MY OUTDATED BATHROOM CONTEST...WIN $2000

It’s your bathroom. If you’re like the rest of us, it’s where you spend more than 30 minutes per day. On a busy day, you may not find time to recline in the living room or even catch a meal at the kitchen table, but try as you might you will experience 30 minutes with your toilet.
How is your experience?
Welcome to National Builder Supply’s My Outdated Bathroom Experience. We’re providing a $2,000 bathroom upgrade to the individual who can portray the most compelling view into their outdated bathroom experience. Here is what we suggest: You’ve got 30 minutes today, why not take a look around? Soak it all in. Then tell us about it. Have fun with it and tell your friends because some of those 30 minutes is spent in their outdated bathroom. After all, 30 minutes a day becomes 8 days a year! Share your experience for the chance to upgrade your bathroom today.

Prize: $2,000 Bathroom Upgrade!

Prize Eligibility : This contest is open to people at least 13 years old that
reside in United States.
Contest Starts : July 22, 2009 at 11:32 am (PDT)
Contest Ends : September 30, 2009 at 11:59 am (PDT)

Official Rules :
Each entry needs to include at least one photograph with some commentary
Individuals can vote on each submission once throughout the contest
Bathroom photos need to be legitimate (your bathroom) and in good taste (not in use ;)
The entry with the most thumbs-up votes at the end of the contest period will win
The sponsors reserve the right to bar any entry deemed inappropriate or fraudulent
Thanks for sticking to the rules!

CRASH FOR CLUNKERS?

In my continuing concern for the environment and "green" solutions for our basic needs I greeted with much interest and on this past Monday blogged about the much anticipated “Cash for Clunkers” program giving you some details and some websites to go to for further info. Well apparently it has been such a success that after only 6 days in operation it is either cancelled or on life support depending in which un-named source you care to believe. This morning the AP is reporting that the White House was assessing its options amid concerns the $1 billion budget for rebates for new car sales may have been depleted. Transportation Department officials called lawmakers earlier Thursday to alert them of plans to suspend the program as early as Friday. White House official said later the program had not been suspended and they were reviewing their options to keep the program funded and was working to assess the situation facing what is obviously an incredibly popular program. Originally the program was scheduled to last through Nov. 1 or until the money ran out. As of Wednesday the AP reported that 22,782 vehicles had been purchased through the program and nearly $96 million had been spent. But dealers raised concerns about large backlogs in the processing of the deals in the government system. A survey of 2,000 dealers by the National Automobile Dealers Association found about 25,000 deals had not yet been approved by the government, or nearly 13 trades per store. It suggested that with about 23,000 dealers taking part in the program, car dealers may already have surpassed the 250,000 vehicle sales funded by the $1 billion program.

The news programs have been rife with reports from dealerships of the vast success of the program with many dealers testifying, on camera, of their inability to keep up with the traffic in their showrooms and equally stating that even though they had originally thought that the program would be a bust instead it has been a boon to the car business which has been on the ropes for some months now and as we all know the government has had to step in to rescue both Chrysler and General Motors. An east coast Florida dealer reported selling 50+ Toyotas since Monday where he hadn’t sold 50 cars total in the last 3 months. Additionally there have been reports of confusion both from the dealers, buyers and the Government office in charge of the program with arbitrary changes to old EPA ratings on older model cars being changed after deals have been made. In this case dealers are demanding that the buyer either pay the $4500 or bring the car back.
I’m sorry to say if your plans were to race out this week end and trade the old buggy in on something new and economical you may have waited too long but watch the news and check with your local dealers for updates. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MAKE A DEAL AND DRIVE OFF WITH THE NEW CAR UNTIL YOU KNOW AND HAVE CERTIFICATION THAT YOUR DEAL HAS BEEN APPROVED BY THE TRANSPORTATION DEPT. There are desperate dealers out there that could easily mislead you to believe that your deal is done and then in a few days call you back with a demand for more money.
I will also try to give you any updates that I run across and will post them here and on our Twitter site @NBSUPPLY.

Vacation Prep...Do I turn the water off?

