How to hire a contractor or 10 easy steps to avoid a nervous breakdown

I write this article with some real specific experience on dealing with contractors and their subs. I have, in the past 30 years, had built 3 homes and renovated probably 10. With each of these projects I learned more and more lessons and with each asked my friends and family just to take a gun and shoot me if I ever even spoke of doing either again. My last experience in having a home built ended in a major cost overrun which taught me the legal lesson of the difference between the words “will” and “should”. You see my iron clad contract which made all of the provisions I requested and guaranteed the finished price stated that the final price “SHOULD NOT EXCEED X $$”. $40,000 later I discovered it should have said, “WILL NOT EXCEED X $$”. The word “will” affirming the agreement while the word “should” infers some sense of a possibility of the price changing and changing it did ending in a final demand by the contractor for the aforementioned $40,000 before I could move into the home.
While most home contractors out there are legitimate and do great work, the list of nightmare contractors is long and represents thousands of lost dollars and a myriad of disappointments. To avoid hiring the contractor from hell I offer the following advice:
1. Make plans
Before you begin your process of locating, interviewing, investigating and hiring a contractor you should have a completed set of plans for your project including detailed drawings and specifications. Without these plans in place you are asking a tradesman to bid on a nebulous non specific job and you are asking for trouble. A conscientious contractor will want not only a complete set of blueprints but also a sense of what homeowners want out of a project and what they plan to spend. Once these plans are in place, stick to them. Making changes to plans after work begins could lead to cost overruns and delays.
2. Get recommendations
Start with your friends, family and neighbors. Check with the national associations of the trade that you wish to hire for a list of members in your area, Angie’s List, which is an on going internet site which lists real personal recommendations and warnings in your specific area, and maybe check an individual business with the Better Business Bureau. I hesitate to mention the BBB because this is an organization of paid members which in some cases may also skew their results.
In smaller areas you may also talk with a building inspector, who should know which contractors routinely meet code requirements and may be able to give you advice regarding code requirements. Visit your local building supply or hardware store, they know the local contractors and which ones have the best reputations. Although most of the big box stores do have professionals that either they recommend or that they can sell you the services of, remember they are being recommended because of an existing relationship with the store. The store is likely making a profit on your transaction and thus their opinion may be skewed. In some cases you may have recourse back to the store but make sure that is the case and be aware that this arrangement may cause your cost to be higher. I have heard many horror stories about the contractor who was hired through the retailer only to disappoint the customer and satisfaction only coming after considerable effort if at all.
3. Call your prospective Contractors
Now that you have a list of possible contractors, consider that you are an employer interviewing a prospective employee. Make calls to each of your prospects and ask them the questions that you feel are important to you which should include the following:
•Do they take on projects of your size?
•Are they willing to provide references from suppliers or banks?
•Will they give you a list of previous clients? Remember, though, they are not going to give you names of dissatisfied customers so you are going to have to do some of your own research on their work.
•How many other projects do they typically have going at the same time?
•Do they maintain their own tradesmen or do they have to depend on subcontractors? If they have to use subs you may be put in a position of having to research their reputations as well. Sub contractors can be the weakest link in the chain of getting your project done and are the easiest excuse your contractor can use for a lack of progress or delays on your job. It is important, therefore, that the contractor have a good relationship with his subs and is good with his scheduling of those subs.
These answers should give you an idea of the company's availability, reliability, how much attention they'll be able to give your project and how smoothly the work will go.
4. Invite them over to see your job
Once you have made these phone calls, pick three or four contractors to show them your proposed project, to obtain an estimate and for further discussion and questions. A contractor should be able to answer your questions satisfactorily and in a manner that puts you at ease. It’s important that you feel comfortable with the contractor you choose, that you communicate well and that you have a sense of trust. Remember this person and their crews will be in your home for hours at a time.
5. Build trust by verifying the facts
Call up former clients to find how their project went and ask if you can see the finished job. Ask if they know of other customers of this contractor so that you can find additional references that didn’t come from the contractor himself. You should ask to see a current job site and see for yourself how the contractor works. Is the job site neat and safe? Are workers courteous and careful with the homeowner's property and is this homeowner happy, so far, with his results?
6. Demand proof of proper licensing and insurance.
Make sure the contractor is licensed to do business in your state and that he has proper general liability and workers-compensation insurance. Learn the requirements in your state and verify that contractor is licensed.
7. Get bids
To compare bids, ask everyone to break down the cost of materials, labor, profit margins and other expenses. Generally materials account for 40 percent of the total cost; the rest covers overhead and the typical profit margin, which is 15 to 20 percent. Don't let price be your guide. I believe, that as hard as it is to do, you should disregard the lowest bid especially if it is significantly lower than the others. A bid like this can usually point to a desperate contractor or a major mistake in his calculations. Even though you may have the law on your side to enforce this contract you still will be burdened with the legal costs and efforts to win and you may end up with a project left unfinished or poorly completed. These situations may be more frequent as a sign of our current unhealthy economy. Beyond technical competence, comfort should play an equal or greater role in your decision. The single most important factor in choosing a contractor is how well you and he communicate. All things being equal, it's better to spend more and get someone you're with whom you are comfortable.
8. Discuss and agree upon a payment schedule
Payment schedules can also speak to a contractor's financial status and work ethic. If they want half the bid up front, they may have financial problems or be worried that you won't pay the rest after you've seen the work. For large projects, a schedule usually starts with 10 percent at contract signing, three payments of 25 percent evenly spaced over the duration of the project and a check for the final 15 percent when you feel every item on the punch list has been completed. In no circumstances should you exceed an initial payment of 30% as a down payment and even then only upon the delivery and acceptance, by you, of the all of materials.
9. Put it in writing/Obtain a contract
Draw up a contract that details every step of the project: the payment schedule as above; proof of liability insurance and worker's compensation, if a contractor does not have proper workers compensation insurance your home owners insurance or you personally may be held as liable; a start date and projected completion date; specific materials and products to be used; and a requirement that the contractor obtain lien releases (which protect you if he doesn't pay his bills) from all subcontractors and suppliers. Insisting on a clear contract isn't mistrust, it's about insuring a successful project.
10. Pay by check or if possible by credit card.
The use of a credit card gives you the leverage to charge back any disputed charges. If paying by check write it out to the contracting company rather than to an individual. Make final payments only when the work is completed to your satisfaction. A reputable contractor will not threaten you or pressure you to sign documents if the job is not finished properly.

