ANOTHER TALE OF WHAT'S THAT SMELL?

Well I would have thought by now that I had covered every possibility when it comes to “Whats’s that smell” but yet the questions keep coming. Frankly I’m happy for the letters and comments along with the chance to be of help. That is why I do this blog. Late last night I received the following comment from one of my HubNet articles (http://hubpages.com/hub/whatisthatsmell#comment-1783737):
“Hi. Interesting reading! I'm trying to figure out why a sewer gas smell would appear at my mom's house, after not smelling it for the 3 previous years she's been there.
She lives on a concrete slab, cluster home about 13 years old. A month or so ago, it started smelling around her washer machine drain and she says sometimes the kitchen sink, but I have not really smelled the sink yet, however the washer/dryer are located in her kitchen, albeit on the opposite side from the sink.
I would think the code just 13 years ago in our metro area would require a P or S trap for a washer drain, but I'm not sure. Today, I ran a piece of wire down the drain to see if I could feel a trap. It showed some resistance the first try about a foot down, so I figured it has a trap of some sort, but trying it again a few times to be sure, it seemed to pretty much go straight down near the floor and stop. Could the trap be that far down?
She uses the washer at least once a week, so don't think it has dried out. I do wonder where and how to check for a sewer vent? I assume on the roof, but what does it look like and how many are there on a typical house? Would a person have to run something down any or all vent pipes and how far?
My mom is elderly and had a stroke 6 months ago, which seems to have made her sense of smell even more keen so I really need to help her. I just don't know if I should start cutting on the drywall to look for the trap or not? I hate to call a plumber just yet and not sure I trust them, sad to say.
I did have the county water co. come out today and check to see if her sewer line was clear. They told her to flush, etc, while they saw the water run into the main line and they said it was clear.
She told me that she has seen dampness around her concrete driveway where there is a crack that follows the sewer line to the street. I guess it's possible that the pvc pipe has cracked someplace, causing that, but not sure it would cause an odor inside, if it were the case. I have not seen that dampness myself, but the crack has been there for a long time.
Any ideas of where to start, I'm all ears, as Ross Perot once said! :)”
Let me start by answering the simple questions first. All cities with building codes require a “P” trap system so it’s not likely that your Mother’s problem is a lack of “P” traps but the traps may be involved. More on that in a minute. Secondly you would generally think that water seeping up through a concrete driveway would be water under pressure, so that could be a broken yard irrigation line or a break in the main water line coming from the water source. I would certainly suggest that you check your Mom’s water bill and see if it has recently increased. This type of leak would become more visible with the ground super saturated as with the recent heavy rains in your area.
So now my guess is that it is a vent problem. Vents become clogged with leaves and debris and sometimes animal nests. Here’s where the traps come into play. With a clogged trapped, every time you flush a large amount od water down the drain, such as a washer the drain is starving for air and actually can suck the water out of your “P” traps to be able to breathe. To explain the general principle of why you need a vent, think about playing with a straw in a glass of water. If you hold your finger over the top of the straw water in the straw will not flow out. Plumbing drain lines are the same. They are a closed system that must have a source for air to allow the water to drain out of the house. If the vent is clogged small amounts of water like a bathroom sink or maybe even a toilet will gurgle or bubble while trying get enough air but a washer has enough power to just suck it’s way to the air that its needs. A simple fix before I would think of breaking sheetrock or concrete is to have the vents augered. The vents are a straight non-capped pipe that stick up out of the roof and she probably has one or 2 depending on the size of her condo and how many fixtures. If you are not adept at climbing on roofs and using a long auger call a plumber. A simple clog can be cleared also with a high pressure garden hose. Even if it weren’t a vent problem you would use a smoke test to check for a broken pipe so don’t even think of breaking into solid surfaces until you know if there is a leak somewhere.

More on Living the Green Life

I have written, several times in the past, about the importance of living the “green life”. We were especially affected in the past few years in the Atlanta area with an extreme water shortage. Not the problem this year as you may have noticed lately the Atlanta area has begun a cycle of too much water causing floods and massive destruction of homes and businesses in areas where there have never been flood problems before. So the old adage “feast or famine” could easily be restated as either “drought or flood”. Human nature always prevails to result in us being unhappy wither way. The reality is, though, that our world is changing regarding weather, natural resources and economic forces and for years many of us have kept our heads in the sand ignoring the long term possibilities. Well the chickens are coming home to roost and more and more of us as beginning to come to the realization that we must start conserving our resources and living more of a green life. Personally I got my first lesson some 15 years ago when my oldest son decided to leave a high paying job, living the good life, to sell everything and move to a small farm in central Tennessee. His property had an old house on it that I am told (because I wasn’t allowed to actually come see the place for fear of a nervous breakdown) you could see light through the cracks in the walls, he had to use and outhouse, cooked on a wood stove, had no telephone, running water nor electric power because of its remoteness and even yet today has no availability of a TV signal. He gardened and raised much of his own food, worked with a food bank to glean farmer’s fields and to coordinate the U.S. WIC program to distribute milk, cheese and other products to the needy in his county. Today he has a small electrical service to provide refrigeration and to run minimum lighting and a microwave. He has blocked all the holes to make the house airtight tapped a spring and run water to his house. He still uses the outhouse and still cooks on the wood stove. More importantly I have finally conceded that he is happy and doing what he thinks is appropriate for his life and for what little of society that he affects
An article on AOL’s “Walletpop” this past weekend brought to mind things that we can all do more easily than you think to live a greener life without going to the extremes that my son did. According to the National Association of the Remodeling Industry (NARI), there are lots of reasons to go green:
• Lowers energy consumption
• Reduces operating costs in the home by increasing efficiency
• Conserves natural resources
• Increases the value of the home
• Improves indoor air quality and in turn, overall health
• Reduces waste and emissions
• Lowers pollution causing less harm to the environment
• Increases productivity of occupants
• Improves quality of life and raises comfort
• Saves money The same article points out the Top Ten Ways to Implement Green Into Your Home. Green remodeling can be done in small ways and doesn't necessarily have to encompass the entire home. It's easy to pick and choose elements that fit each particular homeowner.
• Use non-toxic paints and sealants
• Install programmable thermostats
• Invest in energy efficient appliances (Energy Star)
• Install natural flooring (bamboo is a prime choice)
• Use local building materials
• Choose natural fiber rugs and materials
• Select recycled material roof shingles and tiles
• Specify energy efficient lighting (compact fluorescents)
• Insulate your hot water lines
• Landscape with native plants None of these things are expensive to implement and can certainly be done in a staged scheduled fashion.To read the NARI complete article go to:
http://www.nari.org/homeowners/tips/greenremodeling.asp

No you don’t have to pitch out the stove and start taking cold showers from the spring nor trot out to the outhouse in the middle of the night. No I still stay at the local motel rather than enjoy my son’s hospitality when I go to visit but it makes me no less proud of his achievements and conviction, but the reality is that we all have to start doing our own little sacrifices to start conserving what we have left in our natural resources and to better our taxed economic situations.

To Permit or not to Permit, That is the Question?

I read two separate discussion forum threads this week with a similar question/situation. The question, should a new addition such as a bathroom be permitted? In the DIY world many folks take on projects without benefit of a professional state sanctioned license. Is it necessary to go to the local building authority to have the job permitted, inspected therefore legally sanctioned and thus insured as to it’s correctness? In the responses, not only from me but from some 50+ other responders, was YES with not one radical dissenter venturing the opinion that no permit be sought.
Here are the basic scenarios as put forth by the threads.
1. Family of six has located and wishes to buy their dream home, a reasonably priced 5 bedroom 2 ½ bath home on 5 beautiful acres of land. The problem is on researching the home and having it professionally inspected its discovered that the house was originally built as a 2 bedroom 1 bath home with the standard septic system for that size house. The buyers only question was could they live with that size septic tank without problems after all the sellers were living with it. Well the answer isn’t a simple yes as the buyer was soon to discover. The additions had never been permitted and if discovered by the local building authority the seller could be forced to either bring the additions and the septic system in conformance with current code, tear it all down and/or pay a huge monetary fine. If not disclosed the seller would bear a huge liability to the buyer. If disclosed to the buyer and accepted the buyer then bears the same responsibility if the additions are discovered or when they were to have the need to sell the property at a later date. This is truly a no win situation. The seller cannot now sell the property for the great price originally negotiated because of the liability of the non-permitted work and the prospective buyer, now being informed of the fault, cannot or certainly should not proceed with the deal. As t o the original question can you live comfortably in a 5 bedroom 2 ½ bath home with a 2 bedroom 1 bath septic tank? Not for long without constant pumping and care or living with the resulting problems of a backed up septic tank.
2. A home owner wants to add a basement bathroom to an existing finished area and doesn’t understand why he should have to permit. His only fear is not that the bathroom will be incorrectly installed but that he will be “ratted out” by a neighbor. This writer received 18+ responses to his first thread, every one of them telling him that the job should be permitted and why. Not satisfied with anyone of those answers he then goes to another discussion forum and asks the question again and received another 8+ responses in favor of permitting. Will he pull the permit and do the job legally? My guess is NO. For all the same reasons as in the first thread, this job should be permitted. Most states require full disclosure on the transfer of property when sold. Additionally if the new bathroom is discovered by the building authority, regardless of how long it has existed, he can be made to open up the walls and prove that it is in code and/be forced to completely remove the entire bathroom. No where did the homeowner even consider whether the addition of the new bathroom would tax his existing septic system. He would finally discover that when the system backs up from being over used and all of his effluent comes pouring out from the lowest point in his plumbing system which in all likelihood would be the new bathroom. Sort of poetic justice HUH?
The bottom line; Yes a permit can cost you a few extra bucks and can slow down your pace while waiting for the inspector but the permit and resulting inspections can be considered insurance against future problems and liabilities