This may come a little late in the vacation season but well worth discussing anytime of the year. The question was asked, the other day, on one of the threads I watch, “should I shut my water off in the house when on vacation?” The answer is positively yes. You never know what can happen when you're away and how much damage can be done by out of control water in your home. I call to mind friends who, several years ago, left their home for an extended vacation and while gone a shut off valve on one of their plumbing fixtures failed and started water flowing all over their single story ranch home (a very expensive home by the way). I do not remember how many thousands of gallons they were billed for but the damage was incredible. Not only was their carpeting soaked but the hardwood floors buckled and popped off the floor, kitchen cabinets were ruined, the sheet rock soaked water half way up all of the walls, clothes wicked water up into the closets, the appliances were ruined, all of the electrical outlets had to be replaced, much of their beautiful wooded furniture was ruined and any upholstered furniture that was in contact with the floor was ruined. I was absolutely dumbfounded by the damage. The home was almost considered by the insurance company to be a total loss and everything in it was totaled. What would cause a valve like that to fail? It can be many things, too much water pressure from the meter over a long period of time can cause valves to fail, a sudden burst of pressure can cause it, and face it some shut off valves just get old corroded and fail. Other things that can happen are the hot water heater can go critical and the T&P valve can blow off or worse yet not blow, pipe joints can fail over years, toilets can be stuck and overflow, cold weather can cause freezing of pipes, even an unknown crack caused in a previous winter that has had just a small indiscernable leak can suddenly burst and cause vast damage. The list can go on and on including vandalism when a home has been broken into and the vandals turn the water on…think “Home Alone”..lol.
The bottom line is if you’re going to be away for more than a brief period of time it doesn’t hurt to turn the water off at the main shut off or at the street (if you have the tool). Additionally anytime you are going to impede the water flow especially hot water, shut the circuit breaker or gas line off to your hot water heater because you can do permanent damage to a hot water heater that has no water in it. You should also refer to an earlier blog I wrote about how to winterize your home to get details on how to properly drain a house for cold weather.

CASH FOR CLUNKERS

Today’s blog is going to veer from the DIY realm somewhat but nonetheless is a subject close to my heart and something that I continue to address every chance I get. I am a car fanatic without the means to pursue that fanatasism and more so I am involved in and a strong proponent of “green” topics and initiatives. Being an ex-accountant and by nature and education an economist I am also very concerned with the state of the economy, today, both here in the US and in the World. With all of these issues in mind I wanted to put some information into the flow about the US “Cash for Clunkers” program. Here from the official US Government website are the particulars of the program in a nut shell and applicable links for further info. I urge everyone to look into this opportunity to both take a gas guzzler off the road, to better our economy by increasing demand for the auto industry and to beautify your driveway with a new car. I had to get a DIY purpose in there somewhere.LOL

The CAR Allowance Rebate System (CARS) is a $1 billion government program that helps consumers buy or lease a more environmentally-friendly vehicle from a participating dealer when they trade in a less fuel-efficient car or truck. The program is designed to energize the economy; boost auto sales and put safer, cleaner and more fuel-efficient vehicles on the nation's roadways.
§ Your vehicle must be less than 25 years old on the trade-in date
§ Only purchase or lease of new vehicles qualify
§ Generally, trade-in vehicles must get 18 or less MPG (some very large pick-up trucks and cargo vans have different requirements)
§ Trade-in vehicles must be registered and insured continuously for the full year preceding the trade-in
§ You don't need a voucher, dealers will apply a credit at purchase
§ Program runs through Nov 1, 2009 or when the funds are exhausted, whichever comes first.
§ The program requires the scrapping of your eligible trade-in vehicle, and that the dealer disclose to you an estimate of the scrap value of your trade-in. The scrap value, however minimal, will be in addition to the rebate, and not in place of the rebate.
Consumers will be able to take advantage of this program and receive a $3,500 or $4,500 discount from the car dealer when they trade in their old vehicle and purchase or lease a new one. Consumers you do not need to register anywhere or at anytime for this program. However, to find out eligibility requirements click here.
What is NHTSA doing to guard against fraud? Click here for more information. Allegations of fraud may be reported by calling our toll-free 24-hour hotline at 1-800-424-9071
§ Qualified consumers may participate in the CARS Program between July 1, 2009 and November 30, 2009 on authorized funds are no longer available.
§ Qualified consumers will receive a credit of $3,500 or $4,500 for an eligible trade-in toward the purchase of lease of an approved vehicle under CARS Program.
§ Qualified consumers will receive the $3,500 or $4,500 credit at the time the purchase their new vehicle.
§ Dealers must provide consumers with any other advertised rebates or discounts in addition to the credit they receive through the CARS Program.
§ Consumers should expect to conduct their deals at their dealership of choice, not on the Internet.
§ Consumers should expect the dealers to provide their best estimate of the scrap value for their eligible trade-in vehicle. Dealers are allowed to deduct $50 from this value for their administrative costs.
§ Consumers should expect that all information collected through the CARS Program will be kept confidential. Social Security members are not required for a CARS transaction.
For further info consult the links above or get out to an authorized new car dealer, kick some tires and see what the program can do for you

Should you buy a $400 faucet?