Will these steps prevent problems? Yes. Is there still a chance that something will fall between the cracks and you will become the victim of a bad contractor? Yes. So practice vigilance. Be aware of what’s going on with your job and insist that problems be corrected as they happen. Don’t fall into a false sense of security and think that it will all be OK. Remember the first principle of “Murphy’s Law”….If any thing can go wrong, it will!!!

DANZE…… STYLE AND SUBSTANCE AT AN AFFORDABLE PRICE

DANZE is the fastest-growing plumbing company in America and when teamed with National Builder Supply we are able to bring the latest styles to market – all backed by the highest quality and world-class customer service at a price to fit your budget.

DANZE’s products are beautifully made, inside and out, representing the pinnacle of both style and design while offering something for every taste and every home. It is art that is designed to be used while offering years of beautiful lustrous finishes, utilizing solid brass waterways and ceramic disc valves which provide a drip-free guarantee. DANZE brings unique design solutions to homeowners who are driven by quality and attention to detail in their home furnishings. All of this and the best pricing on the American market today.




As a major dealer of DANZE quality products, for over 5 years, National Builder Supply maintains a constant inventory of over 1000 items valued at over $350,000. Our inventory contains 21 designs suites and over 370 different items such as:



Air Gaps
Hand Showers
Body Sprays
Robe Hooks
Faucet Extension Kits
Shower Arms
Faucet Valves
Shower Heads
Bar Faucets
Supply Elbows
Bathroom Sink Faucets
Tank Levers
Bidet Faucets
Toilet Paper Holders
Kitchen Sink Faucets
Towel Bars
Laundry Faucets
Towel Rings
Pantry Faucets
Tub Spouts
Pot Filler Faucets
Waste/Overflow Drains
Tub and Shower Faucets
And much, much more





















This commitment to DANZE products guarantees you immediate availability and making it possible for us to ship your choices quickly, usually the same day, and as always offering free shipment on orders over $100.

Visit the National Builder Supply Website to review all of the beautiful DANZE products and see for yourself the how the style and substance can had beauty to your home.

FINALLY!! A FAUCET JUST FOR MAKING GRITS...ok so you can use it for pasta or veggies or stock, whatever that is

As I have mentioned in many of my blogs and “ezine” articles, in the past few weeks, more and more of the homes being built and remodeled, today, are including things commonly found in commercial kitchens. First it was the large “Sub Zero” type refrigerator, then the commercial styled multiple (up to 6) burner gas ranges, double ovens and heavy duty and sometimes multiple dishwashers. At this point I should say that many of these features are wonderful even for the small home especially of you enjoy cooking and entertaining. I don’t fall into that category, the best thing I make for dinner is reservations.
I lived, for over 8 years during the 1980’s, in Los Angeles. While there one of the homes I owned was a large (10,000 sq. ft., that’s large to me) house in the Hollywood Hills that was built in 1929. Before I bought it, a complete remodel of many of the features of the house had been undertaken. Not only did it have a Sub Zero refrigerator it had 2 that were built side by side. I’m a poor boy from the south. After coming up with the money to buy the house I didn’t know how we would ever have enough groceries to fill both of those fridges. The kitchen also included Corian countertops, (the state of the art in solid surface materials at that time), double dishwashers, multiple sinks all over the kitchen, 3 wall ovens, and 2 countertop gas 4 burner cook tops for a total of 8 burners. These things were rare and only found in the larger homes. Although at the time I bought the house I could have never envisioned needing all of that, during the time we lived there we held a wedding for close friends with over 300 guests (the bride also wanted live swans swimming in my pool...that’s where I drew the line) and at least one July 4th party at which we welcomed over 200 of my “closest friends”(that’s California speak for any and everyone you know or have ever met). It was then that I realized why people who do a lot of entertaining want and need the big kitchen. Even if your home is only the designated holiday destination for your families, the convenience of having the extra room and additional appliance capability can be worthwhile. By today’s standards that big old house of mine would not even phase most people and in fact would have probably been completely torn out and remodeled in the last 5 years to bring it up to date.
