regret putting the extra time or money into the backsplash as the results will leave your kitchen looking unique and beautiful.

HOW TO CHOOSE NEW COUNTERTOPS

Well, I have talked, so far, about some things that you can do to improve your kitchen a step at a time as budget allows. I did an article on how to choose a new kitchen faucet, a way to improve not only the look but functionality of your kitchen without spending a lot of money, and the different types of sinks to choose from. In this continuing discussion today I want to talk about counter top surfaces. I consider myself an expert on this subject because I am so old that I have lived and experienced all of the current choices and some I haven’t listed like the “dry sink” we used back in colonial American days when I was a child. OK so I wasn’t around in dry sink days but I was when the “early American” furniture craze was at its height during the 50’s and 60’s and yes my ex-wife and I had an authentic southern pine dry sink in our dining room. She got it in the divorce and because she didn’t know where the kitchen was or what it was used for I doubt that she ever figured out what the dry sink was either. Bitter? Who me? NAH!
I grew up in an old family home in Atlanta where I experienced the first type of counter top, linoleum, and although I mention it I do not advocate in any way the use of it today. The following are the current most frequently used forms of counter surfaces.
1. Linoleum, originally developed as a floor covering somehow it made its way to the tops of counters adding color and durability to the old kitchen. The major problem was if you put a hot pan on it you burned it badly. Additionally it cut easily and so predicated the use of a cutting board. The good part was it was cheap. Linoleum is still available today and if you are a baby boomer, like me, and into the “retro” look you might want to explore it for the kitsch factor.
2. Butcher block was probably the first form of countertop to be used. Beginning with its use in butcher shops and commercial kitchens it made its way into kitchens as a durable and utilitarian surface. No cutting board needed, if it began to look dingy and worn you just simply sanded it down and it looks like new. The down side to butcher block is that it easily breeds bacteria and must be kept sanitarily clean at all times. It also can be VERY expense for a large kitchen.
3. Formica, After World War II with the advent of plastic research, laminated counter top surfaces came into being. More commonly known as “formica”. Formica is a trademarked brand name for the most frequently used counter top surface but laminated products are available from many manufacturers under many names, colors, finishes and surfaces. The upside of laminated surfaces are they can be very good looking, reasonably priced and durable. The downside can be, as with linoleum, burned and cut if used without a cutting board. These can be made a few different ways. Full custom fabricated on either particle board or plywood. Most use particle board with a contact adhesive. Usually your particle board and contact adhesive top will last your a good 15 years or more. The other type is a post formed countertop where they roll the front edge and can also roll the backsplash in a one piece deck. This leaves a nice clean roll on the edge and splash so no grime collects. These are a nice very cheap option to any other materials. I'm sure this is why laminate is the most popular material for countertops still and probably for a long time to come and are the easiest form for the do-it-yourselfer to handle.
4. Stainless steel is the big jump from restaurants to the home kitchen and is primarily for the homeowner that has more money than sense. While stainless makes a beautiful and urable surface for any kitchen it is VERY expensive and anyone that has much experience with it can tell you that it looks great when kept clean but can be a major effort to keep it that way. We have stainless steel appliances in our kitchen and crave, everyday, our old painted appliances back. Stainless shows every fingerprint, spec of dust or grease that comes close to it. If absolutely married to the idea that you want stainless steel for countertops in your kitchen look to using it in just one area where you feel it would be the most functional and in conjunction with a solid surface or stone surface for the rest of your kitchen.
5. Granite is the latest rage in countertops. I like the unique patterns, colors and the pure beauty of granite. Granite can be extremely strong easily broken if not supported properly. This is where a lot of misinformation comes about on granite. A good granite supplier will tell you the advantages of each type of granite. Some are just a nightmare in the kitchen but look wonderful while others are easily stained and must be kept sealed, usually at least annually. That is fine for some people who don't actually use their kitchens other than for show. My ex-wife would love granite for that reason. Granite is porous and will suck in stains and bacteria, this is why we seal it, to closes the pours to reduce the stains and bacteria growth. If you immediately clean the surface you will eliminate problems with either.
6. Solid surface materials are very versatile, less expensive than granite and durable. By definition you can think of the solid surface class of countertops as being man made stone. The most famous and the original product is call “Corian”. When installed the seams can be filled and sanded so that the entire installation is seamless even in corners where you would normally see a mitered section. Additionally if it becomes worn for any reason it can be sand and refinished back to its original beauty. In comparison to granite it is far less expensive, much more durable, easily kept clean and no sealing is necessary. Bacterial has no place to grow with in this material. Stains are almost impossible on this material as well. I feel that these surfaces represent the best value.
7. Engineered stone, this material is almost in the middle of solid surface and granite. Typically 93% quartz and 7% resin binder, this material is at heart a stone. Its mixed together and formed under a giant press with heat to form slabs like granite. It is then processed like granite with the surface polished and then distributed to fabricators the same way granite slabs are. There are even newer versions of this same process that utilizes broken colored glass for the stone chips. This makes a great “green” surface which is colorful and durable. The advantage to this material over granite is the uniformity and the strength of the material. There are no fissures or deformities that could cause it to fail. If it happens to fail most manufactures warranty there material.
8. Ceramic tile is the last on my list and as far as I’m concerned should be on the par with linoleum. Of course it is durable and less expensive than most other options but it is difficult to keep clean. The grout lines porous and subject to staining and bacterial growth and if a tile breaks for any reason it can be a major hassle to replace. I strongly suggest if you opt for ceramic tile that you keep all of the extra tiles left over. If you have to replace a broken or damaged tile the likelihood of finding one that will match color and sometimes size wise might be impossible. It is an easy do it yourself project, I'm assuming why it is still being used.
9. Preformed Concrete, gaining popularity in both kitchens and bathrooms, concrete counter surfaces can be a more affordable choice over stone or solid surface materials. Concrete is durable, seamless and offer a wide variety of colors and almost any shape or design can be accomplished.

I hope this has helped you understand some of your choices for countertop surfaces. As with all of my blog articles I welcome your comments and suggestions for improvement and any questions that you might have