More on Handicap Access Bathrooms...or to the Politically correct...Universally Designed

I am disabled; handicapped, physically challenged or whatever politically correct phrase you would like to use. I make no secret about it. I write about it and unfortunately not because of pride in it but because I have not always been physically challenged. In learning to deal with it by trial and error and by having to pick myself up off the floor or learn how to take care of my personal toilet and bath needs I have discovered some necessities and some short cuts. I have shared these here on my blog and have gotten many inquiries and responses. We are an aging nation. If you are not a “baby boomer”, such as me, your parents are or someone close to you is and you are beginning to see the advantage to planning and building for handicapped access or as I read today the new politically correct phrase…”universal design”, defined as design that can easily used by anyone handicapped or not without specifically calling out their need. To this end I am constantly seeking more info to share with my readers. Although I have discussed retrofitting an existing bathroom and building a new one from scratch I still run across new versions worth sharing and that is the case today. From the Hub Nets web site I found an article written by Edwyn Prose about a shower that was set up for his disabled nephew. In this article Mr. Prose has developed a concise and thorough list of features needed specifically for a shower area, many of which I have written about before, for a disabled person and I felt his info is worth sharing. The following is an excerpt from this article with my thanks to Mr. Prose for writing it.

“So to the actual handicap shower accessories that you can purchase to improve the look, usability and practicality of the handicap shower you now have installed. Now remember, these units generally come with all the grab bars and rails already in place, you shouldn't need any more unless you have a specific need. But it’s good to know that grab bars are available as handicap shower accessories, in which case an additional grab rail or two should be no problem to add on.
Shower Seats. There is a pretty sizable variety of wall mounted folding shower seats as well as benches that are available and they come in a nice variety of styles and sizes. High quality shower chairs are generally made from stainless steel to give them all the strength they'll need as well as good resistance to corrosion. They are usually made with rounded, smooth edges and hinges to allow for safe and simple side transfers. When installed properly, most shower seats are ADA compliant designed and manufactured. All fold down shower seats are also designed to be able to support loads anywhere from 250 lbs to 900 lbs.
A collapsible water retainer or water stopper is the perfect way to help the bathroom floor remain dry. A collapsible water retainer is easily fitted to the shower threshold and because they are made of durable neoprene rubber, they allow a user with limited mobility to easily step into and out of the shower, or similarly a wheelchair can be easily rolled over it.
You can install a hand-held shower head and this is a great way to make your shower a safer and easier to use one. They come with a chrome yoga glide bar, which means you can adjust the stationary position of the shower head. Alternatively you can remove the shower head from the glide bar and hold in your hand.
The addition of a pressure mixing valve will ensure that the water temperature remains constant and independent of the water pressure, which can change during your shower. Because it is a thermostatically controlled valve, it produces the precise water temperature that you set. That means you avoid getting scalded or frozen from the water's temperature changes.
You can get a heavy duty shower curtain which is not the same as the typical variation. These heavy duty curtains are resistant to flame, stains, odors and static and are antimicrobial and very durable. Thus is the most economical choice over time as they last a very long time. You'll need a heavy duty shower curtain pole to support the curtain and these can also be purchased as handicap shower accessories.
Step-less ramp modules are a way of quickly and economically assembling ramps that you may need for wheelchair access to some showers fitted with a low threshold to retain water. Ramps are perforated to allow water to drain through and can be re-used in any other places or even rebuilt and adapted to overcome all kinds of obstacles.”
A reader of the above article also cited the need for a five foot diameter space needed to adequately navigate the shower area with a wheel chair or walker.
I would add to this list accessible shelving or storage for soap, shampoos and other bath necessities as well as a ready supply of large “bath sheet” style towels for drying off. The typical sized towel is just not large enough when you are struggling to dry yourself and any devices that may have been showered with you as well as the water trail that you leave behind you. By no means is this a complete list but it’s a start towards setting up your own universal designed shower area. I would not wish the need for it on any of you.

New Idea for Replacing a Wax Ring

I read a lot of forums with questions regarding toilet leaks, smells coming from under toilets and how to properly install a new or reinstall and old toilet. In most cases the offending problem is the wax ring under the toilet. For as many questions there are there are an equal number of answers and versions but I ran across one of the best this weekend. It includes a new idea for utilizing 2 wax rings instead of just one. This is not to be confused with the idea that you can use 2 rings to raise the toilet up from a sunken closet flange but the second wax ring is softened and used to seal around the flange and to create a wax to wax seal for the new ring. This process comes from “DUNBAR PLUMBER” the moderator of one of my favorite discussion forums
http://forum.doityourself.com/plumbing-piping-31/
Here is his process for repacing a wax ring and a picture showing the final result, before placing the toilet, that he provides is above:

“The best method for installing a wax ring involves 2 rings for the application.

1. First ring is used as a product that fills in all the gaps where the flange and floor meet. Water does not get along with wax so you want no chance of water ever getting down the gaps. This prevents problems from showing up days/months/years from now when the actual wax ring used to seal the toilet to your piping system gets old or leaks due to plunging. If the wax ring starts to leak, this will prevent some serious floor damage that can lead to mold intrusion along with structural damage. For the cost of that extra wax ring, it's worth every dime to use it in that fashion.
2. Use a "normal" wax ring that does not have a horn embedded in the wax. Too often this horned ring is not useful for its application and if there is a height issue with the flange, this flange will bottom out on the toilet's underside or the flange. This means insufficient wax to properly seal the toilet to the flange given the thickness. Always remember that Industry Standard for closet flange height is 7/16" above the finished floor height, which is also the thickness of the closet flange. If you're in a situation where your closet flange is sunken into the floor much deeper than normal, this opens up into another problem because the susceptibility of having a simple clogged toilet being plunged will cause the wax ring to easily lose the seal. This is where the point of leaking occurs and it can be found out quickly or later after damage has occurred.
Wax rings are designed to compress down and spread across the underside of the toilet so the perfect connection exists to seal the toilet to the drainage system properly. I believe that someday in the near future that wax rings will be eliminated and the use of a quick connect fitting built into the underside of the toilet will adapt to any plumbing system. This advancement in technology will be the answer to the constant issues that wax rings do not always provide when there are too many variables to consider with floor heights, flange heights, manufacture specifications of the underside of the toilet's base. This is the best application and serves the "down the road" thinking of protecting your floor without having issues with property damage.
I cannot even begin to tell how many times I've seen thousands of dollars spent on property damage claims in relation to toilets leaking at the base due to wax rings or other methods of connection to the toilet to make a positive seal.“
To add to Dunbar’s process I would remind you that when replacing the toilet and tightening the flange bolts down you should be careful to tighten each bolt only a few turns at a time to evenly exert the leverage on the base of the toilet. These bolts should be snug but under no circumstances should they be over tightened because the toilet is made of porcelain and can easily crack and the only repair is to throw that toilet away (they make excellent planters for your front yard) and start all over. That’s an expensive learning lesson.

Thanks, Dunbar, for the great idea and for the many folks you help daily on your forum.

WHAT IS AN AIR GAP AND WHY DO I NEED MY AIR GAPPED ANYWAY?

Well it’s happened. I learned something today that I had never known before. Actually, if the truth be known, I learn something everyday even when I’m not trying. Frankly I had wondered many times what that little silver air vent thingy on my sink was but never had to fix or replace it. I guess I really never understood its function. It’s called an “air gap” and I always thought it was a form of device which allowed you to add vent capacity to an area or appliance where there hadn’t been one or maybe where you had added something new like a dishwasher. The air gap has no moving parts, and they never go bad, ever. It's always what connects to them that causes issues.
So I ran across a forum discussion yesterday that not only gave me the answer but actually put me into sensory overload with WAY TOO MUCH INFO. So I thought I would clear up the confusion for those of you out there that might have been with me in the same boat of ignorance but am going to try to give you the shortest most concise answer but unfortunately there is no short answer. There were 16 different answers in the forum as an example. No wonder I never understood what it was and my head is still spinning.
So let’s start with the simplistic example of why the air gap is needed:
“You now live on the first floor of a high rise. You have just started to clean supper dishes and decide to run some potato peelings down the drain (Remind me to tell you my potato peelings story on a Christmas morning, sometime). You fill your dishwasher and start the cycle and walk away. MEANWHILE, every one of your neighbors are doing the same thing above you. AT THE SAME TIME, there is a water break in the 12 inch water main in front of your building. You do not know that the drain line is backing up into your kitchen sink. You do not know the water supply has dropped in pressure so that the lines are pulling air where they can from the negative pressure.(even hot water supplies with recirculation pumps will do this when water pressure drops to the negative) You do not know that your dishwasher just jammed the pump. The pump being stuck with the solenoid valve now open so the dishwasher is trying to pump water out, but in reality, dirty water from the sink is flowing into the dishwasher. It does this several cycles, until, you guessed it, dirty water is being sucked into the side inlet and into the water supply lines. Thus what sits under that ugly cap is what saves lives, protects that potable water being used inside that dishwasher that sanitizes those dishes when it runs its cycle".
So why would one need an "air-gap" for a dishwasher? Because some dishwashers fill at the bottom, and contaminated water from the dishwasher could, in the scenario above, backflow into the water supply. The reality is that most new dishwashers fill from the side, above the door line. There would be no way for the water from the dishwasher to get up to the fill level it would leak out the door if the water got that high. Why would an extra air gap be required then? Just because of the same kind of crazy improbable situations as above.
A simple definition of the air gap is the space between a wall mounted faucet and the sink rim (this space is the air gap). Water can easily flow from the faucet into the sink, but there is no way that water can flow from the sink into the faucet without modifying the system. This arrangement will prevent any contaminants in the sink from back flowing into the potable water system thus protecting your life and those of your neighbors by keeping contaminated water from being siphoned into the fresh water lines. To further illustrate the air gap, consider what could happen if the air gap were eliminated by attaching a hose to the faucet and lowering the hose into a sink full of contaminated water. Under the right conditions (if the water supply loses pressure and the sink is higher than the point at which the water supply enters the house, for instance), the dirty water in the sink will be siphoned into the water pipes through the hose and faucet. The dirty water then will be dispersed throughout the fresh water system. Because of this, although improbable occurrence, all plumbing codes require backflow prevention and in most cases, especially if the code inspector doesn’t like your plumbers solution, is the little air gap. If you look around your house you may even see one somewhere near your washing machine too.
Still confused? Yep me too, but know that codes are strange things and have been developed over many years of improbable situations. I think of the warning on the Preparation H box “for external use only” because somewhere along the line some poor guy has eaten several of them and got no relief from his hemorrhoids.