The modern day version of this house would have replaced the Corian with granite or something even more exotic, large commercial ranges, elaborate faucets and fixtures and now the pot filler faucet can be added to the list of things that are starting to become mainstream in kitchens. A pot filler faucet is a great idea for your kitchen. Large pots fill quickly. The pot filler faucet swings out of the way when not in use. These articulated arm faucets save your back and eliminate probably 50 percent of the work when it comes to carrying water from the sink to your stove. With a pot filler faucet over your stove, you never have to carry a pot full of water again saving wear and tear on you. Water is actually heavy. One gallon weighs a little over eight pounds. This means you might need 2 or 3 gallons or maybe 20 lbs of water to boil a large pot of pasta. During holidays, the last thing you want is to be worn out from hauling water from the sink to the stove leaving you plenty of time to work out in your private gym or to go out and run that habitual holiday marathon race, or maybe just give you more time to spend with your guests and families. As a confirmed bachelor for some 30 years I depend on Fran Byrd from the National Builder Supply home office for a woman’s opinion. She rarely gets credit for her help and many quotes, so today I’m going to pass on a woman’s opinion not just mine, of the pot filler faucet... “As far as pot fillers go, they are wonderful. Especially for those big stock pots. You know how heavy those things can be empty but you fill it with water and you need to call for help just to get it over to the stove. I am sure you know that the pot filler is mounted above or in the deck of the counter beside the stove and hooks to the cold water (since we all know cold water boils faster) then you can fill that big ole pot right there on the stove”. My response…what’s a stock pot???.
Most plumbers would have no problems installing a pot filler faucet, if he does its time to get a different plumber. Most pot fillers require only one cold water supply line. This line can usually be installed in 30 minutes or less in most homes under construction. It may be more difficult when remodeling an existing kitchen depending on accessibility to existing water lines and the wall behind your stove may necessitate some cutting and patching. Many times the water lines can be run through the back of the existing cabinets (like ice maker lines are retrofitted). The location of the pipe that feeds the pot filler faucet is very critical. If this pipe is not in the correct location, the faucet may be too low or it might not fold back completely against the wall. You will need dimensions, such as the height of the cook top burners above the finished height of the countertop and the height of your tallest pot. When added together, these dimensions tell you the minimum height above the countertop the tip of the faucet must be then add another inch to be safe.
Now its time to choose the faucet you want. Style, finish, price, etc are all things to consider. The faucet pictured above is the Danze #D205358 this item is part of the (Parma) Series priced starting at $172.60 at National Builder Supply. You should also make sure the faucet you choose has two separate on and off valves to prevent any damage that might be caused by a drippy faucet and remind your plumber that you want a separate shut off valve for the water line to the pot filler. Once you’ve made your choice make sure the dealer or manufacturer provide all of the technical info you need and provide instructions for installation. Then you’re ready for the installation and all set to cook your first pot of pasta, or grits if you are at my house. Ill have mine with cheese, butter and maybe some diced ham, thank you. A recipe for good southern grits can be yours for the asking.