How to choose a Kitchen sink

As I often mention, I monitor and participate in some 30 DIY discussion forums per day. Many of these forums are used to discuss kitchens and bathrooms in new building projects or are on remodeling an existing home. Both have in common the selection process for colors, design, square footage, materials to be used, etc. I will over the next few weeks discuss several aspects of this process and welcome discussion and questions from you, my followers, as to what you would like to hear about next, I have discussed bathroom features such as toilets and shower heads, have talked about how to choose a kitchen or bathroom faucet, even how to hire a plumber. The one thing that I haven’t touched on in any thorough way is the sink and the many decisions that must be made. The sink is an important adjunct to any kitchen, bathroom, laundry room, utility room or even the newest innovation, the outside kitchen. Today we will start with kitchen sinks, the types available and the materials of which they are constructed. The kitchen sink offers us a variety of benefits when it comes to both necessity and convenience and is something that every one of us uses each day. The sink in your home is continuously being used for much of the cooking, as well as for a variety of necessary cleaning tasks that have to be done a on a regular basis. Some of us may feel that we never leave the sink or at least rarely stray far from it. The lasting image of the traditional American housewife is June Cleaver (The Beaver’s mom for you young folks) always standing by the kitchen sink in her fancy dress and never without her pearl necklace. Well my Mom was no June Cleaver so my lasting image of the family kitchen sink was me having to do the dishes. The closest thing we had to a dishwasher was either me or our Collie dog “Zip”. Zip seemed to be much more excited about washing the dishes than I did.
There are a wide variety of styles and designs that are available on the market today .When it comes to the kitchen sink options that you are able to choose from can seem limitless. Depending on the particular color scheme, you will also be amazed at the variety of colors that are available in kitchen sink choices. When it comes to the particular décor of your kitchen, you also have the ability of selecting from several different types of materials. For most of the history of indoor plumbing the kitchen sink was porcelain or enamel coated cast iron. These days the most frequent choice is stainless steel. In addition to stainless steel you can now choose from granite, artificial stone, vitreous china, composite materials and other types of metal. The newest choice becoming popular is copper. All can be tailored to meet your specific needs as to shape, size, and durability. Kitchen sinks are available as single bowl, double bowl, different depths, double sinks with each bowl a different size, under mount, or surface mount and a variation of styles enough to suit most everyone. They are perhaps the most under appreciated and are yet the most used and abused item in the kitchen. They are also designed to be more useful in terms of shape and size . Kitchen sinks are priced from a few hundred dollars to several thousand, depending upon the size, material and features. The World Wide Web has become a handy tool for many homeowners that would like to make their selections in a kitchen sink in the comfort and privacy of their own home. Shopping for your kitchen items on the Internet gives you the added advantage of being able to compare several different styles and unique designs all at the same time, and allows you to easily compare the prices. Of course I believe the best selection of any sink bath or kitchen comes from National Builder Supply, http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/ . When you are ready to start your project please give them a chance to earn your business.

Let’s talk about some of the most popular kitchen sinks installed in homes today:
1. Stainless Kitchen Sinks are the most popular, as they are compatible with type of design, cabinetry or lay-out. Stainless Steel sinks have unbreakable construction and will not chip, are easy to clean, durable and can last for many, many years, are made in many sizes and several thicknesses, measured in gauges. It should be noted that thinner gauge sinks can be prone to denting with hard use. Stainless steel kitchen sinks are available in a variety of price ranges that depend on many factors such as the manufacturer's brand image, the size of the sink, the finish it comes in, and the features it boasts such as double bowl sinks. From a reputable manufacturer stainless steel sinks will cost $300 or more. With today’s emphasis on “green” technology, it should be noted that stainless steel sinks are 100% recyclable. Not only could the new one you buy have come from recycled material it may yet be recycled again someday when you’re done with it.
2. Copper Kitchen Sinks are rare, expensive and are really the choice for homeowners wanting the old world look for their kitchens. Copper made sinks are easy to care for and can be re-polished to create a brighter appearance. They are a great accent to any kitchen or bathroom, but buying one is harder than most of the other styles. These sinks are made from a super-thick copper material and hand-hammered creating art that adds class to any kitchen. Copper is a healthy choice because bacteria cannot grow on it so sinks have a unique anti bacterial quality and thus considered to be a more sanitary choice. Copper sinks have a living finish, their patina ages and improves over time, therefore it resists stains and other discoloration
3. Composite Kitchen Sinks have the advantage of being able to take a lot of wear since they are resistant to denting, cutting, chipping, staining, and are almost completely fade proof. They are available in different depths, shapes and designs. Composite sinks are also developed to be incredibly scratch, impact and heat resistant. The composite material is a man made concoction which may include actual stone chips combined with other materials and resins to create an entirely non-porous surface which can withstand anything. It is one of the most stylish choices and reasonably priced. These composite sinks are most frequently used in conjunction with countertops made of the same material.
4. Stone Kitchen Sinks are made out of granite, marble, travertine and onyx and is a unique piece of art that is hand crafted out of the finest materials nature can offer. Stone sinks are prone to chipping and staining and are usually the most expensive choice. Because of their propensity to stain, these sinks and their matching countertops must be kept chemically sealed, usually at least once per year, In an often heavily used sink this sealing process could be necessary more often.
Because your sink is such an integral part of your day to day life and whether you choose stainless steel, composite, stone or copper be certain to explore the choices well and make an informed decision before you purchase and install your new sink. Sinks can be awkward to install and even more difficult to replace due to sizing and shape and thus can add additional expense to your project over and above the cost of the sink itself.

ShowHouse from Moen...the newest line featured by National Builder Supply

From time to time I have tried to give you more information on the specific products that National Builder Supply offers to its consumers. They strive to provide a full line of quality merchandise covering the gamut from reasonably priced plumbing products to the ultimate in luxury items all featuring unique style and selection. The bottom line is that regardless of your budget or personal style preference you can find it at National Builder Supply.
I have also been a strong proponent of the newest in “green” technology and the overall idea that we in the world are going to have to do more to try to reverse the current trend towards global warming, worldwide pollution, the depletion of our natural resources and ,as we in the Atlanta area have recently suffered, the severe shortage of usable water. In doing some research for the newest product line added to the NBS product line, ShowHouse by Moen, I ran across this press release from last year that not only includes information about ShowHouse but also passes along some great ideas for adapting “green living” to your everyday life.

STYLE WITH A CONSCIENCE
Glamorize your Green Décor
North Olmsted, Ohio… Functional used to be the best word to describe “green” home design and décor. But, luckily, “green” has been undergoing a glamorous transformation. With more demand for environmentally friendly products, designers and manufacturers are introducing upscale and luxurious options that prove stylish and ‘good for the earth’ can go hand in hand.
According to Judy Riley, vice president of design at Moen, “Eco-inspired home décor products have become more beautiful and elegant. With so many great materials and choices available, you’ll be able to decorate stylishly, while making a difference for our planet.” Here are some of her tips on getting started:
Green Foundation
Build an eco-friendly room from the ground up. 100-percent recycled floor tiles made of materials such as rich recycled leather, provide a fashionable and environmentally responsible alternative to chemically-treated rugs and manmade flooring.
Riley suggests asking for products made from rapidly renewable resources, such as fast-growing bamboo. “This wood-like flooring offers great design, yet requires no replanting and little fertilization or pesticides,” she said. Another choice is cork, which is harvested from the bark of a cork oak tree - without harming the tree. It provides a soft, cushioned floor under foot, making it ideal for high traffic areas or rooms needing some sound-proofing.
New carpeting is available to suit all styles and tastes, so look for those that are biodegradable and chemical-free. Made from hemp, linen, wool or cotton, they come in a range of colors made from natural dyes. The Ethos Company uses a rubber backing made from recycled windshield wipers while the Bicicleta brand of carpeting has backing made from recycled bicycle tires.
Wise Walls
Sherwin-Williams and other paint companies have recently introduced water-based and low VOC paints such as the Harmony line with soft, nature-inspired hues, to combat the environmental hazards often caused by chemical-laden paints. In addition, wall paper manufacturer, Phillip Jeffries, is now producing alternative home wall coverings made from earth-friendly materials, like hemp, linen, bamboo, cork and recycled paper. Stylish, sophisticated and natural, these wall coverings are anything but ordinary.
But Riley recommends something more adventurous. “For a unique look that combines color and texture, try American Clay Plaster,” she said. “This blend of pure clay and non-toxic pigment transforms any wall surface. An array of colors can be created with different tints and finishes that appear smooth, rustic or even Old World.”
Faucet Flow
Homeowners waste gallons of water every day leaving the faucet running while washing their hands and performing other tasks at the sink. But, new hands-free electronic faucets, like the Destiny™ powder room faucet from ShowHouse® by Moen®, conserve water while reflecting your personal style. With a sleek minimalist design and a distinctly-styled spout that produces a sheeting water flow, the Destiny faucet reduces water waste, providing water only when it is needed. “Make the switch to hands-free and watch your style quotient go up as your daily water usage goes down – a win-win situation for you and the environment,” said Riley.
Tankless water heaters are another great solution for home energy savings. Similar to the hands-free faucet, these systems heat water only when needed. In many cases, this can add up to a significant energy savings – more than 20 percent each year. Plus, tankless heaters reduce the amount of carbon dioxide released into the atmosphere as well.
Window to Tomorrow
High-efficiency, large-scale windows let more daylight in the home and decrease the need for electrical lighting. But, large scale windows can sometimes call for large, expensive and resource-consuming window treatments. For a great green option, forgo window treatments altogether and install frosted glass panes throughout your home. To supplement natural lighting, replace energy-wasting incandescent light bulbs with energy-efficient fluorescent lighting fixtures.
Furniture Faux Pas
Each year, millions of furniture items are dumped at landfills, polluting the environment and wasting precious space. “Consider holding a garage sale or donating to Good Will or other charitable organizations,” suggests Riley. ”You can also shop at your local flea market or antique store and do your part in helping to recycle old items while finding unique shabby chic treasures that are no longer in production.”
If new furniture is a must, look for pieces created from a single piece of rapidly renewable wood. For couches and chairs, look to companies that produce sustainable selections such as Lee Industries. The company’s Natural Lee sofas are made from recycled plastic bottles and use soy and water-based finishes.

