I write this article with some real specific experience on dealing with contractors and their subs. I have, in the past 30 years, had built 3 homes and renovated probably 10. With each of these projects I learned more and more lessons and with each asked my friends and family just to take a gun and shoot me if I ever even spoke of doing either again. My last experience in having a home built ended in a major cost overrun which taught me the legal lesson of the difference between the words “will” and “should”. You see my iron clad contract which made all of the provisions I requested and guaranteed the finished price stated that the final price “SHOULD NOT EXCEED X $$”. $40,000 later I discovered it should have said, “WILL NOT EXCEED X $$”. The word “will” affirming the agreement while the word “should” infers some sense of a possibility of the price changing and changing it did ending in a final demand by the contractor for the aforementioned $40,000 before I could move into the home.
While most home contractors out there are legitimate and do great work, the list of nightmare contractors is long and represents thousands of lost dollars and a myriad of disappointments. To avoid hiring the contractor from hell I offer the following advice:
1. Make plans
Before you begin your process of locating, interviewing, investigating and hiring a contractor you should have a completed set of plans for your project including detailed drawings and specifications. Without these plans in place you are asking a tradesman to bid on a nebulous non specific job and you are asking for trouble. A conscientious contractor will want not only a complete set of blueprints but also a sense of what homeowners want out of a project and what they plan to spend. Once these plans are in place, stick to them. Making changes to plans after work begins could lead to cost overruns and delays.
2. Get recommendations
Start with your friends, family and neighbors. Check with the national associations of the trade that you wish to hire for a list of members in your area, Angie’s List, which is an on going internet site which lists real personal recommendations and warnings in your specific area, and maybe check an individual business with the Better Business Bureau. I hesitate to mention the BBB because this is an organization of paid members which in some cases may also skew their results.
In smaller areas you may also talk with a building inspector, who should know which contractors routinely meet code requirements and may be able to give you advice regarding code requirements. Visit your local building supply or hardware store, they know the local contractors and which ones have the best reputations. Although most of the big box stores do have professionals that either they recommend or that they can sell you the services of, remember they are being recommended because of an existing relationship with the store. The store is likely making a profit on your transaction and thus their opinion may be skewed. In some cases you may have recourse back to the store but make sure that is the case and be aware that this arrangement may cause your cost to be higher. I have heard many horror stories about the contractor who was hired through the retailer only to disappoint the customer and satisfaction only coming after considerable effort if at all.
3. Call your prospective Contractors
Now that you have a list of possible contractors, consider that you are an employer interviewing a prospective employee. Make calls to each of your prospects and ask them the questions that you feel are important to you which should include the following:
•Do they take on projects of your size?
•Are they willing to provide references from suppliers or banks?
•Will they give you a list of previous clients? Remember, though, they are not going to give you names of dissatisfied customers so you are going to have to do some of your own research on their work.
•How many other projects do they typically have going at the same time?
•Do they maintain their own tradesmen or do they have to depend on subcontractors? If they have to use subs you may be put in a position of having to research their reputations as well. Sub contractors can be the weakest link in the chain of getting your project done and are the easiest excuse your contractor can use for a lack of progress or delays on your job. It is important, therefore, that the contractor have a good relationship with his subs and is good with his scheduling of those subs.
These answers should give you an idea of the company's availability, reliability, how much attention they'll be able to give your project and how smoothly the work will go.
4. Invite them over to see your job
Once you have made these phone calls, pick three or four contractors to show them your proposed project, to obtain an estimate and for further discussion and questions. A contractor should be able to answer your questions satisfactorily and in a manner that puts you at ease. It’s important that you feel comfortable with the contractor you choose, that you communicate well and that you have a sense of trust. Remember this person and their crews will be in your home for hours at a time.
5. Build trust by verifying the facts
Call up former clients to find how their project went and ask if you can see the finished job. Ask if they know of other customers of this contractor so that you can find additional references that didn’t come from the contractor himself. You should ask to see a current job site and see for yourself how the contractor works. Is the job site neat and safe? Are workers courteous and careful with the homeowner's property and is this homeowner happy, so far, with his results?
6. Demand proof of proper licensing and insurance.
Make sure the contractor is licensed to do business in your state and that he has proper general liability and workers-compensation insurance. Learn the requirements in your state and verify that contractor is licensed.
7. Get bids
To compare bids, ask everyone to break down the cost of materials, labor, profit margins and other expenses. Generally materials account for 40 percent of the total cost; the rest covers overhead and the typical profit margin, which is 15 to 20 percent. Don't let price be your guide. I believe, that as hard as it is to do, you should disregard the lowest bid especially if it is significantly lower than the others. A bid like this can usually point to a desperate contractor or a major mistake in his calculations. Even though you may have the law on your side to enforce this contract you still will be burdened with the legal costs and efforts to win and you may end up with a project left unfinished or poorly completed. These situations may be more frequent as a sign of our current unhealthy economy. Beyond technical competence, comfort should play an equal or greater role in your decision. The single most important factor in choosing a contractor is how well you and he communicate. All things being equal, it's better to spend more and get someone you're with whom you are comfortable.
8. Discuss and agree upon a payment schedule
Payment schedules can also speak to a contractor's financial status and work ethic. If they want half the bid up front, they may have financial problems or be worried that you won't pay the rest after you've seen the work. For large projects, a schedule usually starts with 10 percent at contract signing, three payments of 25 percent evenly spaced over the duration of the project and a check for the final 15 percent when you feel every item on the punch list has been completed. In no circumstances should you exceed an initial payment of 30% as a down payment and even then only upon the delivery and acceptance, by you, of the all of materials.
9. Put it in writing/Obtain a contract
Draw up a contract that details every step of the project: the payment schedule as above; proof of liability insurance and worker's compensation, if a contractor does not have proper workers compensation insurance your home owners insurance or you personally may be held as liable; a start date and projected completion date; specific materials and products to be used; and a requirement that the contractor obtain lien releases (which protect you if he doesn't pay his bills) from all subcontractors and suppliers. Insisting on a clear contract isn't mistrust, it's about insuring a successful project.
10. Pay by check or if possible by credit card.
The use of a credit card gives you the leverage to charge back any disputed charges. If paying by check write it out to the contracting company rather than to an individual. Make final payments only when the work is completed to your satisfaction. A reputable contractor will not threaten you or pressure you to sign documents if the job is not finished properly.
Will these steps prevent problems? Yes. Is there still a chance that something will fall between the cracks and you will become the victim of a bad contractor? Yes. So practice vigilance. Be aware of what’s going on with your job and insist that problems be corrected as they happen. Don’t fall into a false sense of security and think that it will all be OK. Remember the first principle of “Murphy’s Law”….If any thing can go wrong, it will!!!
Monday, December 29, 2008
Thursday, December 18, 2008
DANZE…… STYLE AND SUBSTANCE AT AN AFFORDABLE PRICE
DANZE is the fastest-growing plumbing company in America and when teamed with National Builder Supply we are able to bring the latest styles to market – all backed by the highest quality and world-class customer service at a price to fit your budget.
DANZE’s products are beautifully made, inside and out, representing the pinnacle of both style and design while offering something for every taste and every home. It is art that is designed to be used while offering years of beautiful lustrous finishes, utilizing solid brass waterways and ceramic disc valves which provide a drip-free guarantee. DANZE brings unique design solutions to homeowners who are driven by quality and attention to detail in their home furnishings. All of this and the best pricing on the American market today.
As a major dealer of DANZE quality products, for over 5 years, National Builder Supply maintains a constant inventory of over 1000 items valued at over $350,000. Our inventory contains 21 designs suites and over 370 different items such as:
Air Gaps
Hand Showers
Body Sprays
Robe Hooks
Faucet Extension Kits
Shower Arms
Faucet Valves
Shower Heads
Bar Faucets
Supply Elbows
Bathroom Sink Faucets
Tank Levers
Bidet Faucets
Toilet Paper Holders
Kitchen Sink Faucets
Towel Bars
Laundry Faucets
Towel Rings
Pantry Faucets
Tub Spouts
Pot Filler Faucets
Waste/Overflow Drains
Tub and Shower Faucets
And much, much more
This commitment to DANZE products guarantees you immediate availability and making it possible for us to ship your choices quickly, usually the same day, and as always offering free shipment on orders over $100.
Visit the National Builder Supply Website to review all of the beautiful DANZE products and see for yourself the how the style and substance can had beauty to your home.
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
FINALLY!! A FAUCET JUST FOR MAKING GRITS...ok so you can use it for pasta or veggies or stock, whatever that is
As I have mentioned in many of my blogs and “ezine” articles, in the past few weeks, more and more of the homes being built and remodeled, today, are including things commonly found in commercial kitchens. First it was the large “Sub Zero” type refrigerator, then the commercial styled multiple (up to 6) burner gas ranges, double ovens and heavy duty and sometimes multiple dishwashers. At this point I should say that many of these features are wonderful even for the small home especially of you enjoy cooking and entertaining. I don’t fall into that category, the best thing I make for dinner is reservations.
I lived, for over 8 years during the 1980’s, in Los Angeles. While there one of the homes I owned was a large (10,000 sq. ft., that’s large to me) house in the Hollywood Hills that was built in 1929. Before I bought it, a complete remodel of many of the features of the house had been undertaken. Not only did it have a Sub Zero refrigerator it had 2 that were built side by side. I’m a poor boy from the south. After coming up with the money to buy the house I didn’t know how we would ever have enough groceries to fill both of those fridges. The kitchen also included Corian countertops, (the state of the art in solid surface materials at that time), double dishwashers, multiple sinks all over the kitchen, 3 wall ovens, and 2 countertop gas 4 burner cook tops for a total of 8 burners. These things were rare and only found in the larger homes. Although at the time I bought the house I could have never envisioned needing all of that, during the time we lived there we held a wedding for close friends with over 300 guests (the bride also wanted live swans swimming in my pool...that’s where I drew the line) and at least one July 4th party at which we welcomed over 200 of my “closest friends”(that’s California speak for any and everyone you know or have ever met). It was then that I realized why people who do a lot of entertaining want and need the big kitchen. Even if your home is only the designated holiday destination for your families, the convenience of having the extra room and additional appliance capability can be worthwhile. By today’s standards that big old house of mine would not even phase most people and in fact would have probably been completely torn out and remodeled in the last 5 years to bring it up to date.