LOOKS LIKE WE WONT BE NEEDING THAT SEARS BIG CATALOG ANYMORE

Those of you who follow my writings and blogs know that I wrote a brief blog last month on the most expensive toilet on the market place today. Well expensive if you don’t include the diamond encrusted gold plated Los Angeles nouveau riche models. Well I’m just a poor boy from the south and my family was more “oldeau riche”, which means we had both the Sears AND the Montgomery Wards catalogs in our outhouse. No corn cobs for my family…we had money! I never knew what a bidet was until I went to Europe the first time after graduating from high school and Im sure that at that time I wasn’t the first to try to sit on the darn thing and fall in. Even till to today I’m not sure how they really work. Now the big high end homes in America today not only have granite countertops, stainless steel appliances AND Grohe faucets, they have bidets If they are REALLY expensive they have the TOTO Neorest Toilet that combines the best of self warming, self opening and closing seats but the comforts of a bidet (no toilet paper needed) and messages your delicate parts and probably can be programmed to play the top 40 songs this week in Tokyo. They are also remote controlled so you can preprogram the temperature of the washing water, and the seat and probably the 60” plasma screen TV hanging in front of the toilet in the bathroom which is larger in square footage than my first house.
Now for those of us that just can’t afford either physically, emotionally, financially or psychologically a $5200 toilet, TOTO is manufacturing the mini version, No its not a tiny toilet its just a replacement seat that does all the things that the big boy does for maybe 10 to 20% of the cost. Its called the WASHLET. Just to let you know, the WASHLET allows you to have a bidet and a toilet all in one. They are on all the public toilets in Japan and are simply amazing, if I may say so myself. So that means they should just fit my house perfectly! Back in the day you would need another plumbing line to install a bidet, you would need to get off the toilet and move yourself over to the bidet, adjust the water temp and then let it wash you, you would then need to towel yourself dry (so that’s how those things work). The WASHLET has taken this to another level. It attaches to your toilet just like a seat and installation is a breeze. This thing has a heated seat, heated water with temp control so you can adjust it to your own likings, it has a wand that extends from the back of it and washes you. It has several different spray patterns and massage features making it ideal for anyone. On the 200 and 300 there is also a heated air dryer that will dry you off so no towel or paper is ever involved, that adds to the "green" factor. No that doesn’t mean it leaves green stuff growing on your bottom, it means you save trees by not using toilet paper. They are great for the elderly (that’s me), the handicapped (that’s me too) and for just the plain self indulgent. It allows the elderly and handicapped to be more independent and the self indulgent to indulge more?? I think it would be a great idea as a gift for an elderly parent, relative or friend that may be infirm (you can put me on your list).