As ‘going green’ continues to gain momentum, it’s easier than ever before to make a style statement in your home while still having a conscience.
For information on the Destiny faucet and many other beautiful products from ShowHouse by Moen, visit http://www.nationalbuidersupply.com/.

HOW TO INSTALL A NEW LIGHT FIXTURE or how to avoid a near death experience in 6 easy steps!

In my recent blog concerning the installation of a new shower head I told you about my lifetime friend Mike Hennecy and his plumbing ability and cited his method for changing out a shower head to make your life better and to dress up your bathroom without spending a lot of money. I WILL NOT be using Mike’s expertise for this blog. You see Mike and electricity do not mix. Mike maybe one of the few people that have avoided death by electrocution both from trying to do home electrical work and additionally having been struck by lightning twice and survived. The last time the lightning actually looked around for him and struck him in his garage. So now when ever he talks about changing a light bulb or a light fixture or even turning on a light by himself, Dianne, his wife of soon to be 46 years, calls me, a local electrician or the insurance agent to make sure his life insurance is paid up. So today we’re going discuss how to properly change out a light fixture the right way not the HENNECY way.
The real purpose of many of my blogs are to further your ideas for improving your home without spending a fortune. You can change the entire look of a room with some paint and a new light fixture, brighten a hallway by changing out a drab little ceiling fixture, change the curb appeal by dressing up the exterior with new fixtures, make your bathroom brighter and look new with different vanity lights, or finish off a simple kitchen remodel by getting rid of that old 1970’s fluorescent light fixture. As I featured in an earlier blog National Builder Supply is a Progress Lighting dealer (http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/Results.aspx?dsNav=N:1060 ) with over 1700 beautiful fixtures in stock and ready for immediate free delivery on purchases over $100 and their usual unmatched customer service. Begin this new adventure by looking around your house and decide what you would like to change and choose a new fixture. When the fixture arrives follow these simple steps:
1. Unlike Mike, locate and turn off the circuit breaker that controls the individual circuit to the fixture you want to replace. Why the breaker and not just the light switch? Your home’s electrical system is actually a closed loop system of wiring which loops from one box to another and many of the boxes have a continuing live or “hot” wire in the box which is not turned off by the individual switch. If you only turn off the switch you may easily come in touch with a hot wire in the box and create the “Hennecy Effect”, which usually results in injury or possibly a near death experience.
2. Remove your old fixture. This may involve removing the glass globe by loosening the set screws around the base. Make sure that you hold the globe with one hand while loosening these screws. Next remove the light bulb(s) and there should be a single screw in a slot in the fixture base or on the end of a threaded rod which holds the base to the ceiling or wall. When this screw is removed you should be able to pull the base away from the ceiling or wall and find the wiring. Don’t panic there are only 2 wires you need to worry about. And possibly a ground wire which I will also discuss.
3. If your house is less than 100 years old you will find at least 2 wires, 1 white 1 black attached to the same colored wires from the fixture base. If your home is older you may have cloth covered wiring from the system attached to the black and white wires on the fixture, If this is the case, mark the wire from the house to the black wire on the fixture with a piece of black electrical tape, if you have it, or use simple masking tape. This will allow you to know which wire is which when you get ready to mount the new fixture.
4. Now disconnect the wiring from the fixture to the house wiring. This will entail either removing the plastic “wire nuts” which hold the wires together or remove the black electrical tape which is wrapped around the wires and untwist them. If you have wire nuts set them aside for reuse, if electrical tape discard it and use the “wire nuts” that should be with the new fixture. It is best to discard the old wire nuts and use new ones. If new ones are not available then inspect the old ones for damage before reusing them.
5. Now this will be the hardest part, READ THE MANUFACTURERS DIRECTIONS FOR ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION of the new fixture, Each new fixture will be different in how they are assembled and the steps you must follow to have it ready to hang.
6. Once you have these instructions well read and followed , the only thing you have left to do is, using wire nuts, reconnect the wiring, black to black, white to white that were all together. 99 percent of the time they are white some times a red wire will be included to the bunch either way if you took note when you removed the old light you know where the white wire was. Sometimes you find a fixture has more than one socket for the bulbs. When this happens just attach all the black wires to each other and all the white wires to each other. If a green wire (ground) is present then reconnect it as you found it on the old fixture or attach it to the mounting cross bracket with the small green screw on the bracket. You may want to wrap your wire nuts with black electrical tape as a further precaution to assure the circuit is well insulated Carefully push the wiring up into the electrical box behind the mounting bar and continue with the manufacturers instructions on mounting the fixture. Install your new light bulbs and turn your circuit breaker back on and you’re done.