I answered a thread on GardenWeb/bathrooms the other day where a writer was asking for opinions or permission to pay $400 for a Grohe faucet she was in love with. As I have written in past blogs faucets can be a very personal purchase and involve a lot of emotions. After all a housewife may spend more time with her kitchen faucet than any other item in her day to day life, including her husband. With this thought in mind it should be pleasant to the sight, comfortable in the hand and certainly should be reliable, sort of like her husband. So would you scrimp on money or less be careful on choosing the spouse or maybe the solution is a spouse with money?? LOL. Well maybe that’s a bad analogy but does point out that a faucet can be an important purchase and money may not always be the determining factor. Long term quality is important to me, whereas another writer stated that he wasn’t going to buy an expensive faucet because they were easily replaced and he figured he could spend $100 instead of $400 on a faucet any time over 1 year of service was profit to him. His opinion was that faucets are easy to replace. I wonder how long it takes him to get around to replacing it? How angry does his spouse have to get to have him do it? How do they get by when the faucet falls apart in the middle of Thanksgiving dinner and his local big box store is closed? I answered the thread that I felt there was no replacement for quality. I drive a Mercedes, all be it a very old Mercedes, but it is still a quality automobile and even after 20 years when I get in it to go somewhere it fires right up and takes me down the road and safety and never ceases to make me feel good driving it. Could I have bought a car that would have given me good service? Maybe but would I have loved it all these years? Probably not. So should the lady buy her $400 faucet because she loves it? I say absolutely.

What is Kerdi?

As I venture forth day to day reading and commenting on forums and discussion groups another phrase that I see come up often is “Kerdi”. After doing a little research I find that Kerdi is the name brand of a series of components used to install shower stalls and to insure their water tightness. The following is cited from an article by Schluter-Kerdi, the manufacturer of this system, and included in today’s blog with my thanks for using it and giving them full credit for the information herewith. To read the article in full and to get further information on and questions answered about the system refer to http://www.schluter.com/3783.aspx

“The hygienic and maintenance-free characteristics of finished tiled coverings account for the prevalence of this ideal surface in bathroom and, specifically, shower applications. However, because the integrity of the tiled surface relies upon a system of water management to protect the sub-shower assembly from moisture penetration, tiled showers have always represented a considerable challenge for installers.The traditional method of installing a shower receptor has some obvious drawbacks. Typically, an installer must place a mortar bed, sloped to the weep holes in the sub-drain, prior to installing the pan liner. Once this "pre-slope" has cured to the point where it can be walked upon, the pan liner is installed - with its tenuous connections to the clamping ring in the sub-drain, seaming, and carefully fitted corners around the curb area, all of which must be bonded with the appropriate solvent-based bonding agent. Each of these steps must be completed, and the weep holes protected from being clogged with mortar, before the shower pan is ready to receive the setting bed for the floor tiles. This conventional methodology requires substantial time and labor. However, since shower pan liners are placed below the mortar setting bed in a conventional assembly, receptors successfully constructed in this manner allow moisture to saturate the mortar bed. This can increase the risk of leakage, cause efflorescence, lead to deterioration of the mortar bed itself, and foster bacteria and fungus growth.
The industry responded to this situation by developing bonded waterproof membranes, which bond directly to the mortar bed and protect it from becoming saturated. In 1987, Schluter-Systems supplied the industry with an effective seaming and waterproofing solution, SCHLUTER-KERDI. KERDI is the most user-friendly, sheet-applied waterproofing membrane in existence. Because it is so thin and lightweight, it hangs as easily as wallpaper. “

As with all the blogs I write I hope this one will help you to understand this to be one of many solutions for your DIY project and will give you a starting point for research to lead you to your best alternatives

What about Tankless Hot Water Heaters?