Here are some of the features and benefits of the 2 most popular models along with NBS pricing:

E200 $563.16

Newly Designed, a Revolution in Hygiene
Adjustable Heated Water Tank
Adjustable Rear and Front Washers
Adjustable Warm Air Dryer
Convenient Remote Control Oscillating Comfort Wash
Curved Rear case fits more French Curve Toilets (that’s the fancy modern style with the wrap around tank)
Adjustable, Heated Soft Close Seat
Trim sleek advanced technology. Upon activation, the automatic wand extends to provide a gentle stream of warm aerated water. The result? It offers an unparalleled level of comfort and clean. For maximum soothing, it includes a massage feature, a warm air dryer and a temperature controlled heated seat with energy saver functionality
Available in three attractive colors: colonial white, cotton white, and Sedona beige and in elongated and round styles
Quite simply, the Washlet E200 elevates the bathroom experience to greater heights of comfort.
S300 $727.44 (round bowl)
Engineered Luxury
New cleaner look featuring hidden cord design
New reinforced base plate for enhanced durability
Gentle aerated warm water washing
Massage feature with cycling motion
Warm air drying with variable 3 temp setting
Automatic air deodorizer (We all know the value of that)
Heated seat with temp control
Soft close antibacterial seat
Convenient wireless remote with large LCD panel
Docking Station for easy cleaning and Installation
The S300 is for those seeking the ultimate in pampering.
A convenient remote control allows you to adjust the seat and water temp and pressure. With a soothing cycling action the massage feature alternates between front and rear washing for maximum comfort and cleansing.
The WASHLET allows you to immerse yourself in total relaxation and bathroom pleasure
Visit the National Builder Supply website http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/?source=RW886 today for further info, up to date pricing and specials or write me here at the blogsite and I’ll gladly answer technical specifications and provide you with installation instructions.

DEFINITIONS FOR THE PLUMBING CHALLANGED (THAT’S ME)