How To Install a New Shower Head, Without Loosing Your Head

As many of you that follow my blogs know, I am retired and disabled and have sang the praises of my TOTO ADA height toilet that makes life so much better for an ole guy like me. It seems like such a simple thing yet it does make so much difference on a day to day basis as to the quality of my life which has suffered considerably since becoming ill. In this regard I recently acquired another device that has improved my daily life and comfort, a simple item that most of us probably take for granted and never think about changing or exploring the wide variety on the market. I got a new showerhead. All of my life I have just taken a shower in the many homes I’ve owned and paid no attention whatsoever to the device that the water was coming from. I vaguely remember years ago someone giving me an aftermarket “massaging” shower head that I could never figure out how to use and never had installed and it became what these days people refer to as a “regift”. In other words I gave it to someone else. In my current condition I suffer constantly with stiffness, tightness and general joint pain all caused by just being as old as dirt and additionally due to the Parkinsons disease. I had read an article that said a “whirlpool” bath would give me some relief but I don’t have the financial resources for a new bath tub plus I live in a rental so it would be unfeasible to install a new bath tub. With these thoughts in mind my best friend of 42 years, Mike Hennecy, came up with the idea that maybe a new “hand held” massaging shower head would do the trick for me and he got me one and installed it. I now have to admit that if I could install a flat screen TV and a microwave in my bathroom I would just stay in there. I have the great comfortable toilet and a shower head that makes me feel wonderful. Thankfully my laptop computer is o a WIFI, another new fangled device that I have recently discovered, so I am already set up for having the computer in the bathroom with me. That’s probably too much information for you readers because you now will imagine that I am sitting on my TOTO toilet writing this article. That will just have to be kept as our little secret.
As it ends up replacing my old shower head was probably the easiest thing I could have done to improve my bathroom both in utility and esthetics. It was particularly easy for me because Mike installed it while I watched! It occurred to me, while I assisted, by staying out of his way, that my readers might need to know how to do it yourself. I watched what Mike did and report here now the 4 easy steps to replacing your existing shower head.
1. Go to the National Builder Supply website (http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/Results.aspx?dsNav=N%3a35-402) and choose one that works best for you from their 81+ piece selection of reasonably priced devices from approximately $20 to over $300. Something for everyone’s taste and budget.
2. The most difficult part of this process is removing your old shower head. The shower head is usually mounted on a slightly curved piece of chrome or plated pipe which seems to just miraculously appear from out of your shower wall. In reality this pipe is probably simply screwed into another pipe hidden in the wall and the head is then screwed onto the end of this pipe. If not careful while trying to unscrew the old shower head you will unscrew the pipe instead and then you will have a real problem. To keep this from happening you must use 2 wrenches, one to hold the pipe in place, the other to unscrew the shower head. A great trick to keep from scratching your pipe and making it easier to hold on to is to wrap the pipe with an old belt or piece of scrap leather and use this to isolate your wrench from the pipe. If you wet the leather it will hold even better. With your pipe then securely held in place use your other wrench to remove, counter clockwise, the old shower head and install the new one. I know this will go against everything you DIY’ers out there believe but you should also read the manufacturers instructions for installing the new shower head to make sure they haven’t included some sneakiness into their product. Go ahead, bite the bullet and read and follow the instructions.
3. Now you are ready to install the new shower head. Wrap the pipe threads with Teflon pipe tape and screw the new head on, hand tightened should be adequate but if after checking for leaks you may want to tighten it with your wrench. Remember that just as you did when removing the old head you will still need to keep the shower pipe immobilized. You may want to use the leather trick on the new head also to keep from scratching it if you use the wrench.
4. Make a visual check to see that the head is on straight, that it doesn’t leak and works as it should. These shower heads come with an adjustment device built into the shower head that allows you to change from a soft misting shower to a hard pulsing feel. Play with this adjustment and see what you think will work best for you. Now you’re ready, try it out. You will wonder, as I did, how you’ve done without it all of your life.

THE NEW TOILET HAS ARRIVED AND IS SITTING IN THE GARAGE, NOW WHAT?

Well you took my advice and decided to go “green” and bought one of those new fandangled Toto toilets. You went all the way, you bought the Ultra Max that uses the least amount of water per flush, you paid a little extra and got the “sana gloss” coating to make it easier to clean, you got the soft self closing lid feature to satisfy the wife and now your feeling very proud of yourself. So now the big decision… do you increase your pride by installing it yourself? Or do you buckle under and call “Joe the Plumber” and see if he has given up politics and is back to doing plumbing?
Well if you’re like me you’ll give it the old college try and install it yourself so the following are some simple step by step simple instructions on how to install a toilet. Frankly I went to college to be an accountant not a plumber so my college knowledge may not get us far.
1. Make sure everyone in the family uses the bathroom before you get started. A lot of pressure can be exerted on you by your wife and family asking every 5 minutes “can they use it yet?” and the kids doing that cute little dance they do when you know they need to go NOW!
2. We discussed in another blog here that you should have a shut off valve on each plumbing fixture. The one for your existing toilet should be under the bowl somewhere in the water line that comes out of the bottom of the toilet and then travels through the wall or down through the floor. SHUT THIS VALVE OFF.
3. Now with no water possibly coming into the tank and to make sure you turned the valve in the proper direction, FLUSH THE TOILET, allowing the tank to empty and notice that it does not refill. If it refills then either you haven’t turned the water off properly or you have created a miracle toilet which produces its own water.
4. With all the water out of the tank, use a sponge, rags, old towels or paper towels to completely dry out the tank and the bowl. Probably best not to use your wife’s best guest towels for this part of the job. You want this to be dry otherwise you will potentially have water everywhere as you remove and move the old toilet around and out to the curb or into the front yard for that unique planter you always wanted by the front door.
5. With a wrench, disconnect the water line under the tank.
6. You probably have a 2 piece toilet so disconnect the tank from the bowl and remove the tank.
7. The toilet is held down usually by 4 bolts that are under the decorative caps around the base of the toilet. Remove the nuts that connect the toilet to the bolts.
8. The toilet has been sealed to the floor with a wax ring and possibly some caulking so you will need to rock the toilet bowl back and forth and exert some gentle leveraging to break this seal and to free the toilet. Remove the bowl.
9. As I have discussed in a previous blog there is a danger as well as some real uncomfortable sewer smells that will seep out of the drain hole that is now exposed so save yourself the problem and immediately stuff some old rags into the hole to block this seepage. Be careful to not stuff the rags too far down the pipe to prevent a very difficult clog when you are through.
10. Clean the floor of any old caulking and clean the drain hole of any residual wax from the old ring. Remove the old hold down bolts and install the new ones that came with the new toilet.
11. Turn the bowl upside down and install the new wax ring. Please note for the best seal this ring should be at room temperature. If you have decided to put down a new floor while you had the toilet out you may have to use 2 wax rings to bring the level of the toilet to the level of the new floor.
12. REMOVE THE RAGS FROM THE DRAIN AND place the toilet onto the mounting screws and on top of the flange around the drain hole. Check for level with a level. If you install the toilet unlevel you may prevent it from working properly. You can correct the level by using non-rusting washers around the flange bolts.
13. Before screwing the toilet bowl down with the flange bolts refer to your manufacturers directions for any special instructions that may be peculiar to your specific toilet.
14. To recap, you have the new wax ring installed, new flange bolts in place, you have removed the rags from the drain hole, and you have the toilet level. Now gently rock the toilet from side to side to make the best seal. You may even want to sit down on it to exert pressure to make sure the wax ring makes good contact and a good tight seal.
15. VERY IMPORTANT! Its time to screw the toilet down to the flange by placing washers and nuts onto the bolts and tightening them down. You should only screw them down hand tight at first then adjust the tightness of each bolt one at a time a little at a time on each bolt until they are all snug. Do not over tighten and make sure that each are tighten evenly. If you over tighten or tighten them unevenly you risk a real chance of cracking the bowl.
16. Using the parts that came with the toilet mount the tank to the bowl. If you purchased a 1 piece toilet this step will not be necessary. Reattach the water lines, turn the shut off valve back on to check for leaks. At this time the tank should automatically fill and once filled test flush to make sure it works properly and that there are no leaks from around the toilet base that would indicate an improper seal. If there is no leak caulk around the base and the floor to make a clean installation.
17. Install your toilet seat and put the lid on the tank and you are DONE!
18. Remove the old toilet parts and start on that fancy new front yard planter or how about maybe on the patio?