The modern day version of this house would have replaced the Corian with granite or something even more exotic, large commercial ranges, elaborate faucets and fixtures and now the pot filler faucet can be added to the list of things that are starting to become mainstream in kitchens. A pot filler faucet is a great idea for your kitchen. Large pots fill quickly. The pot filler faucet swings out of the way when not in use. These articulated arm faucets save your back and eliminate probably 50 percent of the work when it comes to carrying water from the sink to your stove. With a pot filler faucet over your stove, you never have to carry a pot full of water again saving wear and tear on you. Water is actually heavy. One gallon weighs a little over eight pounds. This means you might need 2 or 3 gallons or maybe 20 lbs of water to boil a large pot of pasta. During holidays, the last thing you want is to be worn out from hauling water from the sink to the stove leaving you plenty of time to work out in your private gym or to go out and run that habitual holiday marathon race, or maybe just give you more time to spend with your guests and families. As a confirmed bachelor for some 30 years I depend on Fran Byrd from the National Builder Supply home office for a woman’s opinion. She rarely gets credit for her help and many quotes, so today I’m going to pass on a woman’s opinion not just mine, of the pot filler faucet... “As far as pot fillers go, they are wonderful. Especially for those big stock pots. You know how heavy those things can be empty but you fill it with water and you need to call for help just to get it over to the stove. I am sure you know that the pot filler is mounted above or in the deck of the counter beside the stove and hooks to the cold water (since we all know cold water boils faster) then you can fill that big ole pot right there on the stove”. My response…what’s a stock pot???.
Most plumbers would have no problems installing a pot filler faucet, if he does its time to get a different plumber. Most pot fillers require only one cold water supply line. This line can usually be installed in 30 minutes or less in most homes under construction. It may be more difficult when remodeling an existing kitchen depending on accessibility to existing water lines and the wall behind your stove may necessitate some cutting and patching. Many times the water lines can be run through the back of the existing cabinets (like ice maker lines are retrofitted). The location of the pipe that feeds the pot filler faucet is very critical. If this pipe is not in the correct location, the faucet may be too low or it might not fold back completely against the wall. You will need dimensions, such as the height of the cook top burners above the finished height of the countertop and the height of your tallest pot. When added together, these dimensions tell you the minimum height above the countertop the tip of the faucet must be then add another inch to be safe.
Now its time to choose the faucet you want. Style, finish, price, etc are all things to consider. The faucet pictured above is the Danze #D205358 this item is part of the (Parma) Series priced starting at $172.60 at National Builder Supply. You should also make sure the faucet you choose has two separate on and off valves to prevent any damage that might be caused by a drippy faucet and remind your plumber that you want a separate shut off valve for the water line to the pot filler. Once you’ve made your choice make sure the dealer or manufacturer provide all of the technical info you need and provide instructions for installation. Then you’re ready for the installation and all set to cook your first pot of pasta, or grits if you are at my house. Ill have mine with cheese, butter and maybe some diced ham, thank you. A recipe for good southern grits can be yours for the asking.
Thursday, December 11, 2008
LOOKS LIKE WE WONT BE NEEDING THAT SEARS BIG CATALOG ANYMORE
Those of you who follow my writings and blogs know that I wrote a brief blog last month on the most expensive toilet on the market place today. Well expensive if you don’t include the diamond encrusted gold plated Los Angeles nouveau riche models. Well I’m just a poor boy from the south and my family was more “oldeau riche”, which means we had both the Sears AND the Montgomery Wards catalogs in our outhouse. No corn cobs for my family…we had money! I never knew what a bidet was until I went to Europe the first time after graduating from high school and Im sure that at that time I wasn’t the first to try to sit on the darn thing and fall in. Even till to today I’m not sure how they really work. Now the big high end homes in America today not only have granite countertops, stainless steel appliances AND Grohe faucets, they have bidets If they are REALLY expensive they have the TOTO Neorest Toilet that combines the best of self warming, self opening and closing seats but the comforts of a bidet (no toilet paper needed) and messages your delicate parts and probably can be programmed to play the top 40 songs this week in Tokyo. They are also remote controlled so you can preprogram the temperature of the washing water, and the seat and probably the 60” plasma screen TV hanging in front of the toilet in the bathroom which is larger in square footage than my first house.
Now for those of us that just can’t afford either physically, emotionally, financially or psychologically a $5200 toilet, TOTO is manufacturing the mini version, No its not a tiny toilet its just a replacement seat that does all the things that the big boy does for maybe 10 to 20% of the cost. Its called the WASHLET. Just to let you know, the WASHLET allows you to have a bidet and a toilet all in one. They are on all the public toilets in Japan and are simply amazing, if I may say so myself. So that means they should just fit my house perfectly! Back in the day you would need another plumbing line to install a bidet, you would need to get off the toilet and move yourself over to the bidet, adjust the water temp and then let it wash you, you would then need to towel yourself dry (so that’s how those things work). The WASHLET has taken this to another level. It attaches to your toilet just like a seat and installation is a breeze. This thing has a heated seat, heated water with temp control so you can adjust it to your own likings, it has a wand that extends from the back of it and washes you. It has several different spray patterns and massage features making it ideal for anyone. On the 200 and 300 there is also a heated air dryer that will dry you off so no towel or paper is ever involved, that adds to the "green" factor. No that doesn’t mean it leaves green stuff growing on your bottom, it means you save trees by not using toilet paper. They are great for the elderly (that’s me), the handicapped (that’s me too) and for just the plain self indulgent. It allows the elderly and handicapped to be more independent and the self indulgent to indulge more?? I think it would be a great idea as a gift for an elderly parent, relative or friend that may be infirm (you can put me on your list).
Here are some of the features and benefits of the 2 most popular models along with NBS pricing:
E200 $563.16
Newly Designed, a Revolution in Hygiene
Adjustable Heated Water Tank
Adjustable Rear and Front Washers
Adjustable Warm Air Dryer
Convenient Remote Control Oscillating Comfort Wash
Curved Rear case fits more French Curve Toilets (that’s the fancy modern style with the wrap around tank)
Adjustable, Heated Soft Close Seat
Trim sleek advanced technology. Upon activation, the automatic wand extends to provide a gentle stream of warm aerated water. The result? It offers an unparalleled level of comfort and clean. For maximum soothing, it includes a massage feature, a warm air dryer and a temperature controlled heated seat with energy saver functionality
Available in three attractive colors: colonial white, cotton white, and Sedona beige and in elongated and round styles
Quite simply, the Washlet E200 elevates the bathroom experience to greater heights of comfort.
S300 $727.44 (round bowl)
Engineered Luxury
New cleaner look featuring hidden cord design
New reinforced base plate for enhanced durability
Gentle aerated warm water washing
Massage feature with cycling motion
Warm air drying with variable 3 temp setting
Automatic air deodorizer (We all know the value of that)
Heated seat with temp control
Soft close antibacterial seat
Convenient wireless remote with large LCD panel
Docking Station for easy cleaning and Installation
The S300 is for those seeking the ultimate in pampering.
A convenient remote control allows you to adjust the seat and water temp and pressure. With a soothing cycling action the massage feature alternates between front and rear washing for maximum comfort and cleansing.
The WASHLET allows you to immerse yourself in total relaxation and bathroom pleasure
Visit the National Builder Supply website http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/?source=RW886 today for further info, up to date pricing and specials or write me here at the blogsite and I’ll gladly answer technical specifications and provide you with installation instructions.
Monday, December 8, 2008
DEFINITIONS FOR THE PLUMBING CHALLANGED (THAT’S ME)
As those of you who read my writings know already, I follow and comment on some 30 +/- DIY forums daily. Reading these questions brings to mind the need for some simple definitions of terms used by the pros as well as us “not-so-pros”.
Here is my list, write to me to add your favorite definition or to ask for something I’ve missed.
Closet Flange – This is the connection device that attaches to the drain or waste line at the Rough In that the toilet bolts down to. The Wax Ring fits on this flange before you screw the toilet down
Drain Pipes – DUH! these are the collection pipes that run from your fixtures (toilets, sinks, tubs, etc) to the soil pipe or soil stack.
Elbows – these are the premade pipe turns used to make bends in your plumbing piping. Commonly called ELS they can be plastic, copper, or metal depending on the type of piping construction you have in your home.
Main Shut off – this is the primary shut off valve for water coming into your house. Some local codes call for there to be an individual shut off valve for your home, usually located in your basement or a utility area. Other codes refer to the main shut off as the valve from the water utility at your meter at the street. Obviously of you have your own private water source, such as a well, you may have a main shut off at the well head or pump, at the pressure tank and/or yet another separate one inside the house. These are not to be confused with the individual Shut Off Valves that you should have at the water input on each fixture.
Plunger – The “Plumbers Friend”, should be familiar to all of us. It is usually a rubber or flexible plastic suction cup on the end of a wooden rod. This device is used to create suction to remove simple clogs in drains either in your sink, tub or toilet. There are many fancy designs on the market today but the old standby seems to still work best in my humble opinion.
Here’s a great tip I read the other day…to make a better suction especially on oddly shaped holes, put a thick coat of petroleum jelly (that’s Vaseline to us southerners no matter what brand it is).
Riser- a vertical supply or drain line
Rough In – this is the distance from the wall to the drain line where the toilet attaches. If your rough in is not correct then your toilet will either not fit because it will be too close to wall when assembled or the tank will sit too far away from the wall when installed. In this case the crocheted toilet paper cover your grandmother made you as a house warming gift will continually fall off the back of the tank and your guest wont be able to find that spare roll when they need it.
Shutoff Valve – Sometimes called the Stop Valve. Allows you to shut the water supply off to an individual fixture without shutting off the entire house supply. See my article “Another plumbing nightmare and how to avoid it…”.