I see questions and comments about tankless water heaters on the forums I follow almost on a daily basis. It is a new technology that I have no experience with and because it is ill advised that they be installed by the layman DIY’r my friends at National Builder Supply have chosen not to sell them. But when has my not knowing about something kept me from finding out information and passing it on? Much of the following info comes from the website, http://www.tanklesswaterheaterguide.com/ to whom I give the credit and thanks for the use of their info.
So let’s start from the beginning and answer the basic questions. More thorough answers and diagrams are available on the above website.
What is a Tankless Water Heater? also called Instantaneous or Demand Water Heaters, provide hot water only as it is needed. Traditional storage water heaters produce standby energy losses that cost you money. We only heat our homes when there is a demand for heat. In the same way, a Tankless Water Heater is used only when there is a demand for hot water.
How do Tankless Water Heaters work? Tankless water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. Therefore, they avoid the standby heat losses associated with storage water heaters. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. In an electric Tankless Water Heater an electric element heats the water. In a gas-fired Tankless Water Heater a gas burner heats the water. As a result, Tankless Water Heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don't need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water. Typically, gas-fired Tankless Water Heaters will produce higher flow rates than electric Tankless Water Heaters. Some smaller Tankless Water Heaters, however, cannot supply enough hot water for simultaneous, multiple uses in large households. For example, taking a shower and running the dishwasher at the same time. To overcome this problem, you can install a “whole house” type Tankless Water Heater or install two or more Tankless Water Heaters, connected in parallel for simultaneous demands of hot water. You can also install separate Tankless Water Heaters for appliances—such as a clothes washer or dishwater—that use a lot of hot water in your home. Other applications for Tankless Water Heaters include the following a remote BBQ, outdoor sinks, pool house or pool shower, remote bathrooms or hot tubs. ATankless heater may also be used to serve as a booster, eliminating long pipe runs, for solar water heating systems, dishwashers and sanitation.
For homes that use 41 gallons or less of hot water daily, Tankless Water Heaters can be 24% – 34% more energy efficient than conventional storage tank water heaters. They can be 8% – 14% more energy efficient for homes that use a lot of hot water, around 86 gallons per day. You can achieve an even greater energy savings of 27% – 50% if you install a Tankless Water Heater at each hot water outlet.
Selecting a Tankless Water Heater: Before buying a tankless water heater, consider the following:
1.Fuel Type:(Electric or gas)
2.Location, size and demand
3.Application

1.Fuel Type: If you choose electric you must ensure that you have a circuit or circuits that will support your Electric Tankless Water Heater. It may be necessary to put your Electric Tankless Water Heater on its own circuit or circuits. You should consult with a qualified, licensed electrician for more information.
If you plan to purchase a Gas-Fired Tankless Water Heater, consider the gas-type and venting requirements: You will first need to identify whether your gas type is Natural Gas or Propane. It is imperative that you examine your current gas line to ensure that it will meet the requirements of your new Gas-Fired Tankless Water Heater. The requirements of the Tankless Water Heater may exceed that of your existing tank-style water heater.
Next, you will need to consider venting requirements for your specific installation scenario. There are a few important things to keep in mind when purchasing the gas venting accessories for your Gas-Fired Tankless Water Heater. Be sure that you purchase Category III stainless steel (UL1738 certified) venting for your Gas-Fired Tankless Water Heater. "Type B" venting accessories are not acceptable. Also, be sure to check local building code to ensure that your specific needs will be completely met.
Additionally, many Tankless Water Heater manufacturers offer gas venting "kits". It is recommended that customers evaluate the needs of their specific installation to ensure that they will be getting all of the necessary gas venting accessories. Depending on where you will be installing the Tankless Water Heater, a pre-made kit will probably not meet your needs. Ensure that you measure out the vent route and consider where the discharge will go through the wall or ceiling, consider the necessary clearances, and consider ample access to air for combustion, then buy the appropriate gas venting pieces.
Note: Gas-Fired Tankless Water Heaters may still require a minimal electrical connection. Be sure to review installation requirements for the units you are considering for purchase.
2. Location, Size, and Demand: When deciding which Tankless Water Heater to purchase, you will also need to consider where you will need hot water. Are you looking for a unit that will heat the water at one bathroom sink (single point application), an entire bathroom (multipoint application), or an entire house, apartment, or condo (whole house application)? It is important to recognize the number of fixtures that will require hot water. Each fixture will have its own demands. The flow rate is especially important, since Tankless Water Heaters will generate a temperature rise based on the flow rate demanded. Next, you should look at your ambient incoming water temperature. If you live in a cold climate, like New York, your incoming water temperature will likely be much lower than if you live in a warm climate, like Florida.
3.Tankless Water Heater Installation and Maintenance: Proper installation and maintenance of your water heater can optimize its energy efficiency. Proper installation depends on many factors. These factors include climate and local building code requirements. You should have a qualified, licensed plumbing and heating contractor install your Tankless Water Heater.
I hope this helps to give you an overview of tankless water heaters. This blog should not be considered, alone, as the final information that you need to make a decision about the use of a tankless water heater for your home. The ultimate guide should be a licensed professional.

Does Your faucet Have a Lifetime Warranty?