NATIONAL BUILDER SUPPLY IS THE NEWEST DEALER FOR HOUZER SINKS AND ACCESORIES..."SINKS FOR LIFE!!"

HOUZER Premium Stainless Steel Sinks are the culmination of over thirty years of expertise in manufacturing stainless steel sinks and are found in millions of residences across the U.S. and around the world. Houzer’s commitment to research & development, consumer trends, ergonomic design, and leading edge manufacturing techniques have allowed them to create a selection of today's most popular designs, as well as introducing future trends before their competition.
HOUZER pairs elegantly styled designs with premium materials. Special attention to detail has earned a sterling reputation throughout the industry, and their products are designed for long lasting beauty with minimal care, even in the busiest of kitchens.

When choosing a sink for your kitchen or bath here are a few frequently asked questions for you to consider:
1. Why are stainless steel sinks so popular? Stainless steel holds the highest ranking in material choice for kitchen sinks for a good reason: with minimal care, the sink can look like new for a very long time. HOUZER sinks have a superior grain and polish compared to most brands on the market.
2. Aren't all makes and models made alike? No. HOUZER uses premium Type 304 Stainless Steel on all models.Chrome increases the hardness and wear-resistance of your sink, and Nickel increases the strength and resilience to dents.HOUZER only uses premium 18/8-10 mix (18% Chrome and 8-10% Nickel); some inferior brands use "Type 300", which has a higher chance of rusting eventually.
3. What does the term "Gauge" mean and why should I care? Gauge is an measurement range of the thickness of steel used. The lower the number, the thicker the steel. HOUZER sinks range all the way up to 18 and 16 gauge Most premium brands on the market today range from 20 to 18 gauge.
4. If two brands are made of the same gauge steel, won't they have the same strength? Not necessarily.Most HOUZER Under mount models have a proprietary design improvement called SpecPlusTM Edge which increases the structural rigidity and strength across the entire span of the sink. This is a key concern especially when the design is a double or triple bowl. This process means less flex, more strength.
5. Is undercoating important? Yes. Proper and well appointed under coatings will aid in noise reduction, condensation prevention, and maintaining the water temperature when pre-soaking dishes.
6. Do all sinks have sound absorption? No. HOUZER sinks have sound absorption rubber pads on all models, and fortified with Stoneguard Undercoating on top of the rubber pads on most models. HOUZER sinks are among the quietest sinks available today, fully insulated from the noise of clanging dishes, pots, and pans.
7. What makes HOUZER so special? HOUZER offers the widest selection of premium level sinks at moderate prices unlike any other brand, the result of over thirty years experience manufacturing sinks for many of today's popular brands.
8. Are HOUZER sinks Warranteed? And for how long? Yes. For as long as you own your residence. Simply fill out the Warranty Registration card that comes with every sink.

Still have questions? Start by viewing the latest selection of Houzer products on the National Builder Supply website then consult with one of our friendly helpful customer service staff with any questions.

How to hire a contractor or 10 easy steps to avoid a nervous breakdown

I write this article with some real specific experience on dealing with contractors and their subs. I have, in the past 30 years, had built 3 homes and renovated probably 10. With each of these projects I learned more and more lessons and with each asked my friends and family just to take a gun and shoot me if I ever even spoke of doing either again. My last experience in having a home built ended in a major cost overrun which taught me the legal lesson of the difference between the words “will” and “should”. You see my iron clad contract which made all of the provisions I requested and guaranteed the finished price stated that the final price “SHOULD NOT EXCEED X $$”. $40,000 later I discovered it should have said, “WILL NOT EXCEED X $$”. The word “will” affirming the agreement while the word “should” infers some sense of a possibility of the price changing and changing it did ending in a final demand by the contractor for the aforementioned $40,000 before I could move into the home.
While most home contractors out there are legitimate and do great work, the list of nightmare contractors is long and represents thousands of lost dollars and a myriad of disappointments. To avoid hiring the contractor from hell I offer the following advice:
1. Make plans
Before you begin your process of locating, interviewing, investigating and hiring a contractor you should have a completed set of plans for your project including detailed drawings and specifications. Without these plans in place you are asking a tradesman to bid on a nebulous non specific job and you are asking for trouble. A conscientious contractor will want not only a complete set of blueprints but also a sense of what homeowners want out of a project and what they plan to spend. Once these plans are in place, stick to them. Making changes to plans after work begins could lead to cost overruns and delays.
2. Get recommendations
Start with your friends, family and neighbors. Check with the national associations of the trade that you wish to hire for a list of members in your area, Angie’s List, which is an on going internet site which lists real personal recommendations and warnings in your specific area, and maybe check an individual business with the Better Business Bureau. I hesitate to mention the BBB because this is an organization of paid members which in some cases may also skew their results.
In smaller areas you may also talk with a building inspector, who should know which contractors routinely meet code requirements and may be able to give you advice regarding code requirements. Visit your local building supply or hardware store, they know the local contractors and which ones have the best reputations. Although most of the big box stores do have professionals that either they recommend or that they can sell you the services of, remember they are being recommended because of an existing relationship with the store. The store is likely making a profit on your transaction and thus their opinion may be skewed. In some cases you may have recourse back to the store but make sure that is the case and be aware that this arrangement may cause your cost to be higher. I have heard many horror stories about the contractor who was hired through the retailer only to disappoint the customer and satisfaction only coming after considerable effort if at all.
3. Call your prospective Contractors
Now that you have a list of possible contractors, consider that you are an employer interviewing a prospective employee. Make calls to each of your prospects and ask them the questions that you feel are important to you which should include the following:
•Do they take on projects of your size?
•Are they willing to provide references from suppliers or banks?
•Will they give you a list of previous clients? Remember, though, they are not going to give you names of dissatisfied customers so you are going to have to do some of your own research on their work.
•How many other projects do they typically have going at the same time?
•Do they maintain their own tradesmen or do they have to depend on subcontractors? If they have to use subs you may be put in a position of having to research their reputations as well. Sub contractors can be the weakest link in the chain of getting your project done and are the easiest excuse your contractor can use for a lack of progress or delays on your job. It is important, therefore, that the contractor have a good relationship with his subs and is good with his scheduling of those subs.
These answers should give you an idea of the company's availability, reliability, how much attention they'll be able to give your project and how smoothly the work will go.
4. Invite them over to see your job
Once you have made these phone calls, pick three or four contractors to show them your proposed project, to obtain an estimate and for further discussion and questions. A contractor should be able to answer your questions satisfactorily and in a manner that puts you at ease. It’s important that you feel comfortable with the contractor you choose, that you communicate well and that you have a sense of trust. Remember this person and their crews will be in your home for hours at a time.
5. Build trust by verifying the facts
Call up former clients to find how their project went and ask if you can see the finished job. Ask if they know of other customers of this contractor so that you can find additional references that didn’t come from the contractor himself. You should ask to see a current job site and see for yourself how the contractor works. Is the job site neat and safe? Are workers courteous and careful with the homeowner's property and is this homeowner happy, so far, with his results?
6. Demand proof of proper licensing and insurance.
Make sure the contractor is licensed to do business in your state and that he has proper general liability and workers-compensation insurance. Learn the requirements in your state and verify that contractor is licensed.
7. Get bids
To compare bids, ask everyone to break down the cost of materials, labor, profit margins and other expenses. Generally materials account for 40 percent of the total cost; the rest covers overhead and the typical profit margin, which is 15 to 20 percent. Don't let price be your guide. I believe, that as hard as it is to do, you should disregard the lowest bid especially if it is significantly lower than the others. A bid like this can usually point to a desperate contractor or a major mistake in his calculations. Even though you may have the law on your side to enforce this contract you still will be burdened with the legal costs and efforts to win and you may end up with a project left unfinished or poorly completed. These situations may be more frequent as a sign of our current unhealthy economy. Beyond technical competence, comfort should play an equal or greater role in your decision. The single most important factor in choosing a contractor is how well you and he communicate. All things being equal, it's better to spend more and get someone you're with whom you are comfortable.
8. Discuss and agree upon a payment schedule
Payment schedules can also speak to a contractor's financial status and work ethic. If they want half the bid up front, they may have financial problems or be worried that you won't pay the rest after you've seen the work. For large projects, a schedule usually starts with 10 percent at contract signing, three payments of 25 percent evenly spaced over the duration of the project and a check for the final 15 percent when you feel every item on the punch list has been completed. In no circumstances should you exceed an initial payment of 30% as a down payment and even then only upon the delivery and acceptance, by you, of the all of materials.
9. Put it in writing/Obtain a contract
Draw up a contract that details every step of the project: the payment schedule as above; proof of liability insurance and worker's compensation, if a contractor does not have proper workers compensation insurance your home owners insurance or you personally may be held as liable; a start date and projected completion date; specific materials and products to be used; and a requirement that the contractor obtain lien releases (which protect you if he doesn't pay his bills) from all subcontractors and suppliers. Insisting on a clear contract isn't mistrust, it's about insuring a successful project.
10. Pay by check or if possible by credit card.
The use of a credit card gives you the leverage to charge back any disputed charges. If paying by check write it out to the contracting company rather than to an individual. Make final payments only when the work is completed to your satisfaction. A reputable contractor will not threaten you or pressure you to sign documents if the job is not finished properly.