Trap – or “P” trap (Also discussed in a previous article), is the the “U” shaped pipe under your sink, tub or other drain lines, other than toilets which are “S” and built into the toilet. This simple device traps water in the lowest point of the drain line and prevents sewer gas, methane, from escaping back into your house. A trap allowed to dry out from a lack of use in a seldom used area of the house can be a primary cause for unpleasant smells in the house. See my article WHAT IS THAT SMELL?? This is one of the most frequent complaints I read about in the discussion rooms.
Vent – or vent stack is a pipe or pipes that allow the sewer gas stopped by the Trap escape out into the house and not build up. A build up of these gases can be dangerous both from a breathing stand point or can be explosive. The vent also provides air to your drain system which allows water to flow more freely out of your house and into the septic or sewer system. Vents must extend, by code, a certain distance above the roof line of your house and must be of a certain diameter according to the number of fixtures it is venting. An improperly sized vent or placed in the wrong distance from the fixtures it is venting can be the cause of “burping” drains or toilets, or improperly draining fixtures.
Of course there are dozens of other plumbing definitions, but most, you would rarely read or use as an amateur plumber. I fully believe that if the job requires the actual replacement, or repiping of any type in your home that you call a professional licensed plumber. We take plumbing for granted but it really is a complicated system which must be installed according to proper code, sized, sloped and fitted properly to insure that you will have the least amount of problems.
Here is my list, write to me to add your favorite definition or to ask for something I’ve missed.
Closet Flange – This is the connection device that attaches to the drain or waste line at the Rough In that the toilet bolts down to. The Wax Ring fits on this flange before you screw the toilet down
Drain Pipes – DUH! these are the collection pipes that run from your fixtures (toilets, sinks, tubs, etc) to the soil pipe or soil stack.
Elbows – these are the premade pipe turns used to make bends in your plumbing piping. Commonly called ELS they can be plastic, copper, or metal depending on the type of piping construction you have in your home.
Main Shut off – this is the primary shut off valve for water coming into your house. Some local codes call for there to be an individual shut off valve for your home, usually located in your basement or a utility area. Other codes refer to the main shut off as the valve from the water utility at your meter at the street. Obviously of you have your own private water source, such as a well, you may have a main shut off at the well head or pump, at the pressure tank and/or yet another separate one inside the house. These are not to be confused with the individual Shut Off Valves that you should have at the water input on each fixture.
Plunger – The “Plumbers Friend”, should be familiar to all of us. It is usually a rubber or flexible plastic suction cup on the end of a wooden rod. This device is used to create suction to remove simple clogs in drains either in your sink, tub or toilet. There are many fancy designs on the market today but the old standby seems to still work best in my humble opinion.
Here’s a great tip I read the other day…to make a better suction especially on oddly shaped holes, put a thick coat of petroleum jelly (that’s Vaseline to us southerners no matter what brand it is).
Riser- a vertical supply or drain line
Rough In – this is the distance from the wall to the drain line where the toilet attaches. If your rough in is not correct then your toilet will either not fit because it will be too close to wall when assembled or the tank will sit too far away from the wall when installed. In this case the crocheted toilet paper cover your grandmother made you as a house warming gift will continually fall off the back of the tank and your guest wont be able to find that spare roll when they need it.
Shutoff Valve – Sometimes called the Stop Valve. Allows you to shut the water supply off to an individual fixture without shutting off the entire house supply. See my article “Another plumbing nightmare and how to avoid it…”.
Trap – or “P” trap (Also discussed in a previous article), is the the “U” shaped pipe under your sink, tub or other drain lines, other than toilets which are “S” and built into the toilet. This simple device traps water in the lowest point of the drain line and prevents sewer gas, methane, from escaping back into your house. A trap allowed to dry out from a lack of use in a seldom used area of the house can be a primary cause for unpleasant smells in the house. See my article WHAT IS THAT SMELL?? This is one of the most frequent complaints I read about in the discussion rooms.
Vent – or vent stack is a pipe or pipes that allow the sewer gas stopped by the Trap escape out into the house and not build up. A build up of these gases can be dangerous both from a breathing stand point or can be explosive. The vent also provides air to your drain system which allows water to flow more freely out of your house and into the septic or sewer system. Vents must extend, by code, a certain distance above the roof line of your house and must be of a certain diameter according to the number of fixtures it is venting. An improperly sized vent or placed in the wrong distance from the fixtures it is venting can be the cause of “burping” drains or toilets, or improperly draining fixtures.
Of course there are dozens of other plumbing definitions, but most, you would rarely read or use as an amateur plumber. I fully believe that if the job requires the actual replacement, or repiping of any type in your home that you call a professional licensed plumber. We take plumbing for granted but it really is a complicated system which must be installed according to proper code, sized, sloped and fitted properly to insure that you will have the least amount of problems.
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
A SHOT IN THE DARK? Things to consider when making lighting decisions
Any person who has remodeled their home or has embarked on building a new home from scratch knows about the varied of choices one needs to make before the project is complete. The last home I built, my 15 year old son and I lived the blueprints for 11 months. We sat up nights imagining the flow of each room, where the light switches would go, where to hang the light fixtures, what color to paint the walls, choosing the floor coverings. Every aspect affected the project in some way. So we thought it all through carefully. We walked the foundations (my son realized its was 4 feet off the day the footings were dug), measured the framing, generally ran the contractor crazy but we were certain we had all the answers until the week before the final punch list walk through the contractor asked…..what are you going to do about door knobs? Door knobs? You mean the doors didn’t come with knobs? No and the closets don’t come with ceiling lights, shelves and brackets either!
Additionally as the house took shape we realized that all of the thought we had put into light fixtures went by the wayside when the rooms took shape. Corners were dark, walls needed to be lit for anything we wanted to hang and be able to actually see, the kitchen fixture cast a shadow on the countertops which would have made cooking in the dark a newly acquired art. These faults are more prevalent in new construction but are equally important in a renovation because you can now correct all the lighting problems inherent in your existing house, with some careful thought, planning and some assistance from people that know lighting. Choosing a light fixture and planning for the right type of lighting may appear to be a challenge, but one of your greatest sources of information can be your dealer. Unlike the big box stores, who staff their lighting department with whoever isn’t working in the plumbing department today, lighting specialty and many internet dealers can be invaluable in providing guidance for helping you make those decisions easier. They can also be your best source for hanging heights, style, color, power needs, wattage etc. Many can offer help in positioning of each fixture by preparing a lighting plan. Even with this help you still need to live the plan, imagine how each fixture will affect your living space. Is one recessed light to little or six too many? Lighting can be an expensive and VERY PERMANENT part of your plan. So plan carefully and seek guidance.
The fixtures will generally fall under one or more of these four categories:
1.decorative (purely ornamental)
2. task (needed to make work surfaces clear and illuminate rooms)
3. protective and/or safety lighting (outdoor fixtures such as floods, spots, porch)
4. accent (to wash a wall or shine down on a specific non-traffic area)
5. ambient (background)
6. general lighting (the misc. category covering everything else and this is the one where “murphy’s law” will prevail because you won’t realize you needed it until after its too late)
Fixtures also come in different types:
chandeliers
pendants
spotlights
track lights
wall or ceiling-mounted (especially in bathrooms)
fluorescents
cabinet or undercabinet lighting fixtures.
Most of these need no further description here but do need to be thought of individually so you won’t forget that you need them. What each does require is proper selection, placement, scale, size, wiring/switching and most importantly must fit your style sensibility. Additionally, these days, more and more of us are becoming more concerned with the environment and the costs of operating a home. So ask about which lighting fixtures are most economical, consider the fixture’s illumination quality, as an example dark tinted bowls or shades cut down considerably on the quantity of light they emit. What type and size bulb does it take? Specialty bulbs can be VERY expensive to replace. Can it utilize low voltage or compact fluorescents? Lastly and probably the most important to you is to consider the style that is most likely to weather the test of time as opposed to that “satellite shaped” flying dining room chandelier that you thought “you just had to have” (my son chose that one).
In summation, everyone has their own preferences when it comes to the type of lighting and the decorative style of light fixtures that best reflects their own sense of taste. The most important thing to remember is to choose effective lighting for what you want to achieve, and choose fixtures that compliment your home and can do the most to promote the environment. When in doubt seek competent professional help.
As previously mentioned here on our blogsite, National Builder Supply has just become a Progressive Lighting dealer, offering choices from over 1700 individual fixtures offered with our “lowest price” guarantee that has made us your first and last stop for plumbing fixtures.
Additionally as the house took shape we realized that all of the thought we had put into light fixtures went by the wayside when the rooms took shape. Corners were dark, walls needed to be lit for anything we wanted to hang and be able to actually see, the kitchen fixture cast a shadow on the countertops which would have made cooking in the dark a newly acquired art. These faults are more prevalent in new construction but are equally important in a renovation because you can now correct all the lighting problems inherent in your existing house, with some careful thought, planning and some assistance from people that know lighting. Choosing a light fixture and planning for the right type of lighting may appear to be a challenge, but one of your greatest sources of information can be your dealer. Unlike the big box stores, who staff their lighting department with whoever isn’t working in the plumbing department today, lighting specialty and many internet dealers can be invaluable in providing guidance for helping you make those decisions easier. They can also be your best source for hanging heights, style, color, power needs, wattage etc. Many can offer help in positioning of each fixture by preparing a lighting plan. Even with this help you still need to live the plan, imagine how each fixture will affect your living space. Is one recessed light to little or six too many? Lighting can be an expensive and VERY PERMANENT part of your plan. So plan carefully and seek guidance.
The fixtures will generally fall under one or more of these four categories:
1.decorative (purely ornamental)
2. task (needed to make work surfaces clear and illuminate rooms)
3. protective and/or safety lighting (outdoor fixtures such as floods, spots, porch)
4. accent (to wash a wall or shine down on a specific non-traffic area)
5. ambient (background)
6. general lighting (the misc. category covering everything else and this is the one where “murphy’s law” will prevail because you won’t realize you needed it until after its too late)
Fixtures also come in different types:
chandeliers
pendants
spotlights
track lights
wall or ceiling-mounted (especially in bathrooms)
fluorescents
cabinet or undercabinet lighting fixtures.