I see many inquiries and discussions, on the many forums I follow, about leaking faucets. As you read these discussions you begin to see that there is not always one simple answer as to why a faucet leaks. In the old days when faucets were simple it was just a bad washer or something that had loosened that could have just been tightened. With today’s complicated faucet systems it can be a buildup of sand stuck in a valve or too much water pressure over a long term which can cause that valve to fail. With the new style single handled faucets the valve and its components are the heart of the mechanism and if it fails you can experience anything from a leak to complete failure to be able to control the faucet. The obvious long term durability of any faucet can come from its components and the materials they are made of. The best fixtures are brass and ceramic but there are products that are mostly plastic. The better quality fixtures are both more easily repaired as well as being worth repairing where you might find a less expensive fixture easier to cast aside in favor of a new one of similar value or the experience may have taught you that you would be better served to buy a more expensive faucet that will provide better life expectancy. Along with the better fixtures also comes a better warranty with most of the more expensive products on the market today offering “lifetime warranties” of parts and finishes. The most prominent of these product lines is Moen. As best I can tell Moen began this warranty program guaranteeing their faucets for the life of the original owner covering products manufactured back to 1995 but I am aware that they hace extended this coverage to faucet much older. The following is the exact language of Moen’s warranty from their website:
“Moen® products have been manufactured under the highest standards of quality and workmanship. Moen warrants to the original consumer purchaser for as long as the original consumer purchaser owns their home (the "Warranty Period" for homeowners), that this faucet will be leak and drip free during normal use and all parts and finishes of this faucet will be free from defects in material and manufacturing workmanship. All other purchasers (including purchasers for industrial, commercial and business use) are warranted for a period of 5 years from the original date of purchase (the "Warranty Period" for non-homeowners). If this faucet should ever develop a leak or drip during the Warranty Period, Moen will FREE OF CHARGE provide the parts necessary to put the faucet back in good working condition and will replace FREE OF CHARGE any part or finish that proves defective in material and manufacturing workmanship, under normal installation, use and service. Replacement parts may be obtained by calling 1-800-289-6636 (Canada 1-800-465-6130). Proof of purchase (original sales receipt) from the original consumer purchaser must accompany all warranty claims. Defects or damage caused by the use of other than genuine Moen parts is not covered by this warranty. This warranty is applicable only to faucets purchased after December, 1995 and shall be effective from the date of purchase as shown on purchaser's receipt.”

Additionally I can tell you that I am aware of many occasions when Moen has simply sent the customer a complete new faucet when either parts were no longer available or when they deemed the faucet not repairable. I can also tell you that I have shared this info with many Moen owners who were unaware of the warranty as well as owners of several other major product lines that have chosen to match this warranty.
The bottom line, before you tear apart a leaky faucet or pitch it in the trash and buy a new one determine the manufacturer and explore their warranty you may certainly be able to save yourself at least the cost and search for parts but may also gain an entirely new fixture.
National Builder Supply is a proud Moen dealer as well as the Moen premium “Show House” brand as well as many other quality brands.

What are the Effects of Hard Water and How do I Fix it?

With the popularity of my 3 blogs on “What’s That Smell?” one of the issues has been what to do about hard water situations. This is a subject that , I personally, have never had to deal with and admit that my knowledge is limited. Last week I wrote that I had started playing around with “Twitter” and while I find it to be mostly full of spam and get rich quick schemes, I have managed to establish some new friendships with folks in various elements of the home improvement business that I am not well versed in. One of these friendships and cooperative efforts comes from Ian Adams at Crawford Supply. They own a division called Charger Water and deal in several home based water treatment systems. In reading the material Ian sent me the one that intrigued me the most and seemed to fit the scenarios that I have been running across lately was one called the “Iron Breaker”(AS PICTURED LEFT). From this material here is a brief explanation of what hard water does to your home and appliances and how a water softener system such as the “Iron Breaker” works.
Hard water causes unwanted mineral buildup in appliances, on glasses and silverware, and stains shower curtains and doors. It also robs much of the cleaning power of expensive soaps and detergents. A water softener system reduces the minerals that cause rust stains, damaging build-up, unnecessary money spent on cleaners and are the simplest and most dependable. Conditioned water means a softer Iife style and all of your water using appliances will lead longer lives. Dishwashers, automatic clothes washers and, of course, your water heater will benefit from reduced scale buildup. Adding years of life to major appliances and postponing expensive replacements. Your home's plumbing system is vulnerable to mineral scale accumulation inside the pipes. As hard water build up closes the pipes, water flow is restricted reducing water pressure. Soft water prevents scale buildup, preserves water pressure and helps prevent serious plumbing problems and unnecessary repairs.
How does it work? Hard water passes through the media tank containing resin beads coated with sodium ions. The calcium and magnesium ions are exchanged for sodium (or potassium) ions, thus softening the water. When the beads have trapped the hardness and need to be incinerated the system’s meter-driven valve recharges them with brine from the brine tank Regeneration occurs automatically at metered intervals. Calcium and magnesium ( hardness ions) are freed from the beads and replaced with sodium or potassium ions and the system is ready to soften water, agaln.
The Crawford Group of Companies, like National Builder Supply, are a family owned company based out of Morton Grove, Illinois. They have been in business for over 30 years. They touch all facets of water – kitchens (water and cabinets), baths, and even radiant heating systems. The Crawford Group of Companies provides solutions for plumbing, heating and kitchen cabinets. They are strategically located in Illinois, Wisconsin, Michigan, Ohio and Pennsylvania, a distribution network that proudly serves the Great Lakes Region. The Crawford Group is made up of Inland Supply, KDA of Wisconsin, Builders Plumbing Supply, Builders Heating Supply, Plumbers Equipment Company, Crawford Supply and Charger Water, the division that deals with water softener products such as the one discussed today. http://www.chargerwater.com/ for further info and many thanks to Ian Adams for helping me today.