Will these steps prevent problems? Yes. Is there still a chance that something will fall between the cracks and you will become the victim of a bad contractor? Yes. So practice vigilance. Be aware of what’s going on with your job and insist that problems be corrected as they happen. Don’t fall into a false sense of security and think that it will all be OK. Remember the first principle of “Murphy’s Law”….If any thing can go wrong, it will!!!

DANZE…… STYLE AND SUBSTANCE AT AN AFFORDABLE PRICE

DANZE is the fastest-growing plumbing company in America and when teamed with National Builder Supply we are able to bring the latest styles to market – all backed by the highest quality and world-class customer service at a price to fit your budget.

DANZE’s products are beautifully made, inside and out, representing the pinnacle of both style and design while offering something for every taste and every home. It is art that is designed to be used while offering years of beautiful lustrous finishes, utilizing solid brass waterways and ceramic disc valves which provide a drip-free guarantee. DANZE brings unique design solutions to homeowners who are driven by quality and attention to detail in their home furnishings. All of this and the best pricing on the American market today.




As a major dealer of DANZE quality products, for over 5 years, National Builder Supply maintains a constant inventory of over 1000 items valued at over $350,000. Our inventory contains 21 designs suites and over 370 different items such as:



Air Gaps
Hand Showers
Body Sprays
Robe Hooks
Faucet Extension Kits
Shower Arms
Faucet Valves
Shower Heads
Bar Faucets
Supply Elbows
Bathroom Sink Faucets
Tank Levers
Bidet Faucets
Toilet Paper Holders
Kitchen Sink Faucets
Towel Bars
Laundry Faucets
Towel Rings
Pantry Faucets
Tub Spouts
Pot Filler Faucets
Waste/Overflow Drains
Tub and Shower Faucets
And much, much more





















This commitment to DANZE products guarantees you immediate availability and making it possible for us to ship your choices quickly, usually the same day, and as always offering free shipment on orders over $100.

Visit the National Builder Supply Website to review all of the beautiful DANZE products and see for yourself the how the style and substance can had beauty to your home.

FINALLY!! A FAUCET JUST FOR MAKING GRITS...ok so you can use it for pasta or veggies or stock, whatever that is