Most of these need no further description here but do need to be thought of individually so you won’t forget that you need them. What each does require is proper selection, placement, scale, size, wiring/switching and most importantly must fit your style sensibility. Additionally, these days, more and more of us are becoming more concerned with the environment and the costs of operating a home. So ask about which lighting fixtures are most economical, consider the fixture’s illumination quality, as an example dark tinted bowls or shades cut down considerably on the quantity of light they emit. What type and size bulb does it take? Specialty bulbs can be VERY expensive to replace. Can it utilize low voltage or compact fluorescents? Lastly and probably the most important to you is to consider the style that is most likely to weather the test of time as opposed to that “satellite shaped” flying dining room chandelier that you thought “you just had to have” (my son chose that one).
In summation, everyone has their own preferences when it comes to the type of lighting and the decorative style of light fixtures that best reflects their own sense of taste. The most important thing to remember is to choose effective lighting for what you want to achieve, and choose fixtures that compliment your home and can do the most to promote the environment. When in doubt seek competent professional help.
As previously mentioned here on our blogsite, National Builder Supply has just become a Progressive Lighting dealer, offering choices from over 1700 individual fixtures offered with our “lowest price” guarantee that has made us your first and last stop for plumbing fixtures.
Monday, December 1, 2008
WHY SHOULD I CARE WHAT KIND OF FAUCET I BUY? I HAVE GRANITE COUNTERTOPS, ISNT THAT ENOUGH?
Kitchens and bathrooms have become the sole largest selling point in houses today. It is not uncommon for the simplest tract home to have a $60,000 kitchen remodel and the surprising thing for us old timers is that this investment returns dollar for dollar(if not multiples above) in appraised value of the home as well as esthetic influence to the new buyer. In this remodel the current trend is to stainless steel appliances, granite or at least solid surface counter tops and the ultimate in style, design and finish in fixtures.
There a literally hundreds of choices when it comes to kitchen and bathroom faucets. These choices can range in cost from below $100 to into the $1000’s with the emphasis invariably being on style or design as opposed to function. In past days if you turned the faucet and you got water then you considered it was better than going out to the well and pumping. If the water got hot it was a miracle. Yes folks I’m just about old enough to remember those days.Today is it the latest style? Polished nickle, stainless steel or oil rubbed bronze? Does the soap dispenser match? Soap dispenser? How does a faucet match the bar of Ivory soap laying on the drainer?
Then there was the leaking. If you had enough strength to turn the knobs hard enough then you got no leaks. Good news, today, is that all, except the cheapest faucets, can last a lifetime and rarely leak and many come with lifetime replacement guarantees either for parts or sometime even for full replacement of the faucet. I read in a discussion forum, 2 weeks ago, that a customer had called Moen to hopefully get some replacement parts for a faucet that was 17 years old. The customer service person regretted to inform him that the parts for that faucet had long since become unavailable so they were just going to send him a brand new faucet. Take a little time and find a faucet that you like since it's going to be with you for a long time. So we CAN take less time worrying about leaks and more about quality finish, style etc.
Even with this newly found carefree attitude you still need to understand what to look for to get the best product and to understand the function of a faucet so that if and when something does go wrong you can understand and not panic and head for the closest big orange box. A faucet consists of three parts, a valve that controls and directs the flow of water, a handle(s) or knob(s) and a spout. You can choose a faucet that gives you hot and cold water separately or in the single faucet models easily mix the two to give you the optimum temperature. These faucets contain a mixing valve that blends the hot and cold water before it ever reaches your hands.
There are four kinds of valves: compression, cartridge, ball, and ceramic disc. The last three are referred to as "washerless" valves. If you are buying a modern kitchen or bathroom fixture, you'll be buying a faucet with one of these three valves. How come? Because most manufacturers are building washer less valves that are reliable and don't drip. If you are into the look or feel that you need older style/designed kitchen and bathroom faucets, you will find it more difficult because they use compression valves that latter leak over time and have to be replaced. Thes e valves are the oldest technology and the least expensive. Turning the handle raises and lowers a stem. At the base of the stem is a rubber or plastic washer. It usually wears out over time and the faucet will leak. Special tools are needed to effect repairs on these types of faucets an along with the other inherent problems are more the reason to shop for better quality.
Cartridge valves, invented by Moen Faucets, enabled the invention of that single lever faucet I mentioned earlier.The cartridge controls the mixing of water temperatures. Cartridge valves last a long time, but will have to be replaced. How long they last depends on what kinds of materials are used in the cartridge. They may be plastic, plaster and metal, or ceramic which will last a long time.
The ball valve is an innovation of Delta Faucet. It is also used in Peerless and Brizo faucets and works like a cartridge. Current ball valves are stainless steel and nearly indestructible.
Ceramic valves are a European innovation. It's actually two slotted ceramic disks that rest against each other. One rotates to control temperature and raises and lowers to control volume of water. This valve eliminates rubber entirely. The water-tight seal is provided by the disks that are polished to near perfect flatness. Look for these on Price Pfister faucets as well as most European brands such as Grohe, both of which are sold by National Builder Supply. Faucets with ceramic discs are reliable and easy to use. Faucets that use ceramic disc valves are used in mid-range and high-end styles-faucets. If repair is ever needed, the entire ceramic-disc cartridge is replaced. A faucet with a washer less ceramic disk valve cartridge will be drip free. In fact, look for the words 'washer less" on the faucet packaging. How do I decide which to buy? Here are the basic things to consider in a kitchen faucet.
1.Choose your budget. Remember there are wide variables to consider when it comes to cost.. Even if you go for a more expensive European faucet, such as Grohe, my personal favorite (I drive a Mercedes why wouldn’t I want the equivolent in my kitchen?) you'll find many deeply discounted on the through the NBS website. No matter how much you decide to spend, look for the following things in a faucet
A). Ceramic or Metal Cartridge
Look for a ceramic cartridge, ball or disk valve faucet if it is in your budget. If not, look for stainless steel and brass since they also last a long time.
If in doubt about a faucet, go to the manufacturer's web site and find the replacement parts list for your faucet. It will usually tell you the actual materials used in the valve. If not, use the toll-free number and call the manufacturer's customer service department. If you do buy a faucet with a plastic cartridge, go ahead and get the replacement cartridge now — you'll need it eventually.
B). How easily does the faucet operate?
I have found that in my older age some faucets just arent as easy for me to push or pull. The same can apply if you have small children at home.
C).Ease of cleaning
Nooks and crannies are great on English muffins but can make them difficult to clean
D). Say no to Plastic
Look for brass metal construction and avoid plastic on handle. Good faucets feel heavy and very solid. A Grohe sprayer, as an example feels heavy enough to be used as a weapon...LOL
E). Pay careful attention to the finish
Better quality faucets will have a more even finish and in many cases more layers of plating which adds years to the look of your kitchen or bathroom.
D). Guarantee?
What type of promises of warranty or guarantee comes with the fixture, many today do offer some form of “lifetime” guarantee at least for replacement parts.
Still confused? Need help making a decision or need more info? Call the friendly customer service staff at National Builder Supply @ 1-866-746-7469
I try to remind folks that you will never feel pressured to buy from their customer service department because they are not on commission, instead they are paid bonuses based on your satisfaction. If they ask you to participate in a survey on your satisfaction please give them a break and answer the questions or give the company the opportunity to know if you did not get the info you needed or were not satisfied.
There a literally hundreds of choices when it comes to kitchen and bathroom faucets. These choices can range in cost from below $100 to into the $1000’s with the emphasis invariably being on style or design as opposed to function. In past days if you turned the faucet and you got water then you considered it was better than going out to the well and pumping. If the water got hot it was a miracle. Yes folks I’m just about old enough to remember those days.Today is it the latest style? Polished nickle, stainless steel or oil rubbed bronze? Does the soap dispenser match? Soap dispenser? How does a faucet match the bar of Ivory soap laying on the drainer?
Then there was the leaking. If you had enough strength to turn the knobs hard enough then you got no leaks. Good news, today, is that all, except the cheapest faucets, can last a lifetime and rarely leak and many come with lifetime replacement guarantees either for parts or sometime even for full replacement of the faucet. I read in a discussion forum, 2 weeks ago, that a customer had called Moen to hopefully get some replacement parts for a faucet that was 17 years old. The customer service person regretted to inform him that the parts for that faucet had long since become unavailable so they were just going to send him a brand new faucet. Take a little time and find a faucet that you like since it's going to be with you for a long time. So we CAN take less time worrying about leaks and more about quality finish, style etc.
Even with this newly found carefree attitude you still need to understand what to look for to get the best product and to understand the function of a faucet so that if and when something does go wrong you can understand and not panic and head for the closest big orange box. A faucet consists of three parts, a valve that controls and directs the flow of water, a handle(s) or knob(s) and a spout. You can choose a faucet that gives you hot and cold water separately or in the single faucet models easily mix the two to give you the optimum temperature. These faucets contain a mixing valve that blends the hot and cold water before it ever reaches your hands.
There are four kinds of valves: compression, cartridge, ball, and ceramic disc. The last three are referred to as "washerless" valves. If you are buying a modern kitchen or bathroom fixture, you'll be buying a faucet with one of these three valves. How come? Because most manufacturers are building washer less valves that are reliable and don't drip. If you are into the look or feel that you need older style/designed kitchen and bathroom faucets, you will find it more difficult because they use compression valves that latter leak over time and have to be replaced. Thes e valves are the oldest technology and the least expensive. Turning the handle raises and lowers a stem. At the base of the stem is a rubber or plastic washer. It usually wears out over time and the faucet will leak. Special tools are needed to effect repairs on these types of faucets an along with the other inherent problems are more the reason to shop for better quality.
Cartridge valves, invented by Moen Faucets, enabled the invention of that single lever faucet I mentioned earlier.The cartridge controls the mixing of water temperatures. Cartridge valves last a long time, but will have to be replaced. How long they last depends on what kinds of materials are used in the cartridge. They may be plastic, plaster and metal, or ceramic which will last a long time.
The ball valve is an innovation of Delta Faucet. It is also used in Peerless and Brizo faucets and works like a cartridge. Current ball valves are stainless steel and nearly indestructible.