Whats the Definition of High Efficiency Toilets?

In past blogs I have addressed the need for more "green" technology and attitudes. Of late I have run across more and more forum threads from readers that don't understand the new low flush and dual flush toilets so borrowing from Toto, the undesputed leader in this technology, here is a discussion of the differing types of water saving fixtures.

High Efficiency Toilets
If a toilet is “high efficiency,” flushing twice to clear the contents isn’t exactly efficient. TOTO’s rigorous flushing performance testing methods have proven to be more extensive than current industry standards, helping to ensure outstanding one-flush performance and true water savings.
High Efficiency Toilets (HETs) should be able to flush using at least 20% less water than is mandated by law and should not need to be flushed more than once to do their job. They should require minimal cleaning with environmentally unfriendly detergents. They should flush quietly. They should be user friendly and comfortable. And they should be available in a wide variety of design styles that fit with the existing (or future) bathroom décor. These are the guiding principles that drive our design of high-performance, High Efficiency TOTO Toilets.
TOTO offers more HET choices than any other manufacturer.

TOTO High Efficiency Flushing Technologies
TOTO engineers have devised a revolutionary way to harness the powerof water and gravity to create a more powerful 1.28 GPF flush that maximizes cleaning action. Using two nozzles (instead of rim holes), water can be used more efficiently for a better rim and bowl wash, while directing more water to the siphon, for a more powerful flush.Double Cyclone features:
Hole-free rim design means less trapped dirt and bacteria. and that means less cleaning.
The dual-nozzle water propulsion system allows more water to be directed to the siphon.
Unlike pressure assist toilets, which can be noisy and are made with more complicated moving parts, E-Max is a simple, elegant and quiet solution for effectively flushing 1.28 gallons. Utilizing the same proven engineering as our legendary one-flush performance 1.6 GPF G-Max Flushing System, the 1.28 GPF E-Max reinforces TOTO’s performance reputation, while offering an additional water savings of 20%.

E-Max features:
Wide 3" flush valve provides a quick, consistent and powerful flush.
Large 2-1/8" trapway is glazed to optimize waste passage.
Pilot operated fill valve ensures quiet operation and a clean shutoff at any water pressure.
Extra-large siphon jet works in conjunction with the large glazed trapway; the siphon jet pulls away waste with incredible force.

The TOTO Dual-Max Flushing System

is the leading choice for dual flush performance and conservation. Traditionally, dual flush toilets sacrificed either performance or conservation. Our goal was to optimize water conservation and set a high bar in flushing performance.Dual-Max features:
Allows you to select the appropriate amount of water usage from 0.9 GPF to 1.6 GFP.
TOTO Aquia® toilets with Dual-Max flushing feature a clean, skirted bowl design, offering an unmatched convergence of style and efficiency.

In summation the choice is up to you, dual flush, 1.28 gpf or 1.6 gpf but whatever the choice Toto has the toilet for your needs and National Builder Supply is one of America's leading Toto dealers offering both price guarantees and free shipping whether you are buying one or 100 toilets. Call them today with questions or ask me in the comment section below and Ill be glad to get you answers.

Is it Tweet or Chirp?