As I have mentioned in many of my blogs and “ezine” articles, in the past few weeks, more and more of the homes being built and remodeled, today, are including things commonly found in commercial kitchens. First it was the large “Sub Zero” type refrigerator, then the commercial styled multiple (up to 6) burner gas ranges, double ovens and heavy duty and sometimes multiple dishwashers. At this point I should say that many of these features are wonderful even for the small home especially of you enjoy cooking and entertaining. I don’t fall into that category, the best thing I make for dinner is reservations.
I lived, for over 8 years during the 1980’s, in Los Angeles. While there one of the homes I owned was a large (10,000 sq. ft., that’s large to me) house in the Hollywood Hills that was built in 1929. Before I bought it, a complete remodel of many of the features of the house had been undertaken. Not only did it have a Sub Zero refrigerator it had 2 that were built side by side. I’m a poor boy from the south. After coming up with the money to buy the house I didn’t know how we would ever have enough groceries to fill both of those fridges. The kitchen also included Corian countertops, (the state of the art in solid surface materials at that time), double dishwashers, multiple sinks all over the kitchen, 3 wall ovens, and 2 countertop gas 4 burner cook tops for a total of 8 burners. These things were rare and only found in the larger homes. Although at the time I bought the house I could have never envisioned needing all of that, during the time we lived there we held a wedding for close friends with over 300 guests (the bride also wanted live swans swimming in my pool...that’s where I drew the line) and at least one July 4th party at which we welcomed over 200 of my “closest friends”(that’s California speak for any and everyone you know or have ever met). It was then that I realized why people who do a lot of entertaining want and need the big kitchen. Even if your home is only the designated holiday destination for your families, the convenience of having the extra room and additional appliance capability can be worthwhile. By today’s standards that big old house of mine would not even phase most people and in fact would have probably been completely torn out and remodeled in the last 5 years to bring it up to date.
The modern day version of this house would have replaced the Corian with granite or something even more exotic, large commercial ranges, elaborate faucets and fixtures and now the pot filler faucet can be added to the list of things that are starting to become mainstream in kitchens. A pot filler faucet is a great idea for your kitchen. Large pots fill quickly. The pot filler faucet swings out of the way when not in use. These articulated arm faucets save your back and eliminate probably 50 percent of the work when it comes to carrying water from the sink to your stove. With a pot filler faucet over your stove, you never have to carry a pot full of water again saving wear and tear on you. Water is actually heavy. One gallon weighs a little over eight pounds. This means you might need 2 or 3 gallons or maybe 20 lbs of water to boil a large pot of pasta. During holidays, the last thing you want is to be worn out from hauling water from the sink to the stove leaving you plenty of time to work out in your private gym or to go out and run that habitual holiday marathon race, or maybe just give you more time to spend with your guests and families. As a confirmed bachelor for some 30 years I depend on Fran Byrd from the National Builder Supply home office for a woman’s opinion. She rarely gets credit for her help and many quotes, so today I’m going to pass on a woman’s opinion not just mine, of the pot filler faucet... “As far as pot fillers go, they are wonderful. Especially for those big stock pots. You know how heavy those things can be empty but you fill it with water and you need to call for help just to get it over to the stove. I am sure you know that the pot filler is mounted above or in the deck of the counter beside the stove and hooks to the cold water (since we all know cold water boils faster) then you can fill that big ole pot right there on the stove”. My response…what’s a stock pot???.
Most plumbers would have no problems installing a pot filler faucet, if he does its time to get a different plumber. Most pot fillers require only one cold water supply line. This line can usually be installed in 30 minutes or less in most homes under construction. It may be more difficult when remodeling an existing kitchen depending on accessibility to existing water lines and the wall behind your stove may necessitate some cutting and patching. Many times the water lines can be run through the back of the existing cabinets (like ice maker lines are retrofitted). The location of the pipe that feeds the pot filler faucet is very critical. If this pipe is not in the correct location, the faucet may be too low or it might not fold back completely against the wall. You will need dimensions, such as the height of the cook top burners above the finished height of the countertop and the height of your tallest pot. When added together, these dimensions tell you the minimum height above the countertop the tip of the faucet must be then add another inch to be safe.
Now its time to choose the faucet you want. Style, finish, price, etc are all things to consider. The faucet pictured above is the Danze #D205358 this item is part of the (Parma) Series priced starting at $172.60 at National Builder Supply. You should also make sure the faucet you choose has two separate on and off valves to prevent any damage that might be caused by a drippy faucet and remind your plumber that you want a separate shut off valve for the water line to the pot filler. Once you’ve made your choice make sure the dealer or manufacturer provide all of the technical info you need and provide instructions for installation. Then you’re ready for the installation and all set to cook your first pot of pasta, or grits if you are at my house. Ill have mine with cheese, butter and maybe some diced ham, thank you. A recipe for good southern grits can be yours for the asking.

LOOKS LIKE WE WONT BE NEEDING THAT SEARS BIG CATALOG ANYMORE

Those of you who follow my writings and blogs know that I wrote a brief blog last month on the most expensive toilet on the market place today. Well expensive if you don’t include the diamond encrusted gold plated Los Angeles nouveau riche models. Well I’m just a poor boy from the south and my family was more “oldeau riche”, which means we had both the Sears AND the Montgomery Wards catalogs in our outhouse. No corn cobs for my family…we had money! I never knew what a bidet was until I went to Europe the first time after graduating from high school and Im sure that at that time I wasn’t the first to try to sit on the darn thing and fall in. Even till to today I’m not sure how they really work. Now the big high end homes in America today not only have granite countertops, stainless steel appliances AND Grohe faucets, they have bidets If they are REALLY expensive they have the TOTO Neorest Toilet that combines the best of self warming, self opening and closing seats but the comforts of a bidet (no toilet paper needed) and messages your delicate parts and probably can be programmed to play the top 40 songs this week in Tokyo. They are also remote controlled so you can preprogram the temperature of the washing water, and the seat and probably the 60” plasma screen TV hanging in front of the toilet in the bathroom which is larger in square footage than my first house.
Now for those of us that just can’t afford either physically, emotionally, financially or psychologically a $5200 toilet, TOTO is manufacturing the mini version, No its not a tiny toilet its just a replacement seat that does all the things that the big boy does for maybe 10 to 20% of the cost. Its called the WASHLET. Just to let you know, the WASHLET allows you to have a bidet and a toilet all in one. They are on all the public toilets in Japan and are simply amazing, if I may say so myself. So that means they should just fit my house perfectly! Back in the day you would need another plumbing line to install a bidet, you would need to get off the toilet and move yourself over to the bidet, adjust the water temp and then let it wash you, you would then need to towel yourself dry (so that’s how those things work). The WASHLET has taken this to another level. It attaches to your toilet just like a seat and installation is a breeze. This thing has a heated seat, heated water with temp control so you can adjust it to your own likings, it has a wand that extends from the back of it and washes you. It has several different spray patterns and massage features making it ideal for anyone. On the 200 and 300 there is also a heated air dryer that will dry you off so no towel or paper is ever involved, that adds to the "green" factor. No that doesn’t mean it leaves green stuff growing on your bottom, it means you save trees by not using toilet paper. They are great for the elderly (that’s me), the handicapped (that’s me too) and for just the plain self indulgent. It allows the elderly and handicapped to be more independent and the self indulgent to indulge more?? I think it would be a great idea as a gift for an elderly parent, relative or friend that may be infirm (you can put me on your list).

Here are some of the features and benefits of the 2 most popular models along with NBS pricing:

E200 $563.16

Newly Designed, a Revolution in Hygiene
Adjustable Heated Water Tank
Adjustable Rear and Front Washers
Adjustable Warm Air Dryer
Convenient Remote Control Oscillating Comfort Wash
Curved Rear case fits more French Curve Toilets (that’s the fancy modern style with the wrap around tank)
Adjustable, Heated Soft Close Seat
Trim sleek advanced technology. Upon activation, the automatic wand extends to provide a gentle stream of warm aerated water. The result? It offers an unparalleled level of comfort and clean. For maximum soothing, it includes a massage feature, a warm air dryer and a temperature controlled heated seat with energy saver functionality
Available in three attractive colors: colonial white, cotton white, and Sedona beige and in elongated and round styles
Quite simply, the Washlet E200 elevates the bathroom experience to greater heights of comfort.
S300 $727.44 (round bowl)
Engineered Luxury
New cleaner look featuring hidden cord design
New reinforced base plate for enhanced durability
Gentle aerated warm water washing
Massage feature with cycling motion
Warm air drying with variable 3 temp setting
Automatic air deodorizer (We all know the value of that)
Heated seat with temp control
Soft close antibacterial seat
Convenient wireless remote with large LCD panel
Docking Station for easy cleaning and Installation
The S300 is for those seeking the ultimate in pampering.
A convenient remote control allows you to adjust the seat and water temp and pressure. With a soothing cycling action the massage feature alternates between front and rear washing for maximum comfort and cleansing.
The WASHLET allows you to immerse yourself in total relaxation and bathroom pleasure
Visit the National Builder Supply website http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/?source=RW886 today for further info, up to date pricing and specials or write me here at the blogsite and I’ll gladly answer technical specifications and provide you with installation instructions.