Can You Save Water by Lowering Your Water Pressure?

I have written, in the past, about the dangers of high water pressure in your home but ran across a great blog today on the www.findplumbing.com discussion forum. This article defines several terms regarding water pressure and the regulation of it but more importantly, from a new viewpoint, hypothesizes that proper regulation of water pressure in your home can effectively save water. It’s common knowledge that your water pressure shouldn’t exceed 60-65 psi to avoid damage to pipe fittings, valves in your automatic appliances and faucets and that high water pressure is the primary cause of “water hammer”. Now how does reducing water pressure save water resources? Reducing the pressure from 100 lbs. to 50 lbs.will result in a saving of approximately 1/3 because 1/3 less water flows at this lower pressure. Remember, there is more "push" behind the water at 100 lbs. than at 50 lbs. and most of this water is wasted. Moderate savings would result if your supply pressure was 65 lbs. However, even at this lower pressure, savings with a regulator would be 20%.
To more easily control the incoming water pressure many newer homes have pressure regulators built into the system between the meter and the house. What is a Water Pressure Regulator? Also called water pressure reducing valves, are compact, inexpensive regulators that perform two functions, they automatically reduce the high incoming water pressure from the city mains to provide a lower, more functional pressure for distribution in the home.
Water pressure regulators are commonly installed at the meter in residential, commercial and industrial buildings. This location is desirable because it then controls the water pressure flowing to all appliances and outlets within the building and provides an inexpensive means of supplying lower, more functional water pressure to outlets and appliances. Considering that a typical family of four uses an average of 255 gallons of water each day for interior plumbing (broken down by: dishwashing - 15 gallons; cooking/drinking - 12 gallons; utility sink - 5 gallons laundry - 35 gallons; bathing - 80 gallons; bathroom sink - 8 gallons; toilet - 100 gallons). When multiplied by a year, a typical family usage totals 93,000 gallons of water so the savings of 30% obtained by lowering your water pressure can be considerable. This is based on the assumption that you are not currently managing the pressure in your home. An average savings would be from $50 to $150 per year, probably much higher. Based on the fact that 1/3 less water flows at 50 lbs. than 100 lbs., you can expect to save up to 1/3 of the water previously consumed. Remember also, however, that 1/3 of the water used in homes is heated so 1/3 of the 30,000 gallons of water saved divided by 2 to reflect a cold water mixing factor would mean a savings in heating up to 5,000 gallons of hot water per year. If you figure 4 cents to heat a gallon of water, the savings would be $200.00. You can also figure on a savings in your sewer surcharge bill, since most of the 30,000 gallons of water saved will not be going into the wastewater system, therefore, you will not be assessed on that. You would also have to figure the savings, generated by not having to have appliances repaired or replaced more frequently.
The Finding Plumbing blog also listed the following tips that you can employ to save water and energy:
1. Put a stopper in your sink or use a dishpan when you wash dishes. Washing with running water uses 30 gallons per meal.
2. Keep a bottle of drinking water in the refrigerator running the water from the faucet until cold will waste a gallon.
3. Wait until you have a full nine-pound wash before you run your washing machine. The average machine uses 50 gallons per load.
4.Turn the hot water off while you shave, and turn the cold water off while you brush your teeth. Shaving with a running faucet uses about 20 gallons.
5. Take showers instead of baths. The usual bath requires 36 gallons, the usual shower, only 25. Ten gallons is enough for a shower if you turn it off while you lather.
6. Don't use the toilet bowl to dispose of cigarette ashes, facial tissues, and other materials. A normal flush requires 8 gallons. Plus if your on a septic system these items will contribute, long term, to causing septic tank failure.
7. Use dishwasher only when completely full.
8. Fix dripping faucets promptly. Nearly two gallons can be wasted per day of dripping.
9. Running toilets can waste four gallons per hour. Keep them in good repair.
10. THINK before you turn on the tap.

Our water resources are becoming more and more in short supply so anything we can do to conserve not only saves water but saves money.

Yet Another Smell Problem

I do my blogging with the hopes that along the way I am imparting info to folks in need and am really happy when I get comments and emails from readers either having found their solution or with stubborn problems. As I have said before one of the most frequent questions and by far the most frequently read of my blogs are the ones on plumbing smells. Recently I received the following inquiry from a desperate homeowner and mother with a very stubborn smell from one of her bathrooms and have included my answers and what we hope will be the final conclusion.

Q: I just found your post about the horrible smell from bathroom...We are having the same problem. Definitely water under tub, changed wax seals, recaulked both tubs, after we take baths the smell intensifies, water came out of seal of toilet once, we did just have a few days of rain.... Plumber did perk test, camera, and pressure tests and said our house is fine. My yard and neighbor's yards are definitely water saturated! I'm begging city to do smoke test, but not having luck. City is saying it's not their problem even though all neighbors surrounding us are having drainage issues as well. Any other suggestions?? We are MISERABLE and our 3 kids are gagging everytime they go to bathroom!!!!!!!!!

A: Im sorry to hear of your problem and agree that a smoke test is probably the only way to resolve the issue at this time. I urge you to continue to pressure your utility or look into the cost to have the smoke test run yourself. It sounds as if there is a drain line broken on your yard or an adjacent neighbors yard and water is pooling under your foundation and the gas is seeping through a crack in your foundation or through poriosity. The smell is not only distasteful but can potential be dangerous if methane gas pools and can be ignited. Please let me know how it turns out

Her Response: Well, We pressed the city for a smoke test and got one done this AM. The test showed the city was ok. Now we hired another plumber who thinks it may be a pipe below bathtub that's broken. He's bringing his camera tomorrow AM. We are so ready to have this problem fixed! We had to move out b/c the smell is just too bad and after considering your comment about the methane. Yikes. Thanks so much for your time. I'll let you know how it turns out.

And then the bad news: Yikes, not good news! Another plumber used a camera in our pipes and found that almost all the cast iron pipes are bad. UGH! Even worms in there. I'm thinking the first plumber just lied to us b/c the pipes were in really bad shape, so maybe he didnt want to tackle that job. Which makes me pretty upset since I sat here spinning my wheels for another week! Oh well, worse things have happened... staying positive!!!!

My response: Sorry to hear that but before they start digging up your foundation and yard look into having the existing pipes relined. Here is a link with some simple info but there are several alternatives to doing it so price it both ways, http://plumbing.about.com/b/2009/02/20/tale-of-two-broken-drain-lines.htm and a You Tube video explaining the process , http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhaf-AWZ99U

The bottom line is there is not always a simple answer to “what is that smell?” For every simple answer we find there can be the tough ones. It can be as simple as a dry “p” trap to totally compromised drain lines or septic system. Whatever it is it is annoying, embarrassing and potential dangerous to your home and health.