Man I’m feeling especially old today. Most of you know that I am a very young 61, which is defined by my children as the number of years since dirt was invented on earth or just a few days short of when the serpent tempted Eve. In my thoughts I always relate to the fact that I graduated from college the year that the digital hand held calculator was brought on the market and I have been trying to play catch up on understanding computers and such ever since. I first laid hands on a PC in 1988 I didn’t own my first PC until 1997 and then there was the internet. I got AOL at the same time and I am still so afraid of it that I have never even changed my provider or email address in those 12 years. I have struggled to keep up with each new operating system and although I currently have a computer that uses Windows Vista the view isn’t so great from here in my opinion and my best friend (Crash and Burn Hennecy…now you get the idea where the “crash” came from?) has been telling me that I should change to Mozilla? Wasn’t that Godzilla’s mother? What did she have to do with computers? So what has provoked all this today? My good friend, Marcus Morgan, the owner of National Builder Supply , called yesterday with the great idea that I should start “Tweeting”. I told him I was just too old to take up bird watching and besides my disabilities would make it tough to hang around in the forest listening for tweets from some bizarre long missing exotic bird. Now Marcus is not only persuasive but used to getting his way so the next thing I know he’s got a “Twitter” expert on the phone and has me set up with an account complete with followers and followees. At least I think that’s what they have me set up for but the first message I received went something like this “I would love 2 hear tips on home improvement (that use your parts) with link to the part. Make the tip juicy!!”. Now I am not so old as to not understand that one! But that’s not the kind of helpful tips I’ve been offering here on the blogsite but I guess I’m flattered? The damn thing keeps asking me what I’m doing? Hell I’m old and infirm. I’m trying to take my next breath, worried about when I am going to pee again and what’s for dinner! Why would anyone want to know about that?
My heart much less my brain can get wrapped around anymore new technology so if my blogs over the next few weeks seem, strange blame it on me trying to learn how to whistle like a bird. In the meantime of you want to ‘TWEET” at me, follow me at NBSUPPLY and I will try to chirp back atcha or whatever it is I’m supposed to do. Somebody help me or just take a gun, shoot me and mercifully put me out of my computer/internet misery!

A Quick Fix for an Old Bathroom Mirror

A couple of weeks ago I detailed the fiasco that my little remodeling project had turned into. If you missed it I had an unscrupulous contractor who did a poor job and didn’t fulfill his obligations. I joined Angie’s list and reported him and spread the word amongst my neighbors and friends to spare others the trials that I experienced in dealing with this guy and taught me a good lesson to read my own blogs on ”how to hire a contractor” all of which I feel as if I ignored completely. In the meantime my saving grace was my old friend Erik who came in and made sense of the whole mess and got me in a much better mood.
While Erik was doing his magic he did something that I think was noteworthy and is a great idea for those of you who may have an old medicine cabinet in the wall that drives you crazy and you don’t know what to do about it. As long as we had the bathroom torn up I decided to buy a new vanity to replace an old one that had only doors and no drawers. The vanity I chose came with a great oriental influenced sink and the drawers that I needed. When we opened the box we found that it had come with the bonus of a free matching dark framed beveled glass mirror(see pic above) but with a medicine cabinet over it with the most horrible mirror on it (see pics above) I could not see a use for it. It only took Erik a moment to point out that the old mirror was simply attached with a “piano” styled hinge that would easily adapt to the new mirror. In a matter of a few minutes he had removed the old mirror and attached the new one to the piano hinge and we had added a great new feature to the bathroom. Why tell you all this? You may very well have the same problem. A built in medicine cabinet with the old fashioned or maybe even damaged mirror on it and have just learned to ignore it because of the trouble and expense involved with taking the entire medicine cabinet out and replacing it with a new fancier one. Save yourself some time and effort and look at the hinge. Is it attached to the mirror with screws? If so you can make a simple replacement by just shopping for a new mirror with the correct dimensions and remove the old one from the hinge and replace it. You could easily find a great antique or high styled mirror that would change the entire look of your bathroom without having to give up the convenience of the medicine cabinet.
As seen in the pictures, my next project has to be paint, tile or new wallpaper. My apologies and admitted embarrassment for the old stuff seen in the pics. I just don’t know whether my nerves can take another project for the time being. I wonder if Erik can do tile???

What is That Smell?....Yet Again (Episode Three)

One of my first blogs remains the most read and commented on blog that I have written in my last 9 months was entitled “What’s that Smell?”
http://nationalbuildersupply.blogspot.com/2008/11/what-is-that-smell.html

I followed this one up with “What’s that Smell…Episode Two”
http://nationalbuildersupply.blogspot.com/2009/03/what-is-that-smell-episode-2.html

as I ran across more different cases and provided the answers. With these two blogs I thought I had covered all the bases and all of the fixes until this past weekend when I ran across yet another puzzling case on one of my favorite forum sites “The DIY Chatroom”.
http://www.diychatroom.com
The thread went something like this:
“Gentlemen,I'm a 29 year old first time homeowner. I recently bought a 14 year old home on 5.35 acres in southwestern Illinois. I am on a well/septic, and have had a few plumbing problems.I am somewhat handy, and know enough to be dangerous. I recently replaced my propane water heater myself, so I no longer am taking cold showers. However, my hot water seems to have a grey tint to it, and smells. I suspect my anode rod may need replaced. As far as I know, I am only on a small filter on my side of the well pump. I have no softener, and the problem is limited to the hot water. From what I have gathered, bacteria in the water heater are causing the color and sulfur dioxide smell which makes my hot water unpleasant. Does this sound like a correct assessment to you, and the anode rod replacement will fix it?”