DEFINITIONS FOR THE PLUMBING CHALLANGED (THAT’S ME)

As those of you who read my writings know already, I follow and comment on some 30 +/- DIY forums daily. Reading these questions brings to mind the need for some simple definitions of terms used by the pros as well as us “not-so-pros”.
Here is my list, write to me to add your favorite definition or to ask for something I’ve missed.
Closet Flange – This is the connection device that attaches to the drain or waste line at the Rough In that the toilet bolts down to. The Wax Ring fits on this flange before you screw the toilet down
Drain Pipes – DUH! these are the collection pipes that run from your fixtures (toilets, sinks, tubs, etc) to the soil pipe or soil stack.
Elbows – these are the premade pipe turns used to make bends in your plumbing piping. Commonly called ELS they can be plastic, copper, or metal depending on the type of piping construction you have in your home.
Main Shut off – this is the primary shut off valve for water coming into your house. Some local codes call for there to be an individual shut off valve for your home, usually located in your basement or a utility area. Other codes refer to the main shut off as the valve from the water utility at your meter at the street. Obviously of you have your own private water source, such as a well, you may have a main shut off at the well head or pump, at the pressure tank and/or yet another separate one inside the house. These are not to be confused with the individual Shut Off Valves that you should have at the water input on each fixture.
Plunger – The “Plumbers Friend”, should be familiar to all of us. It is usually a rubber or flexible plastic suction cup on the end of a wooden rod. This device is used to create suction to remove simple clogs in drains either in your sink, tub or toilet. There are many fancy designs on the market today but the old standby seems to still work best in my humble opinion.
Here’s a great tip I read the other day…to make a better suction especially on oddly shaped holes, put a thick coat of petroleum jelly (that’s Vaseline to us southerners no matter what brand it is).
Riser- a vertical supply or drain line
Rough In – this is the distance from the wall to the drain line where the toilet attaches. If your rough in is not correct then your toilet will either not fit because it will be too close to wall when assembled or the tank will sit too far away from the wall when installed. In this case the crocheted toilet paper cover your grandmother made you as a house warming gift will continually fall off the back of the tank and your guest wont be able to find that spare roll when they need it.
Shutoff Valve – Sometimes called the Stop Valve. Allows you to shut the water supply off to an individual fixture without shutting off the entire house supply. See my article “Another plumbing nightmare and how to avoid it…”.
Trap – or “P” trap (Also discussed in a previous article), is the the “U” shaped pipe under your sink, tub or other drain lines, other than toilets which are “S” and built into the toilet. This simple device traps water in the lowest point of the drain line and prevents sewer gas, methane, from escaping back into your house. A trap allowed to dry out from a lack of use in a seldom used area of the house can be a primary cause for unpleasant smells in the house. See my article WHAT IS THAT SMELL?? This is one of the most frequent complaints I read about in the discussion rooms.
Vent – or vent stack is a pipe or pipes that allow the sewer gas stopped by the Trap escape out into the house and not build up. A build up of these gases can be dangerous both from a breathing stand point or can be explosive. The vent also provides air to your drain system which allows water to flow more freely out of your house and into the septic or sewer system. Vents must extend, by code, a certain distance above the roof line of your house and must be of a certain diameter according to the number of fixtures it is venting. An improperly sized vent or placed in the wrong distance from the fixtures it is venting can be the cause of “burping” drains or toilets, or improperly draining fixtures.
Of course there are dozens of other plumbing definitions, but most, you would rarely read or use as an amateur plumber. I fully believe that if the job requires the actual replacement, or repiping of any type in your home that you call a professional licensed plumber. We take plumbing for granted but it really is a complicated system which must be installed according to proper code, sized, sloped and fitted properly to insure that you will have the least amount of problems.

A SHOT IN THE DARK? Things to consider when making lighting decisions

Any person who has remodeled their home or has embarked on building a new home from scratch knows about the varied of choices one needs to make before the project is complete. The last home I built, my 15 year old son and I lived the blueprints for 11 months. We sat up nights imagining the flow of each room, where the light switches would go, where to hang the light fixtures, what color to paint the walls, choosing the floor coverings. Every aspect affected the project in some way. So we thought it all through carefully. We walked the foundations (my son realized its was 4 feet off the day the footings were dug), measured the framing, generally ran the contractor crazy but we were certain we had all the answers until the week before the final punch list walk through the contractor asked…..what are you going to do about door knobs? Door knobs? You mean the doors didn’t come with knobs? No and the closets don’t come with ceiling lights, shelves and brackets either!
Additionally as the house took shape we realized that all of the thought we had put into light fixtures went by the wayside when the rooms took shape. Corners were dark, walls needed to be lit for anything we wanted to hang and be able to actually see, the kitchen fixture cast a shadow on the countertops which would have made cooking in the dark a newly acquired art. These faults are more prevalent in new construction but are equally important in a renovation because you can now correct all the lighting problems inherent in your existing house, with some careful thought, planning and some assistance from people that know lighting. Choosing a light fixture and planning for the right type of lighting may appear to be a challenge, but one of your greatest sources of information can be your dealer. Unlike the big box stores, who staff their lighting department with whoever isn’t working in the plumbing department today, lighting specialty and many internet dealers can be invaluable in providing guidance for helping you make those decisions easier. They can also be your best source for hanging heights, style, color, power needs, wattage etc. Many can offer help in positioning of each fixture by preparing a lighting plan. Even with this help you still need to live the plan, imagine how each fixture will affect your living space. Is one recessed light to little or six too many? Lighting can be an expensive and VERY PERMANENT part of your plan. So plan carefully and seek guidance.

The fixtures will generally fall under one or more of these four categories:
1.decorative (purely ornamental)
2. task (needed to make work surfaces clear and illuminate rooms)
3. protective and/or safety lighting (outdoor fixtures such as floods, spots, porch)
4. accent (to wash a wall or shine down on a specific non-traffic area)
5. ambient (background)
6. general lighting (the misc. category covering everything else and this is the one where “murphy’s law” will prevail because you won’t realize you needed it until after its too late)
Fixtures also come in different types:
chandeliers
pendants
spotlights
track lights
wall or ceiling-mounted (especially in bathrooms)
fluorescents
cabinet or undercabinet lighting fixtures.
Most of these need no further description here but do need to be thought of individually so you won’t forget that you need them. What each does require is proper selection, placement, scale, size, wiring/switching and most importantly must fit your style sensibility. Additionally, these days, more and more of us are becoming more concerned with the environment and the costs of operating a home. So ask about which lighting fixtures are most economical, consider the fixture’s illumination quality, as an example dark tinted bowls or shades cut down considerably on the quantity of light they emit. What type and size bulb does it take? Specialty bulbs can be VERY expensive to replace. Can it utilize low voltage or compact fluorescents? Lastly and probably the most important to you is to consider the style that is most likely to weather the test of time as opposed to that “satellite shaped” flying dining room chandelier that you thought “you just had to have” (my son chose that one).
In summation, everyone has their own preferences when it comes to the type of lighting and the decorative style of light fixtures that best reflects their own sense of taste. The most important thing to remember is to choose effective lighting for what you want to achieve, and choose fixtures that compliment your home and can do the most to promote the environment. When in doubt seek competent professional help.
As previously mentioned here on our blogsite, National Builder Supply has just become a Progressive Lighting dealer, offering choices from over 1700 individual fixtures offered with our “lowest price” guarantee that has made us your first and last stop for plumbing fixtures.