HOW TO EASILY SAVE 10% OR MORE ON YOUR HVAC COSTS

With winter just around the corner and the economy still on the ropes we are all faced with the decision as to whether we have adequate heat or adequate food. In our area the power utilities have made the decision for us by continuing to raise the cost of electricity but there is hope that the heating oil prices will be lower this year than in the past. A simple solution to helping with your HVAC expenses is to install a set back thermostat which is literally a small computer that mounts in place of your traditional thermostat and can be programmed by you to provide heat and cool at peak times and to moderate the use when you are away or asleep. I ran across this great article from the U.S. Department of Energy that provides a good description for those of you that haven’t yet known about these great little devices.
“You can save around 10% a year on your heating and cooling bills by simply turning your thermostat back 10°–15° for eight hours. You can do this automatically without sacrificing comfort by installing an automatic setback or programmable thermostat. Using a programmable thermostat, you can adjust the times you turn on the heating or air-conditioning according to a pre-set schedule. As a result, you don't operate the equipment as much when you are asleep or when the house is not occupied. Programmable thermostats can store and repeat multiple daily settings (six or more temperature settings a day) that you can manually override without affecting the rest of the daily or weekly program. When shopping for a programmable thermostat, be sure to look for the ENERGY STAR® label.
You can easily save energy in the winter by setting the thermostat to 68°F while you're awake and setting it lower while you're asleep or away from home. By turning your thermostat back 10°–15° for 8 hours, you can save about 5%–15% a year on your heating bill—a savings of as much as 1% for each degree if the setback period is eight hours long. The percentage of savings from setback is greater for buildings in milder climates than for those in more severe climates.
In the summer, you can follow the same strategy with central air conditioning, too, by keeping your house warmer than normal when you are away, and lowering the thermostat setting to 78°F (26°C) only when you are at home and need cooling. Although thermostats can be adjusted manually, programmable thermostats will avoid any discomfort by returning temperatures to normal as you wake or return home.
A common misconception associated with thermostats is that a furnace works harder than normal to warm the space back to a comfortable temperature after the thermostat has been set back, resulting in little or no savings. This misconception has been dispelled by years of research and numerous studies. The fuel required to reheat a building to a comfortable temperature is roughly equal to the fuel saved as the building drops to the lower temperature. You save fuel between the time that the temperature stabilizes at the lower level and the next time heat is needed. So, the longer your house remains at the lower temperature, the more energy you save.
Programmable thermostats are generally not recommended for heat pumps. In its cooling mode, a heat pump operates like an air conditioner, so turning up the thermostat (either manually or with a programmable thermostat) will save energy and money. But when a heat pump is in its heating mode, setting back its thermostat can cause the unit to operate inefficiently, thereby canceling out any savings achieved by lowering the temperature setting. Maintaining a moderate setting is the most cost-effective practice. Recently, however, some companies have begun selling specially designed programmable thermostats for heat pumps, which make setting back the thermostat cost effective. These thermostats typically use special algorithms to minimize the use of backup electric resistance heat systems.
Electric resistance systems, such as electric baseboard heating, require thermostats capable of directly controlling 120-volt or 240-volt circuits. Only a few companies manufacture line-voltage programmable thermostats.
For steam heating and radiant floor heating systems, the problem is their slow response time: both types of systems may have a response time of several hours. This leads some people to suggest that setback is inappropriate for these systems. However, some manufacturers now offer thermostats that track the performance of your heating system to determine when to turn it on in order to achieve comfortable temperatures at your programmed time.
Alternately, a normal programmable thermostat can be set to begin its cool down well before you leave or go to bed and return to its regular temperature two or three hours before you wake up or return home. This may require some guesswork at first, but with a little trial and error you can still save energy while maintaining a comfortable home.
Choosing and Programming a Programmable Thermostat
Most programmable thermostats are either digital, electromechanical, or some mixture of the two. Digital thermostats offer the most features in terms of multiple setback settings, overrides, and adjustments for daylight savings time, but may be difficult for some people to program. Electromechanical systems often involve pegs or sliding bars and are relatively simple to program. When programming your thermostat, consider when you normally go to sleep and wake up. If you prefer to sleep at a cooler temperature during the winter, you might want to start the temperature setback a bit ahead of the time you actually go to bed; you probably won't notice the house cooling off as you prepare for bed. Also consider the schedules of everyone in the household; is there a time during the day when the house is unoccupied for four hours or more? If so, it makes sense to adjust the temperature during those periods.
Other Considerations
The location of your thermostat can affect its performance and efficiency. Read the manufacturer's installation instructions to prevent "ghost readings" or unnecessary furnace or air conditioner cycling. Place thermostats away from direct sunlight, drafts, doorways, skylights, and windows. Also make sure your thermostat is conveniently located for programming.”
Installation of one of these thermostats is easily done and needs nothing more than a screwdriver and although I know that it goes against the grain of all of the men reading this..FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. Then call your teenager to program it for you.

FIXING THAT LEAKING FAUCET IN 10 EASY STEPS

Problems show up on the discussion forums in groups sort of like mini epidemics. One week it will be slow flushing toilets, then smelly water or smells eminating from areas of your house other than your teenagers bedroom, then it will be septic tank problems. This past week it seems to have been leaky faucets especially outside hose bibs. This latter becomes more important to have fixed with the arrival of winter time freezing well within reach. In researching leaks in general to give you the best answer I ran across the following simple step by step process that details repairing a leak in simple easy to understand terms so I thought I would pass it along. It comes from www.factoidz.com to whom I give complete credit.
“No matter how tightly you turn the faucet, the water continues to drip, You see dollar signs going down the drain, and your neighborhood plumber wants $75 just to walk in the front door. Sure, you could put a pot in the sink and collect these drips, thinking you can use the water on your plants. But you know you won't. You'll just empty the pot down the drain. OR — you could spend maybe a half hour and less than a dollar in parts and repair this wasteful problem on your own. Regardless if you are in the bathroom or kitchen, sink plumbing is basically the same.
You have two water lines coming in, one for each faucet and there is a water shut-off valve in each line allowing for easy repairs.
STEP ONE: Shut the water off to the faucet you wish to repair. A word of advice here is to shut off both valves, turning each clockwise.Though only one faucet may be leaking, the cost involved is so minor, you might as well do some preventive maintenance while you're at it.
STEP TWO: Remove the faucet handles, because under those plastic buttons that say H and C are the screws securing these handles. Try a fingernail and pop those buttons out and a Phillips head screw should be underneath. With the water turned off, remove that screw and pull the handles off. Now what you see is a water valve stem. Do not be intimidated here, you are in charge. Using a pair of Channel locks, or lacking those, a pair of pliers, wrap a piece of rag around the valve stem and remove the stem from the sink by turning each of these counterclockwise. The rag is to prevent you from screwing up the threads on the stems. Now, with the stems out, you have the root of your problem in your hand. Put each stem nearest the hole you removed it from. On the bottom of each valve is a small brass screw and a round, black rubber washer. The washer is your culprit. The washer is what is allowing water to seep through no matter how tightly you turn the faucet. In fact, as time has passed, and you have turned the faucet tighter and tighter, this has had a negative effect on the washer, and compressed it to the problem point. So now,
STEP THREE: is to remove those brass screws and lift out those nasty washers. Put the washers in your pocket.
STEP FOUR: get in your car, or truck, and go to Lowe's, Home Depot or any home improvement store. Show he man in the plumbing section your washers. Follow him to the plumbing parts, watch him open several drawers until he locates the ones that MATCH YOURS. Thank the man (or woman) and go pay for them.
STEP FIVE: Go home. Install the washers, the brass screws and hand tighten the valve stems back into their respective holes. Grab that rag again and cover the threads and tighten the valve stems, clockwise, until they're seated. You don't need a ton of muscle here, just tighten them. STEP SIX: Open both water valves.
STEP SEVEN: Place the faucet handles back on the valve stems and turn the water on. If the handles work differently now, that means you put the wrong valve in the wrong hole. DUH! Turn the water back off before correcting this mental lapse of yours.
STEP EIGHT: Turn the faucets on and off several times. Feel your pride swell? See the water stop when you shut the faucet? Feeling good here? Call the family, show them what you have done!
STEP NINE: Strut through the house, looking for problems you can correct. Slide those pliers in your back pocket. Consider buying a tool pouch soon.
STEP TEN: Go and relax for a while in your easy chair, thinking of ways to spend your new found wealth. Sleep well.”
Sounds just like something I would have written doesn’t it?

GRAY WATER SYSTEMS, WILL THEY WORK FOR YOU?

A couple of times a day people use the bathroom sink to wash up or brush their teeth. Several times a week families do one or more loads of laundry depending on the size of family.
Where does all of that used water go? If you have a septic system this water mixes with your black water (from flushing toilets) and eventually goes into the septic tank and drain fields. Possible ground or drinking water contamination could result. If you live in a municipality it might go into the sanitary sewer system. In many parts of the country fresh water is scarce, especially during the hotter seasons of the year. Lawn watering contributes a great deal to freshwater depletion. Lower reservoirs, wells and rivers result from increased fresh water usage.
There may be a better way. Gray water systems allow homeowners to filter gray water for use in watering gardens, yards and plants. Not disposing of gray water into septic systems keeps the septic tank and drain field from becoming overtaxed with fluids. In cities the sanitary sewer system also benefits from less volume of gray water to treat and process which would decrease the treatment load and expense.
Ignorance of the facts contribute to the reason behind the lack of acceptance in using gray water systems. In the vast majority of septic or sewer systems, the gray water from showers and laundry mix with the black water from the toilets and go into a septic tank or down the public sewer. The mixed grey and black water then goes into the drain field to be dispersed underground.