With my answer as follows:
“It does sound like a possibility but you wouldn’t normally think about having to replace anode rods on a new HWH. But if your well is producing high iron content water the anodes do convert the iron to sulfur dioxide and produce some pretty vile smelling water. Take a sample of your water to your local county ag. agent or to the health department and get an analysis. You may have to invest in some form of water treatment to cure the problem. I am no pro in that department so hopefully another reader will chime in and help us on this one.”

Following my answer was this additional idea from another contributor with a solution that I had not heard of before but makes sense:
“You have bacteria in your well and you need to shock it. Simply pour 1 or 2 gallons of bleach down the well head and let it set for 3-4 hrs then turn on an outside hydrant and let it run untill you get the smell of bleach then let this set for 24 hrs. After 24 hrs turn on the outside hydrant and let it flow until the smell is gone. This should get rid of the smell.Color is another issue. If it is black more than likely it is the bacteria in the well. It could also be the well itself if it is an old well that is lined in steel or an old jack pump that is steel as well. Start with the bleach and work from there. On my well I have to put a gallon of bleach down the well every other month.I would also suggest that when the water enters your house it run through a sediment filter then a carbon filter and then a UV light.”

Then one last idea which should cover all the bases:
“Shocking the well will kill the bacteria there now and as soon as the chlorine is gone, new bacteria comes in with the water recovering the well and you're all but back where you started except, some bacteria were not killed' because they produced slime that now hardens and then chlorine can't penetrate it. So you've made things a bit worse but in short time your odor is back in the hot water. So turn the temp up on the heater to 140f for a few hours or overnight and kill'em that way. Then turn it down until the odor comes back. The bacteria is a group of harmless sulfate reducing bacteria. Or buy water treatment like a chlorination system or remove the rod and void the warranty or replace it with a different type.”

I have the feeling this is just another one of the many as yet undiscovered and undiscussed “smell” issues that can come up with your plumbing plus we have yet to even begin to discuss the potential smells that can be produced by the constipated husband, the teenager who will eat anything and suffer the consequences later or the polite female in the family who swears that smell could not have come from her and instead defers to one of the former possibilities.
My thanks to my fellow DIY’rs at the DIY Chatroom for the use of their words of wisdom and I hope it that this, or one of my other blogs, helps you get past the question of “WHAT IS THAT SMELL” in your home. As always questions and comments are welcomed and much desired.

More on How to Install a Bathroom in the Basement

I wrote yesterday about the ADA and have in the past blogged about the how to build an ADA compliant bathroom in your home from scratch or how to convert the bathroom you have to ADA standards.
http://nationalbuildersupply.blogspot.com/2009/04/how-to-plan-handicapped-ada-compliant.html
This subject along with my blog about adding a bathroom to your basement continue to receive a lot of “google” hits meaning there are a lot of you out there thinking about putting that bathroom in the basement that you’ve been promising your family for a while. I see this as one of two trends in the U.S. today, the first being the economy and the need to upgrade your home to get more value from it and the second being the proliferation of “mancaves” further defined as a place in the basement for ole dad and his buds to watch the games on a big screen TV and knock back a few without the interruption of kids and the wife. Both are worthwhile projects. Consistently additions of bathrooms and renovation of existing bathrooms and kitchens list very high on the return of investment scale. Converting useless empty space in a basement to a family room, guest quarters or other uses including the addition of a bathroom equals big money return on sale of the home. The problem with adding a bathroom to a basement is almost always a matter of “lift” or ejection of the sewage from a location below grade to the drain line in your home or in simple terms your basement is below the level of your septic tank or sewer line. Additionally there is usually a concrete foundation floor that doesn’t allow for the laying of the plumbing lines for the toilet. In my previous blogs I showed examples of two types of units that can facilitate the solving of this problem. One a self contained sewage ejector system that can be neatly buried in one hole which will allow you to establish a drain and ejector for the toilet, sink and shower in one simple hole in the foundation or basement floor. The other is a simple device that mounts on the floor and simply allows you to mount the toilet on this device and either step up to the toilet or build a false floor to the level of the device. There are many such devices on the market but good examples are found at W.W.Grainger at the following website http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?from=Search&newSrch=yes&operator=keywordSearch&search_type=keyword&action=Go%21&QueryString=basement+toilet&submit.x=27&submit.y=6
For further info on this type of project take a look back at my previous blog on the subject at
http://nationalbuildersupply.blogspot.com/2009/05/can-i-install-toilet-in-my-basement.html
I usually publish blogs 3 days a week on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays but because of the July 4th Holiday I’m posting today so that I can wish you all a safe holiday and maybe jog you into a great weekend project to start planning.
Thanks to all who read and follow my blogs and PLEASE FEEL FREE TO COMMENT OR TO LET ME KNOW OF FUTURE SUBJECTS YOU WOULD LIKE COVERED.