Ceramic valves are a European innovation. It's actually two slotted ceramic disks that rest against each other. One rotates to control temperature and raises and lowers to control volume of water. This valve eliminates rubber entirely. The water-tight seal is provided by the disks that are polished to near perfect flatness. Look for these on Price Pfister faucets as well as most European brands such as Grohe, both of which are sold by National Builder Supply. Faucets with ceramic discs are reliable and easy to use. Faucets that use ceramic disc valves are used in mid-range and high-end styles-faucets. If repair is ever needed, the entire ceramic-disc cartridge is replaced. A faucet with a washer less ceramic disk valve cartridge will be drip free. In fact, look for the words 'washer less" on the faucet packaging. How do I decide which to buy? Here are the basic things to consider in a kitchen faucet.
1.Choose your budget. Remember there are wide variables to consider when it comes to cost.. Even if you go for a more expensive European faucet, such as Grohe, my personal favorite (I drive a Mercedes why wouldn’t I want the equivolent in my kitchen?) you'll find many deeply discounted on the through the NBS website. No matter how much you decide to spend, look for the following things in a faucet
A). Ceramic or Metal Cartridge
Look for a ceramic cartridge, ball or disk valve faucet if it is in your budget. If not, look for stainless steel and brass since they also last a long time.
If in doubt about a faucet, go to the manufacturer's web site and find the replacement parts list for your faucet. It will usually tell you the actual materials used in the valve. If not, use the toll-free number and call the manufacturer's customer service department. If you do buy a faucet with a plastic cartridge, go ahead and get the replacement cartridge now — you'll need it eventually.
B). How easily does the faucet operate?
I have found that in my older age some faucets just arent as easy for me to push or pull. The same can apply if you have small children at home.
C).Ease of cleaning
Nooks and crannies are great on English muffins but can make them difficult to clean
D). Say no to Plastic
Look for brass metal construction and avoid plastic on handle. Good faucets feel heavy and very solid. A Grohe sprayer, as an example feels heavy enough to be used as a weapon...LOL
E). Pay careful attention to the finish
Better quality faucets will have a more even finish and in many cases more layers of plating which adds years to the look of your kitchen or bathroom.
D). Guarantee?
What type of promises of warranty or guarantee comes with the fixture, many today do offer some form of “lifetime” guarantee at least for replacement parts.
Still confused? Need help making a decision or need more info? Call the friendly customer service staff at National Builder Supply @ 1-866-746-7469
I try to remind folks that you will never feel pressured to buy from their customer service department because they are not on commission, instead they are paid bonuses based on your satisfaction. If they ask you to participate in a survey on your satisfaction please give them a break and answer the questions or give the company the opportunity to know if you did not get the info you needed or were not satisfied.
Friday, November 28, 2008
TOTO’s Stance on Ecology --- “Turning Waste into Solutions”
TOTO’s products are used by individuals every day. From this alone we see that their environmental impact accumulates day by day, for better or for worse. One of TOTO’s missions is the development of environmentally friendly products that turn waste into solutions. To develop products that afford users the maximum in comfort and convenience every day, while protecting the environment without even realizing it, TOTO instituted the TOTO Eco-Product Certification System in 1998. TOTO develops its products on the basis of strict environmental life cycle assessments (LCAs) that measure CO2 emissions at every product stage, from planning and design to manufacturing, delivery, and use. Products that clear these standards are designated TOTO Eco-Products. In fiscal 2004, 97% of the new products we launched were TOTO Eco-Products. TOTO is committed to maintaining this figure at the high level of 90% or greater.
While providing the ultimate in convenience, users protect the environment without even noticing it.
One of TOTO’s missions is producing environmentally friendly products. Toto is the worldwide innovator in low flush toilets, low use faucets and shower heads and now in electronically controlled kitchen and bathroom faucets. These faucets automatically come own when they sense your hands under the faucet opening and remain on for a fixed amount of time to save water through measured useage and are primarily used in public restrooms and commercial locations but could easily be applied to the kids bathroom in your home or the work sink in your kitchen.
This is a green way to follow when you choose your next future faucet for your home!
Electrical faucets? Isnt there a chance of me being shocked or electrocuted? I thought that sort of thing wasn’t allowed in bathroom and kitchen areas. Have you ever wondered where does the electricity come from that makes your land line or connected phone ring? You may already have figured out that it comes from the telephone company some how. Its actually low voltage power carried on the same line as the phone signal. This power is produced by a power source from the central office that actually carries the voice along the line and is backed up by batteries. Ever had a power failure because of a storm or local event and notice that the phone still works? That’s the battery backup working, so your phone may work for an additional 24 hours on batteries from the phone company, that is if the lines haven’t been damaged in the storm. Toto thought in the same manner for their sensor-equipped faucets that keep your hands clean and are more green than any other faucets, because they simply shut the water off when nothing is under them. So Toto invented a self-powered faucet. Self-powered is a little exaggerated, because this electric faucet’s sensor is powered by the electricity produced by a small turbine, located inside. So, going backwards on the chain of events: the water plant has turbines that make pressure to the water, the pressure (or tension) is passed along the pipes, and at the other end the pressure is transformed into electrical voltage (or tension) that powers the faucet’s electronic sensor and opens/closes the switch. So literally the low voltage power is produced from the original thrust or power from the water pumping station . So like the phone company uses the power that drives the phone signal to the phone to make it ring the inertial power from the water pressure creates the power to drive the faucet. Completely safe, totally green and prevents faucets being on for too long or left on inadvertently.
Now, there’s also a battery in the miracle faucet, that stores the electricity produced by the small turbine. Eco Power replenishes its charge with as few as 5 uses per day, and with as few as 10 uses a day, the backup battery itself is seldom used and can last up to 19 years.
Visit the National Builder Supply website http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/?source=RW886 today to see how you can buy these faucets for 50% of the retail price, or call one of their friendly customer service folks @ 866 746-7469.
While providing the ultimate in convenience, users protect the environment without even noticing it.
One of TOTO’s missions is producing environmentally friendly products. Toto is the worldwide innovator in low flush toilets, low use faucets and shower heads and now in electronically controlled kitchen and bathroom faucets. These faucets automatically come own when they sense your hands under the faucet opening and remain on for a fixed amount of time to save water through measured useage and are primarily used in public restrooms and commercial locations but could easily be applied to the kids bathroom in your home or the work sink in your kitchen.
This is a green way to follow when you choose your next future faucet for your home!
Electrical faucets? Isnt there a chance of me being shocked or electrocuted? I thought that sort of thing wasn’t allowed in bathroom and kitchen areas. Have you ever wondered where does the electricity come from that makes your land line or connected phone ring? You may already have figured out that it comes from the telephone company some how. Its actually low voltage power carried on the same line as the phone signal. This power is produced by a power source from the central office that actually carries the voice along the line and is backed up by batteries. Ever had a power failure because of a storm or local event and notice that the phone still works? That’s the battery backup working, so your phone may work for an additional 24 hours on batteries from the phone company, that is if the lines haven’t been damaged in the storm. Toto thought in the same manner for their sensor-equipped faucets that keep your hands clean and are more green than any other faucets, because they simply shut the water off when nothing is under them. So Toto invented a self-powered faucet. Self-powered is a little exaggerated, because this electric faucet’s sensor is powered by the electricity produced by a small turbine, located inside. So, going backwards on the chain of events: the water plant has turbines that make pressure to the water, the pressure (or tension) is passed along the pipes, and at the other end the pressure is transformed into electrical voltage (or tension) that powers the faucet’s electronic sensor and opens/closes the switch. So literally the low voltage power is produced from the original thrust or power from the water pumping station . So like the phone company uses the power that drives the phone signal to the phone to make it ring the inertial power from the water pressure creates the power to drive the faucet. Completely safe, totally green and prevents faucets being on for too long or left on inadvertently.
Now, there’s also a battery in the miracle faucet, that stores the electricity produced by the small turbine. Eco Power replenishes its charge with as few as 5 uses per day, and with as few as 10 uses a day, the backup battery itself is seldom used and can last up to 19 years.
Visit the National Builder Supply website http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/?source=RW886 today to see how you can buy these faucets for 50% of the retail price, or call one of their friendly customer service folks @ 866 746-7469.
Monday, November 24, 2008
Shopping for a new Faucet? A few things to consider
So the old kitchen or bathroom faucet is about to give up the ghost? Leaking more water when turned off than when on? Handles wobble? Maybe you’re just tired of looking at it and jealous of your neighbor’s newly remodeled kitchen and just want something new? With the economy the way it is today most of is can’t afford new granite countertops and stainless appliances but we can take on a few simple do it yourself projects and give your kitchen or bath a new look. Before you do that you need to make some simple decisions as to what you want as opposed to what to have have. Do you like the function of what you have now? Would you rather go to a single lever? Don’t like the shape, the look, the finish? All of these things are just the starting point.
On a point by point basis let’s look at the decision process:
1. Single lever or two handled? Maybe you’ve always had a two handled faucet in the kitchen and don’t know how much easier it is to fill a pot or work with food by having one hand free. Inversely you have worked for years to make your home have that country look or maybe you live in a 100 year old treasure and the single handled faucets just don’t fit your style. Either way the decision making process begins with that decision. Oddly enough there is a large selection of both old fashioned and extremely contemporary faucets available in both single and double handles. So don’t let that be the arbitrator. Decide what you really like and want. The investment in a good quality faucet can be expensive and should be a long term investment, so know what you want before you buy.
2. Finish or color, bright chrome? Polished nickel? Satin finished nickel? Oil rubbed bronze? Blue, almond, white, black? Yep there are fixtures available in many different colors and finishes. Being the current owner of an almond model I have to tell you that I thought it was the greatest things since grits (yeah Im from Georgia where grits are great) but now with the advent of stainless steel appliances and new counter top colors and materials the almond just looks dirty. Although I have no 6th sense or crystal ball I have the same sense about the “trendy” colors of today. I saw a question on a forum the other day asking “should we match the faucets to the light fixtures or to the door handles and hinges?” Well my answer was which are you likely to change first? The light fixture or the hinges on the door? So In my humble opinion choose a finish you like and will be happy with as long as the door hinges and not a trendy color that will be out of style before you get it installed. Now while each of you is off checking to see what finish your door hinges are, Ill began work on item #3.