There are basically two types of gray water systems, gravity fed manual systems and package systems. The manual systems do not require electricity or pumps because they work on gravity taking the gray water to the area needed. They may require a larger yard area to install the system outside. Packaged systems require electricity but are self-contained and can be installed indoors. With each option codes and local ordinances must be considered.
Manual gravity fed gray water systems can vary greatly in their design. Some use various means of filtering. Others dispose of the gray water while some store gray water for watering plants, lawns and gardens. Local codes may restrict or dictate the type of system you install. Here’s a great book on manual gray water systems available from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0964343304?tag=cedahousinnyu-20&camp=14573&creative=327641&linkCode=as1&creativeASIN=0964343304&adid=0B27XZEXZG0TQRKGD87T&

Packaged gray water systems are difficult to find in the USA. In fact very few are manufactured in the USA. Most are made by companies in drought prone areas like Australia. One issue with gray water systems is code approvals in the US. As I mentioned earlier many local and state health officials do not understand gray water reuses. Some systems available in the US contain a tank to filter and hold the gray water. Installing some of these systems in an existing home can be expensive depending on where the gray water system is located since filtered gray water must be piped separately from black water from the toilet. Most local codes now require a low flow or dual flush toilet. A segregated system would allow using the gray water for the yard and gardens and collect gray water in a plastic storage tank to reuse. Such an arrangement may not meet local codes since the stored gray water can harbor bacteria. Those systems that hold gray water in storage tanks longer that 24 hours require disinfection with chlorine or UV light. Watering a flower garden or yard with chlorinated water could be detrimental to plants. So if you consider installing a gray water system make sure you are aware of the maintenance requires

I prefer a gray water system that filters the gray water and directly discharges the water into the yard. When yard watering is not required the gray water could go into the sanitary sewer or septic system or help replenish a small pond. Such systems exist in Australia and other drought prone areas of the world.

Here is a web site with some state (not all and not necessarily current) regulations http://www.gray water-systems.com/regs.htm

Now it's "Cash for Clunker Appliances"?

Over the last couple of months I blogged about the “Cash for Clunkers” program which ended a few weeks ago with mixed reviews. The end result, regardless, was that it did take some old gas guzzlers off the road, managed to clear the dealer’s lots of over 450,000 of built up inventory of unsold vehicles and even put some assembly lines back to work Now I read in an article from freelance writer Aaron Crowe published on “Wallet Pop” that the next phase is a stimulus program to promote the sales of high energy efficient appliances. The following is an excerpt from Mr. Crowe’s article for whom I extend full credit and thanks for the article::
“With the federal "Cash for Clunkers" program such a resounding success and now out of money, prepare for the next wave of federal stimulus money “Cash for refrigerators”. That isn't the formal name of the federal program, which is set to begin late this fall with rebates of $50 to $200 on purchases of high-efficiency household appliances, part of a $300 million stimulus to boost home appliance sales. Users won't have to trade in their old dish washers, refrigerators or other appliances to get the rebate. The Energy Department expects most of the $300 million to be awarded by the end of November, although given the success of the car program, you might want to get in line early at your favorite home supply store. (Other sources say the money and the program will be fully exhausted by November 1) Program details will vary by state, and states have until Oct. 15 to file formal applications with the Energy Department.

New appliances must have an Energy Star seal to qualify. In 2008, about 55% of newly-produced major household appliances met those standards, which are set by the Energy Department and the Environmental Protection Agency.

"These rebates will help families make the transition to more efficient appliances, making purchases that will directly stimulate the economy," Energy Secretary Steven Chu said in a statement announcing the plan, according to “BusinessWeek” (magazine).

Most states already have rebates for energy-saving appliances. When I bought a new washing machine last month, I was eligible to get $200 from my power and water companies because it used less electricity and water than what it replaced. And, as anyone who has had an appliance repairman stop by can tell you, it's usually cheaper to buy a new appliance than have it fixed.

The new rebates will be in addition to existing rebates that utilities or stores already offer. And beyond the extra money, the best news may be that you don't have to drag your old appliance to the store to get the rebate. Buying a new washing machine may not be as much fun as buying a new car with a clunker trade-in, but it's a lot cheaper way to stimulate the economy while saving money.” (this ends Mr. Crowe’s article)
The down side to this program is similar in some ways to the “Cash for Clunkers” program in that a vast majority of the products sold with that program came from foreign manufacturers with Toyota being the big winner in the last calculations that I read. Appliances will be no different with the major American brands now manufactured outside of the U.S., especially in Mexico. Granted it will still serve to diminish inventory in your local appliance store and will provide a tremendous energy savings by getting the old “clunker” appliances out of service, that is if they truly disappear from service and don’t just appear on Craigslist because there is no requirement to destroy the old offending appliances.
As Mr Crowe’s article mentions there are programs in place in many states that already offer rebates or sales tax exemptions on energy savings appliances and even on plumbing fixtures, HVAC systems, lighting products and many other items. Whether this new program lures you down to the local appliance store to replace your old “Norge” or not the best thing to do, whenever you decide its time change any major appliance, fixture or device in your home, is to check with your local utility company, search the internet, talk to friends and discuss with retailers the many ways to save money on the initial purchase as well as long term energy savings.

5 Common Water Heater Problems

I wrote a blog a few days ago about a problem a family was having with their hot water heater. They would quickly use up a 50 gal tank of hot water then the reset button would go off. I conjectured, at the time, that they had a lower heating element out or if the reset button wasn’t tripping then their problem was that their HWH was just too small for their household. After now having received several comments and direct emails requesting further information on similar situations I decided it's time to cover the subject a little more in depth. The question is “I only have 5 minutes of hot water and it gets cold, what causes this”? There could be several reasons for this type of problem. First eliminate the ones that have nothing to do with the water heater. Are any of your hot water faucets leaking or dripping? How long has it been since you last ran the dishwasher or the washing machine? These things are obvious and can easily use up a hot water supply in most households. In the absence of those solutions there are 5 other things that come to mind and I’m sure that there are many more that have escaped me but these are the primary ones I think of:
1. As in my other blog the HWH can just be too small for your family. If running out of hot water is a new problem, unless you have recently gotten a teenager in the family who is taking 1 hour showers, then this is probably not your problem.
2. Your bottom heating element is burned out. If your HWH is electric it has 2 elements, one at the top and one at the bottom. The tank feeds hot water from the top and if the bottom element isn’t working then you are quickly siphoning off all of your hot water and the upper element cannot keep up with the demand. This is an easy fix in most heaters but because your are dealing with 220 power if you don’t know what youre doing call an electrician
3. You have a dip tube problem. The dip tube is simply the supply line which forces cold water into the HWH when the hot water is being used up. The dip tube is a plastic tube inside the water heater (not the tube that is connected to the relief valve) on the cold water inlet side. this tube goes from the top of the water heater to about 8 inches from the bottom of the tank, forcing the cold water to go to the bottom of the tank, pushing the hot water out of the hot outlet of the water heater. If this tube breaks above that 8” line any hot water below that point will not be available it will just be trapped there. And even though the tank is full of hot water, you will just get a small amount of it. Replacement tubes are available at any plumbing supply. The cold water pipe will need to be removed to replace the tube so unless you’re really good at plumbing you might want to call a plumber.
4. Your lower thermostat is bad. This means that the thermostat is not calling for the lower heating element to come on and thus no hot water is being replenished as you use it from the top. Like the heating element, unless you are adept at electrical work call an electrician.
5. Your upper thermostat is bad. Like the lower thermostat, if it’s not working the upper element doesn’t keep the hot water at the top hot so you get cooler water before you get to the hot water at the bottom. Remember the cold water is delivered to the bottom forcing the hot water on the bottom up and out into your supply lines. Just like the lower element these are an easy fix if you’re adept at electrical work, otherwise call a professional.

Many of these problems, especially the elements and thermostats can cause a rapid overheating of you HWH and result in a dangerous pressure situation. That’s why you should NEVER tamper with your temperature and pressure relief valve and always be aware of any leaks or problems with your HWH requiring a reset or blowing circuit breakers.

Top 10 Home Improvements and their Return on your Investment

A few blogs back I wrote about simple low cost or no cost things you could do to make your home infinitely more saleable:
http://nationalbuildersupply.blogspot.com/2009/08/how-do-i-sell-my-home.html
My feelings are that with the economy in its current state and the fact that many folks are buried in their homes and can’t afford either on a cash basis or credit wise that to put more money into their house is just not feasible. I am still of that opinion but over the weekend AOL published an interesting article listing top ten things that you might spend money on and the return that you could expect to get when you sell. I am of the opinion that these are things to consider only if you are planning on renovating you home to stay in it for the time being not if you are looking to eminently sell. The following are excerpts from that AOL article as well as a link to the original source from “Remodeling Magazine” both to whom I extend credit and thanks for the use of the material.
“If your house has been sitting on the market since spring, you may be asking yourself what you can do to 'get it sold.' As any fan of HGTV will tell you, you can do one of two things or some combination of the two.
1) See what other homes in your area are selling for, then cut your price to make it competitive.
2) Make reasonably priced improvements to help your home look it's best.
There are plenty of home improvement projects that you could spend $10,0000 or $20,000 on, but it's unlikely you'll get more than 50 percent of that back on your resale price in this market. It may be better to offer a credit to the buyer for that amount, rather than trying to do the work yourself.
The top ten high return on investment Projects For Under $30K were listed as follows:
Project | Return on Investment
1. Deck Addition (wood), 81.8%
2. Siding Replacement (vinyl), 80.7%
3. Minor Kitchen Remodel, 79.5%
4. Window Replacement (wood), 77.7%
5. Window Replacement (vinyl), 77.2%
6. Bathroom Remodel, 74.6%
7. Deck Addition (composite), 73.7%
8. Roofing Replacement, 65.5%
9. Backup Power Generator, 57.2%
10. Home Office Remodel, 54.6%
Source: Remodeling Magazine's Cost vs Value Report
As I detailed in my previous blog imagine want a potential buyer sees as they walk up to your home for the first time. Are the bushes covering half the house? Is the yard full of weeds? When the buyer first enters the house, does the paint and carpets look fresh and clean? You should try to try to create an experience for the buyer that they feel as if they don't have to do anything with the house, except maybe change the wall colors or that they can easily see themselves and their furnishings fitting. It is very important to be well versed in the “comps”(comparables) in your neighborhood. Consider them to be your competition. You have to compete on more than just price but also in features, condition, floor plan and content.
Deck additions ranked highly in the report cited above, outdoor space is desirable for buyers but rather than build a 30 by 20 deck on the back of you house just to sell it? Consider screening in an existing deck or put a roof over it? Then it becomes a three-season space. Sellers may want to address at eyesores before they consider any grandiose additions so take care of the problems as opposed to trying to hide things with expensive renovations. As an example make a good first impression consider a new front door with leaded glass or "sidelights," pressure washing your deck or repairing any peeling paint or damaged siding before you start looking at anything else. As I recommended in blogs before, instead of tearing out your bathroom or kitchen look at replacing the countertops, plumbing fixtures, light fixtures and even some appliances.
In the end, in today’s market, your house has a better chance selling if you follow the simple rules that I laid out in my previous blog and know your competition and price it according.
As a passing note be aware that the Government’s $8000 cash purchasing incentive you only have until November 1st.