As those of you who read my writings know already, I follow and comment on some 30 +/- DIY forums daily. Reading these questions brings to mind the need for some simple definitions of terms used by the pros as well as us “not-so-pros”.
Here is my list, write to me to add your favorite definition or to ask for something I’ve missed.
Closet Flange – This is the connection device that attaches to the drain or waste line at the Rough In that the toilet bolts down to. The Wax Ring fits on this flange before you screw the toilet down
Drain Pipes – DUH! these are the collection pipes that run from your fixtures (toilets, sinks, tubs, etc) to the soil pipe or soil stack.
Elbows – these are the premade pipe turns used to make bends in your plumbing piping. Commonly called ELS they can be plastic, copper, or metal depending on the type of piping construction you have in your home.
Main Shut off – this is the primary shut off valve for water coming into your house. Some local codes call for there to be an individual shut off valve for your home, usually located in your basement or a utility area. Other codes refer to the main shut off as the valve from the water utility at your meter at the street. Obviously of you have your own private water source, such as a well, you may have a main shut off at the well head or pump, at the pressure tank and/or yet another separate one inside the house. These are not to be confused with the individual Shut Off Valves that you should have at the water input on each fixture.
Plunger – The “Plumbers Friend”, should be familiar to all of us. It is usually a rubber or flexible plastic suction cup on the end of a wooden rod. This device is used to create suction to remove simple clogs in drains either in your sink, tub or toilet. There are many fancy designs on the market today but the old standby seems to still work best in my humble opinion.
Here’s a great tip I read the other day…to make a better suction especially on oddly shaped holes, put a thick coat of petroleum jelly (that’s Vaseline to us southerners no matter what brand it is).
Riser- a vertical supply or drain line
Rough In – this is the distance from the wall to the drain line where the toilet attaches. If your rough in is not correct then your toilet will either not fit because it will be too close to wall when assembled or the tank will sit too far away from the wall when installed. In this case the crocheted toilet paper cover your grandmother made you as a house warming gift will continually fall off the back of the tank and your guest wont be able to find that spare roll when they need it.
Shutoff Valve – Sometimes called the Stop Valve. Allows you to shut the water supply off to an individual fixture without shutting off the entire house supply. See my article “Another plumbing nightmare and how to avoid it…”.
Trap – or “P” trap (Also discussed in a previous article), is the the “U” shaped pipe under your sink, tub or other drain lines, other than toilets which are “S” and built into the toilet. This simple device traps water in the lowest point of the drain line and prevents sewer gas, methane, from escaping back into your house. A trap allowed to dry out from a lack of use in a seldom used area of the house can be a primary cause for unpleasant smells in the house. See my article WHAT IS THAT SMELL?? This is one of the most frequent complaints I read about in the discussion rooms.
Vent – or vent stack is a pipe or pipes that allow the sewer gas stopped by the Trap escape out into the house and not build up. A build up of these gases can be dangerous both from a breathing stand point or can be explosive. The vent also provides air to your drain system which allows water to flow more freely out of your house and into the septic or sewer system. Vents must extend, by code, a certain distance above the roof line of your house and must be of a certain diameter according to the number of fixtures it is venting. An improperly sized vent or placed in the wrong distance from the fixtures it is venting can be the cause of “burping” drains or toilets, or improperly draining fixtures.
Of course there are dozens of other plumbing definitions, but most, you would rarely read or use as an amateur plumber. I fully believe that if the job requires the actual replacement, or repiping of any type in your home that you call a professional licensed plumber. We take plumbing for granted but it really is a complicated system which must be installed according to proper code, sized, sloped and fitted properly to insure that you will have the least amount of problems.

A SHOT IN THE DARK? Things to consider when making lighting decisions

Any person who has remodeled their home or has embarked on building a new home from scratch knows about the varied of choices one needs to make before the project is complete. The last home I built, my 15 year old son and I lived the blueprints for 11 months. We sat up nights imagining the flow of each room, where the light switches would go, where to hang the light fixtures, what color to paint the walls, choosing the floor coverings. Every aspect affected the project in some way. So we thought it all through carefully. We walked the foundations (my son realized its was 4 feet off the day the footings were dug), measured the framing, generally ran the contractor crazy but we were certain we had all the answers until the week before the final punch list walk through the contractor asked…..what are you going to do about door knobs? Door knobs? You mean the doors didn’t come with knobs? No and the closets don’t come with ceiling lights, shelves and brackets either!
Additionally as the house took shape we realized that all of the thought we had put into light fixtures went by the wayside when the rooms took shape. Corners were dark, walls needed to be lit for anything we wanted to hang and be able to actually see, the kitchen fixture cast a shadow on the countertops which would have made cooking in the dark a newly acquired art. These faults are more prevalent in new construction but are equally important in a renovation because you can now correct all the lighting problems inherent in your existing house, with some careful thought, planning and some assistance from people that know lighting. Choosing a light fixture and planning for the right type of lighting may appear to be a challenge, but one of your greatest sources of information can be your dealer. Unlike the big box stores, who staff their lighting department with whoever isn’t working in the plumbing department today, lighting specialty and many internet dealers can be invaluable in providing guidance for helping you make those decisions easier. They can also be your best source for hanging heights, style, color, power needs, wattage etc. Many can offer help in positioning of each fixture by preparing a lighting plan. Even with this help you still need to live the plan, imagine how each fixture will affect your living space. Is one recessed light to little or six too many? Lighting can be an expensive and VERY PERMANENT part of your plan. So plan carefully and seek guidance.