3. Shape and style are a big decision. There are hundreds of different styles and shapes. The high arcing faucet used to be just for bar sinks, but now are common place in kitchens and bathrooms because they are easier to use. Easier to fill a pot, easier to get several little hands under to wash, and in my case easier to pile more dirty dishes under them before having to wash them. Contemporary design has taken on the look of something from the “Jetsons” and are truly beautiful. If country is your style there are even faucets now that imitate the look of the old well pump handle that was a permanent fixture in old kitchens. So look online, go to the big box stores, BUT DON’T BUY THERE!!!! Touch feel, turn the knobs, pull the handles and make a basic decision as to what works best for you.
4. In the kitchen, the latest innovation is the pull down sprayer. The sprayer is actually the spout of the fixture as opposed to the separate sprayer mounted on the side. Some people find the new style wonderful others would rather have a sprayer separate from the faucet function. It’s a matter of taste, style and functionality. Again play with them. If you have a neighbor, with a pulldown, go and use hers. If still in doubt go to one of the many forums (I follow over 30 per day myself) and ask the question. If 10 people give you answers you will get 10 totally different opinions so think it over for yourself.
5. Cost is based on several factors, first of course is where you buy it. The best cost will come from National Builder Supply. Why? Because we have a price guarantee backed up with unmatched non-commissioned customer service. The primary cost factor, though, isn’t where you buy it but what is made of, how its made and to great extent where its manufactured. Faucets can be made of brass, plated steel, stainless steel or even plastic. The internal working parts can also have a major effect on cost but also on durability. Plastic washers won’t last as long as brass, so you must research and examine your choice and make sure that you choice is made of quality materials.
6. Now you’ve read all of this, you’ve planned your trip to the big orange store(but didn’t buy), you’ve bugged your neighbors, you have read all 30 of the forums and have made your decision. What do you do next? You go to the NBS website and shop for what you want. Our website link is http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/?source=RW886. If in doubt or to test the customer service call us at (866) 746-7469 and chat about your choices with one of our friendly staff, they get bonuses based on how well they treat you.
7. HAPPY SHOPPING and while you’re on the website or talking to customer service let them help you really dress up your bath or kitchen with a new “Progress “ light fixture. We have over 1700 to choose from.
On a point by point basis let’s look at the decision process:
1. Single lever or two handled? Maybe you’ve always had a two handled faucet in the kitchen and don’t know how much easier it is to fill a pot or work with food by having one hand free. Inversely you have worked for years to make your home have that country look or maybe you live in a 100 year old treasure and the single handled faucets just don’t fit your style. Either way the decision making process begins with that decision. Oddly enough there is a large selection of both old fashioned and extremely contemporary faucets available in both single and double handles. So don’t let that be the arbitrator. Decide what you really like and want. The investment in a good quality faucet can be expensive and should be a long term investment, so know what you want before you buy.
2. Finish or color, bright chrome? Polished nickel? Satin finished nickel? Oil rubbed bronze? Blue, almond, white, black? Yep there are fixtures available in many different colors and finishes. Being the current owner of an almond model I have to tell you that I thought it was the greatest things since grits (yeah Im from Georgia where grits are great) but now with the advent of stainless steel appliances and new counter top colors and materials the almond just looks dirty. Although I have no 6th sense or crystal ball I have the same sense about the “trendy” colors of today. I saw a question on a forum the other day asking “should we match the faucets to the light fixtures or to the door handles and hinges?” Well my answer was which are you likely to change first? The light fixture or the hinges on the door? So In my humble opinion choose a finish you like and will be happy with as long as the door hinges and not a trendy color that will be out of style before you get it installed. Now while each of you is off checking to see what finish your door hinges are, Ill began work on item #3.
3. Shape and style are a big decision. There are hundreds of different styles and shapes. The high arcing faucet used to be just for bar sinks, but now are common place in kitchens and bathrooms because they are easier to use. Easier to fill a pot, easier to get several little hands under to wash, and in my case easier to pile more dirty dishes under them before having to wash them. Contemporary design has taken on the look of something from the “Jetsons” and are truly beautiful. If country is your style there are even faucets now that imitate the look of the old well pump handle that was a permanent fixture in old kitchens. So look online, go to the big box stores, BUT DON’T BUY THERE!!!! Touch feel, turn the knobs, pull the handles and make a basic decision as to what works best for you.
4. In the kitchen, the latest innovation is the pull down sprayer. The sprayer is actually the spout of the fixture as opposed to the separate sprayer mounted on the side. Some people find the new style wonderful others would rather have a sprayer separate from the faucet function. It’s a matter of taste, style and functionality. Again play with them. If you have a neighbor, with a pulldown, go and use hers. If still in doubt go to one of the many forums (I follow over 30 per day myself) and ask the question. If 10 people give you answers you will get 10 totally different opinions so think it over for yourself.
5. Cost is based on several factors, first of course is where you buy it. The best cost will come from National Builder Supply. Why? Because we have a price guarantee backed up with unmatched non-commissioned customer service. The primary cost factor, though, isn’t where you buy it but what is made of, how its made and to great extent where its manufactured. Faucets can be made of brass, plated steel, stainless steel or even plastic. The internal working parts can also have a major effect on cost but also on durability. Plastic washers won’t last as long as brass, so you must research and examine your choice and make sure that you choice is made of quality materials.
6. Now you’ve read all of this, you’ve planned your trip to the big orange store(but didn’t buy), you’ve bugged your neighbors, you have read all 30 of the forums and have made your decision. What do you do next? You go to the NBS website and shop for what you want. Our website link is http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/?source=RW886. If in doubt or to test the customer service call us at (866) 746-7469 and chat about your choices with one of our friendly staff, they get bonuses based on how well they treat you.
7. HAPPY SHOPPING and while you’re on the website or talking to customer service let them help you really dress up your bath or kitchen with a new “Progress “ light fixture. We have over 1700 to choose from.
Friday, November 21, 2008
NATIONAL BUILDER SUPPLY BECOMES PROGRESS LIGHTING DEALER
National Builder Supply and Progress Lighting are pleased to announce that NBS has become the newest distributor of over 1700 lighting fixtures, fans and accessories. According to National Builder Supply Owner, Marcus Morgan,” the Progress line brings NBS into the forefront of suppliers featuring premium plumbing products and now also complimentary lighting products. This provides convenient one stop shopping for either contractors or individuals seeking the best selection and pricing."
The largest single source for residential and commercial lighting. For over 100 years, Progress Lighting has been committed to providing a diverse selection of high quality lighting fixtures - earning us the reputation as the #1 decorative lighting line among Builders and Remodelers. We understand what it takes to be a leader...offering products that deliver aesthetic appeal, stellar performance, easy installation and good value. Progress Lighting also responds to the ever-changing needs of the lighting industry with extensive research and development programs that ensure our high standards of quality and innovation for the home and commercial applications. lighting needs.
Progress Lighting is proud to call home it's state of the art LEED certified corporate headquarters, located in Greenville, SC. Completed in 2006, Progress Lighting's new home is a showcase for lighting, lighting techniques and product testing and development. Progress Lighting is committed to being a leader in the lighting industry.
Progress Lighting is the proud recipient of numerous design and achievement awards including the 2006 Lighting For Tomorrow award and ENERGY STAR partner of the year. Progress Lighting has four distribution centers located throughout the country that support one of the largest networks of electrical distributors and showrooms in the US. All are stocked and ready to serve your immediate residential and commercial lighting needs. National Builder Supply is proud to become one of those distributors featuring Progress products ready to be shipped to you and your project today.
Take time today to visit our new website and check out the wide variety of styles and range of cost as always with out low price guarantee and shipping specials.
http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/?source=RW886
Thursday, November 20, 2008
"NO MORE WIRE COAT HANGERS!!!"
In my continuing preoccupation with DIY forums and chatrooms the second most frequent complaint after the mysterious smell is the clogged toilet. More and more new homes as well as renovated bathrooms are required by local codes to have low water use toilets. These toilets are designed to save water by using less per each flush. There are even toilets on the market today with 2 settings for flushing one for liquid waste the other for solid.
I’m not so sure that the problem is so much the low use units as much as it is we, ourselves, what we are used to that is causing the problem. For us old geezers who may have started out with outhouses, no clogging problem there, but primarily we are used to the old toilets that used up to 10 gallons of water to flush and were wide in their construction so you could flush your old bowling balls, the left over Thanksgiving turkey as well as the most solid of waste materials that your teen age son could produce. Do you who have read my articles before see a pattern developing about the teen age son? I only had boys but I can imagine some of the things the girls could flush also. With this old experience we took it for granted that the toilets could handle massive loads of what ever you needed to eliminate.In modern times the standard toilet actually used about 3.5 gallons of water per flush but the US department of Energy mandated in 1992 that toilets be developed that could flush with as little as 1.6 gallons.
How can we tell if the toilet is clogged? Of course the first sign is that when you flush instead of everthing disappearing neatly down the toilet it pours out on your feet , on the floor and down the hall. Even more subtle signs are that the water level doesn’t return to the proper level after a flush, or the flush is slow and inefficient. You are better off catching the clog at this stage as opposed to the wet feet stage
Needless to say we are still trying to flush the same amount of waste with half the water so we have to adjust our thinking as to how we use these low flush toilets. Although it defeats the purpose of the low flow toilet we can flush more often while using the toilet i.e. flush the solids before using paper, we can be more aware of how much toilet paper we use (primarily that teen age boy), we can use paper that dissolves more rapidly or more easily and last but not least the idea, that has been used in Europe for years, we can invest in toilets such as the TOTO nearest, that actually clean our delicate areas with water instead of using paper at all. There are even “washlets” or toilet seats that can be retrofitted to your existing toilet that provide this same service. Go to the National Builder Supply website for more info in these.