WHAT'S OLD IS NEW AGAIN...the bathrooms of our lives.

As much as I hate to admit it I’m 61 years old so I have seen a lot of changes in bathroom technology and décor. There are dozens of shower configurations with the two latest rages being rain simulating showerheads and body sprays located around the shower. But as in so many things what’s old is new again, I was privileged to own a beautiful old 1928 Spanish style home in Los Angeles many years ago and it had the body sprays around the shower but I had never seen them anywhere else before and thought they were a great idea. Toilets have changed. My frequent readers know that I talk up ADA height toilets, water saving toilets and Toto Washlets constantly although the idea of bidets have been around as long as running water in bathrooms yet we are installing them now in homes now like they are brand new. Although I must admit that the Washlet is one great new invention that has been a great new feature to my bathroom.
Toilet styles have changed with some space age automatic models like Toto’s Neo line that even has an MP3 built in to retro styles that imitate the old original look. Again this is a prime example of what’s old is new again. This fad is especially popular with us older folks.
Before running water people had, in their bedrooms beautiful pieces of furniture called “wash stands” that were used as the center of one’s daily washing and toilet needs. One would have a nice picture and bowl on the top (usually marble to be water proof) and a “chamber pot” tucked away privately in the bottom of the washstand to save a trip to the outhouse in the middle of the night. This wash stand idea and look is now being recreated with furniture styled bathroom vanities with bowl type sinks that sit on top of the vanity instead of being recessed. These new vanities are often of high furniture quality and can be found in styles from French provincial to Mid Century modern. I recently replaced a 30 year old vanity in one of my bathrooms, that I’m sure was state of the art when new but man was it outdated. The new vanity I chose is a dark finished simple design with a slight Asian influence in design and has now changed the look of the bathroom so much that I will now have to change the wall finish, the tub, the style of show enclosure and have already changed the floor (laminated wood) so be careful. Most people know National Builder Supply for their great selection, prices and service on all kinds of faucets, fixtures and light fixtures but if you dig around their web site, http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/ , you will find a dozens of beautiful high quality furniture styled vanities along with every conceivable type of top and sink you could desire. Be careful thought it could lead to major renovations as well as a trip down memory lane about the bathrooms of your life.

Bacteria in your Showerhead? What will they think of next?

The old ad for the second “Jaws” movie used the tag line...”Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water”. Now I read it isn’t even safe to get into the shower? No, sharks haven’t taken over your bathroom. If correct, the research announced yesterday on CNN, MSNBC and generally spread by any news service that would print it, it was announced that our showerheads are potentially full of dangerous bacteria. Well I’m from the south and we have been saying for years that we should just bathe on Saturday night so now I have proof. If only my parents were still alive so I could prove to them that they were wrong about those daily showers.
Here is an abridged version of the article for your reading pleasure along with my thanks to the news ,media and the author:
“If the shower scene in Alfred Hitchcock's Psycho scared you, here's another reason to scream: A new study says that potentially disease-causing germs can get trapped in showerheads and grow into biofilm, or coats of slime that deliver a bacteria blast along with your hot water. Although the classic horror film gave legions of moviegoers a fear of showering, the new study shouldn't do the same, experts say. The bacteria probably don't pose a threat to most people, although they could be problematic for those with weakened immune systems. Showerheads are dark, wet, and warm -- the ideal environment for bacteria that cause lung diseases to thrive. As we turn on the faucet to get clean, the showerhead may spray our bodies and the air around us with such opportunistic bugs as Mycobacterium avium and other germs known as non-tuberculosis mycobacteria, according to the new research in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. In fact, levels of these are more than 100-fold higher than levels found in the pre-shower water, according to the researchers, who analyzed the germs in 45 showerheads from nine U.S cities, including New York and Denver. "If you are immune compromised or are susceptible to pulmonary infections, take a bath instead of a shower," says lead researcher Leah M. Feazel, of the University of Colorado, in Boulder. "If you are healthy and your immune system is functioning properly, you should not worry about the germs in your showerhead." Mycobacterium avium, found in 20 percent of study samples, can cause lung infections in both healthy people and those with weakened immune systems, particularly smokers, alcoholics, people with chronic lung disease, and others with conditions that make it difficult to fight off infection. Symptoms include fatigue, a chronic dry cough, and shortness of breath. The good news is that L. pneumophila, the water-loving germ that causes Legionnaires' disease, was rare in the study. Only 3 out of 6,000 genetic sequences tested were L. pneumophila. Legionnaires' disease is a severe type of pneumonia, and outbreaks have been linked to L. pneumophila-contaminated water in large central-air-conditioning systems, whirlpool spas, and other sources of water droplets. "The new study emphasizes the need for us to periodically get rid of biofilm on our showerheads. Change the showerhead once a year or more frequently, like they do in hospitals, to prevent mineral deposits and biofilm.. Metal showerheads appear to be less likely than plastic showerheads to grow biofilm, according to the researchers. “
If after reading the above article you are scared to death of you showerhead you can either change it out (NBS has dozens to choose from) as my blog directs or at least clean your old one up. The easiest way to do that is to purchase a bottle of CLR or similar product, pour it into an old bleach bottle with the top cut off and the handle left intact. Use the handle to tie the bottle onto the shower head rod with the head fully immersed in the cleaner. Not only will that kill any bacteria present it will get rid of lime scale and other hard water stains that are probably making your showerhead not work as well as it should. For more details on installing a new showerhead read my blog at:
http://nationalbuildersupply.blogspot.com/2009/01/how-to-install-new-shower-head-without.html .

Changing a Sink Drain

I ran across a simple question over the weekend. Simple means I figured I could answer it…LOL and also thought it was an isolated question until I saw it twice in the same weekend on 2 different forums and no one had answered it. The question was how easy is it to replace the kitchen (or bathroom for that matter) sink drain ring? That’s the ring you see from the top of the sink that your basket strainer fits into. Someone had told the writer that it was a piece of cake to change. I’ve never been good at making cakes, much better at eating them, but I can see how a novice might find it tough to do because of a simple fact. The drain ring isn’t held down by a simple screw thread or ring. The ring does apply the strength to the connection but plumbers putty or some other sealant is there to keep the ring sealed and water tight and this putty can make it feel impossible to remove and if you don’t know the basics you don’t even know the putty is there.
The simple fix is accomplished by loosening the connections to the drain ring under the sink. If you have just a straight drain line into a “p” trap you need only remove whatever is hold the drain down because the drain line is only slipped into the “p” trap so there is nothing to remove nor should you even mess with the trap. If you have a garbage disposal just loosen the pipe from the top of the disposal and do not loosen anything with the disposal. When the ring is free from its screw connection you will have to pry from above or force from below the ring to break it free from the putty. Once you have it free clean all of the old putty away, replace with a new bead of putty and reassemble the ring to the drain line and tighten it down until the putty oozes out evenly around the ring. Clean that excess off, check for leaks under the sink and you’re done. Don’t try to skip the putty and think that you can just tighten it enough to keep it from leaking. You will bend your steel sink, crack the finish on an enameled sink or break the porcelain sink long before the leak would stop. USE THE PUTTY.

Smoke Test for Plumbing Leaks, Anybody know a Plumber who Smokes?

As I have mentioned so many times before the most well read of my blogs and the ones that produce the most comments and questions are the ones about “What is that Smell?”. Face it guys we all are capable of producing some pretty bad smells in the bathroom but a little air freshener and a few minutes that goes away. The kids giggle, your wife complains and maybe the neighbors threaten to move. I Have no wife and the kids are grown so my little dog “Nate” is the victim in my house. If I head for the bathroom he starts running madly around the house and across the furniture. The smell that aggravates us all, though, is the mysterious “sewer” smell that we just cant trace. I have talked about dry “P” traps, iron sulfide from bad anodes in the water heater, bacteria in the well, broken drains outside allowing water to pool against a basement wall and the list goes on and on. But there are still more examples that show up every day on a forum somewhere and some are just down right stubborn. There is one working its way through one of my favorite sites now that we still don’t have the final answer but thought you would like to see the progression and frustration that people go through trying to track the source of an annoying and embarrassing smell.
Here is the initial thread: “ We have a sewer smell from under sink and adjoining closet, but not from drains? We recently moved into a three year old house, which had been vacant for six months. We've started noticing a strong sewer smell from the cabinet beneath one of the bathroom sinks, and also slightly noticeable in the adjoining closet. The smell doesn't appear to be coming from the actual drain (the sink smells fine) and all drains are draining fine. I wiped down the cabinet beneath the sink with a disinfectant and poured some bleach down the drain for good measure, and after a couple of days the smell had gone. Today, the lawn sprinklers ran and it came back very strongly. I haven't yet been able to verify if it's present when it rains. However, our sprinklers use the same water supply as the house, and don't create any kind of sulfurous odor so I'm not positive this isn't just a coincidence. This is a downstairs bathroom, and I don't see any vent connection directly on this pipe beneath the sink. Any suggestions as to how I should go about troubleshooting or fixing this? Im really not looking forward to the prospect of having our house torn apart to track this down since we only just moved in”.