The fixtures will generally fall under one or more of these four categories:
1.decorative (purely ornamental)
2. task (needed to make work surfaces clear and illuminate rooms)
3. protective and/or safety lighting (outdoor fixtures such as floods, spots, porch)
4. accent (to wash a wall or shine down on a specific non-traffic area)
5. ambient (background)
6. general lighting (the misc. category covering everything else and this is the one where “murphy’s law” will prevail because you won’t realize you needed it until after its too late)
Fixtures also come in different types:
chandeliers
pendants
spotlights
track lights
wall or ceiling-mounted (especially in bathrooms)
fluorescents
cabinet or undercabinet lighting fixtures.
Most of these need no further description here but do need to be thought of individually so you won’t forget that you need them. What each does require is proper selection, placement, scale, size, wiring/switching and most importantly must fit your style sensibility. Additionally, these days, more and more of us are becoming more concerned with the environment and the costs of operating a home. So ask about which lighting fixtures are most economical, consider the fixture’s illumination quality, as an example dark tinted bowls or shades cut down considerably on the quantity of light they emit. What type and size bulb does it take? Specialty bulbs can be VERY expensive to replace. Can it utilize low voltage or compact fluorescents? Lastly and probably the most important to you is to consider the style that is most likely to weather the test of time as opposed to that “satellite shaped” flying dining room chandelier that you thought “you just had to have” (my son chose that one).
In summation, everyone has their own preferences when it comes to the type of lighting and the decorative style of light fixtures that best reflects their own sense of taste. The most important thing to remember is to choose effective lighting for what you want to achieve, and choose fixtures that compliment your home and can do the most to promote the environment. When in doubt seek competent professional help.
As previously mentioned here on our blogsite, National Builder Supply has just become a Progressive Lighting dealer, offering choices from over 1700 individual fixtures offered with our “lowest price” guarantee that has made us your first and last stop for plumbing fixtures.

WHY SHOULD I CARE WHAT KIND OF FAUCET I BUY? I HAVE GRANITE COUNTERTOPS, ISNT THAT ENOUGH?