OK so we’ve done all these things and the darn thing is still clogged. How do we most easily unclog it before having to spend the son’s college money or by keeping the local plumber on a retainer. AND NO THE WIRE COAT HANGER IS NOT THE ANSWER. Most the time these things make permanent scratches in the bowl causing debris to build up and making it hard to clean. They are unsanitary and downright dangerous if left around uncleaned. So we try the plunger first. The problem with plungers today is that the bowl is usually oddly shaped an its difficult to get a good suction without making several plunges but can be helped by thoroughly coating the edge of the plumber with petroleum jelly (that’s Vaseline to most of you) allowing the plunger to make better contact with the sides of the bowl, this works for sinks and tub clogs also. If the plunger doesn’t work there are liquids that can be poured into the clog but be aware that if you are on a septic system they can be hazardous to the bacteria in your septic tank that are necessary for its proper action. Also never plunge after the use of one of these liquid products because they contain caustic solutions that can splash out on you and cause some severe burns or harm. The newest product on the market is canned compressed air to blow the clog free, but can you imagine the reverse effect?? Instead of blowing the clog on through the pipes it blows most of it back at you? Be afraid….very afraid and prepared for the clean up.
Lastly is the snake. No not your son’s boa constrictor even though you may have considered flushing it several times allowing it to join all of those many goldfish that have past on in the past. The snake is a cable device with an auger on the working end and a crank on the other that allows you to insert the cable into your toilet piping and turn the auger for several feet down into the plumbing to find and break up the clog. These are also available for rent at most tool rental businesses in an electrical version but honestly should only be used by the pros. If you have made the valiant effort and you haven’t had any success then its time to call in the pros. Sometimes it is a simple clog but many times it may be symptomatic of more serious problems such as roots growing into and through your drain lines or a septic system that is full and needs to be pumped.
I hope this gives you some new perspective on the clog issue and now you know why Joan Crawford was so adamant that the kids had no wire coat hangers…..No not really I think that was something else completely!
I’m not so sure that the problem is so much the low use units as much as it is we, ourselves, what we are used to that is causing the problem. For us old geezers who may have started out with outhouses, no clogging problem there, but primarily we are used to the old toilets that used up to 10 gallons of water to flush and were wide in their construction so you could flush your old bowling balls, the left over Thanksgiving turkey as well as the most solid of waste materials that your teen age son could produce. Do you who have read my articles before see a pattern developing about the teen age son? I only had boys but I can imagine some of the things the girls could flush also. With this old experience we took it for granted that the toilets could handle massive loads of what ever you needed to eliminate.In modern times the standard toilet actually used about 3.5 gallons of water per flush but the US department of Energy mandated in 1992 that toilets be developed that could flush with as little as 1.6 gallons.
How can we tell if the toilet is clogged? Of course the first sign is that when you flush instead of everthing disappearing neatly down the toilet it pours out on your feet , on the floor and down the hall. Even more subtle signs are that the water level doesn’t return to the proper level after a flush, or the flush is slow and inefficient. You are better off catching the clog at this stage as opposed to the wet feet stage
Needless to say we are still trying to flush the same amount of waste with half the water so we have to adjust our thinking as to how we use these low flush toilets. Although it defeats the purpose of the low flow toilet we can flush more often while using the toilet i.e. flush the solids before using paper, we can be more aware of how much toilet paper we use (primarily that teen age boy), we can use paper that dissolves more rapidly or more easily and last but not least the idea, that has been used in Europe for years, we can invest in toilets such as the TOTO nearest, that actually clean our delicate areas with water instead of using paper at all. There are even “washlets” or toilet seats that can be retrofitted to your existing toilet that provide this same service. Go to the National Builder Supply website for more info in these.
OK so we’ve done all these things and the darn thing is still clogged. How do we most easily unclog it before having to spend the son’s college money or by keeping the local plumber on a retainer. AND NO THE WIRE COAT HANGER IS NOT THE ANSWER. Most the time these things make permanent scratches in the bowl causing debris to build up and making it hard to clean. They are unsanitary and downright dangerous if left around uncleaned. So we try the plunger first. The problem with plungers today is that the bowl is usually oddly shaped an its difficult to get a good suction without making several plunges but can be helped by thoroughly coating the edge of the plumber with petroleum jelly (that’s Vaseline to most of you) allowing the plunger to make better contact with the sides of the bowl, this works for sinks and tub clogs also. If the plunger doesn’t work there are liquids that can be poured into the clog but be aware that if you are on a septic system they can be hazardous to the bacteria in your septic tank that are necessary for its proper action. Also never plunge after the use of one of these liquid products because they contain caustic solutions that can splash out on you and cause some severe burns or harm. The newest product on the market is canned compressed air to blow the clog free, but can you imagine the reverse effect?? Instead of blowing the clog on through the pipes it blows most of it back at you? Be afraid….very afraid and prepared for the clean up.
Lastly is the snake. No not your son’s boa constrictor even though you may have considered flushing it several times allowing it to join all of those many goldfish that have past on in the past. The snake is a cable device with an auger on the working end and a crank on the other that allows you to insert the cable into your toilet piping and turn the auger for several feet down into the plumbing to find and break up the clog. These are also available for rent at most tool rental businesses in an electrical version but honestly should only be used by the pros. If you have made the valiant effort and you haven’t had any success then its time to call in the pros. Sometimes it is a simple clog but many times it may be symptomatic of more serious problems such as roots growing into and through your drain lines or a septic system that is full and needs to be pumped.
I hope this gives you some new perspective on the clog issue and now you know why Joan Crawford was so adamant that the kids had no wire coat hangers…..No not really I think that was something else completely!
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Another plumbing nightmare and how to avoid it…
In my previous missive of yesterday, “what is that smell?” I mentioned that the main problem emanated from buying a rural vacation home that was apparently constructed under the most lack of stringent plumbing codes and the apparently no inspection other than the possibility that a local real estate agent passed through and said “it looks great to me, finish up I’ve a sucker on the hook coming to see it this afternoon”. When reading through my daily collection of DIY forums I find a general attitude of complaining about those very points. Why do I have to have a licensed plumber? What is the need for codes and inspections? Why can’t I just short cut this job…I know what I’m doing!!! Well as much as I love to save money and have been known to do some simple things myself I have also learned along the way that there are certain things, especially in plumbing that you must have. One of course as mentioned yesterday is “p”traps, another is drain lines that slope in the proper direction (that’s toward the septic system for those of you in doubt), another whole different story for another day….remind me to tell you about the potato peelings down the garbage disposal on Christmas morning and last but far from least the necessity of shut off valves or stop cock valves in EVERY faucet, toilet, shower, ice maker etc connection in the house. How did I come to this wise conclusion? I found not a single shut off valve on anything in my newly acquired vacation home. “And how did I make this discovery?” you ask. Simple, the ice maker line broke on the back of the refrigerator (directly piped into the main water line under the sink) and while I looked for the main shutoff for the water system, something else the plumber saved money on, we proceeded to flood the entire kitchen, dining room(newly laid pine floors), living room and of course the basement ceiling. The only saving grace was the final thought that because our water source was a well, if we flipped the breaker on the electric pump eventually the water would stop, a thought that did not come quickly by the way.
While we mopped up the mess, ever experienced the urgent need to go to the bathroom when there isn’t one? We sought out a local plumber, WITH A LICENSE. To come and install shut off valves on everything in the house. A time consuming and need I say an expensive proposition on a weekend in a resort community.
The moral or message is…if you haven’t looked under your sinks, behind your toilets, checked to see if you have easy access to the wall behind your shower (other than a fire axe), checked your ice maker etc. Then look and find the main water shut off valve to your house, especially if you live in an area that gets cold enough for pipes to freeze during the winter. Then there is no time like the present to call your local plumber or get your copy of “Plumbing for Dummies” and start installing shut off valves.
Monday, November 17, 2008
WHAT IS THAT SMELL??
As I originally stated when I started this blog, I really wanted to help people with their plumbing problems and what I couldn’t answer, which is probably 95% of what you would ask, my friends at National Builder Supply would help me find the answers. Well ive had the site up for a couple of weeks and you guys are either not finding me or just don’t have any problems? So Ive decided to address some things on my own and see if they strike a chord with any of you.
I am retired and disabled and spend a great amount of time entertaining myself with my laptop computer reading and responding , everyday, on approximately 30 DIY sites and a few that involve Mercedes Benz autos (my passion other than my children and grandchild). With that in mind I want you to know that the most prevalent question that I see DAILY…. Is “ I have a horrible sewer/septic tank smell that comes from the basement, from the kitchen drain, from the laundry room, etc, etc.” Having experienced this very problem myself and first checking my son’s room to make sure that the smell wasn’t coming from him, I called the friendly local plumber. Now on the forums I’ve read there are several answers to the problem. The most prevalent having to do with a full septic tank, a stopped up line to the sewer , or a clogged vent line. But the easiest to fix and yet least expected is a dry “p” trap.
First let me see a show of hands for those of you that know what a “p” trap is and where to find it?? I don’t see many hands! When indoor plumbing was first invented the wise forefathers thought all you had to do was to just run a pipe from the sink, commode, shower, etc straight to the septic tank, cesspool or whatever. They never even thought of the fact that sewage from the home begins to break down from bacteria (a good thing by the way) and those little bacteria give off methane gas. This gas can do a lot of things more offensive than just smelling bad. It can explode if dad sneaks into the bathroom to smoke, it can suffocate the whole household and both did happen with some frequency. This called for some way to stop the gas from coming back into the house. Thankfully and early genius, whose name escapes me, came up with a simple fix…the “p” trap, simply an elbow in the plumbing line(see the pic above) that stays filled with water and keeps the gas from coming back into the house. They also keep Mom’s diamond ring from falling straight down and into the sewer when she drops it in the sink ( a function not originally thought of). If you look under your kitchen or bathroom sink you will see this elbow just below the pipe connection to the drain. There are similar devices built into toilets (more the shape of an “S”), built into walls for plumbing lines like a washing machine drain or other drain lines. If this trap becomes empty then the methane gas backs up into the house and thus the smell and danger.
How does the “p” trap lose its water? Evaporation from a lack of use of a drain, i.e. the spare bathroom that no one ever uses, an over active dehumidifierin the central a/c system(very prevalent in humid states), a washer drain line and you have no washing machine or even something as simple as an old trap that has rusted out in the bottom and so no water can collect, instead you get a small leak and then comes the smell. Where’s that coming from? Somebody use that fancy air freshener I bought for the Bathroom PLEASE!!!.