First response: Sounds like you may have a leak in a drain pipe. Is this downstairs bathroom over a crawlspace or basement where you could look around see evidence of a leak?


Thread continues: Unfortunately it's not. As far as I know, the house sits on a one piece concrete slab. This room is against an exterior wall. If it's relevant, the house is wood framed, stucco exterior and is essentially single-storey but with a bonus room and bathroom upstairs. ”


Second response: If there is a floor drain in the bathroom the trap could be dry, also if there is a toilet the seal could be leaking gas but not water unless there is back presure. Resetting it could solve the problem.


Another question: Just to make sure we haven't missed anything simple: Are you sure there isn't a failed AAV/mechanical/cheater vent under the sink? I recently experienced this problem. Before I figured it out it, the smell was worse some days compared to others for reasons I never figured out.


Thread continues: There is one of these in that bathroom but it's under the other sink (two sinks, one on each side of the room). The one with the mechanical vent doesn't smell at all, although I noticed today it drains a bit slower than the one with a 'real' vent. Any way to test these cheater vents? I know if they stick open they will smell horrible, but I'm wondering if this one could be stuck closed or not opening properly.Had some different plumbers out today, the and thought that a joint in the vent pipe right before where it exits the roof was to blame. I'm not totally convinced yet (the joints looked pretty good after it was removed) but it's hard to tell, it's been dry and the smell has almost gone on it's own. I did run that sprinkler zone for an hour today to try and get the smell to come back, but it didn't. So perhaps it's not linked to wet ground after all. I'm desparately hoping this will have solved it and that no slab work is required, but I guess I won't know until it next rains heavily. Thanks for all the advice, it's much appreciated.


The next response: We currently have the same problem and as we recently had a plumber here twice fixing leaks and replacing toilets, I knew it wasn't in the house. I decided it was time to call the City's Public Works Dept. (we're still waiting for them to arrive). One of my neighbors just had a sewer back-up problem and had to move out for a week while floors were ripped out and pipes, flooring etc. were replaced. We have this added coverage on our insurance and hope you do too. I'll let you know how it turns out.


Thread continues: Thanks for the info, there's a floor drain in the shower, but it gets regular use (2x a day) so I don't think the trap is dry. We recently had a blocked toiled drain that wasn't solvable by plunging or chemicals, and called a plumber out. There isn't a close by cleanout so he removed the toilet to snake through there. He did fit a new wax gasket to it, and surprisingly the smell is barely noticeable in the water closet, which adjoins the sink cabinet. Some more information: It rained heavily today, and the odor has got worse. It's now noticeable throughout the whole house. I also noticed the ground seemed more damp outside the affected area. I removed a plastic trim/sealing ring from where the sink drain exits the back of the cabinet, and the odor seems to be coming from there. There is a roof vent right above this area, but it appears to be clear. I was able to lower a length of hosepipe into it, and when the toilet is flushed/faucet is run I hear water clearly through it.

Next response: (Are we getting close yet?) Based on the above, is it fairly safe to assume it's a cracked or leaking pipe somewhere in the wall or below the floor? If so, any ideas what should I expect as far as getting it repaired?

And then a break through?: I've pulled out some more fiberglass insulation from the wall behind the sink today, and here's what I saw: (dimensions are approximate)The 2" vent pipe enters an open 4" pipe just above floor level. It's pressed against one side, and has pieces of wood wedging it in place on the other side. There's not very much gap between the inner pipe and the outer pipe, but there is some. I dropped a shop-vac hose down there so it was resting on the lip of the 4" pipe, and turned it on for a couple of seconds. Then I disconnected the hose from the shop vac and could definitely smell the odor from it. Repeated this 3 or 4 times to verify, and got the same result each time. So I'm fairly sure the smell is escaping from the gap where the smaller pipe exits the larger one, which is probably bad. What would my next step be? I know from here on out it could get hideously expensive if they have to start digging up the floor. They've mentioned cameras etc. but I'm wondering if there's any specialist equipment (gas analyzer?) that I should specifically be asking for.

Response: If the 2" vent pipe is vertical and goes into the 4" pipe then it appears you have found your problem. If it were a horizontal run I would expect you would have noticed water leakage. Without a picture (although a good description) I would say you have sewer gases escaping from the gap between the 2" and 4" piping. Depending on what type pipe(s) you have there you should be able to connect the two together with a "Fernco" style coupling that fits each size pipe.
AND
You're saying the 2" and the 4" pipes dont make a solid connection???? Let me get my head to stop spinning.....The 2" enters an open end of the 4" and is just wedged in there? Whomever did that should be beaten severely about the head and shoulders with a dirty sock pulled out of a clogged toilet.
AND
This was the same as my initial reaction to his statement, but I felt he had enough troubles already. "as the home owner stated that he has already had "plumbers" out to investigate this problem and they had not found it, the homeowner found what appears to be the problem. Hopefully the homeowner is an adept DIY and can fit some type of coupling onto these two pipes. I am not recommending this, but at this time duct tape would be an alternative to what he has

Thread continues: Sorry guys, I didn't explain that part very clearly. As best we can tell, the 4" pipe isn't actually 'used' in the drain system, although it appears to be drain pipe it's acting more as a conduit from what I can see. I know the house is built on a concrete slab, although I'm not familiar enough with building practices here to know whether or not all the plumbing is encased in concrete, or whether it sits in the dirt below the slab. If it's the latter, this 4" piece of pipe seems like it's set into the concrete, and the 2" pipe just passes through it. Both pipes are set vertically. At least I hope this is what's going on. The smell has been gradually fading over this past few days, but it hasn't rained at all which could explain it. With that said, the source of the odor did appear to be the gap between the pipes. My hope is that it was just residual but I guess we'll see once it rains heavily again.

Now to find a plumber who smokes? Or maybe one with a can of spray foam?Duct tape?: The quickest way to detect the leak is to smoke test the drain line from just outside your house. I know that sounds like a big deal but it's actually very simple IF you know where your clean-out fitting is outside the house. Any big box hardware store will have the non-toxic smoke packs. You blow the smoke with a small fan into the clean-out fitting (make sure and plug the "downstream" side of the line, and the smoke will show up at any leaks in the vent pipes. The smoke is very dense and will show up if there is a cracked pipe, etc. Just make sure and plug the downstream (or street side) of the drain line before testing. Also, probably unlikely, but you might first call your water/sewer company and see if they will come out and smoke test the line for you. Most places won't but I've encountered some companies will. Yet another opinion: I'm not aware of any "easy" test that you can conduct to confirm a leak. (the smoke test will confirm you have leak somewhere, but not pinpoint it if smoke shows up in that sleeve). A "hard" test would be to isolate the line (somehow plug it on both ends, don't know if that's possible, and probably not practical) and pressure test it with air or water. If it won't hold a constant pressure then you definitely have a leak


Well I guess you can get the picture? Short of breaking concrete, tearing out sheetrock and studs and going through multiple plumbers along with several of us well meaning forum contributors, some smells just can’t be found easily. I suspect the smoke test will show the problem to be a leak in that drain line, The mystery continues and Ill keep you informed as the thread continues.

Major Brand Customer Service

I wrote a blog a few weeks ago about a forum thread where the questioner was seeking a part for an ancient Moen shower. I advised the writer to call Moen’s customer service department for help because years ago Moen upped the ante in the fixture business buy instituting their “lifetime warranty” policy. I went on to blog about and include excerpts from their warranty. This policy from Moen has literally forced their competition to match the deal and many have so the next time you have a problem with a faucet or fixture of any kind think warranty. If you had a car problem the first thing you would think is to ask the manufacturer for help and plumbing fixtures are no exception. I have read many examples of companies sending entire replacement units when parts for an older model could not be found.
Here is a list of the toll free numbers for the brands that National Builder Supply carry:
Toto- 1-888-295-8134
Danze Customer Service- 1-877-530-3344
Price Pfister- 1-800-732-8238
Moen- 1-800-289-6636
Grohe- 1-800-444-7643
Matco-Norca- 1-800-443-7526
Delta 1-800-345-3358
Houzer 1-800-880-3639

If your brand isn’t there simply “Google” the brand and look for the “contact us” segment of their web site. Business is tough for all of us these days and customer service is the buzz word. Give them the chance or the challenge to help you with your problem before you rush out and start spending money on replacement parts or before replacing an old fixture.

While we’re on the subject of customer service it is the key to success at NBS so if you are looking to replace or add a new faucet or fixture give them a call at (866) 355-0310.
Did you know they also have Progress lighting fixtures and a full line of beautiful furniture quality bathroom vanities?