Kitchens and bathrooms have become the sole largest selling point in houses today. It is not uncommon for the simplest tract home to have a $60,000 kitchen remodel and the surprising thing for us old timers is that this investment returns dollar for dollar(if not multiples above) in appraised value of the home as well as esthetic influence to the new buyer. In this remodel the current trend is to stainless steel appliances, granite or at least solid surface counter tops and the ultimate in style, design and finish in fixtures.
There a literally hundreds of choices when it comes to kitchen and bathroom faucets. These choices can range in cost from below $100 to into the $1000’s with the emphasis invariably being on style or design as opposed to function. In past days if you turned the faucet and you got water then you considered it was better than going out to the well and pumping. If the water got hot it was a miracle. Yes folks I’m just about old enough to remember those days.Today is it the latest style? Polished nickle, stainless steel or oil rubbed bronze? Does the soap dispenser match? Soap dispenser? How does a faucet match the bar of Ivory soap laying on the drainer?
Then there was the leaking. If you had enough strength to turn the knobs hard enough then you got no leaks. Good news, today, is that all, except the cheapest faucets, can last a lifetime and rarely leak and many come with lifetime replacement guarantees either for parts or sometime even for full replacement of the faucet. I read in a discussion forum, 2 weeks ago, that a customer had called Moen to hopefully get some replacement parts for a faucet that was 17 years old. The customer service person regretted to inform him that the parts for that faucet had long since become unavailable so they were just going to send him a brand new faucet. Take a little time and find a faucet that you like since it's going to be with you for a long time. So we CAN take less time worrying about leaks and more about quality finish, style etc.
Even with this newly found carefree attitude you still need to understand what to look for to get the best product and to understand the function of a faucet so that if and when something does go wrong you can understand and not panic and head for the closest big orange box. A faucet consists of three parts, a valve that controls and directs the flow of water, a handle(s) or knob(s) and a spout. You can choose a faucet that gives you hot and cold water separately or in the single faucet models easily mix the two to give you the optimum temperature. These faucets contain a mixing valve that blends the hot and cold water before it ever reaches your hands.
There are four kinds of valves: compression, cartridge, ball, and ceramic disc. The last three are referred to as "washerless" valves. If you are buying a modern kitchen or bathroom fixture, you'll be buying a faucet with one of these three valves. How come? Because most manufacturers are building washer less valves that are reliable and don't drip. If you are into the look or feel that you need older style/designed kitchen and bathroom faucets, you will find it more difficult because they use compression valves that latter leak over time and have to be replaced. Thes e valves are the oldest technology and the least expensive. Turning the handle raises and lowers a stem. At the base of the stem is a rubber or plastic washer. It usually wears out over time and the faucet will leak. Special tools are needed to effect repairs on these types of faucets an along with the other inherent problems are more the reason to shop for better quality.
Cartridge valves, invented by Moen Faucets, enabled the invention of that single lever faucet I mentioned earlier.The cartridge controls the mixing of water temperatures. Cartridge valves last a long time, but will have to be replaced. How long they last depends on what kinds of materials are used in the cartridge. They may be plastic, plaster and metal, or ceramic which will last a long time.
The ball valve is an innovation of Delta Faucet. It is also used in Peerless and Brizo faucets and works like a cartridge. Current ball valves are stainless steel and nearly indestructible.
Ceramic valves are a European innovation. It's actually two slotted ceramic disks that rest against each other. One rotates to control temperature and raises and lowers to control volume of water. This valve eliminates rubber entirely. The water-tight seal is provided by the disks that are polished to near perfect flatness. Look for these on Price Pfister faucets as well as most European brands such as Grohe, both of which are sold by National Builder Supply. Faucets with ceramic discs are reliable and easy to use. Faucets that use ceramic disc valves are used in mid-range and high-end styles-faucets. If repair is ever needed, the entire ceramic-disc cartridge is replaced. A faucet with a washer less ceramic disk valve cartridge will be drip free. In fact, look for the words 'washer less" on the faucet packaging. How do I decide which to buy? Here are the basic things to consider in a kitchen faucet.
1.Choose your budget. Remember there are wide variables to consider when it comes to cost.. Even if you go for a more expensive European faucet, such as Grohe, my personal favorite (I drive a Mercedes why wouldn’t I want the equivolent in my kitchen?) you'll find many deeply discounted on the through the NBS website. No matter how much you decide to spend, look for the following things in a faucet

A). Ceramic or Metal Cartridge
Look for a ceramic cartridge, ball or disk valve faucet if it is in your budget. If not, look for stainless steel and brass since they also last a long time.
If in doubt about a faucet, go to the manufacturer's web site and find the replacement parts list for your faucet. It will usually tell you the actual materials used in the valve. If not, use the toll-free number and call the manufacturer's customer service department. If you do buy a faucet with a plastic cartridge, go ahead and get the replacement cartridge now — you'll need it eventually.
B). How easily does the faucet operate?
I have found that in my older age some faucets just arent as easy for me to push or pull. The same can apply if you have small children at home.
C).Ease of cleaning
Nooks and crannies are great on English muffins but can make them difficult to clean
D). Say no to Plastic
Look for brass metal construction and avoid plastic on handle. Good faucets feel heavy and very solid. A Grohe sprayer, as an example feels heavy enough to be used as a weapon...LOL
E). Pay careful attention to the finish
Better quality faucets will have a more even finish and in many cases more layers of plating which adds years to the look of your kitchen or bathroom.
D). Guarantee?
What type of promises of warranty or guarantee comes with the fixture, many today do offer some form of “lifetime” guarantee at least for replacement parts.

Still confused? Need help making a decision or need more info? Call the friendly customer service staff at National Builder Supply @ 1-866-746-7469
I try to remind folks that you will never feel pressured to buy from their customer service department because they are not on commission, instead they are paid bonuses based on your satisfaction. If they ask you to participate in a survey on your satisfaction please give them a break and answer the questions or give the company the opportunity to know if you did not get the info you needed or were not satisfied.