Now I have seen some other answers for the smell. Even one where the pipes to the septic tank clogged up and backed up against the underground outside wall of the basement and the gas seeped through the concrete block, but that one was rare. My own experience came from buying a vacation home in a rural mountain area with little or no plumbing code and inspections. We soon started smelling a foul odor from the basement and being the plumbing genius I am I thought OK we haven’t installed a washer so the “p” trap for the drain doesn’t have any water in it. Simple fix, pour some water into the drain until we start using a washer. Still had the smell. Now here is where the part about the drain being in the wall and the no code plumbing come into play. To get to the drain line you have to tear out the wall. Was the smell bad enough to make me want to tear out sheetrock and have to replace the whole wall, retape and try to match the paint? Darn right it was . When the wall was torn out and the drain was exposed we found that our mountain no-code, no inspection plumber had just run a straight line from the washer drain pipe out of the house and to the septic tank with no trap. So then we not only had the expense of replacing the wall board, etc we had to figure out how to install a “p” into a wall with little or no room. Too long a story and too much money to even go any further, just know that there can be many issues causing the smell some real simple and others complicated enough to buy a lot of air fresheners and list the house for sale quick.
HOPE THIS HAS INFORMED AND ENTERTAINED YOU. I WOULD LOVE TO HEAR YOUR STORYS. GIVE ME A COMMENT AND SHARE IT WITH ME AND OUR OTHER SHY READERS. WAIT UNTIL I GIVE YOU THE NEXT INSTALLMENT OF PLUMBING PROBLEMS IN THIS SAME HOUSE. YOU WILL FIRMLY BELIEVE IN CODE ENFORCEMENT AND ALWAYS USING LICENSED PROFESSIONALS.
Friday, November 14, 2008
Handicap toilets...NOT IN THE CLOSET ANYMORE
Handicap toilets or ADA toilets refer to the toilets made complying with the guidelines as laid out in the Americans Disabilities Act. There are two configuration of toilet designs in the world that are considered standard. The one is small and called round and the other is large, known as elongated but height is the main of difference and if you have never used one or more importantly been in a physical condition where you needed assistance in sitting on or standing up from the toilet.
Most toilets range from 14 to 16 inches high (floor to seat height) with some of the new contemporary designs being even lower. The ADA required height for toilets is between 16.5 and 18 inches and here in lies the gist of my reasoning for this article. Until you are in need of assistance because of a disability or a temporary infirmity you will never realize how important that extra 2” is in both safety but comfort. I have mentioned briefly before here on this blog that I am retired and disabled due to Parkinsons. I, frankly went through life ignoring the blue Handicap signs on parking spaces other than jealousy and paid no attention at all to the fact that there were bathroom stalls specifically labeled for the handicapped and certainly had paid no attention to what amenities they afforded. NOW I GET IT!!! I have to have a handicap parking permit to be able to do even the simplest shopping or to be mobile because walking more than a few feet unassisted is difficult and sometimes makes the difference as to whether I can be independent or have to depend on someone else. Taking care of the “call of nature” is just as difficult with out a higher toilet and some form of grab bars for assistance and again and more importantly means to me INDEPENDENCE or one less thing I have to depend on someone else for.
Why begin this discussion today? Because I just had to move from living with one of my children and having someone around to help if I needed it , to a small place where I could live alone for the last of my days with some freedom and low and behold my simple little bathroom has the most wonderful feature that I have experienced in a private home….a ADA HEIGHT TOILET! Foe 60 years I never paid a moments notice to toilet height nor did any of my friends or family if it can be judged by all of the discussion this one has caused. Even my youngest hale and hearty visitors have not only noticed it but you would think I had just gotten indoor plumbing!
In summation you don’t have to be disabled to have need for or simply enjoy having a toilet at a more comfortable and convenient height. These toilets are commonly available and do not bear an unreasonable cost escalation over a normal toilet and even “high style/premium” brands such as TOTO offer versions to satisfy your esthetic need for style.
To find out how simply you can upgrade your own home and have this important option before your perceived ”need” for it, contact one of the friendly customer service reps at National Builder Supply at 866 746 7469 or check out our website
http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/?source=RW886
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Supply house or Box store is there a product difference?
I read some 25 different DIY forums per day sometimes 3 or 4 times a day to keep up with whats happening and to try to help folks with answers if I know them or can find the answers.
One of the most frequent questions Ive seen of late is "is there really a quality difference between a name brand faucet bought at a big box store and the same item bought at a commercial plumbing supply house".
The answer to this question can be a complicated issue but when you break it down to simple economics the only way for the pricing to be different between the 2 vendors other than volume purchasing, is the product does have to be diffferent and they differ in 2 major ways. With faucets as an example its estimated that in more than 90% of the boxed faucet sets sold at the big box stores do not have all of the hardware included to propely install the faucet, primarily the washers and nuts that are used to bolt the faucet in are excluded. The other large factor is the pop-up closures for the sink in the box store units are plastic and flimsy where the product from a professional supply house are solid brass.
Ultimately the final answer is you get what you pay for. If you want inexpensive and want to make multilple trips to get what you need from the box store then buy there. If you want value and everything you need in one package use a good supply house.
The folks at National Builder Supply make sure that you have everything you need to install your faucet all in one package and have customer service staff on hand to lend advice on installation if you get it home and have problems.
One of the most frequent questions Ive seen of late is "is there really a quality difference between a name brand faucet bought at a big box store and the same item bought at a commercial plumbing supply house".
The answer to this question can be a complicated issue but when you break it down to simple economics the only way for the pricing to be different between the 2 vendors other than volume purchasing, is the product does have to be diffferent and they differ in 2 major ways. With faucets as an example its estimated that in more than 90% of the boxed faucet sets sold at the big box stores do not have all of the hardware included to propely install the faucet, primarily the washers and nuts that are used to bolt the faucet in are excluded. The other large factor is the pop-up closures for the sink in the box store units are plastic and flimsy where the product from a professional supply house are solid brass.
Ultimately the final answer is you get what you pay for. If you want inexpensive and want to make multilple trips to get what you need from the box store then buy there. If you want value and everything you need in one package use a good supply house.
The folks at National Builder Supply make sure that you have everything you need to install your faucet all in one package and have customer service staff on hand to lend advice on installation if you get it home and have problems.
Friday, November 7, 2008
JOIN THE GREEN REVOLUTION IN PLUMBING
MORE AND MORE PEOPLE TODAY ARE AWARE OF THE IMPACT WE ALL HAVE ON OUR EARTH'S RESOURCES. RECENTLY IN THE ATLANTA AREA THE WATER CRISIS HAS COME TO BEAR WITH WATER RATIONING NOT ONLY AFFECTING EVERY FAMILY BUT CAUSING MANY WATER SENSITIVE BUSINESSES TO FAIL. NOW MORE THAN EVER WE ALL MUST TO EVERYTHING WE CAN TO REDUCE OUR FOOTPRINT ON EARTH WHETHER ITS SAVING FUEL, AIR OR WATER RESOURCES EVERYONE CAN PLAY A PART.
NATIONAL BUILDER SUPPLY FEATURES THE GROHE WATERCARE FAUCETS AND SHOWER SYSTEMS AS WELL AS MANY OTHER PRODUCTS SUCH AS 'DELTA DIAMOND SEAL(tm)TECHNOLOGY TO ASSIST YOU ON LOWERING YOUR FOOTPRINT.
THE GROHE WATERCARE SYSTEMS CAN LOWER YOUR FOOTPRINT BY AS MUCH AS 30% RELATIVE TO WATER USAGE.
CONTACT ONE OF THEIR FREINDLY CUSTOMER SERVICE REPS TODAY AT 866-746-7469 OR GO THE BEAUTIFUL NEW NATIONAL BUILDER SUPPLY WEBSITE AT: nationalbuildersupply.com
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
TAKE A LOOK AT THE BEST TOILET IN AMERICA
THE GUYS AT National Builder Supply ARE KNOWN FOR THEIR PREMIUM PRODUCT LINES INCLUDING TOTO AND GROHE THE TWO PREMIER NAMES IN PLUMBING FIXTURES TODAY.
I THOUGHT YOU MIGHT BE INTERESTED IN SEEING WHAT A TRULY ELEGANT TOILET IS LIKE
Go to the NBS website for pictures and further info:
nationalbuildersupply.com
Toto Neorest Elongated 1 Piece Toilet MS990CGR Cotton White, Colonial White or Sedona Beige
Manufacturer SKU: MS990CGR#01 This item is part of the (Neorest) Series
MSRP:
$5,200.00 !! see the NBS website for how much you can save plus free freight.
Product Information
MS990CGR
Cyclone Flushing System Can Be Operated By Remote Or By Sensor Operation
Front And Rear Warm Water Washing With Temperature And Intermittent Pressure Controls
Automatic Toilet Seat Can Be Opened/Closed By Remote Or By Sensor Operation
Heated Seat With Temperature Control
Air Deodorizer
Dryer Function
Remote Control Operation
Specifications
Bowl Shaped Elongated Configuration
1 Piece
Rough-In Length 12 "
Gallons Per Flush (GPF) 1.6
Lever Placement Electronic
Includes Seat
Thursday, October 23, 2008
welcome to my Blog
The purpose of this forum is to help the average Do-it-yourselfer to get the most for his money during these trying economic times and to help with small everyday questions as you progress through your project. I have over 30 years experience at my own home improvement projects some done by myself and others by contracting them out. I don't claim them all to be a success!
Additionally I am associated (not employed by) with a good friend who owns a major internet supply house providing mostly high end plumbing fixtures and soon to have online light fixtures and many other associated products. Thats where the National Builder Supply comes from.
I welcome you to leave comments, ask questions and I will try to provide answers or sources to get you the answers and to visit the NBS website http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/?source=RW886
Additionally I am associated (not employed by) with a good friend who owns a major internet supply house providing mostly high end plumbing fixtures and soon to have online light fixtures and many other associated products. Thats where the National Builder Supply comes from.
I welcome you to leave comments, ask questions and I will try to provide answers or sources to get you the answers and to visit the NBS website http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/?source=RW886
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