More on Handicap Access and the ADA

In 1990 the United States enacted legislation (The Americans with Disabilities Act) to protect the rights of the disabled in the work place and regarding adequate public access. I have to admit when this law came down, looking at it as a businessman, I thought that it was just another governmental intrusion in our lives and an reasonable expense to businesses. It should be noted, though, that the employment part of the law only applies to businesses with 15 or more employees and should not place an unreasonable burden on businesses. Now that the law has been in effect for almost 20 years we take for granted handicap parking spaces, better public restrooms with handicap access, ramps at curbs, wider entrance doors and a myriad of other things I have become so much of our day to day life that they are invisible. As a disabled person, now, myself I no longer think of these things as unreasonable nor as invisible. In order to continue any semblance of a normal life these things are a necessity to me every day. I have to hope for a close or handicap space in a parking lot, can only shop on my own in stores that furnish the little electric scooters and the idea of having to answer the call of nature away from home would be virtually impossible without restrooms with ADA height toilets and grab bars. But I received a great letter the other day , in response to one of my blogs published in Articles.Com, that reminded me that there is still more work to be done, more places that need to be adapted so that people with disabilities can enjoy some of the same things as everyone else. Here is the letter I received. I have removed specific info regarding the state involved , for the time being.
“A very interesting and useful article. It caused me to think about something I have been pondering for some time. I am a Park Ranger and I have a project in mind that needs a little more ADA knowledge than I possess. At my park we have four cabins of about 900 sq.ft. I am interested in taking one of them and making it fully handicapped accessible - entry, kitchen, bathroom, bedroom, etc. (at the same time, I want to vastly increase its energy efficiency.) My problems are: 1/ I need to know how each room can be improved, and 2/ I don't have any money. Ultimately, if I can figure out how to locate funding, I would like to make the cabin an ADA/Energy Efficiency showplace for the whole state park system, at the minimum. Certainly, I would love to have all four of our cabins meet the same standards, but that's down the road a ways. I would be satisfied if the idea could spread throughout our whole park system.”
My answer was as follows:
“As you may know I am disabled, myself, thus my interest in ADA efficiency as well as being enthused with your idea. I would have thought that you could get funding from your governing source or maybe tap some "stimulus funds". If those are not available then I would be pleased to try to help in some way. Why don't we start by trying to see what it would take construction wise then financially to make it happen. I would suggest you seek out a local architect to draw up some plans and to assist in the costing on a pro bono basis. If you then have a target amount of cost we could work towards getting donations, corporate sponsors or individuals to assist. You would be surprised at how much assistance you can get locally from sources just by asking. Volunteer to speak at local business meetings, Jaycees, Lion’s Clubs , etc. Get your local newspaper involved, churches, radio stations, TV stations etc. Lastly the sponsor of my blog site is National Builder Supply, although I can’t speak for them, their owner is a great young man that might assist by donating some of the plumbing equipment. I don't mind asking when you have your ducks in a row. To further this type of involvement from businesses you would offer a “donations” plaque on the cabin thanking those folks who donated or assisted in the conversion. With some more info about you park and how many more people could use the facilities annually I would also be pleased to use your letter, my answer and other info on one of my daily blogs to see if we can generate some interest.”Obviously the more I thought about the more I wanted to help and additionally to encourage folks to look around your community for places that may have slipped through the cracks and may still need some fundamental help in allowing access to those who have difficulties getting around. Something as simple as deficiencies at your local ball park may be keeping a parent or grandparent from being able to attend a game for a child. If you see a problem see what you can do to offer a fix for it.

Replacing Bathroom Subfloor and maybe get yourself a new Toilet

I see many questions and discussions about replacing toilets and/or the sub floor in bathrooms. Bathroom floors are probably the worst areas in the home for rot potential in the sub floor. BTW for the uninitiated the sub floor is the material, usually plywood, which forms the actual floor of your home if it is constructed with a wooden floor truss system (as opposed to a concrete slab) or the floor that spans the trusses for multiple story homes of wooden construction. The sub floor, in better homes, is usually 3/4” plywood or OSB(oriented strand board) but some homes of cheaper construction may use a smaller thickness plywood or OSB or even some form of “masonite” type board. As I said the bathroom is the usual place where this sub floor fails due to simple rot caused by an abundance of moisture, usually under a long leaking toilet, the vinyl flooring has begun to come unglued or if you have ceramic bath tile the grout is allowing water from the tub or shower area to seep through. The homeowner usually isn’t aware of the problem until either a leak appears in an are below the bathroom or maybe you sit down on the toilet and feel that is unstable (rocking) or you feel a soft or bouncing feeling to the floor. Now comes the solution. The floor must be torn out and replaced from the sub floor up. Not an easy or inexpensive fix but it does have to be done and look at as an opportunity to make Momma happy with a new floor surface and to make yourself happy with that new “comfort height” Toto toilet that your neighbor has that you have been coveting. Don’t panic, the commandment says not to covet your neighbors ass not his Toto toilet. The following is a brief discussion group thread that briefly discusses the replacement of the subfloor and the common problems which arise and the answers:

Q: "Looks like I'm ripping the sub floor from the Bathroom up. The toilet Drain is on top of 1/4 Plywood (remember I said the sub floor should have been 3/4” at best). Do I remove the toilet drain and then place it back on top of the ¾” floor +concrete board (that’s the board used when you are installing ceramic tile, it provides a more stable surface) + tile or do I remove all the old 1/4 and install my 3/4 and use a few wax wings to set the toilet back now? This would keep me from having to remove the drain. I was looking and they want $20 for a new Toilet Drain comes in 3" or 4". What does a average toilet use. "

A: "The toilet flange should sit flush on top of the finished floor level with only the thickness of the flange above the finished floor level. It should be bolted securely to the floor.Then the toilet will seal properly with one wax ring as intended. Do not stack wax rings (or more than two anyway), because you run the risk of squeezing the wax into the pipe and clogging it when you anchor the toilet back down. You need to look at the size of YOUR drain (aka closet bend drain pipe) to determine what size flange that you need...usually 3" but could be 4".
In addition, it is important to rebuild the floor under the toilet because a leaking closet flange probably rotted the original floor. The 1/4" flooring is entirely too thin to be supportive. Ideally, you should peel the existing flooring back to the floor joists, raise the closet flange to the finish floor height by cutting into the vertical sewer drain below the floor and extending it the proper amount, replace the subfloor with 3/4" plywood, install the new finish flooring, and reset the toilet. Don't use more than one wax ring. If you find that you have to, something isn't right."

There was great info for the solution, kudos to the guys that provided the answer. The things to take away are 1/4” plywood or anything else is WAY TOO THIN for sub floor. Don’t take short cuts in repairing and replacing the toilet, drain and flange. Lastly avoid the temptation to use more than 2 wax seating rings to deal the toilet to the flange. You cannot imagine how many discussion group questions Ive seen where someone has installed a new toilet and had it immediately overflow everywhere because the excess wax rings had fallen down into the drain and completely occluded the drain line. By the way they immediately try to fault the manufacturer of the toilet….”the damn thing must be defective”!

Let's Play...WHATS THAT STINK?

As most of you know I make my email address (faucetman886@gmail.com) available to anyone that reads my blog, published articles or comments on discussion rooms and forums. Why? Because I do this to help folks and to learn. With my email address available to anyone I get some interesting feedback as well as direct questions from readers.
With the popularity of my “what’s that smell?” blogs (there are at least four in circulation) they seem to evoke the most comments and questions such as the one below that I got this week:
Q: ”I have that stinky problem you were describing. It's in all of the bathrooms, the laundry room and the kitchen. To me it smells like a wet, soiled rag has been sitting around in each of those rooms for a week. Our house is only 12 years old. We tend to have problems with our washer. It's a High Efficiency, but every once in a while when I start a load, I come back in an hour and it hasn't even squirted water into the machine. It seems to have done everything else, but no water. It also does this thing where it says it's too sudsy, so it just sits there and doesn't rinse and drain. Now, I don't know if this has anything to do with our stink problem, but I figure I better give you as much info. as possible. Also, we're on City sewer. In your article you explained that it may have something to do with the "p" pipe not being filled with water. Do I need to go around and open every pipe up in the house? And how do I do that? Especially the pipe behind the washer, because I think ours is probably behind the wall too.”
A: “Probably not a "p" trap problem, that tends to be localized. Just a guess could be either your water heater or if you are on a well your well could be contaminated with a iron bacteria that makes the water smell and thickens the water. This would cause your washing machine to malfunction as you describe have you noticed a black or grayish tinge to your water or white clothes or blackish stains in your toilets or sinks? If so that could be the problem and you would need to decontaminate the well with a chemical treatment.
More than likely though is the water heater. After about 8 years +/- the anodes in the water heater. These are aluminum and are made to attract iron particles and slowly disintegrate and produce iron sulfate in your hot water. This then causes your hot water to have a sulfur like smell. In either case the hot water heater needs to be drained and cleaned out and the anodes replaced. If the well is the problem you would have to decontaminate the hot water heater of the black fungus through basically the same procedure. If the hot water heater has sludge in it the water would smell and it would also cause the problem with your washer because of the sludge in suspension in your water.
Start by running a sink of all hot water and see if it smells badly. Then do the same with just cold water. If the hot water is the only thing that smells then it’s probably just the HWH. If the cold water smells also then you have a supply problem. I hope this helps and please let me know the outcome.”